dodgethis91cmns

Well if it was a cab and chassis I would,assume it could have been a standard cab long bed. Correct?

So to make a long story short.....a long time ago I wrecked my truck and had the frame repaired. For whatever reason I still feel weary about the frame situation because of who did the work. I recently found a guy who has a 2001 dodge dually frame and front axle. I have pictures of it but his front end setup is more or less a solid front axle with no differential and it has coil spring towers on the frame My current pickup a 1997 dodge 2500 single wheel 2wd has the old control arm coil spring setup. My question is is one or the other a better front end ? And if I could score this frame and stuff would all my 97 stuff be able to be swapped to that frame?

you really dont need to go buy a whole new fuel pin. you can cut yours with a new profile to enhance fueling and save yourself the $100 bucks.

awesome thanks WILD and FREE. im thinking hes going to want to delete it. because i dont really thing in PA the winters are cold enough to justify it. plus its going to be more of a fun truck than anything else i beleive. so if i do delete it that trans cooler up front just aint going to cut it. do you think somethink like a B&M 12x12 cooler would do it? possibly with a fan if need be?

hey guys its been a while since ive been on the forum. unfortuneatly my truck is off the road. i have a firend who recently purchased a 12 valve and is paying me since i have a back round with first gens to swap a 47RH into in. he used to have the old clapped out A518 in it. i recently got the transmission completely out. a few questions i had were does anyone know the engine adapter plate to motor torque spec for the bolts?? i found for a manual the spec is 35ft/lb but i dont know if that applys to an auto to also i need the torque spec for the flywheel to crank ok and the last thing.....when i was removing the metal trans lines from the trans, of course the flares wouldn't come out. so i ended up cutting the metal lines to the trans. i plan on having metal braided stainless lines made up at a hydraulic shop near by. i noticed that there are two sets of metal lines though. one set goes to the cooler core mounted up front the other set goes to some kind of cylinder on the block under the turbo. my question is basically is there any way / can i delete that cylinder??? a friend that works at a trans shop told me i could but i wanted to check with actual cummins guys before i touch it thanks in advance NICK

I love in north eastern pa

Turns out I looked today and the balancer on the back of the trans has a slip yoke built in. So this one piece shaft will work. I might have go get a split u joint, 1410 on one side 1480 on the other. Ill have to see how they compare.

So I've been having a lot of vibrations from my truck over 65 mph. I figured it out be the carrier bearing between my two driveshafts. I did some research and found a place semi local who would build me one for $650. I start saving for this among other things I really need for my truck right now. Yesterday I was searching craigslist and found a guy selling an aluminum one piece drive shaft out of a 1998 ram 2500 quadcab short bed automatic. He said the measurement center of u joint to center of u joint is 68 inches. I went out to my truck this evening and with the help of a friend measure my driveshaft center to center and came up with 68.5 inches. With it being that close I'm VERY interested in this driveshaft. The question I have is IF I convert to a one piece shaft is there a way to remove the balancer on the back of the trans and use a slip yoke? Because I feel like if I can make that happen this shaft will work. The slip yoke I if possible I would imagine should give me enough play to make up the half inch extra id need in length, and compensate for when the suspension moves and the driveshaft slides in And opinion is greatly appreciated

Valve overlap sounds relatively easy to understand. I think that'll work and I have a local snap on friend I think ill get a magnet off of just in case

Ive never been afraid of doing just about anything to my truck. but this 60lb spring install seems to sound a little sketchy. ive read across all forums and looked on youtube and i have a general idea of how to do it. the only thing im worried about is being ABSOLUTELY sure that im at TDC so my valves dont drop into the cylinder. i was going to try to complete the job tomorrow because i need my truck for work on monday. is there any sure way to tell that i'm at TDC? i've seen the method where you use a dial indicator, (i do not have one)and also the method of pulling the injector (that seems time consuming and i do not have a tool to pull injectors)i was hoping there was a quick easy way just by turning the engine over.

Rogan- yea that was what I was thinking. Right now my fuel plate is still untouched and I have the star wheel up about 3 turns. I have a 10 plate and a 3gsk for it but am too afraid to put them in with my stock slipping clutch in there.basically I found the injectors on Craigslist locally. They have about 9000 miles on them and I can pick them up for $375 without giving up my stock injectors. That seems like a good deal considering on DDP's website they ask $800 new. I want to get a clutch hopefully in the next 2 weeks and take it from there. But if I can swing the injectors then they can go on the shelf for later use. A for a charger I'm with you something like a d-tech would be a good way to go. But I'm thinking I'm going to go with the super b single. The bigger exhaust housing will keep egts and drive pressure lower, but I know it'll probably come with some lag. I just the 12cm housing with upgrades it would just get to hot to quick. I feel that a14cm housing is a better route for someone like me shooting for 450whp and still be able to hook up a trailer and not have to adjust nothing besides my foot

So I've been thinking of switching injectors and going a little bit bigger to something like ddp 90hp injectors. I currently have stoxk injectors on my truck now (215hp 5x10) with a 145 degree spray from what I understand. Ddp injectors from what I understand are 5x12 at 155 degree spray angle. Is it worth the littlw bit of d difference to switch to the ddp injectors? Is anyone using them? If so how do you like them?

I was kind of thinking the same thing but i don't think that the special is the way to go either. Thats alot of exhaust to spool up andespecially with the little bit of towing I do it would lag bad in my opinion. The d tech doeant sound to bad imo but pulling hills im sure itd get hot.

So I recently came across a BD super b special turbo for cheap from a friend. It's 64 /71/14wg. I picked it up thinking I could use it on my 12 valve but I starting to think its going to be to big to really reach the goal I'm trying to achieve.my goals for my truck are : 450-480 HP, still keeping it as a daily driver and able to do some light towing (my boat, my car trailer and my dads 28ft enclosed trailer) and also maintaining at least 23-24 mpg average.right now what I have for my truck that's not installed is :3gsk spring #10 plate with boost elbow and all the mods listed in my sig. I also plan on getting a clutch soon like a valair or south end because I know as soon as I install those parts mine won't hold up for long. Also I plan on something like 80hp sticks.the turbo I think that would work best for what I'm doing is the BD super B single. But I also have someone who recently offered to trade me a D Tech 62/65/12. I have read a little on this turbo but can't find a whole,lot of testimonials on it. Does anyone know if this turbo would be a good one for me and my goals? My worries are that the 12 housing will get hot quick and that drive pressures will be to high. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

So this morning I installed an adjustable overflow valve and finally got my fuel pressure back in check. after finishing I took my truck for a test drive. As soon as I got to the end of my road I noticed my ABS and brake lights were still on. I pulled the emergency brake handle again but they still stayed on. The truck does run or stop any different then it did before. I did some searching in a bunch of forums and have read countless threads on this same problem. I first checked my wiring running from the RWSS Along the frame. It was chaffed through the protective loom but not through any of the wires. Then I ran up to advanced auto and picked up a new RWSS for 13 bucks. I installed it and pulled he neg battery cable and after driving 100yards the lights came right back on. Any other ideas as to what it could be? I haven't changed my rear differential fluid in a good bit so this weekend I'm going to that but I can't seem to find out what it could be. - - - Updated - - - Also I noticed : the old RWSS had a small metal piece on the bottom that I guess would read the exciter ring. The new one I got from advanced auto looked to be about the same but did no have that small metal piece on the bottom. Is this just a different style of sensor or is it not the right one?