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Found 9 results

  1. So I have a 2001 dodge cummins with the 6 speed manual, it has 50 horse injectors (50k on them) new vp44 (20k on that) the batteries are fairly new. It also has a pacbrake, air dog 150 which was installed before the new VP44 and a holset turbo that pushes a little more boost than stock and it also has a 4 in straight pipe. The issue with this truck is I have a miss and I called the kid tonight and he bought the APPS sensor from dieselsource.com and HE DID NOT CALIBRATE it. He told me he was getting his dead pedal in the same area I said it was missing at. I have cleaned the IAT sensor, probed the ECT and it all checked out good the only codes are a P0500 ( speed sensor signal ) and P0118 ( self created high voltage in ECT sensor while testing it). So tonight I pulled the battery cables followed the steps exactly and after I turned the KEY back off after calibrating it, I started it and idled it up and the miss started at 1200 RPM and went through 1700 and then in a few mins it only isolated to around 1500-1700.So my main question is what can happen if you DO NOT calibrate the APPS, and any advice on this situation would be very helpful. I am about to sell this truck and I NEED TO FIX THIS!Thanks, Corey
  2. has a adrenaline and new vp44 fuel pressure is good but it dont fuel like it should ive asked a few diesl shops and no body can tell me what to look for :banghead: so does any one have any info that could help
  3. Just as the title states it is just a momentary burp. Very repeatable. Doesn't matter if the engine is cold, hot, etc. According to the Edge Attitude monitor it is not related to throttle position (as the percent of throttle in which it occurs can be different and it still happens.) You can feel a slight lag in the truck then it picks up again. It is fine before or after. It happens about 80% of the time. Some clues that may help...it didn't happen before my hard starting problem appeared. However about a year before the hard starting appeared my check engine light came on and it was diagnosed as a crank position sensor code. The code went away and therefore the crank position sensor wasn't replaced at the time. A while, 6 months or so, after the hard starting appeared I started getting a random heavy miss at idle. When it happened the check engine light would come on. I wasn't able to check it since the diagnostic port had broken so I merely assumed from reading forum searches about the symptoms that it was a crank position sensor. I replaced the sensor and the code cleared itself after a days driving. However this power loss is still there and seems completely rpm dependent. I am planning on purchasing an OBDII blue tooth link adapter so that I can scan the truck via phone or laptop. It is capable of giving real-time data. However at this point I am shooting in the dark.No check engine light illuminated, no codes, and other than the power loss spot the truck runs great. The AirDog 150 never goes below 11psi.
  4. I recently bought a 1997 auto Dodge cummins with #0 fuel plate full back, AFC full back (towards cab) 3000 GSK and 15* of timing. I have tweaked on the star wheel a little bit. My question is I have a 1999 24valve cummins auto with RV 275 injectors that has alot more low end power than this 12 valve. Is this normal? The 12 valve will run off and leave the 12 valve in upper RPM's but not down low. Is this normal due to variable timing and slightly larger injectors of the 24 valve? My 24 valve would really light the turbo at about 1200 rpm but the 12 valve won't until about 1600 rpm.So far the 24 valve is the better tow rig just because of low end grunt. Any suggestions?
  5. Pulled the 5'er 50 miles to the lake. When I arrived, the idle was very rough and arhythmic. I mean this thing sounded like a 50 yr old gas burner that had never seen new plugs and contacts. The next day everything was fine. VP44? Eric
  6. I have 2001 Dodge Ram with cummings engine. Has the following symptoms [*]Sometimes you get in and turn key and it will turn over and over and never hits a lick, but if you turn key off and try again it cranks right up. [*]Sometimes you get in and it cranks the first try [*]Does not matter if it's hot or cold [*]Sometimes it seems to be slugish (as in it will slow down on a hill and if you step on it, keeps slowing down), the next drive is just fine all the power you need. I have done the following [*]New fuel filter [*]Checked pressure and it's 21 PSI at idle, using the test location at the injector pump [*]Not sure about the following, it only pumps when cranking, should it pre-pump when you turn the key on? or does the pump only run when starting? [*]Soon as you turn key off, pressure QUICKLY (2-3 seconds) drops to 0, should it not hold pressure for a while after it has pumped up? Any suggestions?
  7. Drove the truck into work this morning and everything was perfectly normal. Left work at 5, it fired up even more quickly than usual, with just the tiniest bump of the key, and seemed to be idling fine. Backed out of the parking space fine, and it wasn't til I pulled out of the parking lot that I noticed it sounded off. And then it started chugging, forcing me to shift it into neutral and keep the revs around 1200 to keep it alive. I pulled into the nearest parking lot to see what I could see, thinking maybe one of the intercooler boots blew off or something, but they looked fine. I tried revving it with the throttle cable, and it builds revs pretty quick, and only as it really starts going does the problem make itself apparent. I managed to limp the 9 miles home at under 35mph (easier thanks to stupid traffic) running like crap the whole way. The smoke was only the initial part of the trip, while the motor was still cold. I have no check engine light, and the only codes are P0500 and P1693. I have had 3 APPS-related codes in the last few months, which have gone away as quickly as they've come up. Thoughts?
  8. The engine in my truck is surging. Do you guys have any suggestions? Here is a link for more information. Thanks in advance.
  9. I have a 02 2500 4x4 auto with edge drag box, about 2 month ago or so ( I dont drive my truck much in the summer ) it threw a p0236 and p0237 I reset the codes and waited to see if they woudl come back but they didn't the odd thing is that the truck still acts the same at about 37mph and up till 43mph I get very very bad hesitation if I am not on the skinny pedal hard it almost feels like it wont shift into OD but its not really a trans problem ( thats what I think ) the edge off or unplugged same issue happens should I just buy a boost pressure sensor and change it or can it be cleaned re installed ? if thats the problem at all and I have p1693 code when cycling the key three times thanks for the help
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