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Found 44 results

  1. Does anybody have to reset the Timbo Apps on a Bi-Weekly basis? It has been happening now for 3 months. I disconnect battery for about 2 hours, then i reset the APPS and truck runs fine, then two weeks later i am having the same issue. Any feedback would be appreciated
  2. I need some help with my 2001 Cummins. I have recently had some dead pedal issues with my truck and took my truck in to a diesel specialist and had him test my injector pump. My injector pump is fine according to him but he found that my waste gate was stuck on my stock turbo. While trying to free the gate, he noticed my turbo was cracked so I purchased a new after market turbo.Last year I replaced the stock exhaust to a 4" exhaust, added a new lift pump (Raptor) and all of my guages.So, while pulling my 5th wheel last weekend, I noticed some funny shifting patterns and sort of dead pedal syndrome. My friend told me his father in law had issues with his Superchip, I also have a Superchip so I disconnected it and no shifting issues anymore.I still have no power though while pulling my camper. Contantly downshifting even on the smallest hills. My new turbo came with a plug to try and trick the map sensor so I installed that and I still have the 0234 code saying turbo boost limit exceeded. Is this why my truck has no power??Anyone have any ideas of what to check or look at?Thanks
  3. I did some tinkering on my truck this afternoon and now it won't start. Got these codes 0123, 1765, 1694. Can someone tell me what they mean or is there a chart somewhere on here that I can look on? The only thing I did that I think could have affected it starting was move the power and ground wires that I had on the battery connections over to the terminals in the PDC. These were power/ground for the Airdog and ground wires for the Suncoast APPS ground; which I wish I'd never done.
  4. Ok Gang... I just had a wonderful phone conversation with Rburks this morning and his chasing his problems with his idle well he happen to mention the fact he did the APPS voltage adjustment and I like "OMG not again!" There is a article on the Internet that is wrote up wrong and need to be corrected and stopped. Problem #1 - Voltage on label Everyone is trying to hit this voltage dead on... DON'T! This is the voltage that the APPS sensor goes from ON idle start to OFF idle state. You voltage MUST be BELOW this number. Like on mine the voltage is .519. Don't set the voltage at this set it below this mark say .480 to .490 because as you add in voltage gain or loss during normal operation of the truck it might cross the mark and go off idle and you end up with idle set at 950 to 1000. Then find out your exhaust brake, high idle and a few other things don't work! STOP! Don't set the voltage to the voltage on the label this is WRONG! Like the timbo APPS you adjust to to the point you cross the dead zone and back off below this point 1/2 turn. Reason why is to keep the APPS from accidentally going to OFF idle state. As long as the voltage in the APPS sensor is below this state the the ON idle signal is given to the ECM and the APPS signal is basically ignored and idle programing is used. Like for my example here the voltage on the tag is .553... Now if the alternator or voltage of the system change a little bit you going to have issues of the voltage crossing back and forth over this boundary. Please set your voltage BELOW what on the tag by about 0.020 volts to insure the voltage is low enough to put the APPS sensor in ON Idle state. Problem #2 - Where to measure the voltage? I do know why they started measure the voltage at the PCM in concerns of the TQ Conv Lock up problem but this is wrong too. Now if you go over to my wiring diagrams here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm And now look at Page 1 and look at the PCM on the right at pin #23 you see its labeled ACC PEDAL POS. You think this is tied to the APPS?! Nope... Now switch back to page 3 now at look at the ECM on the right you find the wire at pin #28 on the ECM label ACC PEDAL POS SENS... But now look at all 3 pages this this Orange/Blue wire doesn't connect to the APPS sensor at all but it does pass the information to the PCM after it passes through the ECM (if there is any processing). So now look at Pin #25 on the ECM and you'll see it has a direct connection with the APPS. So if I was going to adjust the stock APPS sensor for voltage I would measure right at the APPS sensor or at the ECM pin #25 which happen to be Light Blue/back wire pin #3 on the APPS. STOP! Don't measure your APPS voltage at the PCM this is WRONG! Measure the APPS voltage at the APPS like Timbo does to if your going for better measure it at the ECM. By the time you measure the voltage at the PCM there might be a minor voltage loss so the voltage at the ECM will be high so hence most people complain about high idle, and other issues! Problem #3 - How to adjust the APPS sensor? There is no need to yank the sensor apart and mess with the 2 torx screw on the back you can obtain all the adjustment you want in the set screw on the bellcrank. But once again don't adjust for the voltage marked on the label... Make sure to flick the throttle bellcrank to WOT ans let it snap back to idle a few times and check you voltage again if the voltage is changing constantly the APPS sensor is wore out and no amount of adjusting is going to fix this problem. STOP! Don't bother messing with the 2 torx screw just adjust the set screw on the bellcrank.
  5. Hello all. I have a dumb question for everyone. I added 2 stroke to my fuel with powerservice also. On way home i started getting 0121 code. Drove truck a couple of days later and got dead petal 5 times on way home. Tried to shut off engine twice and just kept on running. I havent had any apps codes since i got edge installed and smaller injectors. My question is will both those additives togther affect vp44 and cause 0121 code? It just seems weird it started as soon as i added them. I have a scheid hot rod vp44 and i think they have tighter tolerences. Any info would help. Im hoping i dont have to shell 400.00 for apps sensor! thanks
  6. 02 2500 5.9 driving through the road block all legal like, went to accelerate and truck started bucking horribaly. ck eng light came on so limped home, scanned ecm p0122/ installed new apps assembly from autozone, no change, found ecm reading apps but would fall off intermitantly then return. so read tcu and found apps signal smooth with no glitch. so i replace ecm no improvment, checked wiring and added ground wire on apps sensor no problems found, hooked all up set voltage on apps sensor now i have no apps reading on ecm and eng. revs wide open when brought off idle, tcu still showing good apps reading. i ordered timbo apps today, and will try but if i read schematic right, apps signal goes into ecm and out to tcu and if tcu still reads right why would ecm keep throwing code. anyone want to try this one
  7. I installed the timbo sensor a little over a month ago and it seemed to have worked fine for about a month then the bucking and dead pedal started again this time not as bad but still could tell it was the same problem. So I cleaned all battery cables then reset it and it worked for about another week and now is doing it again. Could the sensor I got be bad? What am I doing wrong?
  8. Over the past few days i've found that there is a dead spot in my accelerator pedal where either right off idle or at cruise at about 1/4 pedal the motor will drop in output, and if in OD the converter will pop in and out of lockup as if I were making wild swings with the accelerator pedal. I haven't checked for codes yet, but I haven't seen a check engine light either. Otherwise the truck runs great. New batteries recently, and I really should check contacts and grounds, but its a weird issue regardless. Any bright ideas?
  9. Fellas, I know this most likely has been talked about and maybe way way back I even started a conversation on it, but my surging is back and i'm looking for thoughts. All summer my truck seemed to work fine with no surging, now that the weather is getting colder , i'm starting to feel it alot. Today it's about 4-5 degrees out and when driving along trying to hold a consistant speed I feel it surging up and down. If I use cruise control it maintains speed with no surging. I'm running 16-19 psi for fuel pressure always , no codes showing in the odometer. I remember last time I had issues I did a reset on the apps, even adjusted the voltage on it, took the IAT sensor out and cleaned it .I think I remember somewhere reading if it doesn't surge with cruise it's not likely the Apps Whatever I did back then it seemed to eventually go away, maybe the weather was warming up, can't remember. Anyway, I was thinking today, i wonder if possibly the IAT sensor is getting weak or bad and now that the colder weather is here it,s not registering accurate and fueling wrong
  10. driving home from work about a month ago pedal goes dead replace apps sensor. drive to work does fine leave work just fine till a mile from home dead pedal again. reset apps good to the end of the driveway. back to the garage now with codes 1693 1286 0237 0236 0122 1475 0577. checked for broken wires and bad grounds replaced map sensor. started it up no bus and still no pedal. im lost
  11. Just bought my truck in May, 2002 3500 quad cab, it's the first diesel I've owned, so I'm on a definite learning curve here. Truck runs great, starts right up every time, pulls the 27.5 ft 5th wheel no problem. But here lately in the afternoon when I get off work and crank her up to go home, she'll idle out of the parking lot and when I get to the street and hit the throttle...... nothing happens and she just slowly creeps into the roadway. This will last for a couple of minutes and then all the sudden she'll take off and run great all the way home. I read some earlier posts on how to read the codes and so I read them this evening, here is what I got: P0500, P0460, P1693, Pdone, P0216, P1693, Pdone. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,JBK
  12. I went camping this weekend and most of the 5 hour drive was fine. About halfway there at about 65 mph it felt like I let my foot of the pedal. It didn't die but I had to push in the clutch and rev it a few times before it came back. It happened several more times on the trip. On the way home I set my programmer back to stock and it didn't seem to do it as much (coincidence ?). Could it be the TPS or whatever its called on a dodge? Any input would be great.
  13. I have a 98.5 24 valve cummins, somtimes when I start up I can barely touch the accelerator pedal and its acts like I held the thing wide open. Then I can shut it off and start back up and its back to normal. It doesnt happen at a particular time it is as random as anything. It is really driving me crazy.
  14. How To Reset / Calibrate Your APPS Sensor WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) disconnected, Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) replaced the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. 1. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. 2. Turn key to ON position. (Do not Start) 3. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time)>to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set. 4. Turn the key OFF. NOTE: Disconnecting the batteries will not erase or reset error codes. All it does is erase the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) calibration in the ECM. As the video below will demostrate.
  15. I just replaced my intake manifold gasket, checked/adjusted the valves, and swapped in some injectors (on the truck in my sig....). The truck starts, runs, and drives, but I have a check engine light with the P0222 code (APPS low input voltage). When scanned, it actually shows two P0222 codes. I erase the codes, but they immediately come back. Any ideas on where to start looking?
  16. just bought my truck about 2 weeks ago and today when i started it ,i got out on the road and it would not run over 1200 rpm i had to pull over and turn the truck off and then start it back up then it went on no problem the rest of the day. The codes i pulled on truck was PO122 and P1693 on the PCU and P0216 and P1693 on the ECU. Could somebody help on what is the problem. Thanks
  17. Good Morning Everybody,About 4 days ago i was driving and got a check engine light, did the 3 key on procedure and found code P1693 then the check engine light was gone, went to mechanic hooked obdII scanner and found no codes. Driving back home when i got to a stop sign i exprerienced "dead pedal" and got check engine light again, and drove home at idle speed and sometimes after a few blocks it came back to normal. I hooked obd II scanner and got code "P0223" THROTTLE PEDAL POSITION SENSOR/SWITCH B CIRCUIT HIGH. I went ahead and ordered TIMBO apps sensor, received yesterday and did the voltage adjustment, started the truck and drove it for about 15 miles and was working fine and accelerating perfect and no slack. When i got home and was parking at the driveway the check engine light came back on and again i had dead pedal. Did another scan and got the same code, started the truck and it accelerates again, could it be something else besides the sensor?I did the test for DTC P0223 i found in this website and the results are as follow:Step 1. Voltage at terminal 6 brown/orange wire on apps connector is at 4.72 volts.Step 4. Voltage at terminal 2 light green/dark blue wire on apps connector is at 4.72 volts.Step 7. Resistance at terminal 4 black/yellow wire on apps connector is at 00.6 ohms. It says that if less than 5 ohms to replace apps sensor. Could it be that TIMBO sensor is bad?
  18. Ok, So I bought a 2000 dodge 2500 4x4 auto, quadcab. When I bought it is seemed to run and shift fine. I got a pretty good deal on it and was a little worried something might be wrong. Well of course I didn't know about key trick to check for codes until I started working on it at home. When I bought it there was only 1 battery, so I bought two new batteries and installed. I also bought a raptor 100 and installed along w/ fuel filter. I did both of these at the same time. Since then I am getting 3 codes. p1693, p0216, and P0123. I know the first two point to mechanical ip failure, but it still cranks and runs good. The main problem I have now is the p0123 code and my truck will not shift into overdrive or 4th. I have installed a timbo apps. that was no help. Also had tranny fluid and filter changed. All the problems seem to have started after new fuel pump and batteries installed, but that just doesn't make sense. Gonna follow mikes 14 step procedure for checking grounds and wires. pretty aggravated at the moment.
  19. Why are there two apps codes for low voltage? 0121 and 0122
  20. Does anybody have any instructions on building and installing a suppressor to stop the 4th gear hunting?Thanks Chris
  21. I have a 2002 CTD automatic that can't seem to decide what gear that it wants to be in or if it wants the convertor locked or unlocked between 35-40 MPH... Maybe the apps is bad? I remember when the auto manufacturers made stuff that was pretty good. They made cars that didn't blow head gaskets, didn't wear out wheel bearings, etc. GM had Turbo 400 transmissions, Turbo 350's weren't too bad either. Ford had c4 and c6 transmissions that performed quite well and the famous 9" rear end that is still the standard of many racing series to this day. Chrysler had the 727 and 904 transmissions and also the Hemi 4 speeds that were very good. Also the 8 3/4 rear ends as well as the Dana 60 used in many vehicles was durable. The 833 trans was also very durable. The slant 6 Chrysler engine was also very good. Then came the mid 70's and alot of "advancements in technology" came along which I think were disasters in some cases. Lean burn ignition systems coupled with lock up torque convertors, carburetors with tamper proof idle adjustments, light duty differentials with spider gears that failed, front wheel drive cars that blow head gaskets and wipe out cv joints all of the time, automatic transmissions that don't have adjustable linkage shift points like the old ones did so a guy can adjust it to suit his own driving style, lease cars that are designed to last 3 years, lift pumps with inferior parts known to fail and not re-engineered to perform and last, aftermarket wheel bearings that will collapse within a year, rotors that are made on a minimum so once they warp they are scrap, door handles that break and door hinges that wear out rapidly, manual transmissions that don't work properly, etc... For the money that we spend to buy these vehicles we shouldn't need "forums" on the internet to make and keep the things running. It's rediculous really.:confused: I'm just pissed off because all of these automatic transmissions these days aren't worth anything.I have rebuilt 727's and 904's in the past and they were very easy and cheap to do. I can't wait to take apart one of these "new modern" trans and see what they have in them.
  22. I update my APPS sensor page to include a waning about voltage adjustment. There is a lot of people saying to adjust the voltage. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm
  23. APPS Sensor Replacement Procedure Description The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly is located at the top-left-front of the engine (Fig. 4). A plastic cover is used to cover the assembly. The actual sensor is located behind its mounting bracket (Fig. 5). Operation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is a linear potentiometer. It provides the Engine Control Module (ECM) with a DC voltage signal proportional to the angle, or position of the accelerator pedal. In previous model years, this part was known as the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Diesel engines used in previous model years used a mechanical cable between the accelerator pedal and the TPS lever. Linkage and bellcranks between the TPS cable lever and the fuel injection pump were also used. Although the cable has been retained with the Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor), the linkage and bellcrank between the cable lever and the fuel injection pump are no longer used. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is calibrated and permanently positioned to its mounting bracket. Removal The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. TheAccelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly is located at the left front of the engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Fig. 6). Front with cover removed Rear of APPS sensor Disconnect both negative battery cables at both batteries. Remove cable cover. Cable cover is attached with 2 Phillips screws, 2 plastic retention clips, and 2 push tabs. Remove 2 Phillips screws and carefully pry out 2 retention clips. After clip removal, push rearward on front tab, and upward on the lower tab for cover removal. Using finger pressure only, disconnect end of speed control servo cable from throttle lever pin by pulling forward on connector while holding lever rearward.DO NOT try to pull the connector off perpendicular to lever pin. The connector will be broken. Using two small screwdrivers, pry throttle cable connector socket from throttle lever ball. Be very careful not to bend throttle lever arm. Disconnect transmission control cable at lever arm (if equipped). Refer to 21, Transmission. Squeeze pinch tabs on speed control cable and pull cable rearward to remove from cable mounting bracket. Squeeze pinch tabs on the throttle cable and pull cable rearward to remove from cable mounting bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to 21, Transmission for transmission control cable removal procedures. Disconnect wiring harness clips at the bottom of the bracket. Remove 6 mounting bolts and partially remove Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly from the engine. After the assembly is partially removed, disconnect the electrical connector from the bottom of the sensor by pushing on connector tab. Remove Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) assembly from the engine. Installation The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets, and sensor. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS sensor) is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly is located at the left front of the engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Fig. 6). Snap electrical connector into the bottom of the sensor. Position Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS Sensor) assembly to the engine and install 6 bolts. Tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque. Connect wiring harness clip (Fig. 8) at the bottom of the bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to Group 21, Transmission for transmission control cable installation procedures. Install speed control cable into the mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Fig. 7) have secured cable. Install throttle cable into the mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Fig. 7) have secured cable. Connect throttle cable at the lever (snaps on). Connect speed control cable to the lever by pushing cable connector rearward onto lever pin while holding lever forward. Install cable cover. Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries. ECM & APPS Calibration WARNING! Any time the batteries are disconnected, batteries ran dead, ECM disconnected, APPS disconnected, APPS replaced the APPS calibration procedure MUST be done again to reset the APPS idle and WOT limits. If the calibration is not done error codes and other issues must occur. Disconnect the batteries and leave disconnected for at least 30 minutes. Now reconnect the batteries. Turn the key to ON position. Without starting the engine, slowly press throttle pedal to the floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC’s may be set.
  24. I have recently bought my first Dodge Cummins, I have been a ford guy prior and am retiring my 1993 7.3L F350 with 330k miles on it. Anyway my pickup is a '02 4X4 5-Speed, all was well for the first week or so that I owned it then it started to the this surging thing, it usually surges between 1500-1900rpm, under load, like accelerating or going up a hill, sometime way worse than other times. [*]I don't show any error codes with the ignition switch way of looking [*]I have reset the APPS [*]I have cleaned my grounds [*]Happens while both while using cruise control and not using cruise control Seems like a Timbo APPS has fixed things similar to this for others, just wanting to get some other folks opinion about if they think this could be APPS related or not. Or other ideas of what may be the cause? It looks like I'm not alone with this type of problem, seems to be many threads about it, I have tried to read most of them, but I'm still not sure... Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
  25. So I had a annoying slight surge when not under load at highway speeds. I did some research on this and a few other sites and ordered up a Timbos APPS. It got here in only 4 DAYS. I couldn't believe it. I can't get stuff here from Calgary in 4 days and thats only 200 miles away. Anyway got it installed, surge is totally gone and it feels like the first half of throttle is crisper now too. Great instructions and packaging too. Thanks TIMBO!!!
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