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Ronman, I presume you went this route (FASS pump, big hose kit, Cat fuel filter) to save a few $$$, figuring the fuel/air separation feature of the FASS/AirDog systems wasn't worth the premium?The CAT filter head pictured shows 6 ports - what are the two smaller ports for, the ones closest to the mounting flange?Are you planning on mounting the fuel pump directly to the frame rail or will you use rubber isolators for sound isolation?Of the two systems (FASS, AD), which is the quietest?Thanks for your time,Joe in St Louis

If you buy on-line from Advance Auto Parts, as you are going through the check-out it will ask you for any discount codes you want to apply. I found by using the code "Visa" I got a $50 discount on an Airtex fuel pump. I used the code for some brake rotors too - they were like $170 each so I bought one at a time and saved $50 on each one.This was done before Christmas so I don't know if the discount code is still active, but it might be worth a try.Good Luck,Joe in St Louis

Does sound like a funny shift schedule (1st, 2nd, 3rd, 3rd+TC lock, o/d with TC unlock, o/d + TC lock). Is this schedule common with aftermarket shift kits/valve bodies? Just trying to get smart on 47RE transmission upgrades prior to pulling the trigger.Thanks,Joe in St Louis

This is what I used... http://cgi.ebay.com/NOSHOK-2-5-Dial-1-4-NPT-0-30-PSI-Pressure-Gauge-NIB-/370204766498?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5631ec7122 No problem with the transaction - square deal with fast shipping. The gauge has a stainless case, it is liquid filled (extended service life and reliability where pulsation, vibration and shock are present), and accuracy is ±1.5% Full Scale, ASME Grade A. Purchased the Weatherhead needle valve from NAPA (~$8), a nylon oil pressure gauge tube kit from Advance Auto Parts (~$6), and a brass 1/8"male pipe to 1/4" female street elbo from Home Depot (~$4) to hook it up. I used the cap from a black Rustoleum spray bomb as a gauge holder. Mounted the gauge on top of the dash against the L/H windshield pillar, held in place with a dab of hot melt glue on the pillar & one on the dash. It all works just fine. I probably could have gotten away with not using the needle valve, but I find it useful to bleed air out of the fuel filter after a filter change. It is not backlit, but I also installed a warning light that illuminates when pressure goes below 5 psi. Look good, last long time! Joe in St Louis AKA "Squeaks as He Walks"

Appreciate everyone's comments. I took the truck out for a ride & it stops fine without the pedal going down too much, but it still seems a little soft. Makes me concerned with how it will react with a load hooked up.I've been playing around with this stuff for a long time too. To give you a clue I started out with a '48 Chrysler New Yorker Club Coupe that I paid $15 for......No, I'm not that old! (that was in 1972).I thought about the "sucking air back in past the bleeders" thing too. Possible but I doubt it because of the fluid head pressure on the bleeder (hose going uphill for 18"), and if it did happen, gravity still allowed fluid flow from the reservoir out the caliper until the bleeder was tightened. And I doubt if the problem is due to worn out pads/shoes - rotors & pads are new. The reservoir was never allowed to go dry so it didn't suck air in that way. I'm wondering if when the pedal is returning to the up position after a pump, if the cup on the M/C piston collapses and allows air to enter into the system from the pedal end of the M/C bore. If that be the case then a power bleed should be adequate to flush out any trapped air bubbles. I probably should flush the rear system first before I get too carried away. If no joy, then I might try to build by own bleeder bomb - I'll keep you posted. Joe in St Louis

I think I screwed up. I was replacing brake pads/rotors and thought the brake fluid could use refreshing (old & dark). I sucked out all the old fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster & refilled it with new fluid. I was alone & don't have a bleeder bomb so this is the process I used. I attached a clear vinyl hose to the rt/front bleeder, ran it uphill about 18" then down into a container with the end submerged in fluid. I opened the bleeder & pumped the brake pedal (engine off) to the floor about 10 times, not closing off the bleeder in between pumps, occasionally checking & replenishing the reservoir. Slow, deliberate strokes to the floor, remove foot and allow the pedal to return on its own, wait a few seconds in between pumps to let the fluid recharge into the MC bore. Fluid ran out nice & clean. Repeated the process on the left front. Did not observe any air in the hose coming out of the caliper, nor did I see any air being drawn into the caliper when the pedal was released. Buttoned everything up - no muss, no fuss.After the job was done, I started the truck and with power assist the pedal can be pushed to the floor, not so with engine off. No brake warning light on the dash. I'm new to the truck, not familiar with hyd power assist, but I assume I still should get a solid pedal. I guess I got some air into the system, not sure how. Weather has been too wet to crawl around under the truck lately so I haven't tried bleeding the rear brakes. Haven't taken it out for a road test either - I think it would stop but with diminished performance. Just dropping a line to see if there are any peculiar tricks to bleeding the system on these trucks. All of the plumbing on the wheel well associated with the 4 wheel ABS looks like a good place for an air bubble to get caught up in. Appreciate any suggestions.Joe in St Louis

Live Oak, For a fuel filter I got a part number from Geno's garage (Fleetguard) & talked to a local place called Truck Pro - an auto parts chain for big rigs. They crossed the number to a Baldwin PF7751 (earlier fuel filter canister) & cost was $12.35. BW Web Express sells them at $15.72 each (case price) - still much better than NAPA who wanted $30!Thanks,Joe in St Louis

AH64ID,The Platinum was what I considered at first, but with the discount I got the Airtex was a better choice for me - at this time. Are you using a Platunum pump now? If so, which GPH did you go with? Seems that the 150GPH unit costs the same as the 95 - not sure what the difference is or why one would opt for the 95. One person told be the only difference is a spring - not sure if I buy that. Pressure maybe, but flow? I may go that route in the future, not so much for the pressure/flow but rather for the air removal factor.Thanks for your input,Joe in St Louis

Yesterday the new sensor showed up. Bolted it on, plugged it in, and the abs light is no longer illuminated - didn't even have to drive it down the road! Glad to have it fixed.I did take a resistance reading on the sensor prior to installation. I only have a digital multimeter, and when taking a reading in the ohms function it registered open, but I've had problems before with taking readings on ignition coils using a digital VOM - need to get a Simpson meter. I switched it to the diode check function and was able to read a resistance of 1.106 ohms.So for troubleshooting a sensor, check for continuity, then physical damage.Joe in St Louis

Well it's been a busy week. I ended up going with the Airtex pump mounted in the OEM location. I was able to score a good discount coupon for Advance Auto. If you make your purchase on-line you are able to enter a discount code as you are checking out. If you enter "VISA" you can get a $50 discount on purchases over $150. They had the Airtex for $161-$50 = $111. Picked it up locally, no muss, no fuss. Another thing I learned is the early production pumps were delivered without the additional suction side elbow. I called the Airtex Tech Line & they told me the production date is listed on the name tag on the box in the lower right corner. The number in my box was 038, which translates into the 3rd week of 2008 - an early production unit. They sent me another hardware kit which included the elbow, but I was able to do the install without it.It was a little tough to get in that area of the truck, mostly because you can't get two hands down there at the same time. When removing the Carter pump, the studs backed out of the pump instead of the nuts coming off the stud. Once I overcame that, the Airtex pump wouldn't fit into position without removing the LP-to-filter fuel line first. I would have liked to replace the banjo sealing washers on the filter, but I had to reuse the old ones - luckily no leaks. The truck started without too much difficulty and the FP gauge was showing 14 psi at idle. I was actually hoping for more, so I decided to replace the fuel filter. After doing that the idle FP is 17psi. Haven't had a chance to take it out for a road test, but revving the engine only allowed the pressure to drop to 14 psi. Next Spring when the weather is better, I may move the pump down by the tank, but I'm pretty happy with my results.Thanks to all who responded & provided good suggestions. Getting more familiar with the truck & more confident in doing my own repairs.Joe in St Louis

New owner & still getting accustomed to my truck ('99 3500). I was reading another thread here in the 24v powertrain forum & the poster mentioned the check gauges notification coming on in his cluster, as if that was an indication of a problem. I noticed this notification on my truck; it will temporarily illuminate immediately after start-up (all gauges indicate normal), and will go out after about 5 seconds or so. I figured this was normal operation but after reading about all the troubles the other fellow was having I now wonder if it is. Is there anything I should be following up with? Appreciate your patience & help, Joe in St Louis

Great reply with regard to the Airtex fuel pump, especcially the Rock Auto link. Naturally this alternative retains the OEM filter/heater assy. I have a seepage leak at the grommet where the heater wires pass through the filter housing. Is it possible to repair/replace the grommet?If the Airtex casn develop 20 psi with the frame mounting position, is there a need to address a possible over-pressure condition with a regulator or some other device?Thanks again for the leads,Joe in St Louis

Installed a 0-30 psi gauge yesterday. I tapped into the filter housing; the '99 has two 1/8" pipe thread ports on the top of the filter bracket, inboard port is post-filter. I used Mike's recommended Weatherhead needle valve feeding into a tee; pressure line to one port, Kohler engine oil pressure switch (NAPA SME 2509927S) to the remaining port to activate a low pressure warning light. Good news is all works well. Bad news is low pressure (big surprise here,eh?); 10 psi engine not running, 7-8 psi engine idling, 5 psi around town & 65 mph cruise on highway.Solution is not all that clear. Presently the truck is stock, 173k miles, seems to run fine, no starting problems, no history as to whether this is original IP/LP, or if replaced when it was done. There is some seepage at the grommet where the fuel heater wires enter the filter bracket, and there is a fuel leak from the top of the tank that went unnoticed until the tank was filled. In addition, the tank only took 25 gallons to fill when the low fuel light illuminated at an indicated 1/8 tank.I'm looking at an aftermarket LP, possibly FASS platinum, and dropping the tank to address the leak/sender problem. From what I've read I should expect that the IP's internal diaphragm is cracked, to be prepared to experience hard starting issues at a minimum with a new lift pump, and perhaps IP failure in the near future. Not sure if I should keep the OEM fuel filter to retain the fuel heater & WIF indicator, or even if repair of the leaking grommet is possible. I'm not comfortable driving it now for fear of IP failure, but what to do with the full load of fuel? Looking for guidance. In the mean time I will move the gauge to the filter inlet to look for pressure drop across the filter - won't do a thing for the IP's diaphragm, but may indicate a blocked filter & give me the faith to drive the truck until the tank is empty. Thanks for the help,Joe in St Louis

Thanks Dripley for the heads-up. I looked at Rock Auto but the sensor I needed (3500, 2wd, rt front w.o. solid front axle) was listed at $172.79. I'm sticking with $135 from Mopar Wholesale.Joe in St Louis

1999 3500 2WD with 4 wheel ABS Got an ABS warning light (along with a brake warning light). Rear sensor was replaced by previous owner - no fix. Took to dealer to run the diagnostics, results point to a R/H front ABS wheel sensor. Before I order the part (OEM MSRP = $200), I was wondering if there was a method to check the sensor with a meter or something. Is it possible that the sensor is just dirty with brake dust, or do the connectors get corroded? I guess I could compare the ohms resistance reading from the rt front with the value taken from left front. Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated. Thanks, Joe in St Louis --- Update to the previous post... Today I did some investigating. First I did a visual to ensure the wires didn't looked damaged (no problems), then disconnected the QD on the Rt fender well & tried to take a resistance reading on the sensor (open-no continuity). Went ahead & removed the Rt front tire/caliper/hub to expose the sensor. The sensor was cracked wide open in two places - looked like it had filled with water which froze & busted open. There also was ferrous magnetic fuzz all over it. I think I found my problem. Cheapest replacement part was from Mopar Wholesale Parts http://www.mopar-wholesale.com/mopar-parts-online?gclid=CNqhvfWaxKUCFY64Kgod9zrIYg at about $135 + $12 shipping. OEM parts at a good price, or so it seems. Plan on calling tomorrow & ordering. Joe in St Louis

Thanks for the helpful recommendations. I did call a dealer, he did a VIN look-up & told me it was equipped with keyless entry - forgot to ask about the security system. I ordered a transmitter ($60) & had them program it for me ($29.99). Have not determined if it has the security system yet. Jut got the title transferred, paid taxes, & licensed today - check book took a hit alpha!Appreciate the help!Joe in St Louis

Yes, both Airdog & FASS systems look like the real deal, & lots of testimonials out there. Might be the way I go too. First things first - fuel pressure gauge (parts in the mail).Another couple questions if I may, specific to my '99.Looks like the installation of an aftermarket lift pump system with filter & water separator makes the OEM fuel filter obsolete. I've seen examples of installations that bypass the OEM filter & route the discharge from the lift pump directly to the VP44. So what about the fuel heater; isn't it in the OEM filter assy.? Or is that a water-in-fuel sensor who's wires are passing through the grommet in the top of the filter assy (I have seepage there)? Is the heater/water sensor unnecessary (St Louis area, seldom below 0 deg F.)? What about the ECM; is it looking for an input from the heater and/or water sensor? If there is an open in that circuit will it turn on the "check engine light"?Thanks for your patience - appreciate the help!Joe in St Louis

Been reading up on the problematic OEM lift pump & aftermarket solutions. I have to say I'm a bit confused as to why the aftermarket pumps have a relief valve. I can understand that there needs to be a return to the tank from the lift pump to dump the air that has been removed from the fuel. But doesn't the OEM fuel system have a pressure relief valve that maintains supply pressure, and bleeds the excess into the fuel return line at the injection pump? Also doesn't the excess fuel used to cool the IP? If the pressure relief valve on the LP opens up, what happens to the required extra flow to the IP? Is the OEM pressure relief/return system overwhelmed by the aftermarket pump's flow so it cannot control pressure? So to compensate the aftermarket LP pressure relief is set at a slightly higher value than the OEM system's pressure relief valve, acting like a secondary pressure relief? That set-up may allow all the flow the OEM system can handle but prevent an over pressurization of the IP - just guessing here. I saw a YouTube video Michael made showing a slow flow of fuel running into a bucket out of an open hose. Does that represent the 70% of supply flowing back to the tank? Thanks for your time,Joe in St Louis

Thanks for the replies. Crunch time here with information overload. I'll get it sorted out in time.OK, after I get the correct range gauges installed, what sort of nominal readings should I be looking for?Appreciate your patience,Joe in St Louis

Sorry for the beginner question but I'm not having a lot of luck with the search feature. I'd like to install some gauges - fuel pressure, boost, & EGT. I understand best accuracy is achieved by selecting a gauge where the engine's normal operating range is in the middle of the gauge's range. But I don't know what is the engine's normal operating range for boost & EGT ('99 3500 2wd auto 4.10). The truck is stock now but I may boost things later for MPGs & towing an RV. Next mod after the gauges will be a decent aftermarket lift pump (100gph).As I recall, before the Turbo is where the probe should be installed. On my first gen that required drilling & tapping the manifold - does the same apply on the 24 valve?Appreciate the help,Joe in St Louis

Already submitted a couple posts so I thought I should do the intro. Recently purchased my second Ram Turbo Diesel. In '03-'04 I had a first gen dually that came with a 30 ft 5th wheel RV. My wife & I are looking to get back into the RV scene, and we've started with the truck. Lots of new info to learn about the 24 valve machines - this seems like a good place to get smart.Been wrenching on all my own equipment for 40+ years. Aero engineeer for the Navy (F-18 support equipment). Long time hobby has been restoration of vintage British & european motorcycles, specifically Nortons, BMWs, Moto Guzzi's, and Ducatis from the '70s.Appreciate the help & look forward to helping others - Thanks Mike!Joe in St Louis'99 3500 QCLB DRW, Auto, 4.10 Axle, K&N, otherwise Stock

Good info Mike, New guy here, new owner, first post. Came across the thread while searching the forums for info on gauges. Questions:1) When you refer to a needle valve, is this like the needle valve used to tap into my water line in my house for the refrigerator's ice maker? Brass, tee handle, 1/8" NPT male to 1/4" compression fitting.2) Is this a better way to go than using a snubber that is offered by the gauge manufacturer?3) Is it OK to mount the sender directly to the engine, or should it be remotely mounted to the firewall/inner fender?4) Is it recommended to tap the fuel pressure at the fuel filter or would the input banjo at the injector pump be better?Appreciate the help,Joe in St Louis'99 3500 QCLB, DRW, 2WD, Auto, 4.10 Axle, Stock

New member, new owner, first post. Picked up a '99 3500 quad yesterday. Been reading the owner's manual and it seems the truck may be equipped with the remote keyless entry system, but I have no transmitters. Reasons I believe the truck is equipped with the system is that the doors automatically locked shortly after pulling out of the parking lot, and the interior lights stay lit for aprox 30 seconds after the door is closed. The truck also has many other options like power windows, power seat with lumbar adj, overhead console with compass/trip computer, auto dimming mirror, etc., so RKE would seem like a logical option in this truck. I'd like to get a transmitter (or two) - are they strictly a dealer item?Thanks for your time and patience,Joe in St Louis