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Found 20 results

  1. Hello- Newbie poster here, be gentle with me. Bought a 2002 6 speed for towing a month ago, 114K original, one owner, super clean, 100% stock. Had sat for 4+ yrs after gentleman died; I bought it from his widow, Carter block mounted LP died on way home from SLC. Local diesel shop installed newer version of Carter, but I am leery of it. So, am installing 95 gph FASS myself, with G&R dual sump. I have followed the threads here and Cummins forum, and would be OK with keeping stock fuel filter (and deleting the Carter) but don't know which fittings to use to adapt the 1/2 inch FASS supply line through it. Truck is at home (not in front of me to look at), I am in AK at work, and trying to plan and order fittings from here; will be home in a week to dive into the job. Can anyone tell me what the line fittings are on a stock 2002 fuel filter? Are they banjo and barbs? NPT? AN/ JIC? I am just trying to save myself a week + shipping time and cost by ordering the fittings now. Also, has anyone ever seen a 12mm banjo x 1/2 inch fast lock barb for sale, anywhere? (In case I wanted to increase my return line to 1/2 inch). Appreciate you all.
  2. Well, joined the forum back in Nov... had been working on plotting out our tune up/ preventative & maintenance plans and before we got anywhere within driving the truck an additional 500 miles at most we have MAJOR ISSUES... needless to say we have have the truck parked in the driveway since we put new tires on it at the end of November, we have had to start it a few times to move it for snow removal and driveway access issues... So here goes the saga of problems... this fall we noticed that we were having issues with the truck shifting around 45 mph... after much reading on this forum, I do believe that it probably is the same torque lock/ converter issue that many have been having. So, I had been calling around to different auto part stores to research alternators as a place to start... My husband also informed me that I was not the only one who had replaced the batteries in the truck in the last year or so (It would have been nice if he would have told me that a little sooner, since I am the more mechanical of us)... We had also been fighting with the 4wd for about a year... The mechanic that we were using supposedly replaced some of the parts but I do not know which ones bc he did not record it in the system and we had issues with the other work that he said he had done at the time but upon closer inspection did not do. My brother and I traced all the vacuum lines and made sure none of them were dirty/clogged/ disconnected etc.. one or two of them were dislodged/ loose so we cleaned them made sure they weren't clogged and reattached them . We also checked the diaphragm and it seemed to move in/ out easily as well... but we did not have time to get any further in diagnosing, before many more issues started to arise... My husband had a training seminar in Denver and we knew we needed new tires so we were able to combine the trip, I didn't have time before he left to change the oil so he insisted on going to a grease monkey as well while he was down there... then literally as my husband was driving home from Denver which is about an 1 hr 30 min drive up a mountain pass; a slue of other issues started... Unfortunately I wasn't in the truck at the time and my husband is not the best at paying attention to subtle vehicle noise/ performance differences. TO all the guys out there, I love my husband very much and in no way am I trying to "dis" him, we have just been together long enough that we both recognize each others strengths and weaknesses... so back to the drive back home per my husband's account; he called me and says "Sarah I think something is wrong with the truck, if I accelerate past about 60 the vehicle will not shift, just revs highier and higher and I have never seen the rpm gauge go so high..." My reaction was, well SLOW DOWN, if it;'s not shifting it's not going to just because u give it more fuel and rev the engine. Secondly, I asked him to check the temp gauge (unfortunately, we have not installed additional gauges that I had already ordered.. so we still just have stock) and make sure that he didn't need to pull over... he responded with well I am not sure what it's normally at but it doesn't seem unusually high. Well, how about the other gears? It was sluggish to get started, even when it was warmed up... So, when he got home we parked the truck and the next day I took it out to drive it to see if I could get a better feel for what was going on. First off, the truck wouldn't start... it had been cold that night probably around -10, but the truck block heater was plugged in and when I went to drive it the temp had already warmed up to around 30... when it gets that cold I have found that the truck will usually start easier if I turn the key and wait for the "wait to start" light to turn off two or three times before actually cranking the engine. However, even with this technique (which I realize is a red flag in itself) the truck would click click click try to turn over and just wouldn't go... so I got out the trust battery charger and usually if I just put it on high for less than 5 mins the truck will start right away... no such luck... so I left the charger on for about 30 mins before it would start (when it did there was quite a bit of smoke, although I don;t remember if it was black or white). Once started, the truck idle was very slow (even more than usual) so instead of going inside, I sat in the cab and rev'ed the engine for the concern of gumming etc. It took about 5 mins before I felt comfortable to let the truck sit and run while I wasn't watching it... I let it run for about 10-15 mins before I got in for the test drive. I immediately noticed that when backing up that the truck was acting very sluggish...we live right on main st in our town which is actually a HWY, so we have quite a bit of traffic and pulling out you have to be careful and quick... Which is why I panicked when I shifted into D, hit the accelerator and the truck acted like I merely let off the brake and barely pressed the accelerator, when in reality I nearly floored it. luckily we have a second lane & parking shoulder that starts at our driveway and goes through town, so I was able to creep into it... about 2 blocks of creeping with medium pressure on the accelerator the truck seemed to kick into gear and started to accelerate more normally between about 20-55mph then I did notice that once I reached 60mph I could understand what my husband was experiencing the day prior. After driving just to the next lil town which is 1.5 miles away and back I parked the truck... called our friend that is a mechanic and just started working at the garage literally across the street from our house and started reading... Our mechanic friend said he would help us out after work at the garage (so awesome to have access to the lifts & tools)... but before we could look at the truck our other vehicle decided to have a few issues that we needed to address first (so we would have a vehicle to use), we were able to plug in the code reader and at first no codes were coming up... then we had one or two codes pop up but when he looked them up there were a slue of possibilities and I lost my notebook where I wrote them down, ugg... i blame the chaos on the holidays... We decided that a good place to start would be to change the trans solenoids, replace trans filter w/ seal kit, flush trans and new fluid. Which we were planning on doing tomorrow... in preparation for finally tackling this truck I have been reading, researching and pricing a plan of action this week. Yesterday I did order a TIMBO apps, since it was something that I was thinking about anyway... but I am just getting a little overwhelmed with what parts to address especially with the current issues that I think are somewhat inner related and I fear we will have more issues as I have read through the forum bc we have had above average luck with not needing many of the issues that people have had with this truck at much lower mileages we are at about 203k... So, I need some advice... Gauges- I want basic mechanical gauges in a pillar (EGT, fuel pressure w/ low pressure light, trans temp)... I tried to order some in NOV but had problems finding a matching set, that was reasonably priced but had good reviews (quality). It shouldn't be that difficult... so if anyone has bought them recently and has a source suggestion, please let me know! AirDog II- What do I need to order in addition to the Airdog II to install on truck? Our truck specs are on signature.. Fuel Pump- Raptor: Which model? the factory replacement (FRRP)? RP-100 or RP-150? From what I have been reading and knowing that we use the truck to tow our tool trailer & our flat bed trailer, as well as hauling all sorts of other stuff up and down mountain dirt roads, I was thinking that it would be a better idea to install the RP-100 and take the time to mount it rather than just doing the factory replacement. Any Thoughts? Automatic Transmission: What do you recommend to do while we are in there replacing the solenoids, flushing, replacing filter & kit, new fluid... adjusting bands... WHAT ELSE CAN I DO TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF THE TRANS/ fix issues? Or should I be considering a total rebuild or new one? (I am hoping that I can prolong the current one so I can budget some other stuff first)- If we do replace, I think we may convert to a manual trans set up.... Sorry this is SUCH A NOVEL, I just thought I would give as much detail as possible since I am out of my comfort zone... THANK you in advance for any help/ suggestions you can provide! At this point we need 2wd to work before 4wd!!
  3. Have not been around for awhile been working out of town. Now that I'm back home I want to upgrade the fuel filter system. Here is my ideal. I would like to remove the stock fuel canister and replace with the Fleetguard fs19596 with water in fuel sensor and Cat 1R-0750 after the raptor pump(frrp). After looking at the filter heads and the space where the canister is I think I can fit it all in there. What do you guys think? Will the raptor be able to handle the filters after it? Thanks
  4. I just installed a airdog ll about 3 months ago along with a new VP44 I bypassed the original fuel filter canister ,Now I would like to utilize the canister with the water in fuel sensor and the fuel heater mostly because winter is coming upon us soon here in Michigan ,Right now I have a 1/2 line to the VP44 I would like to install a reducer from 1/2 inch to 3/8 and install right to the top of canister and come out of the outlet with 3/8 down to the VP44 is this possible and if so where can I get these fittings ?
  5. I am looking to put a after market filter set up on my truck and would like to get rid of the factory set up. If anyone has pictures that they could post that would be helpful. I have been looking at two different setups. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK109852-BLKH http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP-MAX-Dual-Remote-Filter-Kit-p/drff.htm
  6. My fuel filter is still in the factory housing and used to just go to the local cummins shop to get a fuel filter but I have moved and would really like to know what to put in my truck. I think it was fleetguard but cant remember now. This topic is popular in the 3rd gen section but it never really comes up in the 2nd gen forums. So, what do you use?
  7. Last time I replaced the fuel filter on my air dog 100 I lost alot of fuel. What do you guys do to make it easier to change the filter. Put a clamp on the hoses ?? When I'm at it I have a 17 pound spring to put in as well.Just looking for tips so I don't lose a few gallons of fuel like I did last time:banghead:
  8. Hey guys this summer I was very proud of myself and found a 2 micron fass 150 fuel filter from my NAPA store! Little did I know it was the wrong filter I put the 2 micron for the water separator! Well in the last few days here in Minnesota it has been dropping into the low 20's and when I have been starting my truck in the morning it would run for a minute and blow the 30 amp fuse that runs the pump:shrug: So what I finally found out after calling Fass a couple of times is that my filter was drawing fuel to hard through that fine of filter, so I spun on a 14 micron Napa #3405 and hopefully all my problems are gone!
  9. I am going to try bf 1212. I see that the rubber gasket is shorter than the fleetguards. Is the filter housing machined different ?
  10. I have a 98 12V and am in need of a new lift pump screen. Where do I find one.
  11. My truck ('99) uses the P/N 4882423 fuel filter assembly. This is the one with the canister that drops off the bottom of the bracket, the fuel line banjo fittings are on top, and the fuel heater harness emerges from the top. I've been told that it is common for them to leak at the fuel heater harness & mine was no exception. In addition, I've been told that neither Dodge or Cummins supports this fuel filter any more, their recommendation being to update to the newer assembly. I was quoted almost $1500 by my local dealer for the repair - totally unacceptable!I disassembled the assembly (remove 3 torx screws, push heater assy/harness out) & found the leak was due to a degraded & damaged o-ring installed on the heater temp switch where it passes through the bracket. I took measurements & ordered a bag of o-rings from McMaster Carr. After clean-up & reassembly with the new o-ring, I'm happy to report the leak is fixed.I have 49 spare o-rings left. If anybody needs one send me a PM & I'll drop it in the mail to you.Joe in St Louis
  12. well we have a list of the best oil filters from AH64ID...so i am interested in who has the best fuel filters for the vp/24 valve trrucks...if possible the % and the micron would be sweet!!:thumbup2:
  13. My fuel filter bowl drain has a constant drip leak out of the drain valve. I have monkeyed with it but can't get it to stop. It was doing about one drip per second but now I have it down to about one drip every 10 seconds. It is still leaking straight on to the engine mount and there is a fuel sheen on everything on that side of the block, and the truck stinks like a diesel leak.Is this common at all? It seems that just the plastic valve for emptying the fuel bowl is what is leaking, or rather, won't close back up completely. Can I buy a new plastic valve or anything to fix this? Some O-ring in there to replace?Thanks in advance
  14. What is the estimated service life of a replacement VP44? I've had to replace a replacement after 2 years. I like the truck but I can't support that.Ops
  15. Here is some data I have collected over the last 18+ months. All of it is directly from the mfgr.
  16. Ok guys...Here goes my first post. I have been a viewer for several years and greatly appreciate all of you that have shared your knowledge here. I just purchased the 2010 for my wife to drive and I have a question regarding the 2 cycle oil diet. I use it religously in my 2001 after replacing three VP44's and 2 lift pumps (I know, I am a little slow catching on ). But with all of the emissions stuff, I am unsure if it will help or hurt. We just retired and moved to Wyoming in November and are loving it. Just need to keep these two "children" happy and fed well. Thanks in advance...
  17. While there are two decent filter choices for the OE filter canister on the 3rd gen (OEM and Baldwin) I wanted better filtration. Bosch would like to see 5 micron filtration on the CP3 and injectors and Dodge only supplies 7. The Baldwin PF7977 is 5 microns, but I still wanted more. After hours of research online and with filter manufactures I decided on adding 2 additional filters to my system. I added a Baldwin BF1212 on between the tank and the OE filter bowl and a Cat 1R-0750 between the OE filter bowl and the CP3. Why these filters. The BF1212 is a 20 micron absolute (97.88% actually, so not quite absolute), 4 micron nominal filter that has fuel/water separation ratings of 97%-99% efficient for removing free water and 92%-95% efficient for removing emulsified water. It is the cross reference for the Fleetguard FS1212 (20 microns at 95%, 10 microns at 79% and 90% for both free and emulsified water removal), but is cheaper and offers slightly better initial filtration. This is my first filter and is more than adequate for initial filtering and f/w separation. The Cat 1R-0750 is a 2 micron absolute (old data) or 4 microns absolute (new data) final fuel filter. It is rated the best in its size/series of any of the like filters. (Fleetguard FS5320 is 5 microns absolute (old data), and the Baldwin BF7633 is 7 microns absolute (old data)).. The old vs new data is simply a change in measuring filter efficiency. According to the new test standard 4 microns is a good of a measurement as you can obtain, thou nothing is physically different on the 1R-0750.. so I say it’s a 2 micron filter as most people are familiar with that style of reporting. The Donaldson P551313 is also rated at 2 micron absolute, but the Cat is easier for me to obtain. Mounting: Both filters are mounted on Baldwin FB1311 filter bases. The BF1212 is mounted to a piece of steel that uses longer driver’s seat bolts and one time use nuts. To tap into the OE steel fuel line I used 3/8 compression fittings and 3/8 push-lok hose. To mount the Cat 1R-0750 I used the GDP MK2+ Big Line Kit as the starting point. I ordered the kit without the filter base, filter, and fuel pressure sender “T”. The GDP kit was complete and easy to install. At the same time I also replaced the banjo on the inlet side of the OE filter bowl with a high-flow banjo from GDP. All my fittings are now high flow. Baldwin PF7977: In the stock fuel canister I am running the Baldwin PF7977. This filter is rated at 5 microns absolute and 1-2 microns nominal. It also has fuel/water separation ratings of 97%-99% efficient for removing free water and 92%-95% efficient for removing emulsified water. Pressure: Because I am now running 3 filters on the stock in-tank LP I wanted to get a gauge on my setup to ensure I am not starving the CP3 of fuel. I installed a Pricol 0-30 psi electric gauge between the OE canister and the CP3. At idle I see 9 psi. (From what I gather most folks running a stock setup see ~11psi at idle). I attribute the 2 psi loss to two things, one there is some increases restriction from the filters but I feel the largest drop comes from the big line kit and hi-flow banjos. Because the elec fuel pump always has the same flow, based on constant voltage, and that pressure is directly related to flow/resistance I think the decreased resistance from the big line kit and hi-flow banjos has dropped the pressure, thou the flow is the same. Off idle I have yet to see below 5psi of pressure, thou I don’t run lots of hp and haven’t towed with the setup yet. But for my needs I have adequate fuel pressure, thou I will upgrade when/if the OE LP fails. If you need more flow I recommend the setup like I have with a AD Raptor 100 plumbed between the BF1212 and the OE canister. The BF1212 is actually a vacuum filter and will act as a good pre-screen for the LP, and will catch any water before the LP emulsifies it. This setup could be used with the stock 3/8 line for stock-mild hp, or with ½” line and a larger LP for high HP. Personally I don’t recommend deleting the OE filter bowl. 2 reasons. 1 is the WIF sensor (yes I know its mediocre at best, but it’s better than nothing) and 2 is the fuel heater. 2 microns is a tight filter, so I like to know that the heater is there. Photos: BF1212 mounted just behind the xcase above the xcase skid plate. 3/8 Compression fitting GDP MK 2+ Big Line kit with the Cat 1R-0750 and Baldwin FB1311 base.
  18. haha.....so i went to change the fuel filter yesterday, took it out, changed the filter, drained the can(first time i've ever done that), put the filter in, and did the starter bump thing...the truck ran for 30 seconds, then died, so i bumped the starter a few times so the pump could cycle....after about 6 times of that, i opened the can to see if it actually was working....and of course it wasn't........ so long story short, i went to o'reilly's, got the Air Tex stock replacement and am waitin on reinforcements to show up to help me R&I..... now for the point of why i think so many of y'all gave up on CF...here's my thread over there http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/236254-f-m-l.html it's guys like black01 that makes folks leave........
  19. Hello, I am about to install a Air dog 100. I have purchased a big line kit from vulcan performance with the tapped elbow. So I can run a a needle valve and connect a grease gun line to it then to the electric fuel sender. I know alot of people by pass the filter heater cannister. How do you think it will perform. I know there will be another filter in the mix. I read a post on another site on a install like that. In the post the user cut the filter and used the o ring from the top of the filter. Any opinoins will be appreciated.Thanks,John
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