RAD

i must clarify it never started, thats why i could hear it clicking on and off a few times in the run position,

since i recently bought a similar LP, i cut the pigtail from the previous pump and plugged it up to the ECM wiring harness and used it. wasn't to worried about cutting the LP wiring.

thats what i was thinking, nothing wrong on my end regarding that sound. what about the ground wire for the LP, keep it connected to the ECM pigtail?

When you did the relay task, where did you hook the lift pump ground wire to? what did you do with the ground for the pigtail coming from the ECM? i have mine hooked up, once the key is let go from the start to run position, I can hear the relay clicking a few times. I am guessing this is normal and a way to regulate lift pump pressure during the start sequence???

@dripley got that printed out here at home. Going to work on that Tuesday. Still need do do the ground wire relocation. Need to check on the sensors that get 5 volts from the ECM also. If it is still acting up after the ground wire task, I will prolly remove the ECM and send it back to have the rebuilder check it out.

had To double check my manual. That is correct

Cranked up and ran well for a bit. This is what I am getting now, directly from the ECM/LP plug. going to make a relay here in just a bit, run it off the battery and see what happens. battery is reading 12.56. While it was running I was seeing just over 13v at theECM/LP plug

I checked power at the LP plug once it died. With the key still in the run position there was NO voltage, i was still getting voltage at the IP plug. still NO CODES. Does anyone have a clue what could be causing this. Could there be s sensor telling the ECM to shut off power to the LP????

got it stated yesterday, immediately turned it off, started up again with some resistance, immediately turned it off again , struggled worse next time but started. let it run a bit. unplugged C1 at PCM, and stayed running. should have unplugged C2. let it run for a few minutes, cycled through the gears, moved it forward and backward a few feet then eventually died. going to remove all push lock connections and replace with push barb connectors and a very very small length of rubber hose. do not want anything to get kinked up. if my problem still persist, i will then drop the tank and check on what going on with the supply and return lines in the tank. question: can i put a crows foot on the and of a torque wrench and tighten connections down to specs and still get an accurate reading found this: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/renderers/torquewrench/wrench_formula_main_en.asp

replaced overflow/check valve banjo bolt and "t" grommets. seemed to start easier. ran a bit and started cycling through the gears and died. didnt want to start again after that.

I do agree a big line kit along with a good lift will make the engine/truck run better. I would like to get it running as it was last January before I spend that kind of money on it and STILL have the same issues I am having now. Still no “t” grommets Finally got it running today. Idled fine let it run for a bit. Gave it some pedal, nothing more than 1600 rpm. I was shifting through the gears and it died. Would not start again. Started checking connections again, I checked the big plug on the transmission and there was fluid in it. Don’t know where it came from. Is there anything in the ECM/PCM/wired too/tied to any engine components that would make it hard to start and then die as if the key was turned off. Should I go ahead and remove both ECM and PCM and have them check out, this will be the second time for the ECM. Who would y’all recommend me sending them to to be checked out.

ok Air must still be getting in the line somehow. I got it running Monday, gave it a little pedal and wanted to stumble but caught back up (little pedal=sucking little air?? bigger pedal sucked bigger air and died.) i have eliminated any connections from the lift pump back by running from a 5 gallon can. the overflow line is below the surface of the fuel as not to allow air to be sucked in. 5 gallon can is BELOW lift pump suction. i may raise it to be the highest part of the fueling, that way it will have to stay primed, hopefully. May go ahead and put another clear line back in between the fuel filter and IP inlet with a big "loop" in it . If i see bubbles I will be able to see if the bubbles are on the IP side of the clear line or FF side of the line. The overflow valve is leaking only when opened. going to replace that, along with the 4 sealing washers it the IP and the 3 gromnets at the "T".

after reading the comments by @Haggar and @Mopar1973Man, the norm is to see air bubbles coming from the little hole while i blow into the rubber hose.

I took the overflow banjo bolt out today. I attached/screwed on a length of rubber hose being careful NOT to cover any of the three holes in non-threaded section. I then put the banjo bolt in some water an blew into the hose. I saw bubbles coming from the one smaller hole in the bolt, is this normal or should NO bubbles be seen??? i did not do the 14 psi/10 psi compressed air test. Air compressor psi gauge is old and unreliable.

threw a cheeper NEW lift pump on it yesterday. no luck. it did start, gave it some pedal and let off then died. when i opened the valve on the filter housing, fuel came out of the area close to the yellow switch/valve opener. guess i will be removing that and replacing little o-rings??? i , i will investigate but does anyone know the size and what they are made of?

i would like to thank everyone who has commented on this post with their responses. i will keep this topic updated as i continue to get that truck running.

I was reading/looking at fuel delivery stuff today and it seemed to me that the pump(s) very well could have been a dealer installed item.

NOPE!!

what would be the better drawstaw kit to use and not too terribly hard to install?

I do not know if there is a lift pump in my tank or not. I had thought there was either a lift pump in the tank or one mounted on the engine. Could there be both?

well there you go, got to thinking last night, i have put fuel in it and was able to crank it with that lift pump that was on the engine. the fuel level has dropped and and was not able to crank it since last week. thats why i went ahead and too the LP off. i thought there may have been something other than a plastic tube sucking the fuel out of the tank that may have corroded and was sucking air once the fuel level got low enough.

what are the chances of something going awry with the in tank unit that would allow it to suck air? the tank is not completely empty so now would be a good time to remove it and check thing out.

the stock pickuo tube or drawstraw(?) that is in the fuel tank, what is it made of?