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Found 62 results

  1. got a airdog original pump on the truck right now and been looking at the Fuel Boss Mechanical Lift Pump System. I was wondering if anyone has had put one on yet? I want to use the airdog filter setup up on it, if it is possible or do I need to buy a different filter set up for it? Would really like it better then the airdog because im sick of messing around with the airdog and would like to have something that is really reliable. If anyone knows someone I can talk to on making the fuel boss work with the airdog filter setup that would be awesome thanks guys.
  2. First off, let me say that this forum has been very helpful before, but I just can't seem to diagnose the issue this time. Hopefully someone has an idea on how to fix this.I installed my 4 gauge Autometer digital set(Boost, EGT, FP, and Trans temp) yesterday. Everything went in smoothly. Went to start truck up, wont start. Thought ok probably the fuel pressure, so cracked one of the lines, got fuel coming out, closed it. Tried it again. Wont start.:banghead: The FP gauge reads 0 while I crank, is that normal, or will it not register until I start the truck up? Any ideas??? Thanks ahead of time!!
  3. has anyone bought a delphi fuel lift pump and if so how did it work and does it have enought pressure ? Thanks
  4. Hey guys need some help. Does anyone have a picture of a stock lift pump or explain to me where its at. Im trying to figure out if mine is on the motor or in the tank. I turned the key on to listen for it and I didnt hear anything which might not be a good sign. I know the general area of where its at. Its below and behind the fuel filter housing if its still on the motor. I've seen two things that could be it. One is horizontal with the ground. It has a red chrysler sticker on it but i could read it because of dirt. The other is mounted vertically. Any help is appreciated
  5. Had a put an external voltage regulator on my truck because the one in the pcm went bad a long time ago... anyways today the truck started to overcharge, i cought it and pulled over asap. unplugged the external regulator so the truck was just running off the batteries got about half way home and the thing died going down the road. Pulled over, checked my raptor pump and it was putting pressure to the filter housing just fine... changed filter, it was not that bad and usually they do not just make the truck die, but changed it just in case. Then it started up and drove home fine. After about 10mins of being home went to move the truck started then died right away. Started it up again and let it run for about 20mins and it did just fine. Then went to move it again tonight and started ran for about 10mins in the driveway then died. Went to start it, died instantly. Started it again, ran for 5mins or so then died. After all this had a guy come over and he started yankin on that harness that goes into the back of the injection pump. now it will crank over but not start and the wait to start and od off light are on when they key is at the off position but not when the key is turned on.... Was just wondering if anyone had any ideas, Could that overcharging cause my ecm to take a dump? Also when turning key to the on position there is a loud click from the engine but its down by like the ac compressor sounds like then when I turn the key off it clicks again, and that happened after the guy was yanking on that harness to.
  6. Was at my brothers today and was talking about his old ctd 2000 2500 4x4. anyways the lift pumped failed so he went a picked up a 100 dollar edlebrock electric fuel pump, spliced it into his lines by tank and ran them straight to filter bowl bypassing lift pump completely. ran power to a toggle switch in cab which is handy because if anyone is gonna steal the truck they would make it about 200ft before running out of fuel. after install he never dropped below 15 psi and never got above 20-21. anyone else done this?
  7. i have a friend with an 01 5 speed. his lift pump will not cut off when you turn off the ignition. he has even diisconnected the driverside battery and it stopped, but when reconnected it comes back on. any ideas?
  8. Does anybody know the voltage when starting .When I turn the switch to on I m picking up 12 volts for 2 seconds & then it drops to 8 volts? Then when I turn the switch to start & let go I get 12 volts for 25 seconds then voltage drops to 8 volts? Why does it drop to 8 you would think it should drop to 0 volts.These test are done at the transfer pump connector.
  9. Somone correct me if I am wrong!If my truck is running, and I supply power to the coil of my lift pump relay!Now I turn off the ignition will the engine stay running until I remove power from the lift pump relay?If nothing else stops the engine then that will allow it to run?
  10. Got me a better gauge today and checked my pressure on my lift pump. Got a 0 to 30 psi gauge.On starter bump i get 14 psi.start engine and run im getting 12 psi at idle.Put truck in gear, hold brake and acelerate i run at 9 psi when really pulling hard.So I'm hoping that is good enough for my stocker around town.OH yeah! I never realized how stupid I am.I realized I have a intercooler on my truck! Duh! I was thinking it was my air conditioning condensor.Like they say sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees.
  11. I posted earlier about my pressure to my vp44 and miss quoted the pressure.I just went out and rechecked my guage. I guess I was in a haste and miss read my guage.Cranking I get : 10 psiIdle I get : 12 psiFull load I get: 7 psiI usually don't use my truck for anything except go to the store, or an ocasioanal hauling of manure or maybee some rocks for around the house.Mostly just very minor things in town.I want to get a guage with more span on it now the one i have is 0- 100 psi so it might even be a little better
  12. I installed the big line kit and a fuel pressure guage. Everything was working fine, but now my fuel pressure guage bobbles back and forth when the truck is running and will stay in the area that the pressure should be. When I shut the truck off it doesnt bobble and slowly drops (wired it on a switch). Could this mean something is wrong with the pump, guage, or what? Any ideas?
  13. New to this forum and need some assistance. Recently purchased 02 3500 truck with 188k miles on it. My understanding is the fuel pump should be changed out and relocated due to the heat from the engine. The truck runs fine, but don't won't to screw up the injector pump. What pumps are recommended for this fix and where do you get the best bang for the buck? What are the pros and cons of the kit from Dodge, other than it is too damn expensive? Has anyone had any luck at repairing the rear plastic fender wells with the types of epoxies on the market? Duramix? Automix? What about adding a fuel pressure gauge and where should it located? Thanks from Texas.
  14. I have been told by our shops head diesel guy that I can just install a Raptor 100 where the stock pump used to be and leave the retrofitted intank pump alone as it will simply draw thru it. I have to say that I am leery of this setup,I have a stock 99 3500 with 237,000 on it.He runs a 2000 CTD with 500+ HP so he's no dummy but I just want it right.I was hoping the pump was still in the stock location but it as not to be,aluminum junction block.I bought the truck dirt cheap and have only put 1500 or so miles on it,fuel pressure gauge will be installed in the next 2 weeks.So what to do,the truck will be driven rarely and will be lucky to get another 1500 on it by next spring,I intend to keep it for awhile and would prefer to do it right as it will tow a 31 foot travel trailer in the future at 9000 lbs or so,thanks for your input.
  15. My 97 Dodge Diesel (which I drive rarely) has been difficult to start lately. I had to use the manual primer on the lift pump to get pressure to injector pump. I had installed a pressure guage in cab of the truck to indicate pressure feed to injector pump. The other day I drove to a friends 20 miles away. Truck ran fine after manual priming again to start it. I was parked for about 1 hour and then the truck refused to start at all. Pumped and pumped the manual primer and the pressure gauge in cab would go up to 10 psi. I would try to start the truck and pressure would drop to zero immediately. I could not belive the lift pump was bad since I replaced it 3 years ago and it has only about 3000 miles on it. It was an aftermarket DELPHI lift pump and I did determine after a lot of testing it was bad. Apparently DELPHI brand is some real junk. I bought a CUMMINS lift pump (they are made in China now) and installed it and the truck is running better than ever. I found out the hard way as difficut as these lift pumps are to install it is stupid to save a few buck and buy an aftermarket lift pump.
  16. my sons 99 model died and would not restart, I have traced the problem back to the ECM which is only sending 8.9 volts to the lift pump. I have disconnected the pump and the 50 pin connector on the ECM checked for short circuit and everything is good. I then cleaned and checked the 50 pin connector reassembled and still 8.9 volts coming out of the ECM.I was wondering if anyone has seen this issue before ?
  17. Hi all, I am new to this forum but have posted on the cummins forum. I got a 98 24 valve with the hard start problem and need some help. The parts store charged me 17 dollars for the 11 dollar relay. I didn't get a socket with it, is it ok to attach the wires directly to the relay or do I need a socket. Can I just trace the yellow white wire back from the lift pump and cut it and attach to the relay. I have looked at the schematic that moparman provided. I see that pin 86 goes to ground and 85 ties in with the brown starter wire, can I trace the wire from the starter up and tie in anywhere? The yellow white wire must be cut and connected to pin 30 and 87a. Sorry to ask some stupid questions but it cost a lot to take it and have somebody else fix it. These are hard times for the working man.Thanks for any help!
  18. On my 01 Dodge I had an original lift pump , which I replaced with a Fass pump, this means there is no in-tank fuel pump, correct? The reason Im asking is some people are sayingIi have one, but it cant be with having a lift pump. Thanks guys!!
  19. Ok guys...Here goes my first post. I have been a viewer for several years and greatly appreciate all of you that have shared your knowledge here. I just purchased the 2010 for my wife to drive and I have a question regarding the 2 cycle oil diet. I use it religously in my 2001 after replacing three VP44's and 2 lift pumps (I know, I am a little slow catching on ). But with all of the emissions stuff, I am unsure if it will help or hurt. We just retired and moved to Wyoming in November and are loving it. Just need to keep these two "children" happy and fed well. Thanks in advance...
  20. I'll have to check at the dealer in Canada to see if they have the heaters since we have Canadian warehouses that supply the dealers here. You might contact Mancini Racing in Detroit, www.manciniracing.com ? I think might be their website. From what I heard Chrysler is emptying some warehouses and Mancini had a bunch of that stuff for sale as they always have in the past for Chrysler. They have this pump on their site:http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/chucker54_2084_9531548 CARTER - 14-16 psi 100 gph Get the fuel flow you need. These universal rotary vane electric fuel pumps from Carter operate using leaded and unleaded gasoline, gasohol, and fuel boosters. They have an internal pressure regulating valve, and feature free-flow fuel delivery. These pumps have no points to burn out, and no shaft seals to leak or deteriorate. Easy to install, these universal fuel pumps come with a complete installation package and instructions. $122.95 CARP4601HP
  21. Well, here I am. !st. post for a newbie. Right off the bat, I apologize for any dumb questions that have probably been asked before. I have a 2001 I picked up a few months back from the original owner with 154,000 miles on it. I am told that it has had the lift pump replaced twice and the vp44 replaced once. The truck is all stock. It also had a dealer replaced trans at 127,000 miles as I have been told. I want to install an after market lift pump and stay as close to stock equipment as possible. After reading here and on the other forum I am thinking that the Raptor 100 in front of the stock fuel filter/fuel heater would be the way to go. I guess what I would like to know is about the relibility of this particular pump and or any pump that would allow me to keep the stock filter/heater. I will probably never hot rod this truck with any increase power mods. I would also like some suggestions as to a good quality (proven) fuel pressure gauge. Thank's for puttin up with a new guy, and thank's for your time and attention..........Hood Latch
  22. Ok gang! Going to make this as simple as possible. On another forum everyone is now believing that 5 psi is a good fuel pressure to run. This is being said by a supplier that sells VP pumps. Although the Dodge service manual says 10 psi is the minimum. I have recently had correspondence with Cummins on this topic and they say "10 psi is the minimum" for the engine. I want you all to know I run 17 psi and am HAPPY with this pressure. What do you feel is the proper pressure to run?
  23. i have a 2001 2500 --has no pwer,misses,surges under accelration and blows lots of white smoke . checked codes has po230 and po234- . also when looking at data screen on scan tool has no cmp rpm but tach works fine. can you help me thanksED
  24. Fuel Pressure Specification For Bosch VP44 Injection Pumps Here is a copy of the fuel system specifications from the Dodge Factory Service Manual. This is for your Dodge Cummins Turbo diesel truck with a Bosch VP44 injection pump. Fuel pressure Normal fuel pressure should float about 14-15 PSI running down the pavement. It should never fall below 10 PSI at all. Here is a colorize fuel pressure gauge to give you a clue of the fuel pressure span you want. You want the needle to stay in the green at all times. Yellow zone is a warning that you should check the fuel filter, lift pump performance, overflow valve, etc. This is undocumented maximum pressure is 20 PSI. Now take notice to the overflow valve is set for 14 PSI so excessive pumping of fuel does nothing for performance except create more heat in the fuel, which in turns reduces the cooling ability of the fuel and adds more stress to the lift pump. So a little extra fuel pressure is a good thing because it ensures the Bosch VP44 injection pump stays cooled and lubricated properly. However, excessive fuel pressure will heat the fuel and reduced the cooling ability of the fuel. Now always remember that the only lubrication the Bosch VP44 injection pump will see is the fuel itself so if you don't have enough fuel pressure it will cause damage to the Bosch VP44 injection pump. It's like the same as running the engine with low oil pressure it will continue to run, but the damage to the engine will occur. On the other hand, the Bosch VP44 injection pumps, which happen to be about $1,200 to replace. Pressure Drop The amount of fuel pressure drop between idle and wide-open throttle. 2-3 PSI drop from idle to WOT is normal. However, 5 PSI or more pressure drop from idle to WOT is pointing out a failed lift pump, plugged filter, and/or plumbing restrictions. 2-3 PSI Is Normal Dropping more than 5 PSI is pointing towards a failed lift pump, plugged filter, or restrictive plumbing. Just to show you the difference in the stock plumbing which is 6mm ID plumbing and most performance pumps come with 1/2" ID plumbing. These pictures will give you an idea... The first picture is a Big Line fitting over the top of the stock plumbing. Then the second picture compares the stock 6mm ID steel lines to a 1/2" ID Big Line hose. The best way to show this example of restrictions is to let's say your house is on fire. You know your garden hose has 80 PSI of pressure, but the garden hose is only 5/8" ID hose. Your wife calls 911 and gets the fire department coming in the meantime you keep fighting the fire with your little 5/8" garden hose and losing the battle. The fire department shows up and pulls a 2 1/2" hose off the truck and charges it at 80 PSI and now winning the battle. Your fire is put out! What is so different? No matter what the size of the fuel line will dictate how much volume can be pushed through the fuel line. Like the story above the water pressure was the same at 80 PSI, but the hose size jumped from 5/8" to 2 1/2" ID hose and the volume changes are the size of hose. So the same thing applies to the stock fuel system. The stock banjo bolts and 6mm ID pipes are just too restrictive and cannot supply enough volume of fuel for that Bosch VP44 injection pump demands. This why I highly suggest you go up to 1/2" ID plumbing. Reasons Why Fuel Pressure Is Critical Let's take a look at a Bosch VP44 injection pump. I've labeled the fuel lines supplying fuel and return line plus the overflow valve. Now I know there is a ton of rumors on the internet of all kinds of minimum pressures for a Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm going to say stick with the Dodge Factory Service Manual Specifications for fuel pressure. Now let's talk a bit more about the flow of the fuel. The lift pump supplies pressurized fuel to the Bosch VP44 injection pump the overflow valve regulates how much fuel pressure is held. Excessive fuel pressure is returned to the fuel tank. The picture below is of the bleed hole in the overflow valve this image was magnified x10 to show you how small the bleed hole really is. Give you an idea the size of the hole use a single strand of 14 AWG copper wire, and it will NOT fit the hole. The bleed hole is there solely for bleeding air out of the system which air will pass through this tiny hole rather easy but fuel will not. However, if you're looking for long life from a Bosch VP44 injection pump, I would personally suggest you adjust your minimum pressure to 14 PSI this will ensure the overflow valve remain open and a constant fuel flow through the Bosch VP44 injection pump and keep it cool all the time. Let me play out a simple scenario. Let's say my fuel pressure is roughly 10-11 PSI. I'm going to drive up into the back country approximately 40 miles with my Dodge Cummins towing an 8x8 utility trailer. Now the whole trip heading uphill into the mountain towing an empty trailer is going to be enough fuel flowing to the injectors to keep the Bosch VP44 injection pump happy. However, I've spent the day and loaded up with firewood and now coming back down the mountain loaded. I'm using my exhaust brake and coasting most of the way down taking it slow and easy. At this point, the injectors are no longer firing so the Bosch VP44 injection pump is not pumping fuel out to the injectors. Furthermore, the overflow valve closes at about 10-11 PSI so let's say it did close. Now where is the fuel going??? Nowhere! It is pooled up in the injection pump and gaining heat and being broke down. You've also removed the cooling and lubricating of the Bosch VP44 injection pump so now it actually taking on damage. To give you a feel for the fuel flow coming from the injection pump with an AirDog 150 at 17.5 PSI of fuel pressure, I've got a video to explain that quickly. I've heard rumors of some people trying to develop a cool down system for the Bosch VP44 Injection pump but after making the video above, there is just no way to cool down the injection pump using the lift pump of even the AirDog/FASS series. The whole problem is the restrictions inside the Bosch VP44 injection pump and the overflow valve as seen in the video above. So the only way to keep the Bosch VP44 injection pump cool is to keep fuel flowing through it at all times. So to keep the overflow valve open I suggest the 14 PSI minimum pressure. I'm currently at 136K miles on my Bosch VP44 injection pump and still going strong using a 16 PSI minimum pressure and an 18 PSI idle pressure. Here is a short video of stable fuel pressure from 55 MPH to 70 MPH at WOT. Here is another video done with idling, cruising, and WOT operation. Yes. I got a bit carried away and sloshed the fuel in the tank and sucked an air bubble and the pressure fell off. Cranking Pressure Test Here is a simple test on how to do the test for cranking fuel pressure. Pull the fuel pump relay in the PDC and then attempt to start the engine. Pay attention to the fuel pressure gauge during cranking. Be aware this test will trip a P1689 code and light the CHECK ENGINE light. Excessive cranking pressure can lead to difficult starting problems. Suggested Lift Pump Replacement You should replace the stock fuel system completely since it cannot supply enough fuel for even stock requirements without causing damage to the Bosch VP44 injection pump or adding stress to the lift pump. The pumps I suggest are proven and come with a lifetime warranty. These pumps come with a full kit and replace everything from the fuel tank to Bosch VP44 injection pump. AirDog 100, 150, or 165 Raptor 100 or 150 FASS 100 or 150 FASS DDRP (DDRP Ver.2 - 89 GPH) I don't suggest these pumps... Because they don't address the pump location, plumbing restrictions, or come with much of warranty. Stock Carter or Carter Campaign Pump (4090046) Holley Blue or Holley Black FASS DDRP (DDRP Ver.1 - 40 GPH) AirTex Mopar's Notes: That was true for the DDRP Ver.1 However, DDRP-02 is rated at 89 GPH and will hold pressure. It is listed as a Stock replacement pump designed to perform better than the Stock pump, but not for Chips that add fueling. I place a Power Puck on my truck with the DDRP-02 and saw no difference in FP at either idle or WOT, (PP is a timing chip doesn't change the amount of fuel). That said the PP is currently removed from my truck as I overpowered my clutch both loaded and unloaded, back to the stock clutch is fine. Looking for a Valair possible DD organic, or SD Kevlar/Ceramic. It is currently in the stock location and giving 15 psi at idle and 10 at WOT. Information Provided By: rhagfo http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/404412-fass-ddrp-02-a.html#post4197714 Additional Information (About Performance Crowds & Fuel Pressure) I've seen several times where people will link back to performance pump builders and quoting where they say, "(Un-named) proved that 5 PSI, under load, made all the horsepower the VP44 pump could make, even with stock fuel lines, fittings and supply pump." This might be true but there is nothing ever said about the life span of the pump at these conditions. So... Please do not follow these performance crowds into destroying a perfectly good Bosch VP44 injection pump. The fact still remains from Bosch the actual designer of the Bosch VP44 injection pump states that injection pump should return 70% of the fuel back to the fuel tank for cooling and lubrication purpose of the VP44. Being the only way a Bosch VP44 injection pump can do this is to have fuel pressure above 14 PSI to open the overflow valve. Then if the stock Bosch VP44 injection pump with an enhancement box say an Edge Comp on 5x5 can consume 15-20 GPH that means the stock 35 GPH pump cannot keep up with Bosch's design of 70% return volume. So this why products like AirDog, Raptor and FASS was created because they actually meet the demands of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Then another fact that Bosch will let you know of is that diaphragm damage occurs from operating the Bosch VP44 injection pump at low fuel pressures. Making matters worse is that no Bosch injection re-builder will void warranty a VP44 injection pump with diaphragm damage. Dead give away that you had a bad lift pump or low fuel pressure problems. Please view the Bosch VP44 exploded view page to see there is no diaphragm in the Revision 027 Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Then the other fact is right from the Dodge Factory Service Manual has the minimum fuel pressures (picture at the top of the page). It even states the pressure that the overflow valve requires to open. Refer to the Overflow Valve Testing from the Dodge Factory Service Manual and see that the overflow valve should remain closed at 10 PSI and open by 14 PSI. So if the overflow valve is close by 10 PSI, then you extra cooling and lubrication just disappeared. So ultimately it suggested having a fuel system of no less than 100 GPH supply that can maintain a minimum pressure of 14-15 PSI at WOT. This will great extend the life of the VP44 because it keeps the electronics cooler longer and keeps the rotating parts lubricated properly. So please people let the facts and information from the actual designers of the injection pump (Bosch) and engine (Cummins) provide you proper information for your fuel system for your engine. Don't be swayed by performance shops claim of high horse output with little fuel pressure. As I proved right here doesn't work for the longevity of the VP44 injection pump... Another thing to bring up there are people that are increasing fuel pressures above 20 PSI. Please don't do this. The return port leaving the VP44 pump isn't very big at all. The return port is on the left and supply is on the right. As you can see increasing fuel pressures above 20 PSI put you at risk for shaft seal failure. Increasing the pressure above 20 PSI isn't going to improve the return flow. I say stick with the 14-20 PSI pressure range for seal safety. Additional Information (About Maximum Flow Rates) Here are some calculated flow abilities of the stock fuel system vs. 1/2" big line kits. This is not calculating bend, turns, offices just straight flow for open end plumbing and this is a rough calculation. Pipe Size Gallon Per Hour Flow Rate Gallon Per Minute Flow Rate 6mm ID pipe 75 GPH @ 15 PSI 1.2 GPM @ 15 PSI 1/2" ID pipe 570 GPH @ 15 PSI 9.5 GPM @ 15 PSI Use The banjo bolt Shrader valve to test for fuel pressure, Item 3 in the above diagram. If you have a 98-99 truck the port might be on top of the fuel filter housing. You can see the 90* bend fitting coming out of the top of the fuel filter housing in the below picture. Install a Shrader valve and test from there. I'm hearing of tales of shops, mechanics, or dealers doing the old hook up the fuel pressure gauge and only checking fuel pressure at idle. This is wrong. Because I've seen lots of cases where fuel line restriction, fuel filter plugging, gelling fuel and other thing causing fuel pressure to drop out under load. Like this video from a friend of mine, you'll see he's got awesome fuel pressure at an idle (where most shops gave him the green light). However, what the shops did not test for is WOT at highway speed, and you'll see in the video, he can pull way down to 0 PSI. Anything under 14 PSI is a concern... Anything under 10 PSI is a serious problem. As for having a gauge in the cab all Dodge Cummins trucks should have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Because like you seen bench testing with an idle pressure is meaningless if you can't see the WOT pressure at highway speed.
  25. notlimah

    Lift pump pressure adjustment

    With today's electronic lift pumps from FASS and Airdog, TYPICALLY they do not come with a way to easily adjust fuel pressure. There are options out there but they are quite spendy and there's easier ways to accomplish the same thing. So for those who have pumps that do not have an external/adjustable regulator, your pump more than likely uses a spring and ball to regulate fuel pressure. Springs should be provided from the pump manufacturer to provide adequate pressures. Typically between 16-18psi. The pumps use a hard plastic ball, either a Buna or Viton ball. This will create a seal when the pump is off and keep fuel from "leaking" or "moving" in the lines once the pump is off. The springs can be inconsistent which can cause erratic fuel pressure readings or lower then expected readings. Using this diagram of a FASS system, if you remove the hose/fitting that is connected to the "air/vapor return to the tank" you will find a spring a ball, it will look like this. If your spring comes out looking like this... You were more then likely experiencing erratic fuel pressures. You could either straighten out the spring and reinstall or replace the spring all together. I only have experience with FASS but I called FASS support and they sent me a replacement. I imagine the same would happen with Airdog. The next factor in all this are the balls. In my research I've found that FASS uses a Buna ball and Airdog uses a Viton ball. I was having a mixed bag of issues, erratic fuel pressures and also lower then expected fuel pressures. Upon removing the spring and ball I found my spring had twisted (previous pic) and that the ball had indented into the spring. You can see the indentation here. I tried a couple replacement balls from FASS with the same results. I then went with a Viton ball and the problems haven't returned. The Viton ball is stronger material and seems to be holding up well. If you're still having lower pressure issues then you can put a washer in to shim the spring and raise pressure. The following measurements should get you in the ball park but make sure you double check you're not adding any additional restriction by using to small of an ID. Here are the measurements: OD - .631" ID - .320" thickness - .039" ***This washer/shim should be added between the fitting and the spring NOT between the spring and ball.*** So what helped fixed my issues was going with a Viton ball and a 17lb spring. This isn't meant to say one company is better then the other, just what I found out in my research and what fixed my problem. The point of this article is to help educate others on potential fixes. ***Additional notes*** List of parts I used Viton Ball HERE 17lb spring HERE I understand these are labeled as Airdog parts but they worked fine in my FASS 150. The Airdog fitting DID NOT work on my FASS pump so if you're looking to replace that on your FASS 150 you would need to contact FASS to get a replacement. Here's the difference FASS LEFT AIRDOG RIGHT Pretty noticeable difference in threads and overall length so if replacing these fittings they must be brand specific.
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