cumminspower

thanks for the writeup. i am getting ready to install cab lights on mine too. my truck is black so i decided to go with the smoked recons. i think the factory amber ones look really ugly on black. are the measurments that you used the standard measurements on the late 2nd Gen trucks? I've got the template from the cab light kit from dodge but I know it doesn't work for the 2nd Gen's because it was for the 3rd gen body style. Still trying to decide how I want to measure the lights and get them centered.

Thanks. I appreciate the information. I will see if I can get it checked & make sure there isn't a problem.

Lately I've been wondering if possibly I've got a problem with my IAT sensor. I haven't gotten any codes but my grid heaters cycle at weird times & I also seem to be getting pretty bad gas mileage. 13-14mpg in town...Sometimes after I drive the truck for a while & it gets up to normal op. tmps I can shut it down, wait 5 minutes, start it back up & my grid heaters start cycling again....Shouldn't the intake manifold have already gotten warm enough that it wouldn't need to cycle the grid heaters again? I live in Alabama too, so it's not like it's cold or anything.... I've already pulled the IAT sensor out & checked it & cleaned it....It wasn't even dirty at all.....I'm just wondering if it might have a problem....Is it very common for one to have a problem & the truck not throw any codes at all?

I'm not real sure that the bushing is going to help any in this situation....I took it apart last night trying to find out where the popping noise is coming from & it's immediately beind the steering wheel under the plastic cover part & buried inside the steering column....when you put pressure on the wheel on top or bottom you can feel the column pop right here....I didn't really want to dig into the column that far so I stopped & put it back together...I was wondering if it could be a bearing or bushing that could be worn or loose in that area....

Lately my steering wheel has developed some movement in it up & down & a popping noise. If you press on top or bottom of steering wheel it makes a pop & moves slightly up and down. It's even gotten so loose that the steering column & wheel seem to rattle when you hit a bump in the road. Is there anything common that gets worn out in these steering columns that causes the steering wheel to have movement in it like that & a popping sound. The popping sounds like it's coming in the area directly beind the steering wheel....Thanks for any help or suggestions.

yeah, i'm pretty sure i had my key in the on position at the time because i was turning the front hubs back and forth. I guess that explains the error code. I went ahead and cleared it & it didn't come back. Thank you for the information. Mike

Over the weekend I had my truck jacked up and was spinning both the front tires trying to find a noise. Tonight when I checked my codes I had a P0500 speed sensor error code. I checked my manual and on the 02 the speed sensor is under the front wheel hubs. My question is would having the front wheels off the ground & spinning the tires make it throw this error code?

i put about 3 1/2" lift on the front on mine & I decided to go with the adjustable control arms. They are a little higher priced than other control arms but they make a it a lot easier to get your axle centered after you lift it. If you decide to make changes later & go even higher then you are ready because your control arms are adjustable. I bought mine from Rokman Offroad. They have a website. SSI also sells adjustable control arms but they want over a $1,000 for a set. I'm sure they are good, but that's kinda high if you ask me......

I was just wondering if you might have noticed any improvement after installing new injectors....I have the same weird tick in my truck & it's only noticeable under load around 1,500 rpm's....

how many miles you got on yours? i have an 02' also with 47re in it.....every once in a while i notice it doing some gear searching between 35-40mph.....i got a temp gague on it & it seems to happen after it gets up around 160 or so.......

thanks, it was kind of hard to tell how much room is left between the hood & the filter when closing it....i'm starting to see that it's helpful to have the heat shield since it gives it a flat platform to sit in & probably doesn't move around as much when not using one.....i think i will defintely get a heat shield before trying to install it again.....

I was a little disappointed this afternoon when I tried to install my new BHAF & it seemed like there wasn't enough space to close the hood.....I just got a Donaldson DuraLite off Vulcan Performance like a lot of folks are using.....Anybody have any idea how much space is usually left after installing the BHAF between the top of the filter & the hood.....It didn't really look like it fit to me & I definitely don't want any warping in the hood..... Also, does anybody have an idea if those bolts for the factory air box can be taken out from the bottom side.....I didn't really feel like removing my fender liner to find out if they could be taken out.....wasn't sure if anybody had their's removed.....I just wanted to be able to put them back later in case I went back to the factory box...Thanks... --- Update to the previous post... sorry, accidentally put this one in the wrong forum....

i've had a unknown tick on mine since i've about 25,000 miles on it.....it kind of reminded me of the sound of a broken speedomoter......like you said you can hear a faint tick near the firewall around 1500 rpm's.....i've checked the valves on mine several times & exhaust manifold......i kind of gave up on it.....truck still drives great & doesn't seem to have any power issues....only thing i've always wondered about is i seem to get really bad gas mileage when just driving around town....probably only around 13-14mpg.....highway driving i seem to get around 17-18.....always wondered if it might be an injector issue, but i don't seem to get any rough idle or smoke at all unless it's on a cold start.....just figured i would stop worrying about it & just drive it... i was curious about something......does the onboard computer hold information like the max rpm's that have ever been reached on these trucks if that hasn't been cleared? i've always been interested in finding this out, but i figured you would have to have the dealer equipment to be able to pull that kind of information from it.....

cool....you've replaced yours before? can you just support the engine with a good jack & board or something & remove the engine mount bolt.....i was thinking about replacing mine with some better ones & see if it would cut down on some of the shaking.....

not trying to hijack the thread, but speaking on the subject of engine mounts.......how difficult is it to replace the engine mount inserts that are rubber? do you have to remove the engine mount bolt & lift the engine up to get to replace them?