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backcountrymountains last won the day on June 24

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  1. Thanks to all that posted suggestions here. I'm definitely someone that is inclined to follow the manufacturer recommendations. I figure they're smarter than me and have knowledge behind their engineering decisions. Obviously HP and torque can be bumped up quite a bit, but I'm always concerned about how that will effect reliability. I'd really like to know why the manufacturer didn't just increase the air and fuel to the engine to bump the specs. I'd think more power would lead to more sales. Anyway, I'm leaning toward RV275s because they are a manufacturer approved option for the engine which seems safe. My question is how do I know that I'm getting the right fuel/air mix to the engine? The RV275 delivers more fuel, but does the ecm add more boost/air to burn that fuel? Do I need to adjust it? What data do I use to do that? Look at EGTs and smoke out the tailpipe? @NIsaacs, @Me78569, @dripley I'm definitely interested in the Quad, but I'm not sure I want to mess with how the engine works. Obviously people have done some damn impressive upgrades to performance, but I'd definitely trade reliability for performance. I might just check out the Quad programmer info to see how it all works and what all it changes. $675 is a bit of cash for me but if I'm spending on a tuner it seems like the one with the most options. It would be sweet to do unlimited upgrades but the cost seems to rapidly spiral as well. Injectors: $400 Quad: $675 Clutch to hold INTENSE TORQUE: $800+ Turbo to feed the BEAST: $1000 Headstuds to contain the BEAST: $450 Maybe someday. Side question: If the Quad can control fueling and air, can't it increase HP/torque without swapping injectors? Is it just a timing thing where it isn't possible to get enough fuel in at the right time with smaller injectors? Thanks guys. P.S. @IBMobile 4.10 will pull anything, right? What does the mystery switch do?
  2. Thanks for the info. Is there any reason to get new injector bodies vs reman? Has anyone just kept the bodies and replaced the nozzles? @Mopar1973Man, did you have any issues with your clutch after using the Quad or upgraded injectors? I'm not super excited about doing a clutch upgrade. Thanks
  3. Thanks for the info. I'm only at 5000' up north of Denver. Questions I forgot: Who has a decent price on all of this? Do some vendors have better injectors than others? Anybody currently running this kind of upgrade on a stock clutch? Thanks
  4. I get both sides of this. Respect for private property is a cornerstone of the country but public lands are one of the best things the government ever did for the people. Every now and then I just think about how much better things would be if some people weren't total pieces of sh*t. Ask to use land responsibly, do so, and have no standing to sue for stupid sh*t. There's plenty for all, but small groups of sh*tbirds really ruin it for decent people. That's on both sides of the issue, too. Billionaires blocking access to public lands is as bad as turds destroying private lands.
  5. I've got a new to me 2000 2500 2WD Regular cab with NV4500 transmission and I believe the HX turbo (rubber wastegate tube). 190k miles and no idea how many miles on or even what injectors it has. I'm looking into upgrades to improve towing performance with a 14000lb trailer (20k GVW). I'm not looking to have huge HP or Torque, just to have a decently powerful, reliable and efficient rig. I definitely don't want to upgrade stuff and push it beyond its limits. I don't currently have a EGT sensor. I know I need one. I've already put on the GDP mechanical fuel pump so hopefully I won't have to worry about the VP44 dying for lack of pressure. Running 2 stroke with every fill-up. I live in Colorado and have a 35% opacity limit on smoke coming out my tailpipe. From what I've read I should just do what MoparMan himself has done and get 7 x 0.10 injectors and a Quad V2. I'm concerned about emissions if I have to remove the Quad to get it tested. I'd rather not tap the VP44. SAC or VCO? How bad is the smoke on 7 x .10s without the Quad? If I clamp the waste gate (and maybe use a boost fooler) will that solve smoke issues of running without the Quad for opacity inspection? Do I definitely have to upgrade the clutch? Do I definitely have to get ARP headstuds installed? Can I put in headstuds without a new head gasket? How well do RV275s work for towing without a chip? Would I still have to upgrade the clutch? Do RV275s need a boost elbow and fooler to get enough air? Anybody do a death wobble steering stabilizer mod? The articles section is great on this site but it sure would be cool if there was a "list of stuff that works together" page that collated some of the great info floating around in the forums. Thanks for the help, Justin
  6. Thanks for all of the advice, called Richard from Glacier Diesel and he said as long as I can't hear the pump in the tank it's probably good to go. He said the in-tank pump doesn't allow for fuel to flow if it isn't pumping (he had a term for the type of valve on it, plug-seal or something) so if I had a dead in-tank no fuel would flow when with the stock. Anyway, looks like converting to mechanical will work out. Thanks again, I'll be back with more questions and maybe some pics of my installation process.
  7. I can hear the stock Carter pump but nothing from the in-tank fuel module. This could just mean that it's dead. No idea. Didn't Dodge take out the stock pump and replace it with an aluminum block when they went to the in-tank module? That's what seems weird to me, that I would have both. I'm just going to have to pop the bed and pull it to make sure of what I have. I'm excited. I read that I might have to take the bumper off because it's a long bed. I took some pictures of the fuel module, but it's covered in dust and I can't get at it to clean it. It doesn't have a waffle top section like I've seen on the 01-02 modules and the black stub seems to be in a different area. I can't figure out why it would have 4 wires though.
  8. I totally agree that I need to figure out exactly what I have. The only problem is I have a full tank of fuel and I'm not sure I can drop the tank or lift the full-size bed. Does anyone have pictures of the different versions of fuel modules (pump vs no pump)? How noisy is the in-tank pump? shouldn't I be able to hear it if I bump the starter? I'll take some pics of the top of the in-tank module so maybe someone can identify it. @Me78569 I totally agree with your signature quote.
  9. First time posting. Just got a 2000 2500 2wd to tow a tiny house. Decided to get a Fuel Boss and hopefully not worry about fuel supply issues and trashing a VP44. The thing is bone stock (as far as I can tell) without gauges (I know I need to get them). I checked the engine bay and there is definitely a carter lift pump behind and below the stock fuel filter. It's plugged in to the harness and the fuel like is hooked up to the filter, but I haven't bumped the starter to see if it runs. I ordered a fuel boss thinking the install would be straightforward with the stock lift pump. Then I checked the tank. It really looks like it has an in tank pump: 4 wire harness, inlet, outlet, and vent. What the heck?!?!? Is it possible to have an in tank and stock pump? Isn't that too much current for the ECM? Is it possible to suction fuel through the in-tank pump to the fuel boss? Do I have to put in a draw straw? Saw this video: Fuel tank module upgrade from Throroughbred and they showed how to just cut out the in-tank pump and add an extension to the stock straw instead of installing an aftermarket straw. Any reason that wouldn't work? I'm not looking to add HP or anything, I just want a reliable fuel delivery system. Thanks, Justin
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