DanByrd2

Update: Multifunction switch was bad. 60 bucks later, everything works. Also, 2 of those butt connectors were loose, which was causing some chaos. Also, I ordered and installed a new fluidampr. New ess got put on and now the tach seems to work fine!

And they are aftermarket LED's from superbrightleds.com, so of course that wiring isn't factory either.

Bit of an update. I installed the new CPS today. I did regain the tach but it is definitely inaccurate. I believe the harmonic balancer is fubar, from a bird's eye view it seems to have a good wobble to it, which I assume is causing the tach to be inaccurate. Didn't run the truck long enough to see if the AC works. The harmonic balancer has me creeped out. I did shed some wiring tonight. The middle two switches I traced to some aftermarket rear lights. Pulled all that garbage out. At some point the PO had a stereo system hooked up. I traced all that wiring and yanked it out too. Under looks a lot better now. Still no luck with the headlights yet, I checked all fuses and everything was fine. I check all the spliced wires with a test light and only found one wire to that is hot, and it is hot all the time.... I looked at the wiring diagram moparman posted in the above referenced forum post. None of the wiring colors my harness has matched the diagram. I threw in the towel tonight, tomorrow I will try again.

Well, I was assuming otherwise. A gentleman on comp-d informed me I have a PCM for a 98 12v 5 speed, after finding all those connectors I was thinking the PO spliced in a 12v harness to a 24v light switch. I felt like that switch was the same as my old 24v, but I'm not 100% positive. It also makes sense that it has a 98 12v harness, because at some point the PO installed a 12v harmonic balancer. The CPS sensor is for a 98 12v. My new sensor will be here tomorrow, I'm hoping I will gain a tach & AC after I install it. If it doesn't fix the ac/tach, I'm honestly considering selling it and getting something that's not as Frankenstein... But the other part of me sees the thousands upon thousands someone has put into it already, hard to let go of a truck that has all the base upgrades done already. Sorry, I never answered your question. The far left switch I've only managed to get it to do anything 1 time. I turned the ignition off and the Airdog kept running, flipped that toggle and the Airdog turned. Other than that one occurrence I don't know what it's function is. That was also the only time the Airdog has done that. The smaller switch, 2nd to left, I was told is for the exhaust brake. The 3rd bigger switch I have no clue what it does, I've flipped it on/off numerous times and I haven't seen it do anything. The far right toggle switch seems to bog down the engine when it's switched on. I don't know what it does but when I flip it on, the engine bogs down for a split second and then smooths out. One day, when patience is abundance, I'll give all this an honest effort to trace all this electrical out. Tonight was not the night.

Orange wire goes into a rats nest of wiring. 4 switches, with wiring that seem to intermingle with each other, via relays? Failed inspection due to no high beam indicator on dash, fixed that problem. Asked the wife to drive my truck to get it inspected again, this time no headlights at all, but they worked over the weekend. Pulled out the dimmer deal and found this

Yea that's one of the problems, cluster works intermittently at best.

It is a G56. And yes you must have missed it, the cluster works intermittently at best, and "work" is a relative term. The video explains it all

No kidding. I googled gauge clusters and eBay is one of the first listings. One of the sellers advertises "pick your mileage"... Lol. On a more serious note, I went to get the truck inspected today and shot a video of the gauge cluster and what my Obdlink MX was seeing. The only code being thrown is IMG_0075.MOV IMG_0075.MOV 1492. Battery temp sensor. IMG_0075.MOV

No horn, just a compressor and small tank, hoses run all over. I was in the middle of trying trace all this rats nest and the neighbors came over. The factory cup holder in the dash flops down into the shifter and renders it unuseable. Pretty sweet, and the guy told me the cluster is not the original. I assume because the guy who did all this work didn't want the gear indicator on the cluster?? Or maybe it was causing issues, I dont know.

Hmm, it does have an exhaust brake. I completely forgot it too, until I read your post.

Can anyone tell me what this is? I was tracing the rats nest of wires I inherited and found this. That spring extends behind the accelerator pedal. I might add I'm almost positive this truck was born an automatic and now has a G56

I'm almost considering saving up a chunk of money and taking it somewhere very reputable with electrical. The mechanical side of things I'm comfortable with, electrical I'm not. I ordered new battery terminals last night, I plan on doing WT's mod. Then I may try n figure out what all this mess is. Or I may let someone knowledgeable do it for me... I

Just dreading what I have in my future. I don't remember having all this mess of wire everywhere in my previous truck. Ugh... Battery terminals have screws jammed in them on the passenger side to keep everything snug. Driver side positive post must have 5 additional lugs hooked to it.

Well, I did the gauge cluster test and received every code there is

Ehh, I'm not sure that the current one is bad, I'm looking for insight on how to diagnose it. Also, I'm curious about the cluster displaying the proper rpm's with a completely different transmission. I also forgot to mention the truck was born an automatic. Which may be another factor in everything. I discovered that bit of knowledge when my son tried opening the 2nd set of cup holders (clue #1) and they hit the shifter. Part of me want to replace the whole dash so it's a little more "normal" and not so Frankenstein.

Ill don't know of a 2nd gen that isn't a project lol

P-pumped, S363 turbo, 70 up injectors, G56 transmission, Airdog 100, leveled on 35x20's

This is my 4th 24 valve, and honestly out of all 4 this one is in the best shape. BUT we all know how quickly the little things add up. Dash, heater core, evaporator, dash bezel, AC system???, head liner, gauge cluster, seat foam & cover, did I forget anything? Lol I actually bought an 09 Mega Cab because I thought I wanted the new bells & whistles and the extra room. After 10 months of payments, not including 11k in repairs that my warranty didn't cover, I decided I wanted my old 24 valve back lol. Well, the guy that bought my old truck wouldn't sell it back so I bought this one. But it has many upgrades none of my others had. Anywho.... Got off subject...

Been lurking the forum forever but haven't posted much because I can usually find the answer. Anyways, I just bought a Frankenstein 99 Dodge that's p-pumped, with a G56 transmission. It also has an S363 turbo with 70 hp injectors, and it's leveled on 35x20's. Someone has spent a significant amount of time and money upgrading this truck, but it also came with a lot of issues. (I might add that the body and paint on the truck is 9/10, only 1 noticeable dent.) For instance, the front end is loose as hell, but the truck came with all the parts to do a front end rebuild. The dash is busted all to hell, the AC doesn't work at all, the gauge cluster doesn't function, headliner is sagging, oil leaking from somewhere, and the interior bezels and consoles are tore up. My question is regarding the gauge cluster, the guy I bought the truck from claimed that the current cluster is a junkyard special that worked about 8 months and then quit on him. I'm curious if some of the upgrades are compatible with the stock cluster or if there is an underlying issue with the truck such as a bad ground somewhere. I guess I'm mainly curious if I purchase a different cluster, with a G56 transmission will the cluster display the proper rpm's and speed? On a side note, with 35" tires, can a dealership reprogram the truck for an oversized tire so the speedometer will work correctly? Or would I need to buy something aftermarket like an Edge Insight? Sorry for the long winded post, thanks in advance.

So I haven't traced the wiring yet (too damn cold and windy) but I did borrow a scanner. I got the following codes. P1693 P1698 and after I turned the truck on I got P0602.

I'll check it out and report back tomorrow.

Long time lurker, first time poster. Bear with me fellas. I purchased a 2002 with a flatbed for 3k (thought I was getting a decent deal) with wore out tires, an overcharging problem and a relatively bad oil leak. I knew I was going to have to dump some coin into the truck but now the frustration is getting to me. The first weeks I had the truck I didn't do much besides clean it, the guy I bought it from abused the truck to death and didn't fix much of anything. The guy would unplug the alternator, drive to work, plug the alternator in at lunch and let it charge for a bit and then unplug it and drive home. Who knows how long he did this for. Cue me. I did t think much of the overcharging problem, figured it would just take a new alternator and I'd be done with it... hah! The alternator on it was supposedly new, I had it tested by Napa and it passed with flying colors. I put it back in. So then I start digging... I find that every fuse under the hood is the wrong size, the 140 alternator fuse is jumped with a metal piece, and every bulb in the cab is blown. *this is when I seriously questioned my purchase*... No biggie, my buddy is a certified GM mechanic, I ask him for advice, he says check batteries first and foremost. So... batteries were beyond shot, I replaced both of them and of course nothing was cured. So... I get impatient and research the problem, which leads me to PCM issues. Me and my infinite wisdom decide to buy a used PCM, my thought being I would take it to a dealership and have it reprogrammed. *cue my impatience again* One day after work, I get the bright idea to plug in this used PCM and see if it still overcharges... I plug it in and sure enough, it Overcharges. Now I'm getting "no bus" on the dash. I plug the original PCM back in, now I'm getting "no bus" on that one too. FML. As the frustration mounted I decided to leave it alone for a while. A few weeks later I decide I'm gonna take it to the dealership, but first it needs tires. The mechanic my company uses sells tires and will cut me a deal, so of course I limp it over there. I began telling him about everything and he starts to try n diagnose it for me. He S getting no signal from either PCM, and neither of them are charging... he turns me onto NPC out of Houston for a new PCM. I figure sweet, he knows what he's talking about, I'll do that. 700 dollars and 48 hours later, I have a vin matched, brand spanking new PCM. I disconnect the batteries, plug it in, connect the batteries and fire it up... I let it idle a minute or so and it doesn't overcharge. Hell yea it's fixed... nope. Today I decided I'd take it to pick up my son from school, I get around the block and the volt meter pegs out again. I drove it back home, parked it and hopped in my 99. *sigh* What's next guys? Sorry for the lengthy post. I will add that prior to installing the new PCM I did replace all the fuses with new, correct sized fuses. Also, once I plugged in the new one, my "no bus" went away, but I had every other light on the dash on, and with the original PCM I only had the brake light on and the tranny light.