Search the Community

Trucks been throwing the 1689 code. I started to test the truck to see how often it throws the cel. 1689 every time. It will cut the power for a few seconds EVERY time it hits 2500ish rpms, it only happens at 2500rpm's. why would it be doing it at a specific rpm? I thought for a while it was only doing it under hard acceleration but its cutting out at 2500?????? Any ideas???

so i wanna turn on the cold weather high idle on my truck and have access to a drb3 with all the chrysler software. when i go to turn it on it refuses to connect with the ecm, then i read somewhere it wants you to have the latest update before it'll let you make those changes. so far the drb3 has only been used as a scantool so no one has any idea how to reflash it. from my understanding i need a memory card with the update software on it, but not sure where or how to get it. i also have numerous cds with the title ITIL/ISIS from chrysler but i think these just updates for the drb3 itself and don't contain updates for vehicle ecms. however correct me if i'm wrong, lookin for some info, thx

Had a put an external voltage regulator on my truck because the one in the pcm went bad a long time ago... anyways today the truck started to overcharge, i cought it and pulled over asap. unplugged the external regulator so the truck was just running off the batteries got about half way home and the thing died going down the road. Pulled over, checked my raptor pump and it was putting pressure to the filter housing just fine... changed filter, it was not that bad and usually they do not just make the truck die, but changed it just in case. Then it started up and drove home fine. After about 10mins of being home went to move the truck started then died right away. Started it up again and let it run for about 20mins and it did just fine. Then went to move it again tonight and started ran for about 10mins in the driveway then died. Went to start it, died instantly. Started it again, ran for 5mins or so then died. After all this had a guy come over and he started yankin on that harness that goes into the back of the injection pump. now it will crank over but not start and the wait to start and od off light are on when they key is at the off position but not when the key is turned on.... Was just wondering if anyone had any ideas, Could that overcharging cause my ecm to take a dump? Also when turning key to the on position there is a loud click from the engine but its down by like the ac compressor sounds like then when I turn the key off it clicks again, and that happened after the guy was yanking on that harness to.

i have a friend with an 01 5 speed. his lift pump will not cut off when you turn off the ignition. he has even diisconnected the driverside battery and it stopped, but when reconnected it comes back on. any ideas?

Does anybody know the voltage when starting .When I turn the switch to on I m picking up 12 volts for 2 seconds & then it drops to 8 volts? Then when I turn the switch to start & let go I get 12 volts for 25 seconds then voltage drops to 8 volts? Why does it drop to 8 you would think it should drop to 0 volts.These test are done at the transfer pump connector.

Been trying to get this thing fixed, Went through the grounds and the 1488 and 522 codes keep coming back. Trying to trouble shoot from the book but seems it's just getting more confusing:mad: The book:1488= Auxiliary 5 volt sensor feed is sensed to be below an Acceptable limit. 5-volt Supply Voltage low. Sensor Supply voltage for E C M sensor is too low. book: 522= Oil pressure sending unit voltage input below the min acceptable voltage. Question? is there a sensor that supplies 5 volt's to the E C M?I thought the E C M did the 5 volt thing.:rolleyes:Thanks Ed.

I could really use some help. Back on 3-11-10. My friends truck a 2002 Dodge 2500 HO turbo diesel 2wd completely stock took a dump. Would start but under acceleration it would just dead pedal. pulled him home and the temp gauge was bouncing all over the place and the cruise light would blink on and off. He thought it was the IP and LP so he ordered the IP and a Fass DDRP LP. We installed it and it made no difference at all. I know we should have pulled the codes first but we didn't:banghead:. So we pulled the codesPCU p0122, p0500, p1693.ECU p0121, p0230, p1689, p0217, p1488, p0575, p0562, po237 I did some searching and found a post by mopar on 5-29-2009 that said Quote:Pretty simple really... P0121, P0122, or P0123 error codes are present with a dead pedal. A failing APPS always throws a code where a failing VP44 might throw a code and might not... I told my friend and since we had 2 of those codes (p0122, p0121) he ordered an APPS from timbo the next day. Later that day on my own post about this problem mopar wrote Don't bother with the APPS... Look at your codes... You got a mess of low volt codes that are not making sense...ECM is on the way out... I've seen this before... My friend decided to try the APPS first and it didn't make a difference:banghead:. So then he sent his ecm off to GOECM.com to be rebuilt. He got it back today and installed it and the truck runs exactly the same:banghead:.Now we are really puzzled:cookoo:. His dad had a code reader and they cleared the codes before installing the APPS. I had him pull the codes again tonight after installing the rebuilt ECM and this is what he got. pcu p0123, p1694, p1693ecu p0575,p0562, p1488, p0117, p0342, p0112, p0606, p1295Some of these codes are different that the original ones we got. Once again low voltage everywhere. 0606 ECM failure. We are not sure what to do next ? Mopar please do not take this post as a bash at you. I just did some searching at diesel garage and here and picked out pieces of your posts without taking all the info into consideration. We should have pulled the codes before the IP and LP replacement.(we would have seen the low voltages everywhere) We are ignorant. I should have waited before telling my friend it was the APPS (even though we had 2 of the codes for the APPS we had a bunch of low voltage codes pointing at the ECM) We are stupid. Now having the ecm rebuilt and still not working. We are puzzled. I still think we can fix this ourselves with a little help from ya'll. Hopefully someone can point us in the right direction and we can get his truck back on the road. Thank YouRob

Mike, This is my friends truck that I'm checking out now, he had posted this comment on another forum. (see below).I have a 2002 Dodge ram 2500 diesel that I am pulling a map and iat sensor code on. My mechanic thinks it is the ECM but is not sure. I only have about 1/4 of the pedal and then nothing happens after that. If anyone has had this problem and could help me I would appreciate it. Thanks Mike, I'll have to post this in a series since it has a bunch of info on it.Mike, all this took place before I actually had a chance to do any of the diagnostic testing listed below. This is what happened before I got my hands on this truck. Every one who or where he has drove the truck to and put a scanner this includes mechanics, parts stores and dealership came up with the two codes P0112 & P0237 low voltage from both IAT & MAP sensors componet failure according to the Dealership. Another thing to me of concern is that nobody including the dealership can't clear the check engine light and because I don't have a scanner yet but I performed the on and off with the Ignition key bunch of other codes showed up, (P0117, P0122, P0217, P0251, P0342, P0562, P0606, P1295, P1488, P1693, P0180, P0181, P0215). Why all these codes and no IAT or MAP sensor code now? He already replaced the IAT sensor since that was the cheapest still no change in performance. He has a new MAP sensor on order and should be arriving any day now. I told him that any parts changer can tell you that you need to change this part or another and maybe until it finalIy runs hopefully but then it can get very very costly.I performed voltage checks at the IAT, MAP, and coolant temp sensors and they all have around 5 volts going into them. I don't know what voltages are needed from the sensors going back to the ECM harness or ECM to test them and isolate if this is a defective wiring problem, poor ground, ECM, and or PCM. THESE ARE other symtoms that just started to occur after he drove it home from the dealership.The engine coolant temp gauge started to read max hot and drop right back down to cold, ( I checked that the engine isn't overheating). When you press down on the accellerator the engine coolant temp gauge goes up to max hot and then the engine RPM will drop down till idle then as the coolant temp drops back down to normal then the engine RPMS goes back up. I think the ECM is trying to shut the engine down when it senses the overheating from the Engine coolant temp sensor.This truck has 109,000 miles, K&N air Intake system, exhaust system and FASS lift pump. The VP44 pump was replaced about a year or 2 ago, and lift pump pressure is 15 lbs. at idle and drops till 11 lbs. if you floor it WOT.If anyone out there reading this forum had a similar problem and can help and got it fixed let us know. Mike,Do you know anyone who has the capability of testing out the ECM if I remove it from the truck, or do I just have to purchase a new one then have to take the truck and ECM down to the dealer and have it flashed?Thanks,MAUIBUILT

Ok, I thought I fixed my idle problem with a apps. It ran just fine for about 4 days no rump rump or anything, well its back. List of things done - second new apps,vp44,cam sensor,fuel pressure airdog 13.50lbs,tried ecm off another truck,tired turbo off anothre truck. One thing I have noticed is it only does it when eng. has been driven at hwy speed for a little while,does not rump rump at all when just idel around town. :thud

I have a Question which one controls the idle ECM or VP44. And yes I am still fighting my self weather to buy a vp44 or not.Some of you know what is going on with my truck,it is such a night mare I dont even wont to go there.But anyway here goes, rpm drop hard when shifting and even harder when AC is on. It drops so hard and fast that when AC is on and you kick it in nuteral coming to stop sign it will almost die.

Hey Guys, <<For a List of vendors who have supplied junk parts or didn't stand behind their products....see the bottom of the article.>> pepsi71ocean here. I decided to finally write this article up after another round of people with issues with reman companies. So a while ago back in 10/2015 I shorted out my PCM with a botched rebuild on my Alternator(I forgot to add a sealing washer!) As a result, after replacing the defective alternator I still had no charging on the alternator. I went hunting for a re builder for my PCM. I was quoted almost $800 for a new blank from Dodge, and that didn't include programming. A friend of mine on Facebook who runs a Diesel Rebuild shop in the Midwest forwarded me this company here. <<List of Verified and Reliable PCM/ECM Re-builders>> I have put the company in table format, but If you have another one you used then message me and I'll add the Info. Verified Re-builder Website Telephone Number of Rebuilds Type 1. Autocomputer Specialist https://autocomputerspecialist.com/ 1-954-513-8359 9 PCM-ECM-TIPM 2. Diesel System Services http://www.blacksmokin.com/ 1-619-749-6226 1 ECM 3. Reman Auto Electronics https://www.remanautoelectronics.com/ 1-855-466-6938 1 ECM 4. Crites Car Computers <pending clarification> https://www.critescore.com/ 1-800-900-3267 1 ECM 5. ECM Repair 1 http://www.ecmrepairs.com/ 1-800-737-0915 3 ECM-ABS? 6. SIA Electric http://siaelec.com/ 1-800-737-0915 1 ECM 1. AUTOCOMPUTER SPECIALIST: I was referred to them by my friend Stanley. In the end I believe the price for the rebuild was about $350. I called them, they emailed me the form to fill out with a brief description of the problem, then shipped my PCM to them. And when they opened it up they also sent me a photo and let me know what the issue was. Now they also gave me the list of possible wire issues, but I also knew that I was almost sure it was a botched alternator rebuild that I did on the one NAPA alternator. Here is the photo they sent me below. Total Turn time for me was 5 days and that included the shipping to and from their place in Florida. To date I have approximately 30,000 miles, and 4 years on this rebuild. To date I know of 4 other Dodge Cummins trucks running rebuild PCM's Although Stanley said he has sent out a dozen PCM/ECM's to them over time for customers from his shop, and that includes some medium duty stuff. UPDATE: 2. Diesel System Services: Referred by mopar1973member Bobalos. Main contact at DSS is Steven Bruce.. He used to work for Cummins. Member has verified ECM still runs. 3. Reman Auto Electronics: Referred by mopar1973member GSP7. Reman Auto Electronics is a subsidiary of Flight Systems Electronics Group. Recommendation by Cummins Fleet Mechanic as well. 4. Crites Car Computers: Referred by mopar1973member Ho$$. Currently I am seeing confirmation that it is not Crites Core Company, Inc. 5. ECM Repair 1: Referred by CumminsForum member indy1k, and 6. SIA Electric: Referred by CumminsForum member chansey NOTES: If you do send me a company, name the number of miles/years you have on your rebuild, and if they were easy to work with or not. If you could a short summary would be good as well. ---------------------------------------------------------------- <<From here below is a list of vendors who have failed to supply good product, or didn't stand behind their product>> Below here is a list of Vendors/re builders that have supplied problematic rebuilds, and have not made attempts to rectify the problem. I didn't have to do much searching online to discover lists of complaints. Re-builder Website Telephone #Complaints FlagShipOne(NY) http://www.fs1inc.com/ 1-516-766-2223 More then one 1 All Computer Resources(FL) https://store.allcomputerresources.com/ 1-866-699-5230 1-1(one guy bought here who didn't have issue) Automotive Scientific Inc. https://www.autoecu.com/ 1-866-983-6688 1 Carcomputer Exchange https://carcomputerexchange.com/ 1-888-875-2958 1 A-1 Cardone http://www.cardone.com/ 1-888-280-8324 6 Auto Computer Exchange https://www.autocomputerexchange.com https://www.autocomputerexchange.net 1-800-680-4275 3 NOTES: All Computer Resources(FL): One member has bought from here with no issue as of 12/16/2018. However they still have one negative review. I hope this list will help people avoid a potential nightmare in dealing with computer issues in the future. UPDATED 01/19/2019 by John Armstrong Jr. Revision 2.1 View full Cummins article

Dead again! Error codes with 3X key method P1693, P0215, P0521 Innova 3100 Code reader shows nothing.... P0215 shows fuel relay, I checked the PDC with a test light and I have power to the pin labeled 87. The relay showed 80 ohms between 87 and 86. P1693 ECM. P0521 oil pressure switch. The engine will not turn over, all the dash lights goes dead when I try to start, there is a very faint wait to start light . Even with a battery charger set to 80 amp jump mode, there is a huge drain somewhere. The grid heater wires are not getting hot either. I checked the other relays and I saw nothing major. Grid heater relay maybe? I was going to go boating on the 4th but the POST ruins another weekend. I hope y'all's trucks are doing better than mine. Thanks Have a Happy 4th of July! Independence Day! P. S. Just think folks, if not for the 4th we would have been part of the EU and Brexit

I'm replacing this wire: The wire is a shielded twisted-pair with a drain (SAE J1939/11). The wire seen here is the stock wire. It's comically unkempt. Note that the orange wire is about five inches too long, so that it must be doubled-back to make it the proper length. Also, the shielding is missing from the first six inches, and the last four inches. Neither of these is a problem from a functionality standpoint. I mean, it probably doesn't hurt anything. It's just sloppy. That loose twist of shielding provides no benefit, so why did they leave it loose like that? This is what I made to replace it. All new wire and connectors. It was hard to find a short length of J1939 wire. I found a few sources that were happy to sell me a 250ft spool, but I wasn't happy enough to buy it. I found a guy on ebay selling teflon/silver shielded twisted pair. $35 bought me 25ft. I wasn't trying to get silver. In fact, I wouldn't have bought it if I had realized that this is what it was. However, this is remarkable wire, so I'm going to give it a try. It's temperature rated to 200ºC. I don't know if it's oil rated.

1998 cummins 5.9 24v having problems with po113 code, cannot erase, IAT sensor reads -40 in live data. That reading dose not change if i unplug the sensor, leave it plugged in, or put a jumper in the IAT plug, it reads -40 no matter what. I am pulling 4.8v on my multimeter at the IAT plug with both test leads in connector. I put a 2.7k ohm resistor in IAT plug and i can clear the po113 code and run truck, forcing IAT to read around 114. How ever something is forcing the truck into high idle and then what i believe to be 3 cyl high idle. It dose this if i run truck without resistor in and check engine light on to. I have checked continuity on both IAT conector wires back through ecm plug, along with the wires for the CTS and MAP sensor. They all tested good when i ohm tested them. I have also replaced the IAT sensor CTS and MAP sensor. I pulled IAT sensor and check resistance on it and it seemed good still as the reading dropped when i put heat to it with blow dryer. I also took alternator to local Oreillys and had it bench tested 6 times and it passed every time, (i knew for sure it was charging but thought maybe bad diode.) Also have to brand new batteries, and have researched ground locations and cleaned every single one to shinny metal.The truck also has smarty but programmed to stock, along with edge juice with aditude which is completely disconnected. However before i disconnected it completely it said the ecm was getting 14.2 volts with truck running is that normal? Also the truck has a high idle kit of some sort installed but it works fine, actuator type mounted under throttle housing. It only allows high idle at 1200 rpm and works fine whe. Engaged and dis engaged. I have run out of ideas any input would be greatly appreciated.

hey, i am getting the p0122-(pedal position sensor voltage too low) trouble code with check engine light on my 24 valve cummins. i did the diagnostic procedures listed on this website for that trouble code, on steps 4 and 5 of the listed procedures i got an "O.L" reading on my DVOM which means "open line" i guess? can any one tell me what this means or what i need to do to fix my dead pedal issue (always at beginning of the gear if it happens) ? im pretty new to this cummins and this website. any responses would great! thanks. STEPS 4 and 5 4. Ensure APPS connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 3 (Light Blue/Black wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, repair short to ground in Light Blue/Black wire. 5. Ensure APPS and ECM connectors are still disconnected. Measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 5 (Dark Blue/White wire) on APPS connector. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/White wire.

thank you for looking, this is my first post after joining this forum. I have owned this CTD for a few months after purchasing it from a private seller and is my first diesel. my problems currently have started with loaning the truck to my younger brother to take to school. He left the lights on all day and came back to a dead truck. I believe while having jumper cables hooked up he was able to crank it over but had no start. it is cold but i filled with winter blend the night before, no gauges installed yet but i have a FASS titanium. my brother determined the alternator was bad (not sure how), it was bench tested as 'good' from O' Rileys although they do not test for AC interference. the most intriguing information i can relay is that my scan gauge2 volt reading shows 11.8 when the dash meter shows nothing as the truck is running. the SC2 readout does not fluctuate. other pertinent information is that i recently had my auto trans swapped and batteries tested, i got the truck back with codes 113, 380, 382. the relays may be stuck, the 140 amp alt. fuse may be blown. it is frustrating as i am not able to get to the truck to do any diagnostics of my own like take grid heaters out of the loop or run a multimeter around it. the truck is a 2002 24v. where does the SC2 get its information from? any suggestions on what to try would be much appreciated.

my sons 99 model died and would not restart, I have traced the problem back to the ECM which is only sending 8.9 volts to the lift pump. I have disconnected the pump and the 50 pin connector on the ECM checked for short circuit and everything is good. I then cleaned and checked the 50 pin connector reassembled and still 8.9 volts coming out of the ECM.I was wondering if anyone has seen this issue before ?

Hi everybody. I am new here, and I have an interesting problem. Thanks in advance. 2000 5.9, 5sp, 4x4. 210,000mi. New injector pump from Midwest EFI, new Air Dog 100 lift pump. Otherwise stock. After sitting for a few days, it will take 5-10 sec crank time to start, but once it starts it runs normally. Tech is steady and normal. Not much smoke except at RPM near redline. When the truck is warm, if you let it idle, it will miss slightly. Power sucks over 2000 rpm, but isn't bad overall. Throws PO234 overboost code, but I feel that is due to the fact that I left my Edge boost elbow on the turbo. Edge juice CTS won't connect to the ECM, Dodge says that the Cummins Insite computer won't connect to the ECM. However, the truck still runs, and not that badly. The truck has had an edge juice w attitude installed previously, and I may have shorted out something in the ECM when I uninstalled the previous Juice. I also get 13-15mpg. The Dodge mechanic feels that I got some grit in the injector lines when I installed the pump, and fowled a couple injectors, then over the course of a couple days the fuel system is bleeding down. He also says that since his Cummins laptop won't connect to the ECM, I need a new ECM. He did use a scope to confirm the timing marks and the keyway on the pump is correctly installed. I need to check the fuel pressure coming out of the Air Dog, to ensure that it isn't too high... How high is too high? (I used to use an edge attitude to monitor the pressure) Any ideas guys? I am skeptical about the injectors theory, since I would expect it to smoke a lot more at 13mpg. Would the injector O rings or fuel bypass at the back of the head cause any of these symptoms? And I really want to make sure the truck is going to run decently before I drop $1,600 on a new ECM...

could you direct me to the ecm REMOVAL, OVERHAUL &INSTALLATION article

Really cool guyMan I found the best guy to buy ECM from, they are called ECM Outlet. This guy is nice and likes to talk, shoot the small talk with you .Your not just a check # with him.Cost shipped to Tx is 540.00 not dirt cheap but better than anyone I have found. Oh and five year warranty, everybody else is one year, even Cummins remanHe also said that if your P/N on ecm starts with 394 (like mine of course) they are hard to find. He also says that there are about 40 ecm's out there for our trucks 01 - 02. 1-248-565-8308Joe

I recently lost the motor in my 02 H.O 6spd truck. Right now Im researching prices and avalibility on just a drop in junkyard motor. (Gonna build the snot out of the original). Do I need to find another H.O. or will any 24 valve work. Mostly worried about the computerized end of the deal. Any experiences will be greatly appreciated.

Upfront: I apologize for the length but I am exhausted. I am nearly convinced my 99 is too old for parts support, or I’m the ONLY one to experience a FAILED 98.5-2002 ECM. I have dedicated days and nights searching the Internet for a REBUILDER with phone follow-ups. The Internet is abound with enticing websites, pictures of pristine Integrated Circuit Boards, immaculate state-of-art facilities, complete with "experts" in uniform lab coats, headgear, and nitrate gloves peering into high powered microscopes - methodically examining/testing every component to exacting standards. Each facility promises the "perfect", “tested under all conditions”, "sleep well at night" product. All you need to provide is your VIN, Transmission, ECM Code and … your CREDIT CARD information. Prices range from $236 for a “repair” to a RECON $2334.90 + 303.75 core available in 24 at Cummins. And least I not forget the bone yards…which now seek all the market will bear. For example: There’s one on EBay for 900+ and…they want a CORE in return. Curious, I even drove some distance and visited one of these "future technology" facilities. In all honesty, it was nothing but a defunct run-down warehouse with questionable equipment/qualifications. Reviews are no help. EBay might give a facility glowing reviews, but when you drill down to the local reviews (I.e. Yelp), some actually start out with "Buyer Beware". Many reviewers claim poor/rude communication experiences, multiple returns with endless accounts of Emails/phone calls not being answered/returned. Some comments substituted random alpha-numeric characters for their expletives. Included were experiences whereby the Seller/Builder tried to skirt the coveted “Lifetime Warranty” carrot. Alas, my question to Forum: Has “anyone” used an ECM rebuilder/supplier that actually provided a reputable product, willingly kept their word, and stood behind it? If so, how long has the replacement been in service and were there any issues and finally a name please? I'll even take secretive recommendations via PM. Thanks. Leaky

My 2000 Ram gave codes P0606, P0121, & P0123 when temperature below about 20 DegF about three weeks ago and I knew P0606 was the death code for ECM. I had "dead pedal" after some surging but I could idle it fo 15 minutes and as the block warmed up it worked.I was somewhat surprised there is not a dealer ECM available for this truck in all of Canada and they are about $2,100 list for a REMAN that originates from Cummins. My only recourse was to buy a wrecker ECM but the Dodge expert mechanic assigned to software warned me the ECM VIN has to match the other modules or this leads to future problems with replacing other modules. He said he could not change VIN himself with DRBIII, StarScan, or current WiTech software tools from Chrysler Corp. I decided to do extensive research on the internet and realized the Smarty S03 was a powerful programming tool for the ECM and emailed Bob Wagner in MADD electronics on ability to change VIN. He wrote back that the "recovery procedure" will take the static program image in the ECM and pull the VIN from the ABS unit to recopy to the executable image in the ECM flash memory. I was all set to buy it at $800 but I already had the Puck and decided to talk to the Dodge mechanic again and relayed all I learned about the "recovery procedure" and that I planned to buy it. It was like a light bulb turned on but he did not say much except to "bring it in". Two days later the used ECM was in my truck and working perfectly but I never did get to talk to him again as dealers do not like the nonchargeable time. I can only guess that the DRBIII "recovery procedure" does exactly the same thing as the Smarty. My belief is that Dodge fortified their flash update software so that only blank ECM's could be flashed with fresh software unless there is a TSB for new software update outstanding. This was done to ensure only Dodge supplied parts could be used. Cummins has the ECM on a "restricted status" (CumminsQuickServe online) and only Chrysler Corp can buy them. By the way I still have the old ECM and I believe the +5 volt supply to the APPS was the cause of the fault. The power supply circuit to regulate battery voltage to +5 volts is usually only a 3 terminal chip like the LM7805 regulator (Texas Inst) but requires an electrolytic capacitor on input and output terminal to ground. These electrolytics are the most unreliable components on the board and heat of an engine block ages it exponentially faster. I may make an attempt to fix it but surface mount boards usually require special equipment due to small spacing. By the way you can get a free account on Cummins QuickServe and it will cross reference any Cummins engine number to the Dodge VIN and visa versa, which is great when looking at wrecker engine parts to make sure options are same like the 47RE. I took the donor VIN to the dealer to make sure options matched. If you want to see all the Cummins part numbers (and superseded numbers) for your truck just enter one known Cummins part number on the "XReference" entry and ALL the rest will show with a diagram! You will get a list of engine vintages but choose one closest and before your build date.

I contacted Cummins to see about a replacement ECM. They have them for $2700. The 3946242RX part number also goes by ENCORE CM551A. But then I also see a 3942860RX (CM550) that also claims to work with a VP44 for $1500. And also a 3944124RX for $1300. But these other two, I have no compatibility info on. I love how the overnight shipping for a 5 lb. part is $250.

I've done the P1689 troubleshooting steps. I made it to the end of step #8. According to the steps, that means my ECM is bad. In keeping with the idea that "it's probably not the ECM," I've been trying to double-check the communication between the ECM and the VP44. I tried to put an oscilloscope on the VP44 today, to see if I could see the data. If I see the ECM's data, then it's the VP44 computer, not the ECM. I saw something that looked like PCM data, but I couldn't figure out how to set a stable trigger on it. I put channel #1 on the black & white wires (Pins 1 & 2), and put channel #2 on the green wire (Pin 8). Then I tried to trigger off of channel #2. If I tuned the trigger just right, it would hold-still for a couple seconds. I was expecting that the green wire (sync signal) would provide a perfect trigger. Does anyone know the correct scope setup to see this signal?