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  1. Okay I’m not sure I fully understand what putting in a lockup switch will do. I understand how it works and why to put it in but I need to know exactly what changes when it comes to drivability. I guess what what I would like is a 3 way lockup switch that 1. Has completely stock lockup function 2. Can lock/unlock the t/c on demand 3. Can just prevent lockup from happening until commanded by the switch and then can unlock via brake pedal. Is that hat how they all work? Or am I asking for something that doesn’t exist. Ultimately I want to keep it as stock as possible for people like my wife or whoever may use my truck but I also want to be able to delay lockup until I command it or completely block it’s ability to lockup with the flick of a switch because there are many scenarios that I find the t/c wants to lock to early which causes luging, bucking, and difficulty pulling some hills.
  2. Generally I completely agree about fixing something to the way it was intended from the factory but the problem I’ve found through research about this is that it was common to be a problem right from the get go due to the poor design. I also feel that dodge engineers couldn’t design a half decent suspension/steering system to save their lives. All of the the parts in my steering system are new and it still does this to a minor degree. The particular video posted above is a VERY severe example of what was going on with my truck and I’m sure to be that bad some parts are in fact worn out, improperly installed, or have some other factor contributing to the problem.
  3. I have a hand held 2 way radio for the local logging roads and I was using it today and noticed whenever I would key the mic to talk my oil pressure gauge would drop right off and the “check gauges” alarm and light would come on. As soon as I would let off the mic the gauge would go back up to normal. Really had me confused/nervous the first couple times it happened before I put the 2 together. so what could be causing this to happen and why?
  4. Okay thanks. I have a scan gauge I could hook up and an OTC genesys I can watch live data with so I’ll check into that.
  5. I don’t have a boost gauge. It’s one of many many things on the to do list. I very rarely go beyond 3/4 throttle. The low power problem feels like it’s a somewhat recent thing I don’t remember it being so gutless and it almost feels as if it’s slowly getting worse. The VP has maybe 20k miles. Truck has under 120k miles. I guess i will will try to see if the wastegate is stuck. The boost elbow isn’t adjustable and I don’t think I have the stock piece around.
  6. Yes I have. Maybe I’m interpreting it wrong but I don’t get how that proves whether the MAP is good or not. Even with a stuck wastegate and totally stock fueling shouldn’t it not exceed boost limits? That article says to replace the wastegate and mentions nothing of the MAP sensor itself needing replacement. Is it just a part that never fails and if it had codes it’s pointing towards other parts being the cause?
  7. Okay I’m somewhat happy to hear that. Is there a way I can definitively condemn the MAP or should I just go ahead and replace it?
  8. Can a failed or failing MAP sensor cause my truck to be very sluggish down low and continuously the P0234 code? I once upon a time had an edge ez but it’s gone now. The boost elbow that came with it is still installed though. I have a fass lift pump and a FP gauge. Otherwise all stock. Truck feels like a total pig off the line and doesn’t feel like it starts making any power until 1800 rpm or so. Also has trouble holding highway speed in OD on any hills even empty.
  9. UPDATE I made a spacer to go between the TRE and knuckles out of poly bushings I had lying around. They look very similar to what is being sold as “the cure”. I removed the grease boots and put the spacers in place of the boots. I only have very limited testing but so far I’m very impressed. The steering feels tighter and much more responsive to wheel input. I will try to update again with some more long term results. I’m not sure how long the poly will last in there but I guess we will find out.
  10. Currently 285/70/17 BUT those have only been on for the last 12k. Before that was 235/85/16
  11. Yea it’s amazing. My truck only has 120k miles on it and basically everything has been replaced atleast once. We have rough winding roads where I live but still that shouldn’t shorten life span of parts that much. Around my area anyways dodge trucks have a very bad reputation for eating front end parts but I feel like that’s just a wide spread known thing
  12. Okay. I already intended to get hold of dynamic in the next couple days. I’m hoping to get to his shop on an upcoming road trip. I am running his VB and got the rest of my trans parts from him. Being a Chevy guy I don’t know these dodge trannys well enough to tell if it’s actually functioning/shifting properly or not so hoping he can give a second opinion if I go see him.
  13. I agree. They said they got it pretty good but with the roll in the tie rod will never be quite right. This is actually the second set of Napa joints. They replaced them under warranty (5yr/100000km) I only got about 10k/8months out of the first set. I would switch brands but new free parts are hard to pass up even if I do have to replace them more often. I will I’ll try the spacers out and see how that feels. If that doesn’t atleast make it somewhat better then I will have to start exploring other options for steering systems I guess
  14. Yea I took it in for alignment just a few days ago because I replaced the control arm bushings and steering parts. They said they got it as close as they could but with the tie rod rocking back and forth they couldn’t get it completely straight
  15. I feel the same about the 4x4 world I actually come from a world of built square body chevys (hydro assist crossover highsteer ftw)so I’m quite familiar with those sites. I was thinking maybe there was some specific reason this was happening or maybe some dodge specific part that would help this out. With some extra searching I’ve done and by what you say I will just make something like you suggested to prevent the tie rod from rolling.
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