Search the Community

can anyone tell me the correct torque spec for intake & exhaust valve rockers.on a 24 valve 2nd Gen. " its a 10mm bolt,Installing new DDP 40HP. Injectors and I loosened 2 before i figured out i did not have too do to remove injectors..

I put a dial indicator on top of my valves, did some fancy work to find exact TDC (have movie, need to edit), and found when the valves opened/peaked/closed and marked them all on the damper. I did some fancy calculations and came up with my numbers on what happens as the engine turns.I will start at the power stroke, the diesel blows up and the piston goes down, 60* before the piston hits the bottom of the power stroke, the exhaust is already opening. The piston then goes up on the actual exhaust stroke with the exhaust valve peaking at 113* before the piston reaches TDC on the exhaust stroke. At 12* BTDC Exhaust stroke, the intake valve starts opening. At 12* past TDC on the intake stroke, the exhaust valve is closed. 91* into the intake stroke, the intake valve peaks. The piston continues down then starts back up on the compression stroke. 13* into the compression stroke, the intake valve is closed. Exhaust Valve total duration is 252*Intake Valve total duration is 206*Valve Overlap is 24*Everything is in crankshaft degrees, NOT camshaft degrees. Camshaft degrees would be half of what I just wrote since it moves half the speed. So 180* rotation on the crank is only 90 on the cam.This was with my valves at 0.008" Intake and 0.015" Exhaust.

I've got a sound that started over a year ago from inside the dash.(truck was still completely stock and 115k) At first I thought it was just something in the door pocket or glove box rattling.. it also was so faint i thought I might be hearing things...and I would only hear it at around 2000 rpms if I pressed the pedal (some days I wouldnt hear it though and then it'd come back confirming I hadnt been hearing things)It eventually got louder and louder til now it actually is really annoying but still its worse sometimes and sometimes I swear its gone(i thought it was gone all winter but it came back as it started warming up out)I've checked and fixed a leak from my turbo/downpipe connection but that didnt fix it.I'm highly doubting it to be the exhaust manifold and can't feel any exhaust escaping.The best idea I can come up with is my edge is effed and its being finicky with the timing... would that make any sense even though i did hear a slight noise barely before i had the edge it may not have been the same noise cuz it can be pretty loud now?I have some injectors on the way so i'm going to do a valve adjustment when i do the swap to see if that or the injectors help.. Not gaining oilSo if anyone could give me any input on this issue I'd appreciate it... anything I should look for on the valves while there?Oh yea, and it only does it under load.. not idling or free revvingfor awhile i thought maybe carbon build up?I've spent the last year searching the web now and then and have found many things that sounded similar but nothing quite the same..when it first started getting louder itd only be between 1500-2000 rpms... its not near as noticeable after 2000 rpms

Figured I would give everyone a guide for a 12V that is perfectly powered and efficient and reliable. I am thinking this will get you to around 350-400HP with controllable EGT's. This will give you a truck that doesn't smoke a ton and is very efficient. The catch is that I am not sure if this will work for everyone. My truck has the stock lift pump and I am not sure it is flowing like it used to, though I got a new overflow and it holds at the right pressure so I am thinking it is fine, but it doesn't smoke like it used to. This guide is for someone to try it and see if it actually clears up the smoke, drops the EGT's, and has efficient power, as mine improved little by little as I did each mod. I just want to be sure I'm not delusional Step 1: Get a BHAF. This will improve flow and make the filter media last longer since there is more surface area to get dirty. Step 2: Get a 4" or bigger exhaust either straight piped or with a see-through muffler. Again, this improves flow. Step 3: Get a pyrometer and boost gauge if you haven't already, otherwise you are asking for trouble. Step 4: Set your valves at 0.008" intake and 0.015" exhaust. Only do this if you know exactly how to do it, as this is a tight tolerance and is the minimum setting on exhaust so if you screw it up a lot, you might end up having a valve open the whole time. Typically valves loosen, so if you get it set perfect, you shouldn't ever have a problem. The minimum settings are what they are because valves expand as they heat up so this accounts for expansion. This should make the HX35 spool up better than an HY (after we do AFC mods). Step 5: Get a boost elbow and set it to max out at 35psi (though you will probably max out there with the wastegate stock). This might be a problem as I use something that keeps the wastegate completely shut until 35psi, so I get to 35psi much earlier, but try the elbow anyways as it might work just as well. Step 6: Get a 400HP clutch (or better). If you don't, you might as well stop here. If you have an automatic, get it built up or something (I don't know anything about the auto's but I know the stock one's don't hold up). Step 7: Take the AFC arm out of the AFC housing, taking the AFC out of the picture (since the arm is out of the picture). This will leave the fueling up to your foot, which is nice. Step 8: Take the fuel plate out. Again this leaves fueling up to your foot but also provides max fueling. I would like to have someone with a 215HP 12V do this setup and see what happens. They should have only a haze or slight amount of smoke (after the turbo lights) and the EGT's should be much harder to get over 1200F. The turbo should light extremely quick as well. There are some other things I did that might have made a difference as well but I don't know if anyone would go that far: [*]Remove the Fan [*]Remove the Fan Shroud (this means doing something with the overflow and wiper fluid) I think taking the shroud off allowed the air to free flow through the intercooler more since it isn't running into the shroud on the sides, giving lower IAT temps under high boost conditions (when your getting near 1200F). Here is the part you must know and is key to success. With no AFC and no fuel plate, flooring it means max fuel at any point in time with or without turbo boost. This means you can get a ton of smoke down low before boost is built if you happen to step on it. You must get a feel for the pedal. The rack inside the pump only moves a fraction of what the pedal does. If you get in the truck, turn the key on, bump the starter (don't start it, bumping it engages the shutoff solenoid), and push down on the pedal easily until it gets hard to push (should only go down an inch, maybe less), that is actually full rack travel because the governor flyweights are not fighting you since they are not spinning. You can feel that in the pedal when you step on it, if you can just ride slightly behind that hard spot, it will move dynamically with engine RPM until it is to the floor (3000 RPM). The 215HP pump retards timing (none of the other pumps do) when the rack is all the way in because it has to jam more fuel in to get the higher HP rating. It is 4* retarded IIRC. To keep the engine efficient, you don't want it to be retarded, you want to keep the rack slightly behind that full rack spot so that it isn't retarding timing. If you put it to the floor and then do this method, you will see that the truck is faster when you ride slightly behind the rack. Fuel plates do this for you to an extent but not nearly as good as your foot is capable of doing. There is a reason 24V guys have many different levels. You can adjust your plate constantly, or you can take it out and adjust your foot constantly. After a few weeks (give or take), you will be a pro at it and be able to dynamically control fueling better than any chip can even dream of doing. It will become 2nd nature. You will know when it is going to smoke, when the turbo is going to light, everything and have 100% control over it, not riding some AFC or fuel plate that might not be the power you were wanting for that particular instant. This takes some tedious footwork but is really not that hard. I had one of the two springs fall off the throttle and I can press the pedal to the floor with my pinky. I had to readjust my footwork but after 2 days it was back to being 2nd nature and it's kinda nice not having to press hardly at all. If anyone wants to try this, do everything I said (cept the optional stuff) as they all add up to success, then let me know your results.

Hey guys I have a buddy that has a 04CR and has a cracked valve seat he was wondering if any othe head would work because he herd that these years had a problem or if there are any other options availiable? Thanks!

I have pulled my valve cover about 3 times in the past several months trying to track down where a ticking noise is coming from. I think I have narrowed the tick down to the very back no.6 exhaust valve. I don't think it's normal to be able to hear this sort of ticking from inside the cab when applying the gas. I noticed this tick around 25,000 miles on the truck & right now it only has a little under 40,000.This last time that I pulled the valve cover I found the valve to be out of adjustment & so I tightened it up. Before I adjusted it I pulled up and down on the rocker I was kind of surprised but there seemed to be a small amount of movement between the rocker arm & the push rod???? I didn't really think that it should be possible though with the nut being tight....The tick seems to have quieted a little after I adjusted it but I'm still worried there may be something wrong. The tick can only be heard when applying the gas lightly when going up a grade or starting out from a stop.....seems to have to do with rpm & load on the engine....i don't hear anything unnusual when the truck is just idling.....Anybody experience a similar problem like this? Thanks.

I just adjusted the valves on my new head for the first time and noticed all the rockers hold oil. Before it would about 3-4 rockers would hold oil and the rest would be empty.My thought was they should leak down if they had good flow. But all rockers held oil thru the entire valve adj.These are the original rockers on the same pedalstal's.The only diff. I can think of is all new valve springs, would that cause them to hold oil if the springs where holding more pressure?Hey Mike new pump from chip came in yesterday, took long enough.lol I sure didnt wont to go thru the explanation of the clear line again.lmaoMerry Xmas

So I changed the lash to 8 intake 15 exhaust. It still spools really good but not the jump I was expecting because it was a huge difference when I went from 10/20 to 8/18 so I thought 8/15 would be a big jump again on spoolup but I don't think it changed that much. I am thinking me cleaning the turbo and all the crap off of the turbine shaft must have gave it a big kick. I will say this though, it runs reallllllly smooth now. The power just rolls on perfectly, no points on the throttle that are more powerful than others, even down at lugging speeds. I might go back and set the intakes down to 6 and see what happens.

I pulled all rockers off replacement head for my truck and what I noticed was every rocker had scratch marks in the bottom of each rocker and the rocker shaft, Is this normal? I dont like what I am seeing but there is no slack in them that I can feel, I will mic each one tomorrow. Can anyone give me the wear tolarance for this inspection? I did a search and not getting the right info. There is no sluge in head it looks good as far as that go's. I just cant belive the rockers would all have scratch marks like that. Oh and cylinder one and cylinder three had green dots far something I dont know what, cylinder one with one mark and cylinder three with two dots. Also stock thermostat was still in this 98 modle head, 8/98 was stamped on stat.