Jump to content

We have detected that you are blocking our advertisers. We pay our operational bills with advertising and donations. Please add Mopar1973Man.Com to your whitelist of sites on your adblocker. If you register as a member and submit a donation to the website, the advertising amount is reduced the more you donate. 

 

whitelist.png

 

This will allow you to keep you adblocker turned on for other sites and allow to display advertising here. Thank you, for understanding and whitelisting Mopar1973Man.Com. This will allow us to continue providing quality Cummins diesel information to everyone for free!

RAD

Member
  • Content count

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Unskilled

Personal Information

  • Location
    mobile, alabama

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. yeah it was all my fault!!! i had been working on it quite a bit and checked the wrong wires!!!! it was hooked up properlly. finally got i cranked, i let it run about 10 mun. rpm started fluctuating about 250-350 rpm. shut it off and hasnt started since!! no codes the diagram above and the grounding diagram are very very helpful!!
  2. I received my ECM back from Auto Computer Specialist. Was told NOT to hook it up until I found the short to ground. Of the things I checked was the grid heater solenoids. My voltmeter was reading 12v across the big lugs on both of them. Thinking it was bad, I replaced them with OEM type, NO Ford solenoids. I am still reading 12v across the two bug lugs. TPS is NOT hooked up. ECM is in but NOT hooked up. The relay in the PDC is NOT installed. The two smaller wires on each solenoid ARE hooked up. I have found and cleaned up 4 grounds in the engine compartment. i have not had the alternator checked yet. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  3. RAD

    ECM

    ROGER DODGER
  4. RAD

    ECM

    I received my repaired ECM back from Autocomputer Specialist with a note not to hook it back up until a find the short to ground. I started looking at known problem areas. Once I got around to testing the DTC P0382: INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT I hit a snag. From instruction item 3 " If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and intake air heater relay No. 2." On my sweep Ohm meter set to the 10X scale I am reading 17 or 170 ohms. Without tearing all the wrapping off the wiring harness and looking for a short to ground does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for. I also checked the INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #1 CONTROL CIRCUIT connector at the ECM plug, following the same test and got the same reading on my Ohm meter. Any suggestions on a way to clean the holes/contacts at the ECM plug. I also checked and cleaned a lot of grounding locations.
  5. I received my repaired ECM back from Autocomputer Specialist with a note not to hook it back up until a find the short to ground. I started looking at known problem areas. Once I got around to testing the DTC P0382: INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT I hit a snag. From instruction item 3 " If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and intake air heater relay No. 2." On my sweep Ohm meter set to the 10X scale I am reading 17 or 170 ohms. Without tearing all the wrapping off the wiring harness and looking for a short to ground does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for. I also checked the INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #1 CONTROL CIRCUIT connector at the ECM plug, following the same test and got the same reading on my Ohm meter. Any suggestions on a way to clean the holes/contacts at the ECM plug. I also checked and cleaned a lot of grounding locations.
  6. I received my repaired ECM back from Autocomputer Specialist with a note not to hook it back up until a find the short to ground. I started looking at known problem areas. Once I got around to testing the DTC P0382: INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #2 CONTROL CIRCUIT I hit a snag. From instruction item 3 " If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Orange/Black wire between ECM and intake air heater relay No. 2." On my sweep Ohm meter set to the 10X scale I am reading 17 or 170 ohms. Without tearing all the wrapping off the wiring harness and looking for a short to ground does anyone have any suggestions on what to look for. I also checked the INTAKE AIR HEATER RELAY #1 CONTROL CIRCUIT connector at the ECM plug, following the same test and got the same reading on my Ohm meter. Any suggestions on a way to clean the holes/contacts at the ECM plug. I also checked and cleaned a lot of grounding locations.
  7. Got any leads on rebuilders? I found ecmoutlet.
  8. I am hoping its not the IP since its not that old.
  9. No, not yet. Was hoping to run other things down and rule them out before doing that.
  10. I found a picture of the codes from a while back, never shut off then like it is doing now. P0382, P0122 and P0216 I might add , the OEM positive cable end on the driver side failed/broke a couple of weeks ago and I replaces it with a bolt-on type. I would like to replace it with an OEM type.($$$$) Volt meter in dash reads just shy of 14 volts. No P0606 code. Yes there is a delay in the WTS light, In the past I have let it come on then go off, turn the key off then to run position and there is still a delay.
  11. New to this web site. Ii am working on a 1999 Dodge 2500, 230,000 miles Leaving work the other day, this past Friday, my truck quit as if the key had bee switched off, hard to start back up but did. Soon after that it happened again. the third time, I just parked it. got it running this past Saturday. ran great for about 6 miles, quit again, didn't start any more after that, I had to get it towed home. Was able to get it started three times yesterday. First time it ran for about 30 seconds then just quit. Secong time with out TPS plugged in, revved up very high and I turned it off very quick. Third time, after plugging TPS back in read just under 15 lbs. of fuel pressure at idle. Dead pedal while it was running. Tried starting it again after that but never did start up. Turns over well. I should have made note of the two codes stored. will get them later today to better help with the problem. A couple of questions to help me out at first. 1. Would a bad TPS create a problem like this. 2. Should fuel pressure fall to 0 once the vehicle has been shut off? (pressure gauge on fuel filter housing) 3. Would a faulty heater circuit/relay cause this problem. New list pump installed February 2016. (Airtex) New IP installed November 2016 (Blue Chip brand - stock replacement) New fuel filter (this past Saturday) I will look for any responses/help in order for me to resolve any issue. Thanks in advance! Rad Duke
×