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Rotax3006

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    Billings MT

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  1. You could use it going uphill if you need to stop really quick!!! I know the benefits of the E brake when towing. I don't tow much (just a 2 place sled trailer) with the 5 speed I just grab 4th at the top and no worries. If I pulled heavy loads I would definitely consider one as brake fade is scary stuff. Lots of you guys are saying you like them for daily driving which is probably pretty sweet but without towing much I personally cant justify the cost of one. I think the new trucks come with these from the factory.
  2. I would think that using exhaust brakes wouldn't really apply any more force or wear than downshifting with a manual. Probably less since you are not adding wear on the syncros to make the shift. The comment I made was something an old timer told me when I first started driving dump trucks 15 years ago. True but dodge is in the market to sell parts and services especially at 120000 miles.......Most of us have at least 2 or 3 in front of the OD now. I might keep an eye out for one but a $1000 buys a lot of brake pads. Plus I really want a Quad first.......As always good conversation and info.
  3. Well just ordered a set of rotors and ceramic pads from Detroit axle off amazon for 100$ free shipping. We shall see.
  4. I have always been told brakes are cheap, transmissions are expensive so stay off the E brake unless you need it. Have you seen any reduction in transmission life as a result? I’d like on someday if for nothing more than going down the logging road with a load of firewood. Unfortunately I have to be selective with my wants right now.
  5. Well looks like economy brakes it is. Thanks for all the advice. E brake would be sweet but I don’t tow much, well that and I rather get a tuner next.
  6. Mine is a 98 so I think thats out.
  7. So I heard the standard grinding screeching noise under a stopping yesterday. Looked at the front brake pads and they are shot. Went on RockAuto for a new set of pads and rotors. I noticed a lot of different options. Prices ranging from 25 each for rotors up to 250 for the top end. Is there a substantial difference between the low end, mid grade and top end? I don't pull heavy loads, just daily driving to work. I'm of the school of thought that you get what you pay for. I just hate to waste money if its not really any better. I know the pads are substantially different depending on application but the rotors are my real question. Whats everyone else running, recommend, certain things to stay away from? Any certain combination that works better than others. I live in Montana so we don't really have major corrosion issues. Thanks Bill
  8. Just thinking out loud here but wouldn't there have to be a leak in the fuel system for the vacuum to pull the fuel back out of the system? Cooling fuel can definitely create substantial vacuum just look at a 5 gal gas can. Either way it should be easy to check with shop vac or an air compressor.
  9. I think you are on the right path. Does your amp meter fluctuate indicating the grid heater is working? Like everyone said good batteries and clean connections make a huge difference. How old are your current batteries? Might be worth getting them load checked.
  10. I have had hard start issues a couple times. Just recently it was after I changed injectors. I figured I had a leaking injector feed tube. Checked and re-torqued to no avail. It turned out to be a leaking supply line washer, this did not leak fuel just let air in. Changed all 4 that led up to the VP and no more problems. With that said mine would fire right off then die/ sputter. That is what eventually led me to the supply side of things. I have also had the intake heater corrode and fail. That led to slow starting as well but also to poor running until things got warmed up a little (maybe 30 sec) . Maybe a little more info on how it runs/starts would be helpful in chasing down weather its electrical or fuel related. I know these trucks start way better with good batteries especially in cold weather.
  11. I mean once you get it to start, it runs rough for a few minutes while it works the air out. Mine takes maybe 30 seconds to a minute to level out.
  12. Mine with rv 275s sounds similar. You don’t have air in the system if you get it to start it pushes it at least once you run it for a few minutes.
  13. Thanks Mike. I thought from what I have been reading on here that’s what i needed. I guess I’ll start saving up for that.
  14. Are you talking about the boost fooler (72$) or one of the tuners like the adrenaline. Sorry for all the questions, been running the old dodge since 99 but it’s always been in stock form, new to all this go faster stuff. Thanks Bill
  15. Would a boost fooler and elbow help with anything or are those a waste of money? Don’t have the funds right now for a high end tuner. One of these days I’ll find the right deal but the kids seem to take all my disposable income.........thanks
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