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Found 39 results

  1. Hey guys, so here's my problem. Bought an 03 dodge 2500 24v Cummins. Well I'm chasing it's demons now. Clear the codes and pull new, I get open circuit bank 2 injectors 4-6. I had a misfire on 6 so I replaced the injector (mechanical fail and the injector in it wasn't for the 03-4.5) also replaced the injector harness on #6 since it didn't ohm to spec) still hearing the thump/tick. Second code p2509 I believe, the intermittent power to ecm/pcm. I start checking grounds (I have tested the ecm harness to ecm and harness to b+ and b-, all checked out. So I'm chasing grounds but have had zero luck finding a schematic of grounding wires (have found a ground to cab that was broken) found three grounds on the driver side and nodda on the passenger side. Anywho can anyone help a girl out? Wish it was a 12v I'm tempted to do a swap at this point.
  2. I've got an ECM that no longer powers the lift pump on an 02 24v Cummins HO. I replaced the VP44 and hotwired the aftermarket lift pump (airdog raptor) to test. Manually supplying power to the lift pump and bleeding injectors did the trick, so now I need to wire it in properly. I read the article on RF noise with aftermarket lift pumps, so I'll modify the harness with a .1 Mfd Orange drop capacitor and modify the pump when I have it out again. Given that my ECM lift pump circuit is DOA, where should I grab a trigger voltage to engage the lift pump relay? I am looking at the light green and black wire carrying ignition power at F18 in the first diagram in the engine wiring diagrams post. Is that the best circuit?
  3. I want to install a Goose neck plug in the back of my '71 F250. I want to do it through a separate relay/fuse box. I have been searching for almost a year for a write up on it or a kit or...…. So I thought I would ask here. How do I go about this. I want to have the electrical load separate from the main wiring to protect the main pickup harness. I have a 20' chunk of trailer harness and the plugs, a relay/fuse box out of the '94 dodge donor, and a brake controller. I also want to put the headlights on relays and have a relay for additional lights. Any guidance will be helpful.
  4. EDIT: PM ISX for diagram Hey Gang... I got the 1997 Dodge Cummins full color wiring diagram finally compiled for you guys and gals. 1997-Dodge-Cummins-Wiring-Diagrams.pdf Enjoy...
  5. Alright, a lot has happened with the truck since I last commented on here. My truck is a 1998.5 slt Laramie(I have the pull out headlight switch), everything I read online says it comes with foglight wiring. I bought a set of 4 led pods, 2 fog light relays(as my PDC had the slots and 12v power running to them, I used a test light to check for power) I installed the 10amp fuse for the drl lamp spot as it was missing for some reason but was also hot. My trick has a plug in the center underneath the radiator. I went to the salvage yard and found a truck with some foglight wiring but it was 2 prong plug, and I found a truck with a 3 prong plug like mine but just the plug as the wires had been cut. I know I can just run them to the battery and then to a switch, but I want it to be as factory as possible. The 1998 foglight/airbag switch is discontinued so I was going to try and wire my low beam power to the relay which would then send power to the foglights when low beams are on. So my question is, is this 3 prong plug correct or am i SOL? And if it is correct what other fuses/relays do I need to install in PDC or fuse label in cab to send power to fog lights while low beams are on. I know I would have to splice atleast 1 set of wires.
  6. Does anyone know what this orange wire goes to? In the schematic it looks like 5v.
  7. Here you go gang! I compiled a full wiring diagram PDF file for you to all enjoy for your 2002 Dodge Trucks. This is a heck of alot easier to read compared to the Dodge FSM manual that is just good old black and white. Go here to get it! https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/
  8. Today I went to borrow my friends car hauler to rescue my broken down commuter car and only the brake lights and turn signals would work on the trailer. I tried my second 7 pin connector for the 5th wheel in the box and it was the same thing, so I figured the problem is upstream of the 7pin connectors. Did a bit of reading and found the big square 40a fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay and sure enough she was toast. Stole the 40a from the fuel heater until the parts store opens in the morning and everything was working again. I'm looking for some suggestions why this could have happened? I My guess is that it was one of the following things: 1) 19 year old truck and maybe just time for it to go? 2) My 3 year old son likes playing with water guns and could have squirted a bunch of water in the 7 pin connector and shorted something. 3) I have LED reverse lights on my dump trailer and maybe I was in reverse long enough for it to cook the fuse 4) maybe somewhere there is a corroded wire that is creating a lot of resistance If the fuse pops again, where should I look first? After replacing the fuse I drove around with my friends trailer and it was fine. When I got home I hooked up to my dump trailer since I will be working tomorrow and everything worked fine with the new fuse, so I don't think there is a short somewhere since the fuse didn't pop. The only relevant information I can think of is I recently replaced the battery on the dump trailer with a larger capacity deep cycle battery, but I don't see how that would matter. I've had the LED reverse lights on the trailer since I rewired it 1.5 years ago. I don't remember the numbers on them but they aren't a high power light. Maybe if I blow a fuse again I can run a relay with the main power source coming from the dump trailer battery instead of powering straight from the trailer wiring? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  9. I ordered towing mirrors off amazon last year. Got them in and installed them, I hook them up and tested both sides before putting everything back together. Both worked, Installed them, Passenger side still worked, but driver side didn't. Emailed company they sent out another set, error happened and I got 1 correct and 1 for a 2010+ sized mirror. Emailed them they sent out another set and they were correct. months go by and I didn't have the need to change the mirrors out as i already had them adjusted to where i needed them(folded down) I did some trading with a friend and traded him the mirrors that were messed up for a leveling kit and some cash. We took old ones off and up new ones on my truck. Tested before installing them everything worked great. Start the truck and turn it around in the driveway. My driver side works fine now but my passenger side on goes left and up folded in or flopped out. Im not a wiring guy and I need help figuring out why it has done this.
  10. I know I know, I have alot of posts on different subjects but I want to get everything lined out of this truck. I still haven't messed with the oil pan gasket and I need a front timing cover and tappet cover gasket aswell. I am curious of how to wire up a relay for the headlights on my 1998 dodge. Its not a sport model it originally had the 9004 lights in it but recently got some aftermarket cleared lens with projector. It has a dual beam setup but still uses the 9004 plug. Works great! I am gunna do the high low mod and have both on at once by using the wire splice under the steering wheel and want to take load of switch aswell so I want to add a relay to driver and passenger side. How do I go about doing this.
  11. 1998 cummins 5.9 24v having problems with po113 code, cannot erase, IAT sensor reads -40 in live data. That reading dose not change if i unplug the sensor, leave it plugged in, or put a jumper in the IAT plug, it reads -40 no matter what. I am pulling 4.8v on my multimeter at the IAT plug with both test leads in connector. I put a 2.7k ohm resistor in IAT plug and i can clear the po113 code and run truck, forcing IAT to read around 114. How ever something is forcing the truck into high idle and then what i believe to be 3 cyl high idle. It dose this if i run truck without resistor in and check engine light on to. I have checked continuity on both IAT conector wires back through ecm plug, along with the wires for the CTS and MAP sensor. They all tested good when i ohm tested them. I have also replaced the IAT sensor CTS and MAP sensor. I pulled IAT sensor and check resistance on it and it seemed good still as the reading dropped when i put heat to it with blow dryer. I also took alternator to local Oreillys and had it bench tested 6 times and it passed every time, (i knew for sure it was charging but thought maybe bad diode.) Also have to brand new batteries, and have researched ground locations and cleaned every single one to shinny metal.The truck also has smarty but programmed to stock, along with edge juice with aditude which is completely disconnected. However before i disconnected it completely it said the ecm was getting 14.2 volts with truck running is that normal? Also the truck has a high idle kit of some sort installed but it works fine, actuator type mounted under throttle housing. It only allows high idle at 1200 rpm and works fine whe. Engaged and dis engaged. I have run out of ideas any input would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Okay guys I'm new to the forum here and I need some help. I have a 1999 24v and on my way to work the other day my truck died on me and completely shut off in the middle of the road. It didnt have any weird symptoms before this happened it just died and now will not restart. Any ideas as to what this could be or where I could begin trouble shooting this?
  13. I am new here to the site, but I am having an issue with my Dodge. I had some issues starting my truck, when I turned the key over lights would come on and truck would start but showed no voltage, and abs/ parking brake lights on and gauges showed no voltage or tach, oil pressure nothing. Next time it would just click when the key was turned over, tried again a few times and it started. So I decided to test my ignition switch and found it to be bad, no voltage when the key was turned to start. Fixed the starting problem or at least i thought so. Now my GEN light is on, wont shift out of first, and my voltage is staying at 12v until engine warms up to 180 degrees then, shifts 1,2,3 but GEN light is still on and voltage drops to about 8v. Alternator was replaced and checked, batteries were charged and load tested everything worked out fine once replaced, next day same issues. Now it wont start again, tested ignition switch again, and its bad...again..Any ideas? By the way the vehicle is a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500, 12valve Cummins, A/T, 4x4.
  14. Ok, I have a 96 dodge 12v in a 1956 ford truck . No computer, and I was planning on hooking up a computer in it to run the transmission. I have the dreaded 47re . So my question is how do I power up the computer system and what wiring do I have to hook up to make it work? Any help would be great thanks in advance.
  15. I found a small wire loom hanging from the truck which and one time was up under the hood. I dont know what it goes to but i traced the loom back to a connector in the drivers front wheel well between the inner fender liner and the fender at the front of the door. It is the single red wire coming out of the loom. On the way home my tranny temp gauge went nutty. Should not have anything to do with the above since it is not factory. I got home shut the engine off. Restarted a couple minutes and it was working fine. Coincidence ??
  16. My low beam on the passenger side is not working but works when you turn on high beam. Is this from a short in line somewhere or switch or what? Has anyone else had this kind of problem. I have changed the sockets out with new ones, checked for shorts (as good as I can while on the truck) on the harness but nothing to obvious. let me know what y'all think
  17. I have a 2006 And recently purchased LED light bars which I would like to mount on the front of the vehicle. I will be replacing the two lower stock fog lights with LED pods and adding a 20 inch lightbar under the grill between bumper to use for highbeams. Ideally I would like to utilize the fog light function for the LED pods but leave the pods on when initiating the highbeams. Speaking of the high beams I was hoping to incorporate the 20 inch lightbar into the highbeam switch that's located on the steering column, does anybody see any issues with doing this? To summarize I suppose the total level of effort would be integrating the pods into the current fog light switch and then bypassing the fog light off function when initiating the highbeams; leaving all lights on. As well as including the 20 inch bar to turn on with the highbeams. Any insights you guys had out there are greatly appreciated hope everybody has a great Memorial Day weekend.
  18. So, I decided to build a relay harness for my headlights. I've heard people have had good luck with getting more light output so i decided to give it a go. With the harness installed, only the driver headlight works. It looks much brighter, but one light wont cut it! LOL. High and low beam have the same result. The high beam indicator is on with the high beams but goes off with the lows, like its supposed to. I used the Low+ and Common from one side on the relay for the low beams, then I used the High+ and Common from the other side to trigger the Highbeam relay. The reason I used the common from the OEM harness is these headlighs are 99% of the time ground switched/triggered systems. Anyone have any thoughts as to why I only have one light lit? Relays are confirmed working, Wiring is soldered with verified continuity. Thanks, Travis
  19. I have all my gauges and comp ran through the hole that the clutch rod goes through so im gonna have to change them out. Do you with stick shifts drill a hole or is there a better spot?
  20. Howdy folks, Been working to much to be around here lately. Still working to much, but thats better than not working at all.<br><br>I am having a slow start problem. The starter is turning the motor to slow like my battries are weak. I cheked the batteries this morning before starting and they read 12.5v before starting and after sitting all night. When I hit the switch it turned slowly and the voltage dropped to near 10.5. Thge engine started after a couple of seconds. It seems to start alittle slower thru the day. Iam getting worried one time it is not going to start. <br><br>The alternator is putting out 14v while running. When I first get in and turn the switch on the volt meter in the truck isx sitting near 12v and the DVM is reading 12.5. After it starts it takes about 30 to 45 seconds for the voltage to get up to 14v. It seems to me it used to not take that long to reach just past 14v and the truck gauge.<br><br>I have not had much time to investigate the problem and tomorrow will be about the only day I wil have. Just wondering what you folks think might be wrong.
  21. my raptor fuel pump stopped putting pressure out about 3weeks ago. the motor runs fine but no fuel pressure is read from mechanical and electrical gauge. checked voltage and it is good at 8.5 volts without starting it. the motor turns and there is no suction on inlet. so i told airdog about it and they shipped me a new one. i just installed it, and there is no suction. it will not prime. 2 spinning pumps, so what the heck am i doing wrong?
  22. So... In the relay / bus box on the drivers side behind the battery. There are two leads, going into the box. A red one, and a black one. The red wire, goes to the drivers side battery, and the black one goes where? I can't seem to find it on any of the wiring diagrams. (if i am missing it on one of Mike's diagrams, please help) I am showing 12V on the black wire as well as the red, and before putting a DVM on it I had always assumed it was a ground. Does it go to the curbside battery? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1689&d=1301768556
  23. Hey all iv been searching all over the internet for a pin out for my 1995 ram 2500 12 valve. the problem im having is all the pin outs are for a 3 plug pcm, mine is only a 1 plug with 60 pins, im trying to diagnose why my pcm has no power or gorund, because the charging system, grid heaters, tach, overdrive, pretty much anything controlled thru that computer is dead, i already changed the ESS engine speed sensor, thats what i was told would cause the problem, and yet still have the same problem, iv traced it to the pcm plug, if i wiggle the plug with the key on, i can hear the grid heaters clicking on an off, if i wedge the plug in an up positon everything works just fine so im trying to figure out what wire is the culpret, please send ur information my way! thanks! --- Update to the previous post... newest information, the check engine light, wait to start light, waterin fuel light and trans temp light are goin crazy comming on and off, as well as relays clicking on the driver side of the hood when i mess with the wires at the pcm, i can even com close to finding the problem cause anthing i touch makes it go crazy, im at a serious loss here please help! THANKS!!!
  24. Somewhere in my big book of projects, I need to redo the wiring on my car trailer. Just a plain old 18' hauler. I know the wiring schematic, just looking for ideas on execution. Not sure if I want to add a breakaway switch or not. I probably should. One idea is to put a 7 way connector on the trailer like the truck and have a doulbe male ended patch cord to connect the 2. No hanging wires to catch. If I get 7 conductor trailer cable, I basically have to cut the jacket off at the axles to pull the brake wires out then just run the remaining wires for the lights. Or I could get a parallel pair for the brakes and the 4 conductor wire for the lights. I might also need a 7 stud junction box on the tounge as well, if I do the female connector on the trailer as well. Any suggestions? Want to keep it simple so trouble shooting is easier as well. I have had this thing for about 15yrs and its finally time to fix the wiring, and make it last another 15. Interesting how I never had any issues with it till I loaned it out. Now if someone needs it I will do the pulling. lesson learned.
  25. Okay, so as far as I can tell this fiasco started with my cab lights. What happend is I was using my power seat fuse to tap into for pwr. I had my neg terminal disconnected but sometime during the event it made contact without me knowing:doh:. While i was hiding the pwr wire under the dash it grounded and blew a few fuses. My pwr mirrors, door locks, interior light, pwr seat, and speed cntrl on wipers (low and high still work), ODB II port (cant clear codes), and high beam indicator:banghead:. The fuses it blew in the cab were:#1 15A park lamp#4 10A pwr amp#5 5A illum#12 10A IOD#13 10A pwr lock#14 10 A cluster B The fuses in the PDC was the 40A trailer (grn) fuse. So after replacing all of the dead fuses they are all still not getting pwr from the PDC (or where ever it comes from) the hot side of the fuses are all dead. All of the fuses and relays in the PDC are good and passing pwr. The #6 25A wiper is still good but again the the intermitant speed/delay does not function just low and high. I have pulled the codes from the odometer and they read as follows: PCU: 0622 Altenator field not switching properly, p0122 TPS low voltage, p1687 No cluster bus message, p1765 Trans 12v supply relay cnt cir. ECU: p0236 MAP Sensor too high too long, p0237 MAP Sensor Voltage too low, p0382 Intake Air heat relay #2 cntl cir. I reset the APPS and I am no longer getting the p0122 code but the rest are still prevalent. Your thoughts are welcome, I have no idea where to start for sure thinking it is something between the fuse box and the PDC. PLEASE HELP, and sorry for the long post.
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