Curt026

Thank you guys for taking the time to try and help. It took me a little while of digging to find that diagram you posted. I was just excited and couldn't find an answer right away. Back to square one again. I'm making new grounds from the batteries and replacing any other ground I can find tomorrow. If that doesnt solve it, which I'm not very optimistic at this point, then I'll be shopping for an ecm. The more I read about the wait to start light not coming on the more I'm leaning that direction. I will also be sure to test for ac current as well. This alternator is about two or three years old and has maybe 10k miles and is from Mechman. It tested good when it was installed but who knows. I have the truck all torn apart at this point. I had a very difficult time trying to run through the 1689 diagnostic tests. I couldn't get readings on most of the tests and I'm not sure if I'm not getting a good connection to the pin or if that's because of internal ecm failures? I'm using a fluke 87? I borrowed from work and it was just tested/calibrated a few weeks ago

well I've been doing my best to run through the tests for 1689 and I'm struggling getting a reading off of the ecm connector because the holes are so small. I did find something that just might be the culprit though. I hope these attached pictures work. Sorry for the bad pics but I'm basically working in the dark with no high side creeper and no help. It appears to me that two of the pins on the harness connector have pulled off onto the pump side. Can anyone who knows what these pins look like for certain confirm this? That connection has only been undone twice and both times it was at the dealer about 50k miles ago. Please tell me this is the root of all my troubles. Number 3 and 9 look to be gone from the ecm side and I cannot tell if they are stuck on the pins on the Vp side. Thank you for any help

My voltage hovers between 13 and 13.2 it seems and doesn't seem to change with temperature. the dash gauge shows everything as normal, maybe slightly low, but to the untrained eye you would never read it as not charging where it should be. My quadzilla has been freezing up on me for about a year now but it would only happen when the weather gets above 70. There were numerous reports of problems with them so I just chalked it up to a faulty quadzilla and didn't think much of it. When I installed isspros some time ago I went through the menu of display readings on the pulse monitor since I no longer needed it for fuel pressure and egt readings. Upon doing that I noticed the ecm voltage as being low. Sometimes when the quad freezes it will display 12.8-12.9 for voltage so to make a long story short that's how I found that problem. It looks like I'm going to have to wait until Monday to get my negative cables crimped at work. In the mean time I'll also try unplugging the quad to see if somehow it's related to my issues. At this point I don't care about having to buy an ecm but I want to make sure that's the problem and fix whatever made it go bad to begin with beforehand. Anyone have any experience with dieselecmusa.com? They have an ad on eBay and seem to have the most professional description of any of the ones I've seen thus far. The descriptions and wording on other sites and ads just doesn't make me feel good about handing over that much cash. They just all seem like a scam

Thank you for chiming in. I did replace the cam sensor about 3 years ago, roughly 10-15k miles, with a new cummins part. I'm wondering if that code is not being thrown just as a side effect of the real issue? My tach works all the time and the first time that it quit on me just the 1689 code was present. Well I should say the first night that I got it home. It had stalled a few times on me on that drive home. Something else that has me wondering is the voltage. My original alternator quit on me or so I thought a couple years back. I replaced it with a mechman and never looked back. Thinking back I'll bet I've had this low charging issue since then or longer. I also read somewhere that the pcm either quits charging or overcharges. Does the ecm have any rule in maintaining charge? It would be so nice if redoing these grounds fixed all my problems but I'm afraid it's to late or not the issue. I hate to buy an ecm and that not be the problem but I am absolutely terrible at electrical troubleshooting. I will report back tomorrow on my findings after going through the 1689 tests and hopefully this will start making more sense. Thanks again

Hey guys first time poster over here. I was fairly active on cumminsforum years ago, but then life got in the way. I've owned my 2002 2500 for about 8+ years now and it has just over 111,000 miles. I had a company vehicle until I switched jobs in June of this year and now I'm dependant on my truck. Long story short is last week on my drive home it just shut off on me like someone flipped a switch. It took a couple times cycling the key back and forth until it would start because I quickly realized that the lift pump was not priming and it wouldn't start. Well it did the the rest of my drive back home (about 5 more times) and has been parked ever since. To be clear once it stalls it will not start until I cycle the key or wait a few seconds and then when I turn the key to on and hear the pump prime it fires right away. It's throwing 1689 and 0341. I finally had a chance to play with it again today after reading up on the issues over the past few days and have found a few more things out. Most importantly is that when I cycle the key off and back on the wait to start light does not light up and the pump doesn't prime. Then when it decides to work I see the wts light and hear it kick on the lift pump and she fires off. I hope this is making sense. I do have an old school quadzilla v2 from before they went out of business and every so often it would freeze up on me. Literally two weeks ago I thought I had that issue diagnosed with a possible low voltage symptom. The gauge in the truck is basically useless and I did not realize that my truck is only charging at 13-13.4. So could there be a correlation here between the pcm and ecm? I'd rather just wire in a regulator at this point but I need to do what I need to do. I'm getting ready to change out the negative cables and all the grounds that feed off the battery because I changed the positives a year ago because of bad clamps. Does anyone have any advice on where to look first or save me the trouble and just confirm it's the ecm? I've done no testing yet for the two codes it's thrown. I appreciate any and all advice and I hope some of this makes sense