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Found 8 results

  1. Okay I've got something going on with my truck and I'm in need of ideas. My truck sounds different (more tinney rattle) in the top end, less power, less boost higher EGT's. I pulled the valve cover off and re-torqued everything. I was worried something vibrated loose. Everything was tight. I did start the truck while the valve cover was off, and I could hear what was I think was the injectors. Not sure what they are suppose to sound like? I haven't changed a thing with any settings in the Quad tuning. I'm running the edge tune, (I can post them if anyone wants to look them over). Only thing that I found was the set screw on the boost elbow backed out and was gone. I replaced it (screwed all the in) built a "boost tester" pressurized the system, zero boost leaks. I'll add the data logs, the one in green is from January, red one is from yesterday. Today I adjusted the valves ( they were a little loose), while running the truck after the valve lash adjustment I noticed the fuel pressure was running between 12-13 psi at idle. I put a mechanical gauge on it and I've got a crazy surging going on. It will stay at 12ish - psi for a second or two, then surge up to 22ish, then drop back to 12ish again(I'll try and add a short video). I did the bucket test on the fass 150 everything is flowing great no surge, Next, I put everything back except pulled the fuel line off the vp44 and ran it into the fuel tank via main fill hose (used the key bump flowed great). Last, I powered the pump with a constant power source independent of the trucks electrical system flowed great no surge. What I need ideals with is I think I have possible two problems aggravating each other. First is the loss of power, boost with higher EGT. I'm not sure on this one bc I haven't changed anything with the power out put in my tune. Just showed up along with the change in engine sound... Re-recap: boost test= no leaks, replaced the boost elbow set screw(I found it missing), adjusted valves, no blow by, waste gate functioning normal with compressed air test. Second is the fuel surging issue... It only seems to surge when the fuel lines are hooked up to the vp44. I'm wondering if there is a fuel return regulator or valve that's malfunctioning ? Re-cap: Fass 150 bucket test= no surge, in-tank pick up used to feed the fass 150 and pressure line flowing into tank fill = no surge, out side power source = no surge, all the lines back in the places they came from(pick-up, pressure, return) truck running with out side power source= surge, same as test before truck power source= surge Video file is to big, it won't let me upload it. I can email it to anyone that wants to take a look. Thanks guys any input or ideas will help!!
  2. Hello I’m wondering if you can help me out. I have a 2002 Dodge Cummins 24V. Cold start issue. I checked fuel pressure going into injection pump and I'm at 16psi. Wide open throttle it drops to 11psi. So all good there right. What the issue is at -10 celcius it won't start but if I plug in and leave over night it starts no problem. My intake heater is working as the intake elbow is really warm. So it's a cold thing. When I tried starting at -10c without being plugged in I cracked fuel lines at injectors and no fuel would come out. But... next day when I plugged in she started right up no issues. Seems like when the eng block is warm it seems to hold prime but when it's cold it doesn't. I read somewhere that possible low oil pressure could prevent the injection pump from sending fuel to injectors. Any ideas?
  3. I've owned my Dodge for over 4 years now, and have upgraded the lift pump, which is the raptor 100 gph on the side of the block, edge ez, 4 inch exhaust, and I believe it has at least 60hp injectors that were installed by the previous owner. I am at 400 rwhp now, tested at the hunting for horse power up in cda. My question that I am asking, why is my fuel pressure dropping down 5psi at WOT? I have spent many hours trying to find information on this, and its hard to get a definite answer. the Diesel mechanic I take my truck to says its normal, but I know its not, especially since my truck will start to stutter if I let off the pedal after stomping into it for to long( by no means do I drive the truck aggressive, I drive it like an old man, like my old man lol) I want to upgrade my fuel lines to half inch from the tank to the lift pump, including fittings. but when I look online, I'm only finding the big line kit from the filter to the injection pump. Any advice would be much appreciated. I'm not looking to start a proper fuel psi forum, as I know its been beat to death. 15 psi at idle, 5 psi at WOT- doesn't seem normal. I'm on my second raptor 100gph -----this is my first post, let me know if I'm doing anything wrong.
  4. My truck is a 2001. I have an older AirDog, and an ISSPRO electric fuel gauge. The issue I'm having is that when I first bump the ignition I get about 15-16psi of fuel pressure. Then running, or even if you let the pump shut off and then rebump the ignition, the fuel pressure goes up to 26psi. I really need to get my test gauge on it, but two different sending units and gauges have been put on it, and both read the same. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas of what I should check? Is it the AirDog, that's marked as being regulated at 15 psi, did I screw up with how I installed the gauge? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also, the AirDog was on before I pressure gauge was (I know shame on me....), so I do not know if this is a recent change or has always done it.
  5. Injector Disassembly, Cleaning & Inspection Cleanliness is very important, any dirt or debris that get inside the injector will wear on the tight tolerance parts. Injector Diagram: Torque Specs 15mm Nozzle Retaining Nut - 22 ftlb's 10mm Injector Bleed-off bolt - 6 ftlb's 24mm Injector Retaining Nut - 44 ftlb's Things we'll need. 19MM Open end wrench (For Pop Tester). 15MM Open end/box end wrench (For Injector Disassembly and Pop Tester). Torque Wrench with 15mm Deep Socket. Vice, Preferably Smooth Jaw. Lubrication Oil (I use 50% Diesel, 50% engine oil). Pen Magnet for Shim Removal. Small pick (I like a 5/64 hex key, it fits tight into the shim for easy removal). Adjustment Shims (For Adjusting Pop Pressure). Caliper (For measuring Shim packs for easier pressure adjustment). Pop Tester (For checking Pop Pressure) Fluid for Pop Tester (I use 95% Diesel, 5% 2-Stroke Oil) Clean the injectors thoroughly before disassembly. I Highly recommend you only work on one injector at a time to prevent mixing parts between them. Clamp Injector in the Vice. Do not Clamp onto the Injector Return Outlet Port. Use 15MM Wrench to loosen Nozzle Clamping Nut until Hand Tight. Remove the injector from the vise, put the injector close to your work bench before finish removal of the Nozzle Retaining Nut. This will prevent small parts from falling and disappearing. Disassemble the injector further, note the orientation of everything, it should come apart like this. Clean All Parts Thoroughly. Use Brake Cleaner/Carb Cleaner and Compressed Air to blow backwards through the Feed Passage in the Injector Body to clean the Edge Filter. Carefully remove the Needle from the Nozzle, if necessary use some pliers and carefully pull the needle out, make sure not to scratch the nozzle mating surface. If the needle still won't come out (very unlikely for a used nozzle in good shape) then reassemble the injector and install it into the injector Pop tester and use it to pop the needle loose. And then once again disassemble the injector and continue cleaning. Use Brake Cleaner/Carb Cleaner and Compressed air to clean out the nozzle, blowing into the needle hole, and the feed passage. Inspect the injector needle for wear or pitting at the tip. Here is a video showing a good and bad needle. If the injector needle is damaged, both it and the nozzle must be replaced. If this is the case, it is highly recommended that you replace the whole set. Once clean, use your lubricating oil and put a couple drops on the injector needle before inserting it into the nozzle. Make sure to lube both the needle tip, and the largest diameter portion of the needle. Well used nozzles aren't picky about the type of oil, you could even get away with straight engine oil. However new nozzle have much tighter clearances so are very picky about oil thickness, Use a maximum of 50% oil and 50% diesel. To thick will warrant inaccurate readings with the Pop Tester. If the injector isn't working correctly on the Pop Tester, Disassemble the injector, clean the nozzle thoroughly, and make sure you're using a thin enough lubricating oil. Once done, insert the Needle back into the Nozzle. Back to the injector body. Install all the shims back into the hole, if you are installing extra shims to raise the Pop Pressure, install them under the main thick shim. As a general rule, .01mm of shim will raise the pop pressure 1.5-2 Bar. Once the shims are in place, insert the spring, if the spring does not sit approximately flush with the injector body, the shims are not seated correctly. Carefully use the spring as a ram-rod to seat the springs. Here is the shims and spring inserted correctly. Then install the spring seat, note the orientation. Now install the Valve Stop Plate. Once again, note the orientation, the conical side should face the injector body. When installing, make sure to line up the Feed passages. Once installed Dribble a little Lubricating Oil onto the Valve Stop Plate, This will lube many key things, most importantly the injector body threads. Also dribble some oil into the Injector Nozzle Nut, this will again lube the threads, as well as where it seats against the nozzle. Once done, install the nozzle, again make sure to line up the Feed Passage. Install the nozzle, then the nut. Tighten the nut until you start to feel spring tension, then back it off a turn or two. Grab the nozzle tip with your fingers and pull up and down on it, there should be play, if not, loosen the Nozzle retaining nut further until there is some play. Then try and spin the nozzle tip, while pulling in and out. The nozzle should not spin. If it does then you do not have the aligning dowels in incorrectly. Disassemble and re-check your work. if the nozzle does not spin, everything is good to go and you can tighten the Nozzle retaining nut down to 22 ftlb's. If you are changing the pop pressure, or installing new nozzles, it is highly recommended that you Pop test the injectors once down. This will let you know if you should shim the injectors, or if some nozzles aren't spraying correctly. I highly recommend you do your pop testing outdoors, or in a very well ventilated area (Due to the fact that it was raining, I had to take these pictures indoors). Good spray pattern: 5x.010 VCO @ 280 Bar 7x.0105 SAC @ 320 Bar 7x.0105 SAC @ 260 Bar 5x.013 SAC @ 260 Bar 7x.0105 SAC With Bad Spray pattern, it may look like it's just injecting less fuel, but it's actually the same amount.
  6. Recently my oil factory gauge drops to zero, and the check gauges comes on and the warning buzzer goes off. This can happen 3x in 1/4 mile or once in 30 miles. Checked for codes, checked oil level, recent oil change about 1500 miles ago. I am thinking it is the oil pressure sender going bad. Just wondering if there is something I am missing. Did a search on the site and can't find anything on the oil pressure sender. I have been thinking about a 4th gauge on the pillar. This might be a good time for an oil pressure gauge! Any comments are appreciated.
  7. Just got Draw Straw 5 from Vulcan to help with 1/4 tank sucking air problem. I got an upgraded in tank fuel pump module. This kit replaces in tank pump with clip in aluminum fitting and flex hose to top of sending unit. Then it says to replenish fuel back to module I need to use factory outlet (that's not used anyway) as return a quick connect that is 3/8 and new fitting is 3/8 to 1/2 barb. Before I did this my return was going to filler neck. So now that I got it all plumed according to instructions my fuel pressure went up to 22 where before it was 19. The only thing I can think of is restriction in return going from air dog to module, the actual hole in module is just over 1/4 where before it was just dumping it in filler neck with no restriction. Anybody had this problem ? and what did you ended up doing? If I return fuel to filler neck it will defeat the purpose of doing this kit, as Air Dog will suck module dry. While doing this I found return line from vp and injectors kinked off, just 8" down from quick connect on module. It was bent to about 45 degree angle. previous owner must off took fuel tank out to put in draw straw that came with air dog and when putting tank in pinched off return line. So I don't think there was much fuel if any returning for a while now. What problems would this cause? Any opinion is appreciated. Also does anybody upsize return lines and fittings from vp and injectors?
  8. I just installed my gauge according to genos garage instructions using there universal fuel hose not much drive time yet but every thing seams to be working good i have 14 lbs pressure at idle 11 pounds cruising and 9 pounds wot.As of yet guage reading is steady no eratic movement.
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