jathanmentzer

It definitely wasn't a fun job and I'll keep that in mind and see how these wear, but for now, I appreciate the stronger stopping power (50 mph to 0 in a telephone pole gap) over pad/rotor life. I do plan to swap to a 2001+ non-CAD axle before the rotors need to be replaced or turned more than once again. When I got up close with the rotors, I noticed they were deeply grooved in spots (I could slide a dime between the rotor surface and a straight edge), so I figured they would be too thin after turning. Back to the ABS seizures, I unplugged the driver's side sensor and it hasn't freaked out since, so at some point next week I might try to swap the old sensor (that worked) back in and see if that fixes it.

Here's mine. Looks similar to Mike's though it's 1/8" steel with some extruded aluminum angle to join it. Painted to match the truck.

Update: After driving it more, I had the scary experience of losing power brakes while trying to stop, and felt the ABS pulse through the pedal, though I was not slamming on it at all. Seemed like the ABS somehow only kicked in on the driver's side as the truck pulled hard right as well. Would it be worth swapping the old ABS sensor back onto the driver's side hub? Or should I just get a new hub entirely? Side note: When ABS isn't freaking out, the Powerstop Z36 kit performs great. I'm not worried about blowing through an intersection trying to stop for a yellow light anymore. Seems like a worthy upgrade for those of us with the pressed-on rotors that can't do a 3rd gen upgrade. (No paid promotion)

I know, old topic. It's just that no one seems to be in the same situation I am. I just finished replacing front rotors, calipers, and pads (Powerstop Z36 kit) and discovered the passenger side hub was shot, spun like a fidget spinner. Also replaced the driver side axle shaft assembly since the threads got screwed up taking the nut off. Anyway, I also threw a new ABS sensor on the driver side hub from a brand new bearing my friend messed up and gave to me, since I had access to it. I get everything back together, bleed the brakes, and as soon as I cross the 20-25 mph mark, the ABS/Brake Christmas tree lights up. Does not come on with brake pedal action, comes on when I hit that speed range and then doesn't go off until I turn the truck off. Pedal feels mushy compared to before, but I think that's an unrelated bleeding issue. Of course 2 minutes into the bed-in procedure and Bambi wants to say hi, knocked my front license plate off but that was it (lights came on before running over deer btw). Not sure what would be causing this, I read the other threads and I doubt that it's a tone ring issue since one hub is new (Timken) and the other was just fine beforehand. Front ABS doesn't do much of anything (Don't feel anything in the pedal either), but it didn't do much before the job either. I forgot to disconnect the batteries when changing the sensors, but disconnecting them later did not change anything. Also, the parking brake light works as designed before I hit 20-25 mph and it stays on, so I doubt it's anything with that system specifically. 4wd light does not come on unless I put it on 4wd, so nothing unusual there. The only area I touched was the front hub/brake assembly, so that must be where some change is causing an error, just not sure what. Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Any OE or similar style track bar uses what is effectively a tie rod end for the joint at the crossmember. As shown by the factory Dodge steering components (T-style), tie rod ends don't like to be used at an angle with linear loads perpendicular to or in parallel with the axis of the stud. They hold up well enough for steering, but when they have to bear the load of the truck's weight transferring, plus act as a fixed piece for the steering to leverage off of, they don't hold up. The outer housing that's part of the track bar itself will first slide along the axis of the stud, since the relative angle of the bar from joint to joint is more aligned with that axis, and consequently exerts the load on the ball at this angle (not just horizontally). Leveled or lifted suspensions exacerbate this by increasing the angle from horizontal and putting the joint at a more extreme position in its range of motion. Best thing to do is swap it for one that has bushings, Johnny joints, or heim joints at both ends using a conversion bracket. I really like mine from Dodge Off Road, but you can always go with Synergy, BD, etc (though I think they aren't as strong or well-designed). Whatever route you take, always keep front end components well-greased and clean of debris.

Alright, thanks. I knew there was a certain grade or rating that it would have to be, just wasn't sure what. Might check out the AMSOil.

I changed my fluid for the first time (yes, ever. still was the original 1999 fluid) at ~195-200k miles. Came out looking like metallic gold paint. Figured it would be a little normal for having that much mileage, so I just bought 6 quarts of the Mopar PN for the original stuff and filled it back up. I recently made my own short shift kit, and during that, I noticed the fluid is now a very dark gray, but not very metallic (216k). Probably going to change it again soon, but I don't want to spend $150 either. What fluids are out there (or link to other forums) that are sure not to rip the things apart, aside from the Delvac SAE 50W that's been tested? I don't really beat on it or "speed shift" since the engine is bone stock except for an intake and exhaust.