Burton85

My 2001 will not start, starter wont click, lights will not even come on. Batteries have a sufficient charge but everything electronic seems to be completely dead. I dont even get the clicking when you open the door and the batteries are in need of a charge. Installed a new alternator last month and my Optimas are in great shape. I disconnected both negative terminals to see if anything would reset but it did not do anything. Started great and ran fine last night...:banghead: I know it is in need of a bath really bad and I have been driving through a heck of a mud hole getting to and from work...perhaps something came loose??? Any help is appreciated! - - - Updated - - - Well, guess I should have checked all of the wires before posting. Ended up being the positive cable running to the fuse box that pulled out of the terminal.

Thanks for the tips guys. Do either of you have a picture of the steering stabilizer bracket/box brace installed?

Hello. Looking to tighten up the front end on my 01' with 225k due to steering wheel play and a little slop. Question I have, do you guys recommend replacing the pitman arm, tie rod, steering damper, track bar, control arms, etc or should I just replace the bushings and any worn out parts? Trying to not break the bank but at the same time I dont want to end up doing the work only to find all new parts were a better route for this repair...Thanks!

My 01 will do the same thing if I have been running at highway speeds for an extended length of time but I am unsure regarding the draw of the winch. Yesterday I had been driving for 700+ miles and my APPS tripped the computer and shut me down so I ended up doing a reset to bandaid it. I drove another 200 miles after that and it wasn't high idling like it was before. Perhaps it might be time for a new sensor? Here is a link that was shared with me. Seems the be the best price if you end up needing one. http://www.dodgecumminsapps.com/

Thanks Will! I think I will go ahead and order one to be safe. I have a feeling the one that I have is original and probably wont last much longer...

Thanks for the help guys. I was able to do an APPS reset that did the trick. It popped codes P0121 and P0500. I looked up the 500 and it sounds like that may have been a minor existing code for the speed sensor on the rear diff (have a feeling.the connector might be a bit corroded). I see a fuel pressure gauge and an AirDog in my near future for VP insurance and feel good factor though. first thought was "this is going to hurt the ole pocket book!" Think I got lucky this go around...

Hello everyone. Iam in the middle of driving from Idaho to North Dakota and am having issues in Glendive, MT. I turned off o!f the interstate and slowed to ~15 mph before merging on to a different highway. My truck accelerated fine and at ~45 mph a check engine light came on and I lost all of my accelerator function. I am 770+ miles into the trip and everything else has been fine until now. It is about 10 degrees out so i am afraid to shut off and attempt a restart/check codes via key trick in fear of freezing to a pop sickle overnight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!P.s. I am running anti-gel in the fuel so plugged filter shouldn't be an issue and I do not have a pressure gauge to check fuel psi. Engine is idling smoothly, temp is good, oil pressure is good and my fuel filter is 2 months old.

Well, I know it has been a bit but I fixed the problem somehow. Rookie mistake I guess but once I refilled the coolant it just started up and works great now. Engine must have a coolant level sensor or something. I felt rather dumb after that was all it took. Thank you everyone for your ideas and help. Heater works great now!

I have not cracked any injectors yet. As for fuel pressure, I have not put a gauge in the truck yet so I dont have a clue on that. I will check the lift pump and injectors after I look at the fuse block. Kind of frustrating as it was running perfectly before I started working on the heater core, aside from the leak... Thanks guys. I will let you know what I find out. - - - Updated - - - I just used the key trick for the codes. I called Oreilly about a scanner and they said theirs only works when the rig is running.

The biggest hassle of the replacement was all of the parts that had to be moved to get to the core. Aside from that it is a relatively easy repair...well, minus the not-starting-when-complete part... My first thought was that I tripped something in the computer module on the firewall (exterior pass. side) but I have done every reset sequence that I can track down with no luck and no codes are coming up on the pcu/ecu test. Ill try popping the column harness again just for grins I guess...10th times the charm??

I picked up a set of Michelin LTX A/S and they are a great road driving tire. Quiet and comfortable, especially compared to the Discoverer ATRs that I had before. Had them up in the hills hunting a little earlier this month and they did alright on the dirt but mud was a different story. Def wouldn't recommend them for alot of off hwy use. They seem to be wearing well so far but I don't expect them to see anything higher than 50-60K...

Replaced my heater core last night, which was oh so fun, and came out to flush the coolant and refill this morning and now the truck will not start. It just cranks and cranks...When I dropped the dash I unhooked the 2 wiring harnesses from the column, the vacuum lines from the hvac controls and the 2 heater fan connections. Under the hood I had to disconnect and remove the computer on the passenger firewall to get to the heater box bolts. Other than that I can can't recall any other wires that may have been missed in re-assembly. Currently truck is sitting 80% drained of coolant with the lines off, fuel pump is working fine. I kicked on the heater controls to check and it is stuck on the defroster but shuts down when I turn the knob to off. :shrug:Hopefully a rookie mistake that's an easy fix! Any ideas???Thanks,Josh