ISX

I don't know your other name I just saw that video, saw duck hunting, I said oh hellll thats what Dorkweed needs!

I have my turbo completely dissected and I am not a big fan of regular bolts on exhaust manifold/turbo parts. They get hot/cold and break off or the bolt head strips out. Of course I broke 3 off Anyhow here are my options: [*]Hardened Hex Bolt 10.9 ($1.45) [*]Socket Head Cap Screw (allen) 12.9 ($1.15) [*]Socket Head Cap Screw (allen) Stainless ($2.00) Prices were for one size bolt that I remembered comparing. I went ahead and got #2 since they were cheapest but mainly because they were 12.9 grade. I stared at the stainless ones for 5 min but I am not sure how they would compare with the 12.9 allen screws in the long run of exhaust manifold abuse. Anyone know how they would all compare for the application I am using them for? I have used the 12.9 allens in the manifold before for a temporary turbo application and they held up perfect but they weren't on very long.

Exactly, you can't tell me the engine just magically was lugged down to be at exactly 750RPM. It does not have a set throttle position, it will give it enough to hold at that exact RPM. When Johns truck was completely warmed up it was at 750 in D when it was 45F and you finally got it to go in without stalling it was at 750. The ECM compensates and does its thing. Manuals must be set at 850, I have no idea why you would ever want it that high. The trans is tight, by the time all the ECM/VP44/etc. gets a chance to give it more fuel, it has already stalled. I still don't understand how the summer/injector cleaner fuel gives it enough of an edge not to stall. You said 2 stroke doesn't fix it so lubricity isn't the issue. Only thing is, John has summer fuel in his and once it got cold out (under 60F maybe) it would stall. We put the other injectors in it and I think he has gone down to 55F without it stalling again. I am interested to see what it does when it gets to 45F, because it would stall instantly.

What happens when you turn the truck off? I assume it just closes a solenoid valve. Any other things it does to prevent leak down?

So if diesel is $3/gal and I use 14.5 and 21mpg, that is going from $0.21/mile to $0.14/mile. Over 1000 miles that is a difference of $64. 3 tanks at 21mpg would get you 2205 miles and save you $141 over the 14.5mpg tanks. The propane costs $30 to fill up at $2.50/gal.I think it is worth it

What does your fuel mileage go up to with the propane supplement?

Saw this and just knew it was for you http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4L6Zpg9klw

Thought I would figure it out by now, but, what is LOD? Thinking amp gauge now, not sure.

The main issue is just that the trans is that tight. The 3x disc will handle a ton of power so I doubt it is going to be too easy on the truck when in D. I watched John's truck idle at 280F EGT (maybe lower) but just putting it in D would drive it to about 430F. That is one hell of a load and I think it is just because the trans is that tight. I think the injector cleaner/summer fuel must have a more potent injection somehow so it gives it a bigger kick than the regular winter fuel The weird thing is that the RPM will always be the same once in D/R. The idle was dead on at 750 and in D/R it was dead on at 800 and once it got over the stalling hiccup and stayed running for a second, it would be right back at 800. It's like it just can't compensate as fast as the trans loads it.John initially fixed his truck by changing the batteries, which were making his truck crank slowly. If the batteries are bad then the alternator has to work harder, dragging the engine down slightly. That and the trans is what I believe to kill John's truck when it was 70+F outside. He changed the batteries and now the alternator wasn't dragging it down so the engine didn't have to battle as big a load.

Does the summer fuel/injector cleaner solve it even when the trans/engine is under 40F?

I was actually heading to Lyles. Which is 40 min from you from what I can tell :lol:We went friday late and got halfway and got a hotel. Then we went the other half and came back home saturday. Lot of neat land down there. Your leaves are changing a lot better than ours are.

Maybe "Idaho Civil Twilight" Wheres the sun!?

That was just 2 hours? Musta been windy as all get out. This summer we have had 2 or 3 thunderstorms come and go all in one day with completely blue skies in between, that would have been something to record. Sunrise and sunset would be awesome, if you would put it on top of the mountain

HOLY CRAP! I gotta get a camera like yours. If you ever get a chance, do it of the moon or stars. That is so incredible. I wish I could do it here, I got a lot better view of the sky than you lol. How long did it go anyways? Looks like maybe, 8 hours?

He used it for EGT's and would drop them wayyy down. It was preturbo on his using a high pressure tip thing so that it would vaporize it and the turbo would suck it in and mix it up some more. Worked good from what he says. I know he is an engineer and has invented a lot of setups for oil burners (the heating furnace). He said when the truck started black smoking he would flip the switch and it would clear up instantly and take off. After getting back from nashville with a 30ft trailer with a truck on it and everything, it was rare for me to get over 900. I even had the cruise set at 70 and there were some really long hills that were about 3-4% grade, I would hit about 880 near the top. I got to some 5-6% hills and was hitting about 940 by the top. That was probably 6000lbs trailer/load. So I don't exactly have any EGT issues but if I passed someone it would get up there, that is why I think the water would be great. Putting my wastegate fooler on there helped a lot. I can be at 25psi and the wastegate is completely shut. Stock if I were at 25psi, I would have to be stepping on it more since I was also having to outflow the wastegate (no boost elbow). My new digital EGT gauge thinger has a relay on it that can turn on at any temp and I want to take advantage of it with water injection, making it turn on at 1050.

Does yours drag down a lot like Johns? The injector cleaner and summer fuel doesn't stop it from dragging down but just keeps it from dragging down to the "stall point" right? I am just trying to understand how polar opposite chemicals can fix it, but in between it stalls. The way I am judging that is by cetane (injector cleaner is high, summer fuel is low, winter fuel would be in the middle) and also lubricity (injector cleaner is paint thinner so no lube, winter fuel is kinda paint thinner but still has some lube, then summer fuel has all the lube). I don't know what other variables there are.

I think those were somewhere around Jackson, TN. Those weeds/vines/whatever encompassed everything. I didn't get pics of all the times I saw it but there were sections of about 500x500ft where that crap had taken over, and I am talking a forest section.. The trees were completely engulfed along with the ground and everything else, I saw nothing but that stuff, it was insane. They had a lot of cotton down there, a LOT. There wasn't an inch of ground without a cotton plant on it it seemed. They had this big blocks in the fields that were how they "baled" the cotton. They were huge though, maybe 40ft long. They had special machines that picked them up and loaded them on the truck.

When I was CF asking about it long ago, they told me I had to have head studs because of the added pressure. Is this true? I am starting to think it is a bunch of crap. I do know one guy around here with a 4BT in an f150 that uses water injection and he said it has a huge effect on it.

On the way down I went all the way down I55 down the side of Missouri all the way to the boothill. I recall Dorkweed showing me it was flat and I just couldn't believe how flat it actually is. You could literally trash the level and build your house making sure it was equal length above ground on all sides and it would be level I got some pics and 2 of them have this green crap that seems to be a parasite. I don't know if anyone has seen the new (older now I guess) GI Joe movie where the bomb makes everything have that grassy stuff on it before eating it all away, but this stuff was just like that. It covered EVERYTHING. The ground, the trees, it engulfed it. I have no idea what it is. Another pic is the weird trees I saw in this one spot. At the bottom they flare out like a xmas tree stand does for the xmas tree. I will put the pics on here but I don't think you can see much so I will also put the links on here and then the pics will pop up full size and you can see everything. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Tennessee/IMG_2519.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Tennessee/IMG_2520.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Tennessee/IMG_2521.JPG http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Tennessee/IMG_2522.JPG

John's new batteries fixed it for him but once it got colder outside (under about 60F) it was back to doing it. He said the injectors made it do it once he put them in so we put the stock injectors back in and it hasn't done it since. I didn't know who actually had a lot of experience on this issue but I knew the blue chip guy must have more than most so I emailed him and this is what I got. The short answer is the cause is the bigger injectors. The long story is to explain how the VP44 works. The ECM controls idle speed, and when it sees lower than desired rpm it asks for a teaspoon, so to speak, of fuel to fix the problem, but now that you have bigger holes at the end of the pipe more fuel than asked for comes out without the VP44 knowing it and the idle increases too much, so the ECM tells to VP44 to kill the fueling to get it back to where it should be quickly. The result is the pump is doing all the right things, but the injectors are not putting in the correct amount of fuel to make the pump happy and therefore make the idle stay consistent. You are right that the viscosity of the ATFaffects this situation too. The only other thing that can aggravate this situation is if the injectors are not within 1% of putting out the same amount of fuel per delivery event.

This tank is even more interesting based on how I drove. 288 Miles75 miles-76mph75 miles-70mph50 miles-Trailer going up all the hills and everything around here 70mph 88 miles-unloaded 60mph14.4 GallonsMeans exactly 20mpg Don't ask me how it does it

I just got back from kansas city and hit every single pothole, mudhole, ditch, curb, manhole on the road and it never did it.

The whole ordeal of this was that you were talking diesel to diesel. Even the thread title said diesel vs. gas and that's what everyone thought you meant. Even I was wondering what you meant by it all. Try and make a it a little more obvious on what you are comparing next time

You could have said that before Diesel to diesel the cummins is definitely easiest to work on. Not sure about cheapest, figured they all costed too much when they all hit the CR phase. But 6 injectors is cheaper than 8

Very easy. You take the 3 T-30 Torx screws out of the inside part of the tailgate. Then you pull the bottom half of the latch off (the part that falls off of all chevy's). Then you pop off the 2 tailgate lock rod things and pull them out of the latch. Then to get it out you open the latch and pull the handle out first then the rest, it won't come out unless you pull that handle, unless you could find a better way than I could The rods that fell into the tailgate you can find easily, your whole hand can fit down in there and they hardly drop very far. When reinstalling, the shim thing that falls off chevys is the last thing to go on, it just pops back in. Dang it! Thought I edited that first shim part out :banghead: I try to keep what you guys see limited http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=1THS6mZE1Vs