Imaybail

Looking for ideas on building a leak tester for my turbo and associated piping. Thinking of a four inch PVC pipe, capped with a schrader valve and gauge in the cap. How do you attach the pipe to the turbo?

Bought truck a couple of months back and am not happy with towing performance, so planning on upgrading injectors to add some more power. Might go 100 hp, just need to decide on type and size. Probably will need a tuner of some type too, leaning towards the Quadzilla Adrenaline. I believe the trans has been built, it does have a billet converter, but that is all I know about it. Might drop the pan and see if I can find out more about it. 47RE trans, shifts well, firm and no hunting, but just wondering if it is normal for rpms to drop back to 900 when coasting. 4.10 rear end, running 265/80/17 rubber.

Thanks for the replies guys! I would say it is a blue similar to the shade that Ford used to use on its engines in the 70’s. Medium blue?

Still getting to know my new to me ‘99 3500 and looked in the bellhousing inspection window today since the previous owner said it had a billet converter. Sure enough it did, but can’t tell what brand it is. It’s painted blue and I didn’t see a drain on it. No identifying marks. Does anyone have a guess as to who made it?

Thanks for the idea. Gonna try that with mine. Anything in particular to look at on the circuit board? Plan to check all the solder joints and transistor for the pump control. Don’t know about my hubs. Will have to check them for grease to rule that out. Thanks for the info.

I don’t have a boost fooler as far as I,know.

Don’t really know at this point how many miles on the injectors. 250k miles on the truck though. I keep getting the overboost code. (P0234) I suppose because of the boost elbow. Does the VP44 defuel when it sees this? Wonder if I should just run a stock elbow since I don’t have a tuner of any kind.

Just need to go about it in a logical manner. Check injectors Install gauges Probably run an Edge or Quad xzt Adjust my expectations Sell ‘07 truck

So, the HX 35 max boost is 20 psi? Don’t really know what I have now. Plan to upgrade in the future though. Not really happy with the performance at this point, but not sure where to start with this truck. Still have my 6.7 manual truck but would really like to transition to this automatic truck if it will fulfill my towing needs.

That’s probably what I will have to do with mine.

Thanks guys, I thought that might be what it is. Also found a “boost elbow” on the turbo today when I was checking the function of the wastegate. Turbo is a HX 35. Elbow has a tiny hole in the middle and another tiny hole on the side. I have pulled two overboost codes(0234) from the truck. I bought this truck from a guy who didn’t really know much about the truck. He insisted that it was stock, but I could see that it had a thermocouple in the exhaust manifold, a Raptor lift pump, and a sending unit on the top of the fuel filter canister. The truck runs pretty good, but never shows any sign of smoke and I don’t have any 2nd gen frame of reference as far as what to expect. Obviously a previous owner has had at least gauges and probably a tuner of some type as well. So, should I keep the boost elbow installed or try to find a stock elbow to use?

Was working in the passenger side of the engine bay and noticed that one of the wires going to/from the PCM had been tapped. With the clamp on type that takes a male spade input. I believe it was the black with orange stripe or vice versa. Anybody know what this might indicate?

Now I see why the “ tech” cut open the case. He did this to desolder the power connection for the pump from the circuit board. I’m going to try and see if a heat gun will loosen up the connector socket and let it pass through the case and stay connected to the circuit board. Then I can check for loose connections and fry solder joints, hopefully repair the module. I did notice today that when you drive without the module connected, you lose the speedometer. I have checked all my wheel sensors/diff sensor and they all ohm out correctly at the joint on the inner fender and also at the connector to the module, so I think I have ruled out a wiring issue. Possibly might still have a tone ring problem on one of the front wheel bearings as I haven’t checked them for AC output. My brakes work fine, but I must be OCD because the lights in the instrument panel bug me and I want to get that resolved. Still haven’t addressed the constantly on seat belt light, but I think that can be fixed easily with a jumper installed at the right place. Might do that now to take care of it and have some success.

So, I’ve had ABS and brake lights on in the instrument panel since I got this truck and have read lots of threads on how to diagnose and repair the issue. My module seems to have been sent off for repairs before. Looks like the “technician “ cut through the top cover and attempted a repair without opening up the module. I have tried to open the top cover and have all the screws out but can’t seem to get the cover off. I think the connector for the pump motor is attached to the circuit board and must be left attached to the top cover and pulled through the bottom part of the module but I haven’t been able to accomplish this yet. Has anybody opened one of these up yet? Deets would be appreciated. Ben

Hello all. New member from Georgia. Have owned 3 Cummins trucks over the last 12 years. Currently own a 2007.5 3500 SRW CCSB with Southbend clutch, Smarty S67. Just bought a 99 3500 DRW Auto truck with 250 K miles. Trying to get to know this truck so I can use it to tow my tractor to and from my property/hobby farm. Really glad to have found this community as it seems to be active and have learned quite a lot about 2nd gen platform. Hope I can contribute to the knowledge as well. Ben