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  1. why billet torque converter

    Okay I understand that after a certain amount of rotational speed/force things will distort. At what point does it become an issue for us especially with the low rotational speed of a Diesel engine? Is it the force applied on it or is it the speed at which it’s spinning or is it increased line pressures? Obviously engineers feel that a billet converter is not necessary in an engines stock form.. is a billet TC a sales gimmick up until a certain point and does anyone know what that point is?
  2. What is the benefit of a torque converter having a billet front cover or not? Im not questioning the internals of the TC as I understand what bigger/better components within the TC do but I’m just talking about the billet cover itself...
  3. P0713 (trans temp sensor high) P1763 (governor pressure sensor high) P0753 (overdrive solenoid circuit) P0753A (shift solenoid A electrical) I dont know what to make of these codes. Are they painting some sort of picture I can’t see? It feels like it’s shifting alright... I am just about to put a new TC and transgo kit in the valve body
  4. 98.5 47RE wiring

    I’ve actually spoken to Dynamic over message as well as a couple others and they have all said most likely the TC is the culprit. Mostly I’m just trying to confirm it for myself before I pull the transmission out and spend the money on a TC
  5. Looks like there’s 3 plugs on my trans. One I assume is the speed sensor which is near the back. Then there is the big sorta round plug up high pointing down and then there is one on an angle just above the pan. What is that one just above the pan? I’m dealing with my TC not u locking when it should. I unplugged the big round plug and it was still locked and stalled the engine. I unplugged the lower one above the pan and the motor wouldn’t even turn over. There’s 3 wires in that plug, one of them is very twisted up and has a bare spot.
  6. Not starting after warm

    Just thought I would add to this to say I just tested the lift pump over pressure situation. I have a fairly new stock lift pump btw. Got truck good and hot then shut it down. Result long cranking, sputtering, no start. I unplugged the lift pump and it immediately flashed right up. I then tried this over several times having no start unless lift pump unplugged. I have a fass comig and will be wiring up a delay relay when I install it along with a fuel pressure gauge.
  7. Not starting after warm

    Not sure it would help you or not but I’ve had luck cracking injectors when mine has hot start troubles. Even though I don’t think there’s air in the system
  8. Not starting after warm

    It’s probably not possible for a new stock lift pump to create the same over pressure hard starts??
  9. Trying to compare between an edge EZ, a smarty s03, and a quad but I’m not sure about it cause the guy doesn’t know what model it is because it came in a parts truck and he can’t find any switch in the cab. The box itself is sort of an odd shape but I don’t really know much about quad products to figure out what it is but based on the pics of the wiring he sent me I’m guessing it’s an xtz. Old model maybe?? Anyways truck will be a daily driver mostly stock with 50-75hp injectors and typical intake/exhaust mods at most. Just trying to figure out which one would best suit me. Leaning towards smarty but only because of the high idle..
  10. VP swap

    Awesome thank you
  11. I’ve searched and read a whole bunch of threads about swapping an HO(028) pump in place of an SO(027) pump the mixed answeres really leave a guy confused. So so I don’t care about high horsepower capabilities or anything like that I’m just interested in daily drivability with at most a small tune and some 50-75hp injectors but currently bone stock. My SO pump is dead, I have a known working HO pump. What can I expect by swapping the HO in place of the SO pump. Many say it works just fine and many others say it can not be done..
  12. High amp alternator

    Goes to show how much I know about this system I wasn’t even aware there were 2 grids. Would running only 1 grid instead of both in near or just below freezing temps be sufficient enough to get a easier/cleaner startup? Is disconnecting only 1 of the grids even possible? A 90A draw vs a 190A draw seems like it would make a big difference
  13. High amp alternator

    So there must be a way to monitor the draw from an original oem grid heater and then compare to a fresh one..? Obviously deterioration of connections and grounds throughout the entire system only amplified the problem
  14. High amp alternator

    I’m in the same boat as you on that I think. Now I wonder if just finding a Bosch replacement, replace and/or clean all the grounds and reducing electrical load at idle/install high idle.
  15. High amp alternator

    Actually got .09 - .12 with a better ground point and that was with grid heater disconnected, hvac off, radio off, lights off, basically anything I could turn off was. I think im going to try to find a new Bosch unit the one in there now is denso and then I’ll go through all the grounds and battery cables cleaning everything up. Could this much ac leakage over a prolonged period be a cause of apps, vp44 codes, and dead pedal problems as well as other various electrical quirks.