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Hi, I want install Isspro pyrometer gauge. Lots of well meant advise on YouTube etc., with some contradiction. Questions I have concerning probe placement are: 1) Which is it, the left or right side of the collector, and where? Halfway up, the middle, or top. 2) Do I Drill and Tap in place, or remove Turbo first. Despite the Dollar Store magnet cleanings I’ve watched, doing it in place has me looking up the cost of a replacement Turbo. Of course, removing the Turbo first will have its own challenges given age of fasteners. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks Leaky

Hi, I'm trying to select the correct range of gauge to monitor my 47RE with a 5" aftermarket pan. Choices are: 100 - 280 or 140 - 320 Any suggestions please? Thanks. Leaky

Man, I need a break... this morning, went out to get ready for work.. start truck for warm up. Leave about 10 min later. About 4 miles from house, look down at gauges and no oil pressure, turn around, go back to house. Check oil, ok, it was a little low (Qt & 1/2) but not enough to show no pressure. It didn't knock or run any different than normal. So I check the gauges out ( key off, push and hold trip odom. button, turn key to on) Everything checks out ok. So I figure its the oil pres. sending switch. Call Autozone... $197 bucks. No way i'm paying that, can get a aftermarket for $100. So, I drove it today, no problems: water temp ok, no engine nock, the check gauges light did come on, of course.Question is, anyone else had this problem, and what did you do to fix, or what should I check?Also, a few weeks ago, running north on I-35W towards Ft. Worth, happen to look down, and Tach shows nothing. About a mile or so, it comes back up. Only time it happened. A few days later, it happened again. Engine didn't sputter, ran fine, tach just crazy or what. Any thoughts?

Hello All I have a Scangauge. I am wondering how accurate the boost reading is compared to a mechanical gauge. .....edit.... Ok, I just had another thought......So let me backtrack a bit.....I just bought a PowerPuck and an Quadzilla boost fooler (it plugs inline with the MAP sensor). I also just made a adjustable boost elbow and I do NOT have a mechanical boost gauge. At this point I have been watching my boost pressure via my ScanGauge. As my truck is unmodified the need to watch it at this point is for curiosity and MPG reasons only. I am planning on installing the newer goods today/this weekend, but I am now wondering if the Quadzilla boost fooler will alter my ScanGauge boost reading? Thoughts?? Thanks. Ken --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?oqlhf0

Hey guys i have noticed this odd fluctation the last two days with my fuel pressure. What I am seeing is my pressure go from 16-18 psi then it usually starts to fall off when i am slowing down to stop, i will see anywhere from 2 to 5 to 7 to 10 psi with absoutely no engine indication that this is actually happening!!! (i think maybe false indication???) my fuel pressure has always been very steady until last night and today. :banghead:

New owner & still getting accustomed to my truck ('99 3500). I was reading another thread here in the 24v powertrain forum & the poster mentioned the check gauges notification coming on in his cluster, as if that was an indication of a problem. I noticed this notification on my truck; it will temporarily illuminate immediately after start-up (all gauges indicate normal), and will go out after about 5 seconds or so. I figured this was normal operation but after reading about all the troubles the other fellow was having I now wonder if it is. Is there anything I should be following up with? Appreciate your patience & help, Joe in St Louis

If you are looking for gauges for your Dodge Cummins truck, you need to decide what type that you want. Do you want mechanical or electronic. Both have their good and bad points. You are the one who needs to decide as to what type of gauges that you want. You can ask for opinions as to who likes theirs the best, yet you are the one purchasing the gauge set. The necessary gauges needed for a stock truck are: Fuel Pressure, EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), Boost, and for Automatic Transmission owners, Trans. Temp. FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE A gauge that goes from 0 – 30 psi will do fine. Is using an electronic gauge, you need either a snubber hose and or a needle valve. The snubber hose is just a grease gun extension to move the sender away from the vibrations of the engine, make sure that there is a 90* bend in the hose to help alleviate the ‘water hammer’ effect of the IP. A needle valve from NAPA, part number WH6820, will do, also with the needle valve you can shut off the diesel from coming into the cab. You will also need a tapped banjo bolt to attach to the post fuel filter for fuel pressure. You will also need a 1/8” – 27 pipe union. With an electronic gauge there is no diesel fuel in the cab. With a mechanical gauge, there is the possibility of fuel being introduced into the cab. Also, with the mechanical gauges, there are isolators that are filled with antifreeze to keep diesel away from the cab. Parts list: Fuel pressure gauge, mechanical or electronic, complete kit Snubber hose, grease gun hose. 1/8” – 27 pipe union, preferably brass, steel will work. Teflon tape Tapped banjo bolt Needle valve, NAPA part number WH6820 Multiple cable/zip ties EGT GAUGE A digital gauge will give you an almost instantaneous readout of the temperature, and a mechanical gauge will be a little slower. To put the probe into the exhaust manifold, mark the manifold into quarters, drill in the back 1/4 of the manifold. This will put the probe in the back cylinders, as these are the ones that generally run hotter. When tapping the exhaust manifold, go into the manifold about 4 threads on the tap, then take the tap out and check to see if you get a good seat for the probe. The reason that you do this is to prevent a blowout of the probe as the NPT threads are slightly angled to get a seal. When drilling and tapping, you can use multiple methods of cleaning out the shavings, you can use a shop vacuum while drilling and tapping, or use grease on the bit and tap to catch the shavings, changing the grease multiple times. When done drilling and tapping, use a magnet to get as much of the filings out of the manifold as possible, then you can start up the truck and blow the rest out the exhaust through the turbo. Another method is taking the exhaust manifold off the truck and drilling/tapping on a bench. Parts List: EGT gauge, mechanical or electronic, complete kit Appropriate drills and taps, per kit Multiple cable/zip ties BOOST GAUGE You can either tap the intake horn, or use a boost bolt. For tapping the intake horn, you need to take the horn off so that no shavings get into to engine. Using a boost bolt, you just replace one of the bolts holding on the intake manifold cover. The boost bolt is tapped inside so that you can easily place the sender. Be careful about over tightening the boost bolt as it is very thin metal. Parts List: Electronic or Mechanical gauge, complete kit Boost Bolt or drill and tapping supplies Teflon Tape Multiple cable/zip ties Possibly need a 2” 1/8” – 27 nipple and union to raise the sensor up to tighten TRANS TEMP GAUGE Depending you your transmission, and if you have put a different pan on, is where you will be able to put the sensor. When doing this, it would be appropriate to change you ATF and filter, and also possibly putting in a better valve body. Parts List: Electronic or Mechanical gauge, complete kit Appropriate drill/tapping supplies Teflon tape Multiple cable/zip ties Now, for the fuel pressure gauge on VP-44 trucks, you need to keep you lift pump pressure above 10 psi, most try to keep it above 14 psi at idle. By doing so, you are attempting to lengthen the life of the VP-44 injection pump. If you see a pressure of 10 psi or less, you need to replace the lift pump. There are many manufacturers of lift pumps available to choose from; i.e. Raptor, AirDog, FASS, etc. Be careful about purchasing any lift pump that mount to the block, as the vibrations from the engine are harmful. The EGT gauge lets you see how hard you are working your engine. The higher the temperature, the more fuel you are using. When you are working the engine, you need to keep in mind that aluminum melts at about 1250*. This means that you can have an EGT of 1250* for short periods of time, less than 30 seconds, before damage may begin. When you get up to these temperatures, it is better to downshift and bring the RPMs of the engine up in order to dissipate the heat from the engine before any damage occurs. For the Boost gauge, a stock truck may produce up to 20 lbs of boost. When you start getting higher than this, you need to have some type of fooler on the vehicle in order to not throw any DTC error codes. For the transmission temperature gauge, cooler is better. What I mean by this is that a transmission that runs at 150* will last longer than one run at 220*, because heat reduces the longevity of the internal components. When hooking up the power inside the truck, use a test light to see if you can find an ignition controlled fuse, either in the inside fuse panel or under the hood, same with constant power, try not to come straight from the battery. For the gauge illumination lights controlled by the headlight switch, this may be tough for the test light may be dim in direct sunlight and you may not be able to see it illuminate, and look in the interior fuse panel for this. If you use the interior fuse panel, get some add-a-fuses to make the job easier. For some vehicles, you may have to tap into the headlight wiring harness under the dash. When I mounted my gauges, I used a separate fuse block to run constant power, ignition, and headlight power to. This way I only had to run one wire from each to the new block, and fused them accordingly. When finding a ground for everything, find a likely spot and use a self tapping screw to hold the ground wires down. Depending on where you mount the gauges, be it on the A pillar, a gauge cluster on the dash, or elsewhere, please take into consideration that you may need to lengthen the wiring accordingly. Be ready to use either solderless connectors or soldered connectors for the ends of the wires. Also, you can also use heat shrink tubing to control the wires and make them easier to run/place. More information to be posted.

Figured I would give everyone a guide for a 12V that is perfectly powered and efficient and reliable. I am thinking this will get you to around 350-400HP with controllable EGT's. This will give you a truck that doesn't smoke a ton and is very efficient. The catch is that I am not sure if this will work for everyone. My truck has the stock lift pump and I am not sure it is flowing like it used to, though I got a new overflow and it holds at the right pressure so I am thinking it is fine, but it doesn't smoke like it used to. This guide is for someone to try it and see if it actually clears up the smoke, drops the EGT's, and has efficient power, as mine improved little by little as I did each mod. I just want to be sure I'm not delusional Step 1: Get a BHAF. This will improve flow and make the filter media last longer since there is more surface area to get dirty. Step 2: Get a 4" or bigger exhaust either straight piped or with a see-through muffler. Again, this improves flow. Step 3: Get a pyrometer and boost gauge if you haven't already, otherwise you are asking for trouble. Step 4: Set your valves at 0.008" intake and 0.015" exhaust. Only do this if you know exactly how to do it, as this is a tight tolerance and is the minimum setting on exhaust so if you screw it up a lot, you might end up having a valve open the whole time. Typically valves loosen, so if you get it set perfect, you shouldn't ever have a problem. The minimum settings are what they are because valves expand as they heat up so this accounts for expansion. This should make the HX35 spool up better than an HY (after we do AFC mods). Step 5: Get a boost elbow and set it to max out at 35psi (though you will probably max out there with the wastegate stock). This might be a problem as I use something that keeps the wastegate completely shut until 35psi, so I get to 35psi much earlier, but try the elbow anyways as it might work just as well. Step 6: Get a 400HP clutch (or better). If you don't, you might as well stop here. If you have an automatic, get it built up or something (I don't know anything about the auto's but I know the stock one's don't hold up). Step 7: Take the AFC arm out of the AFC housing, taking the AFC out of the picture (since the arm is out of the picture). This will leave the fueling up to your foot, which is nice. Step 8: Take the fuel plate out. Again this leaves fueling up to your foot but also provides max fueling. I would like to have someone with a 215HP 12V do this setup and see what happens. They should have only a haze or slight amount of smoke (after the turbo lights) and the EGT's should be much harder to get over 1200F. The turbo should light extremely quick as well. There are some other things I did that might have made a difference as well but I don't know if anyone would go that far: [*]Remove the Fan [*]Remove the Fan Shroud (this means doing something with the overflow and wiper fluid) I think taking the shroud off allowed the air to free flow through the intercooler more since it isn't running into the shroud on the sides, giving lower IAT temps under high boost conditions (when your getting near 1200F). Here is the part you must know and is key to success. With no AFC and no fuel plate, flooring it means max fuel at any point in time with or without turbo boost. This means you can get a ton of smoke down low before boost is built if you happen to step on it. You must get a feel for the pedal. The rack inside the pump only moves a fraction of what the pedal does. If you get in the truck, turn the key on, bump the starter (don't start it, bumping it engages the shutoff solenoid), and push down on the pedal easily until it gets hard to push (should only go down an inch, maybe less), that is actually full rack travel because the governor flyweights are not fighting you since they are not spinning. You can feel that in the pedal when you step on it, if you can just ride slightly behind that hard spot, it will move dynamically with engine RPM until it is to the floor (3000 RPM). The 215HP pump retards timing (none of the other pumps do) when the rack is all the way in because it has to jam more fuel in to get the higher HP rating. It is 4* retarded IIRC. To keep the engine efficient, you don't want it to be retarded, you want to keep the rack slightly behind that full rack spot so that it isn't retarding timing. If you put it to the floor and then do this method, you will see that the truck is faster when you ride slightly behind the rack. Fuel plates do this for you to an extent but not nearly as good as your foot is capable of doing. There is a reason 24V guys have many different levels. You can adjust your plate constantly, or you can take it out and adjust your foot constantly. After a few weeks (give or take), you will be a pro at it and be able to dynamically control fueling better than any chip can even dream of doing. It will become 2nd nature. You will know when it is going to smoke, when the turbo is going to light, everything and have 100% control over it, not riding some AFC or fuel plate that might not be the power you were wanting for that particular instant. This takes some tedious footwork but is really not that hard. I had one of the two springs fall off the throttle and I can press the pedal to the floor with my pinky. I had to readjust my footwork but after 2 days it was back to being 2nd nature and it's kinda nice not having to press hardly at all. If anyone wants to try this, do everything I said (cept the optional stuff) as they all add up to success, then let me know your results.

Hey guys Where can I buy just the boost adapter and tubing for a gauge ? Also maybe a 'tee' for it ?? In case I wanna run a gauge later (its for my MWI setup 1st) . sizes ?? and is it better too hook up like http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/iat-sensor/iat-sensor.htm next to MAP or with boost bolt like http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-BSTBLT.asp thx

getting ready to update fuel lift pump .....probly a raptor..was going to put in a fuel press gauge and noticed the elec I was looking at is bout 30 dollars more.....any thoughts on which one to go with and why...was looking at isspro....I imagine the electric is a little less of a pain to install...is it as accurate?...

Has anybody had issues adjusting the pressure on the airdog2/165, the instructions say 2 turns clockwise equals 15-16 psi, but my gauge says 26 psi. Trying to reduce pressure but if i go all the way counterclockwise on the airdog i only get 21 psi. Is the air dog wrong or the gauge?

today, i was going to install my thermocouple at the exhaust manifold, and drilled a hole and found out that theres a wall inside the manifold right under the center where it connects to the turbo. i tapped it but im not sure if i will get an accurate reading. Has any body had this problem? looks like the place i picked to drill the hole has a wall inside the manifold and the hole passed just next to the wall.

I've been looking at the Isspro gauges and want to make sure before I make my purchase. I am just curious if anyone knows if the EVII gauges will work without the peformax ECM? Thanks

I found my thread tap, but what size drill bit. For pircol gauges.

Well I have been saving up for gauges and I am almost there. However, I wanted to see what others are running. I am leaning towards Auto Meter "Factory Match" with the dashboard mount so that I don't lose the grab handle. The three I am looking at are rail pressure, tranny temp, and egt'sFeel free to put in your 2 cents!Thanks

Well I finally got my truck back together, an 02 model dually, i ended up just putting a 1997 12 valve motor in it and another used nv5600 tranny. i got really close to going with the c series 8.3 liter cummins, lifted the body up with spacers and mocked it in but decided it was just too big to be drivin around with. i recently bought an 05 model one ton 4x4 with a blown up motor, and I am going to put a 12 valve motor in it or figure out how to p-pump a common rail motor, that would be unique. anybody know or hear of anybody that has put a 12 valve in an 03+ truck? or if you have any knowledge of how the gauges work in an 03+ that would be helpful. I dont see a pcm anywhere, is the whole thing run by the ECM?

Well, joined the forum back in Nov... had been working on plotting out our tune up/ preventative & maintenance plans and before we got anywhere within driving the truck an additional 500 miles at most we have MAJOR ISSUES... needless to say we have have the truck parked in the driveway since we put new tires on it at the end of November, we have had to start it a few times to move it for snow removal and driveway access issues... So here goes the saga of problems... this fall we noticed that we were having issues with the truck shifting around 45 mph... after much reading on this forum, I do believe that it probably is the same torque lock/ converter issue that many have been having. So, I had been calling around to different auto part stores to research alternators as a place to start... My husband also informed me that I was not the only one who had replaced the batteries in the truck in the last year or so (It would have been nice if he would have told me that a little sooner, since I am the more mechanical of us)... We had also been fighting with the 4wd for about a year... The mechanic that we were using supposedly replaced some of the parts but I do not know which ones bc he did not record it in the system and we had issues with the other work that he said he had done at the time but upon closer inspection did not do. My brother and I traced all the vacuum lines and made sure none of them were dirty/clogged/ disconnected etc.. one or two of them were dislodged/ loose so we cleaned them made sure they weren't clogged and reattached them . We also checked the diaphragm and it seemed to move in/ out easily as well... but we did not have time to get any further in diagnosing, before many more issues started to arise... My husband had a training seminar in Denver and we knew we needed new tires so we were able to combine the trip, I didn't have time before he left to change the oil so he insisted on going to a grease monkey as well while he was down there... then literally as my husband was driving home from Denver which is about an 1 hr 30 min drive up a mountain pass; a slue of other issues started... Unfortunately I wasn't in the truck at the time and my husband is not the best at paying attention to subtle vehicle noise/ performance differences. TO all the guys out there, I love my husband very much and in no way am I trying to "dis" him, we have just been together long enough that we both recognize each others strengths and weaknesses... so back to the drive back home per my husband's account; he called me and says "Sarah I think something is wrong with the truck, if I accelerate past about 60 the vehicle will not shift, just revs highier and higher and I have never seen the rpm gauge go so high..." My reaction was, well SLOW DOWN, if it;'s not shifting it's not going to just because u give it more fuel and rev the engine. Secondly, I asked him to check the temp gauge (unfortunately, we have not installed additional gauges that I had already ordered.. so we still just have stock) and make sure that he didn't need to pull over... he responded with well I am not sure what it's normally at but it doesn't seem unusually high. Well, how about the other gears? It was sluggish to get started, even when it was warmed up... So, when he got home we parked the truck and the next day I took it out to drive it to see if I could get a better feel for what was going on. First off, the truck wouldn't start... it had been cold that night probably around -10, but the truck block heater was plugged in and when I went to drive it the temp had already warmed up to around 30... when it gets that cold I have found that the truck will usually start easier if I turn the key and wait for the "wait to start" light to turn off two or three times before actually cranking the engine. However, even with this technique (which I realize is a red flag in itself) the truck would click click click try to turn over and just wouldn't go... so I got out the trust battery charger and usually if I just put it on high for less than 5 mins the truck will start right away... no such luck... so I left the charger on for about 30 mins before it would start (when it did there was quite a bit of smoke, although I don;t remember if it was black or white). Once started, the truck idle was very slow (even more than usual) so instead of going inside, I sat in the cab and rev'ed the engine for the concern of gumming etc. It took about 5 mins before I felt comfortable to let the truck sit and run while I wasn't watching it... I let it run for about 10-15 mins before I got in for the test drive. I immediately noticed that when backing up that the truck was acting very sluggish...we live right on main st in our town which is actually a HWY, so we have quite a bit of traffic and pulling out you have to be careful and quick... Which is why I panicked when I shifted into D, hit the accelerator and the truck acted like I merely let off the brake and barely pressed the accelerator, when in reality I nearly floored it. luckily we have a second lane & parking shoulder that starts at our driveway and goes through town, so I was able to creep into it... about 2 blocks of creeping with medium pressure on the accelerator the truck seemed to kick into gear and started to accelerate more normally between about 20-55mph then I did notice that once I reached 60mph I could understand what my husband was experiencing the day prior. After driving just to the next lil town which is 1.5 miles away and back I parked the truck... called our friend that is a mechanic and just started working at the garage literally across the street from our house and started reading... Our mechanic friend said he would help us out after work at the garage (so awesome to have access to the lifts & tools)... but before we could look at the truck our other vehicle decided to have a few issues that we needed to address first (so we would have a vehicle to use), we were able to plug in the code reader and at first no codes were coming up... then we had one or two codes pop up but when he looked them up there were a slue of possibilities and I lost my notebook where I wrote them down, ugg... i blame the chaos on the holidays... We decided that a good place to start would be to change the trans solenoids, replace trans filter w/ seal kit, flush trans and new fluid. Which we were planning on doing tomorrow... in preparation for finally tackling this truck I have been reading, researching and pricing a plan of action this week. Yesterday I did order a TIMBO apps, since it was something that I was thinking about anyway... but I am just getting a little overwhelmed with what parts to address especially with the current issues that I think are somewhat inner related and I fear we will have more issues as I have read through the forum bc we have had above average luck with not needing many of the issues that people have had with this truck at much lower mileages we are at about 203k... So, I need some advice... Gauges- I want basic mechanical gauges in a pillar (EGT, fuel pressure w/ low pressure light, trans temp)... I tried to order some in NOV but had problems finding a matching set, that was reasonably priced but had good reviews (quality). It shouldn't be that difficult... so if anyone has bought them recently and has a source suggestion, please let me know! AirDog II- What do I need to order in addition to the Airdog II to install on truck? Our truck specs are on signature.. Fuel Pump- Raptor: Which model? the factory replacement (FRRP)? RP-100 or RP-150? From what I have been reading and knowing that we use the truck to tow our tool trailer & our flat bed trailer, as well as hauling all sorts of other stuff up and down mountain dirt roads, I was thinking that it would be a better idea to install the RP-100 and take the time to mount it rather than just doing the factory replacement. Any Thoughts? Automatic Transmission: What do you recommend to do while we are in there replacing the solenoids, flushing, replacing filter & kit, new fluid... adjusting bands... WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF THE TRANS/ fix issues? Or should I be considering a total rebuild or new one? (I am hoping that I can prolong the current one so I can budget some other stuff first)- If we do replace, I think we may convert to a manual trans set up.... Sorry this is SUCH A NOVEL, I just thought I would give as much detail as possible since I am out of my comfort zone... THANK you in advance for any help/ suggestions you can provide! At this point we need 2wd to work before 4wd!!

So I finally ordered and installed my gauges. I got Isspro EV2 Black Face gauges, 0-30psi Fuel Pressure, 0-1600* Pyro, 0-100psi Boost. Installed and working minus the fuel pressure gauge. I just got the last piece of that puzzle so tomorrow that will be totally functional. After I grew the cahoneys to drill a hole in my exhaust manifold it was cake work. I spent a lot of time running my wires to keep them clean looking and safe. Spent a lot of time cutting and fitting my stock a-pillar cover to get the gauge pod to fit nice and flush and as close to factory as possible. I hate when people do sloppy installs. But they look great!Pics to come soon!!

I have all my gauges and comp ran through the hole that the clutch rod goes through so im gonna have to change them out. Do you with stick shifts drill a hole or is there a better spot?

I have a triple gauge pod with speaker hole for my a-pillar. What three gauges should I get? I originally wanted trans temp, egt's, and boost. But I have been reading a lot about how important fuel pressure is to monitor also. What are you guys running? And what is the best combo set up? If I go with all 4 gauges, where would the best place be to placed the other one? Thanks guys.

Ok guys I need some help! Just purchased pyro and tranny temp gauges to go along with my FP gauge. Got some questions: 1. Do you put the tranny sensor on the line that is on the left front corner of the tranny? 2. Is there any reason why they sent a 6' connector wire that goes from the pyro sensor to the elctrical sensor for the pyro? Looks like the wires are already long enough to connect! 3. Where is the best place to get the 12v power source for these 2 electrical boxes? I have seen a picture as to where to drill the manifold for the pyro sensor, I will look for that! Thanks for your input!Update:After looking for the picture where to put the EGT probe, I go and look at my manifold closer and to my surprise it is a 3 piece ATS manifold! Already has a internal allen head bolt for the probe! Bad news, I tried to remove it and it is welded tight in there from the heat I guess. So, still going to have to drill the manifold.

I got the quick connect w/ the big line kit. But it only goes to the filter. So from the filter to the VP44 is the stck line. Does anyone make a big line kit that goes the rest of the way. it doesn't have to be a quick connect. I have a standard cab & the connections were a pain in the neck to find a place to make work. Sort of looks rigged the way I have it. I'll see if I can post some pix!Thnx, Dave

Ok I know I have the edge juice with attitude and cts! I'm using it to monitor all my gauges! But I'm thinking about putting in a 3 gauge pillar mount, going with 60psi boost, 100psi fuel and egt gauges! What brand do you fellows recommend using? What is the best?

Hey guys could use some input if you have the time. My 02 has a 1/2 inch braided line with a 90 elbow coming off of the ip going to the reservoir. I have an edge J/A but am having a hard time understanding how to make the banjo bolt or an equivalent work with the edge. I had a short and now I think my ECM is acting weird and my lift pump is intermitent when turned on and a different idle . Any help would be great..., thanks in advance.

Ok I feel like an idiot I have almost every gauge known to man in my truck but I wanted to put some on the a pillar so I thought just go buy and a pillar pod right. I did and it was suposed to be cut to fit and basicly glued to the old one I sent it back thinking I could find a better mount with no avail does any one know of a pod that just replaces the stock one and clips in where the stock one did is this possible or am I asking to much