ISX

Got any specs on that red V8 beast?

http://youtu.be/FYZrjUV9Fe4

Oh I understand, it just doesn't seem to be something factored into the GCWR. But I would like to know why some 3500's are lower or higher than the comparable 2500. And why the chassis cab has an ungodly increase in weight rating. I'll have to red up on it more and see if I can find the specific determining factors.

Theres all kinds of formulas all over the internet with different coefficients. According to that one, my truck can pull 19,000.......... You gotta remember that the 2 tires mean it can hold more weight, but that doesn't mean pull more weight.. The dually really just gives you the ability to haul something with a heavier tongue weight. I think a lot of the trailer weight things are derived from the trucks ability to haul it, such as the transmission, cooling system, brakes, etc. The 4.10's help the engine out but you can get that in the 2500 or 3500 and adding 2 tires doesn't mean the engines gonna have to work any less, harder actually.

Eh, video's gonna take forever. Basically my 1st choice for you is chrome, 2nd is firefox. Chrome is completely automatic at everything and seems to be as compatible with everything as firefox is. Firefox has a lot of add on pop ups that drive me nuts so I usually don't even install it on computers. I love opera but I use chrome as a backup since opera is probably the least compatible browser, not much of an issue 95% of the time but some things work better on the other browsers. I'll post the vid when it's done in case you want to see what each one looks like and hear me ramble on about them.

I'll make a video for you Russ, give me an hour (might be long, take a while to upload).

Of course it only works out on the example I picked :banghead: The negative numbers mean the 3500 has more.. So yeah, no clue now. This is kinda interesting though http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/978358-gcwr.html

If you look at Mike's pic, I am going to assume the 3 columns are GCWR, shortbed trailer weight and then longebed trailer weight. Now compare the 2 and you can see that the same configuration 2500 can have a higher trailer weight. They are the same trucks with 2 more wheels so although the payload can be more (11,000lbs GVWR compared to 8,800) you still have to abide by the same brakes and whatever else they factor in to get the GCWR. For instance. The 2500 4 wheel drive furthest column to the right 5 spd 3.55 is 13,250lb trailer. Below the 2500 row is the 3500 stuff and for the same configuration it is 12,950lb trailer. So there is a 300lb difference that is probably the extra wheels/tries and fender flares, along with those spacer things on the front wheels.

I am not sure the EPA is all bad. I don't understand the mileage bit though. However, there is a guy here from Indonesia and he said one of the biggest changes here was that he could breath. They all drive 2 stroke motorcycles over there and crappy cars and apparently the smog is unreal.

No I stared at it long enough and got it figured out. They are hitting off the starter relay power and going straight over to the other side to the coil. With the transformer they are running the power from the starter relay to the transformer then out of the transformer to the coil. The transformers always use H and X for the primary and secondary, though primary and secondary can be exchanged. Whichever side has the power is the primary.

Well there is no x3....now you see why I wanted it closer. I also don't see where C3 is. I think it's on the right below the contactor coil.Anyhow H1 and H3 go together and make one wire, and H2 and H4 go together and make the other wire. It goes right past it on 220 so you will also have to hook the X1 and X2 sides up. If the wire is wired for 110 as well, it should all work.

Can you get a closer pic of what I show in the pic? What you need to do is very simple it's just a matter of connecting the transformer up in a different configuration.

a 3rd gen CR can handle that. With the water tank full I got 12,987lbs and a 2009 2500 will do 13,600lbs with the right truck configuration and a 3500 will do 18,550lbs. This is both the 2009 model year. This seems to go back on what I said but I have been trying different 3500 configurations and the only one that is more than the 2500 is the chassis cab, which is a LOT more for some reason. Something about that one must have upgraded brakes or who knows what to allow for the much higher GCWR. If you read on the internet there is a lot of grey area with legality. Some cops just look at your weight on the license plate, others look in the door jamb....theres plenty of reasons why there are 1st gens pulling 20k lb trailers and getting away with it. I used to work at a place with 3500 trucks that had 36k lb plates.. The GCWR is around 20,000lbs and in missouri the plates go from 18 to 24 to 36 so in legal terms there was no reason for anything higher than 24k on all those trucks. But the cops seem to just look at the plates here.

Actually a 1 ton gains you nothing but payload in the bed.. Then the extra weight of 2 more wheels means you're down another 100-200lbs, meaning a 2500 can actually pull more. The tongue weight can be more with the 3500, but the GCWR (Combined weight of truck and trailer) is still the same.

I wonder how long the injection lasts. I have a P7100 here lol. The spill port is only closed for maybe 1/4" if that, at WOT. I just need to figure out the degree where the spill port is closed and the degree where it is opened again. It would be neat to see how many picoseconds or something it is actually injecting per stroke. Actually, do you know ahhh yes 486us. Hmmm. Did you calculate those max pressures for the P7100 or did you see them somewhere? I *think* I can calculate them......

You said that the VP44 and P7100 both get to a max of 17,000psi or something. Well the pop pressure is 260 bar ~ 3770psi on my truck. So, the pressure is probably over 260 bar for a given amount of time, especially when floored and at redline. Does that mean that the injector stays open like a CR injector, as in no popping? Or do you think it pops at the usually million mph. I know it goes really fast on a pop tester but that's no where near the rate the engine pumps it.

I got all the RPM values for my speeds and my MPG's are pretty consistent so here is sort of a reference for mine.

In my opinion I think I would keep using the SLA's.. I mean they are heavy but eh they probably will survive as long as a lithium and when you have to replace them they cost $75 and the lithium costs $300 soooo yeah.. Lithium batteries don't seem to really die but rather last shorter and shorter until the fully charged battery goes dead in 5ft. Maybe the bigger lithium batteries are different but the way I see it, they are still lithium batteries so I would think they would still suffer the same weaknesses.

I don't understand this "commanded" fuel thing. I mean you press the pedal and it gives it more fuel.. Or are you just stating snapshots at certain throttle percentages? Basically we need a reference for yours... All I can do is mpg things since I can't measure fuel flow without buying sensors. In other words, go certain speeds in the highest gear and note the RPM, mph, and mm3. It should be identical to the MPG you get. For instance, at 1800RPM and your summer tires in 6th gear you should be at 65.3mph. At 34mm3 that works out to 22.4mpg. At 48.3mm3 it works out to 15.8mpg. I just want to see how legit all this is seeing as how you can monitor the fuel rate it would be interesting to see if it works out on the calculator.

Hmmm, question number 2. For those with elements (the little air filter looking jobbers), are they always black when you take them out? Mine go in white and come out black. W&F talked about the difference between the blackness as one is bacteria and one is just normal, I was wondering if you guys all have black filters as well.

Well seeing as how I just do 1 injection at a time I would say 10* to 18*, as in 8* of variation. I've noticed the same thing. I drive at 2000RPM 70mph with our trailer everywhere. Without it there is no load at all and I see a pretty linear mileage drop with speed. I added something just now that you can play with as well, tells MPG. Only edit the yellow things on all of these...rest has formulas. Oh and at the bottom I wanted to compare the actual size so side of cube mm means uh, the side lol. Then I wanted to see how big if it was a pea size (sphere) so that shows the diameter of the sphere. Those are based on the mm3 per injection (B15).I played with the RPM/MPH/MPG just now and I put in actual values as in 55mph, 27mpg, 1611rpm, and thats 26.5mm3. However, if I change just the MPG to 20, it goes to 35.8mm3. In other words, it doesn't take much and that makes me ask how accurate this edge display is? Like I noticed on the scangauge it has a refresh rate of like 3 seconds and the RPM seems to be a little iffy. If the edge isn't showing accuracy of at least every 1mm3 if not 0.1mm3, then I don't know how trusting it is. I mean my calculator is over the course of a tankful MPG run so everything is calculated and basically dead nuts. Basing mm3 off only something that gives live feedback that has a crappy data range isn't really accurate results. I have no idea though so I assume it gives good results but I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. I put in all digital gauges for my EGT/ECT/RPM and I love them. Dead nuts results and I can set the RPM gauge to 6 digits. Meaning it can measuring 000.000 or 0000.00 if I want. I did a bunch of trig and put 4 magnets around the damper to maybe get a more accurate reading or a faster one. I didn't really notice a difference but if it has 4 inputs per revolution then I figure that's gotta get its accuracy way up there. I can actually see the rpm drop of the alternator from just rolling the window down (2rpm). One thing I am really curious about is how even the engine runs. The RPM is pretty constant in the whole digits, varying barely 1, but one decimal place in is all over the place and I'm not sure if I'm actually seeing the variances between piston power strokes from injectors wearing different, whatever. I would like to stick my thing on a brand new 6.7 and see what it does. Injection Amount.xlsx

I'm not sure I ever posted this but it might help you out. mm3 is one cubic millimeter and also one MICROliter. cm3 is one cubic centimeter and is one MILLIliter. Maybe you already knew this, it will help someone else. Anyhow this will show why we use microliters. 1 milliliter = 1000 micoliters. So if you multiplied all those mm3 numbers by 1000 you would get the CC's you are used to.. But they are too big to work with so they use microliters.

Yeah yeah stop avoiding the question lol.

With a will theres a way. But would it be better than injection timing?

I wonder if you could have dynamic timing with variable pop pressures. I know it affects the timing but I wonder if doing it that way is efficient or if the droplets become so big that some of it starts to not burn. Apparently bigger droplets retard timing since its like trying to get a bucket of water to boil with a lighter. The smaller droplets is more like a spray can with each mist particle going across the flame and turning to steam. Drastic examples but you get the point. I just wonder how efficient that method would be.