DylanJames

Yes it worked. It ended up being around 34ish degrees. Had to slot the destroked tone ring to line up right. Then with it slotted was able to fine tune it a bit to get her sounding right. Here's a pic of the bracket I made to attach the sensor mount to (the one that comes with the destroked kit) had to modify the destroked sensor mount a bit. Also used a cam sensor instead of a crank sensor. Same thing I believe just different sizes.

So I built a bracket for the crank sensor to line up in the position where it would naturally be in the block. Started it up and more white smoke than before. Looked at the old broken block to double check the position of the sensor and noticed the tone wheel notch on the broken crank was not 60 deg BTDC like I had read but instead was 30 deg. Weird, everything I read said it was 60deg. So the missing tooth should hit the sensor at around 60 deg after TDC of cyl #1. I had it hitting at 30 deg after. So took a lunch break gonna fix it in a bit I'll let y'all know

Thanks Jlbayes that's more what I was hoping to hear.

Ok so my truck is a 99 I don't know why my signature is coming up. You're saying converting electronics to 01 will be the easiest route? Or finding the correct year engine? Bummer

You mean keep the cam and gear case from the 01? I did swap them out from the 99. But I still needed the tach. That's why I tried the destroked kit. All 99 electronics.

So I've been battling this 01 into a 99 swap on my weekends for the past month or so. (Didn't know I bought the wrong Year) Got her runnin. No tach. Bought the destroked kit which BTW is not made for this swap. Slotted the holes so that the missing 36th tooth is 60deg BTDC. Drilled out the sensor bracket to fit the stock crank sensor. Soldered in some more wire for length and viola. I now have my tach working but I'm blowin white-ish smoke. Unplug the relocated crank sensor and no smoke. I'm thinking that my crank sensor being about 120deg from where it would normally sit in the block is fudgin me up. I'm sure the tone ring is lined up right but I guess the ecm needs to see that gap at a specific place in the rotation. My plan is to build a bracket to line up my sensor excactly the same as where it sits in the block. My question is what all does that gap in the tone ring have an effect on (as far as timing and all that)? Do y'all think this bracket idea will fix me up? I appreciate any info Thanks!! A little back story.... would've swapped the cranks but she broke in the 99 hence the swap. Tore the block all to hell. But she would still fire right up and run. Lacking a bit of power of course. Haha