fire176969
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I started with removing the OD section since this can be done in the truck. Remove the bolts and tap with a dead blow hammer to get the case started apart. Once it is started you can use a prybar or large screwdriver to seperate them farther. I took it apart with the pan still on so the parking pawl lever gave some resistance. The next step I took was to remove the overdrive clutches. Remove the waved snap ring and the clutches will come out of the basket. Here is the basket/case with the clutches out The clutches for overdrive layed out If you look at the outside of the direct clutch basket in this picture you can see the broken snap ring which is the reason I pulled this transmission out in the first place. Here is the access cover removed to get to the snap ring so the output shaft and direct clutch assembly can be removed from the case. The output shaft assembly removed from the case. Here is where the "special tools" came into play. I used some pieces of metal laying around to build basically a U shaped tool to compress the spring and clutches enough to remove the remaining pieces of the direct clutch basket snap-ring. I used a big vise to compress them and remove the pieces but a press would work better. I removed the direct clutch hub to show you the direct clutch return spring. It has around 800Lbs. of force on it. I also used a vise to remove the retaining ring for it. THIS WAS VERY DANGEROUS!! It also was shown as needing a special tool to compress the spring however I only used a vise. I definitely recommend making a tool to compress this spring as you can see it is pretty hefty. One like the tool I made above should work fine but I was low on time so I didn't make one. However to just rebuild the trans I cn't see any reason this hub assembly would have to come apart. Here are the parts from the OD section layed out, you can see the 5 pinion planetary gears and the internal gear for the sprag clutch. Along with the big spring, direct hub, and the direct clutch basket.
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I pulled the truck twice about 40 minutes before my dad went to pull. I had zero issues other than picking the wrong gear. He hooked to the sled and the truck died before it moved 10 feet, didn't even have the clutch fully engaged. I did find another issue tonight, the holder for the crank sensor was stored open and allowing the sensor to move in and out about 1/88 of an inch. Replaced the sensor hold down, had a bolt break off in the starter so didn't get it started but going to pull again Friday night so we will see what happens.
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Has 150 hp injectors and an edge comp. Last time it was set on level 3 when it died. I am not sure if it matters but it has died while accelerating when trying to take off pulling a sled. Fuel filters are new and has the drawstraw 5 for the tank pickup.
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The truck I have the issue with is not in my signature. It's a 1999 and if my memory is correct it is a scheid pump.
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Yes I have attempted to pull the codes and there were none. Had the vp44 thought myself but what doesn't make sense is why you either have to coast start it or bleed the injectors to get it started. The last time it died was when my dad was just starting to get the sled moving in a truck pull, let the clutch out to quick and it stalled, would crank but not start. Ended up having to pull start it
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Fuel pressure stays constant until engine quits. Has an AirDog 150 lift pump. It bleeds down during normal shut off, haven't been able to watch if after it dies due to being on the road or pulling track.
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Yes, fuel pressure does drop because engine shuts down. Bump the key after it shuts down and fuel pressure goes right back to 17. No codes
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Wild and free is correct. I also have a 70u2 rear in my truck. The only difference is the yoke and input seal from any other Dana 70 in the dodges. Took me about 4 hours on the phone to finally get an answer on it. I rebuilt mine a couple years ago and got the kit and info from randy's ring and pinion if I remember correctly.
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Have no codes
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Having an issue and just starting to look for the cause. Have a 1999 24v with a 5 speed transmission that will shut down after you let off the accelerator when you accelerate hard. After it dies you have to crank the engine excessively to get it to restart. At times it won't restart unless you pull/coast start it or bleed the injector lines.
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I also run 35x12.50s on my truck. Haven't had any issues with tte rods. Did however have to replace the track bar twice. Put lock out hubs on and replaced the ball joints just because I had the front end apart so far, but I can't say they were trashed. Broke the output shaft off of the steering box once and wiped the lower bearing out of the replacement steering box.
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Return line leaking will syphon the fuel out of the injectors causing extended cranking times. They can let air in the system without letting fuel out also, gives a way for air to get in allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank.
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I was not aware of that either. That was definitely a brain fart of engineering.
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No. On your dually you don't need to remove the axle nut. You need to remove the hub adapter for the dually wheels. Once you unholy the hub adapter the rotor should come right off
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I also had the same issue. If I cleaned my battery terminals on the passenger side battery it seemed like mine would be fine for a few days or a month. There was no pattern to when it would start acting up. I used spray grease and covered the terminals on the passenger battery and that gave it about 6 months before it acted up again. I was coming home from work one night and the truck died going down the highway, fuel pump wouldn't run. Don't remember what codes were in it but turns out my ecm decided it was time to die. Bought a used ecm from a friend of mine and haven't had the unlock issue once and it has been close to a year now.
