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  1. With my new rear axle speed sensor unplugged my speedometer still worked on the dash and edge attitude.I followed my front wheel speed sensor wiring and unplugged them both.Now no speed is displayed.For me the front sensors each individually and the rear all can make my speedometer read.Surprisingly.... This also fixed my rough stuttering idle that occurs once warm. This is awesome because I was just waiting for that vp to finally give out.Sent from mobile
  2. I replaced the rear axle sensor and the problem was still there the other day. It doesn't happen on a short drive but seems to be real bad on the way back if I go into town. I suppose I'll have to remove the edge and see what happens but are there any other sensors?Sent from mobile
  3. http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/carlhend/7A882EFD-08B1-489E-9841-71DBAB65C14A-1821-00000212176DF118.mp4 http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww66/carlhend/7A882EFD-08B1-489E-9841-71DBAB65C14A-1821-00000212176DF118.mp4 It has done this periodically over the past 3 yrs but it was extremely rare. Only knew because it would flash for a second warning that I was going 100+ mph while clearly not. Now since yesterday it has been pretty bad doing it regularly and even cutting fuel saying I was going 150+ mph while cruising at 60. I have the p1693 code which I need to get looked further into with a reader. Since the weather has warmed up the truck has had a bit of a miss when idling after warming up. Idles smooth when cold and accelerates smoother than ever. I'm afraid that may be a separate issue involving the vp44. Again, I need to get that code checked out. I did have the water in fuel light flash on for a brief moment twice a week apart a few weeks ago. Sent from mobile
  4. No, that thought did cross my mind but my edge starts beeping low fuel pressure if the tank starts getting down there and the fuel sloshes around. The chances of my pressure sensor and the fuel gauge simultaneously screwing up are pretty slim.I never added any more fuel before getting it going again.Sent from mobile
  5. Well the truck started right up now. After bleeding injectors awhile and seeing a bit of fuel I checked the ground and voltage to the vp44's plug which checked out fine.By this time I had a fresh charge on the batteries and the weather had warmed up to close to 30degrees.Well it fired right up so maybe I wiggled a magic wire accidentally which leaves the issue unfixed.Or else my fuel was gelled but I feel that is not the case being that my pressure was fine and last winter when it gelled it dropped to zero psi but kept running.I think that the guy driving it decided to test it out and let off of WOT quickly causing it to vapor lock.Sent from mobile
  6. Okay thanks for the reply, the truck will be back home tomorrow morning so I can start the fun process of diagnosing and freezing fingers then. I did come up with the thought of maybe he accidentally put gas in but is too embarrassed to say? He had mentioned maybe putting some more diesel in to make sure it hadn't run low and the gauge being off.That thought,along with fuel gelling is about shot down with good fuel pressure though.Would the APPS keep the engine from starting? Last winter I had thought about the TIMs replacement because I had surging but it went away with warmer weather. I had figured maybe the injection pump heading downhill or the APPS.
  7. Last night my buddy (so I can only go off what he tells me happened) had my truck and got a phone call this morning about a dead truck. Code read was p0122 early this morning (I believe this can be from spinning wheels in the snow?) and now the code is the p1693 companion code. I don't have a reader to check further into that one.He said that the truck just stalled out on him... literally just died.Quarter tank of fuel, 18psi fuel pressure when I bump the lift pump.No drips or leaks. I cracked numbers 1 and 3 injectors and he said he saw fuel from #1 but didn't say it was spraying or anything.Over the past 10-15k miles the truck has randomly died maybe 5 times but starts instantly as if an ignition wiring problem exists and a bump causes it to short out and shut off. Maybe this time it just didn't stop shorting out? Or would this all be vp44 electrical failure?I checked the fuses and they were all fine.Should I start with getting that companion code checked out a little deeper? Thanks in advance I really need this thing rolling on its own again soon.
  8. Yea from now on I'll do the extra miles to autozone rather than car quest though .... Cheaper and they looked up my alternator and it was still in warranty so swapped me another one no questions asked free of chargeSent from mobile
  9. Ugh.. It ended up being the fuse I didn't look close enough the first 4 times.However the one car quest gave me was bad I made him show me when I brought it back and it didnt work so he got me my old one back which was also bad after making the cruise to autozoneGlad I did it that way though because autozone replaced it free of charge Sent from mobile
  10. fuse was ok but i'll check the green wire tomorrow and report back now youre saying unhook the green but keep the blue hooked up and then instead of that green (ground) going to the pcm where the voltage is regulated by varying the ground it will go straight to full ground causing the unregulated voltage to runaway if it does this then the old mopar style regulator will fix my issue correct? --- Update to the previous post... I have 12v off the blue wire and no overcharge when i ground out the green wire... nothing happens when i do this I had the plug connected normally and opened up my splice from before on the green wire and ran straight from the alternator to the ground on the battery and several other spots while someone watched for it to start charging but nothing happened im going to take off this new alternator and go see if i can get them to give me my old one back and money back and have my old one tested at a different location --- Update to the previous post... well i just got back from carquest but they wont have my original back til tomorrow however he put the one they gave me onto the test bench and it didnt work now its got me wondering could my truck be causing them to burn out instantly? i dont think that would really happen or are they lying and didnt actually test the new one before giving it to me or maybe their test bench is malfunctioning it did look like it was quite old and the guy seemed sketchy on using it
  11. Okay awhile back maybe 20,000 miles tops I replaced my alternator and all was good.....Well except 3 random times when the truck just completely shut off beginning with the radio and everything turning off followed by the engine dieing a second later. Everytime it cranked over and started right back up no problems.Now today i lost charge... gauge went all the way down to nothing and the check gauges light came on.After driving home I shut it off and turned it back on... the voltage read around the 12v mark as I believe it should if it is just pulling off the batteries but not charging.I took the alternator off and had it tested... they claimed it was bad and though skeptical I got a new one which didnt change anythingI cleaned all the battery terminals and had the batteries tested.. both checked out goodNow I am at a losspossibly time for a new PCM? I realize that it could be just about anything when it comes to electrical though.
  12. Good deal I'm going to be in the market for a timbo apps in the future also.... Just started noticing a spot in the pedal where my acceleration kind of drops off when I'm under easy acceleration Sent from mobile
  13. I can easily see 35 psi but with the edge you can set it to defuel where u want And I think it only reads up to 35 The smoke is easily controllable but u def have to be careful and or keep the edge sub levels down Yes I'm running he hx 35 Sent from mobile --- Update to the previous post... it just needs someone willing to take on the project My problem is that I have to drive my truck everyday so I can't start the project without being 100% certain that I have everything needed to complete it
  14. 650+shipping 60mm version Recently picked this vgt up and decided its just a little more of a project than I was looking for although I would really like to use the variable geometry controllability 218 three four one 5264 Sent from mobile
  15. Which gauge?I'm assuming you mean the water temp gauge The temp of the oil is what should be higher I believe Someone correct me if I'm wrong because I'm not completely sure.. Does it actually heat the block? Even if it does it'll only heat the coolant inside the block Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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