Sawed-off

Thanks guys. I’m not real sure about the fan clutch, I think I heard it one time climbing a hill while pulling a load in the summer and the needle went almost to the end of the white before it kicked on. I pulled the radiator and cleaned the face when I changed the thermostat. Where should the gauge read when the fan kicks on? I might try a new thermostat and see if that changes anything. Or maybe see what it does without one. If the temp doesn’t climb that high without a thermostat I would think this one is goofy. Again, thanks for the help. I think this place is a great resource for these trucks. I come here and read up quite a bit and have leaned a lot.

I’ve been noticing that my coolant temperature has been running higher than normal at high speeds (75-85 mph, 2500ish rpm). Around town and slower highways it runs around 185-195, but run the rpm up and coolant quickly rises to 210-215. It drops down to 185 only a few second after I drop the rpm. I also tested this in 2nd gear locked @ 40 mph/2600 rpm, temp quickly rises to 215 but will fall to 185 in 3rd or 4th gear. I don’t normally drive around at 2600 rpm, but with 4.10 gears and an 80 mph speed limit it gets close. I recently swapped out the thermostat with a new NAPA 190* because it was not getting to operating temp and I figured it was stuck open. I also removed and cleaned the radiator at that time. Now I’m not liking how high and how much it fluctuates. Could it be the new thermostat is bad? Is there a recommended brand to run? Or do I have bigger issues? Thanks for the help! The truck is a 2000 Dodge 2500 quad cab short bed, 4x4, 4:10 gears, ATS auto, 60HP edge, Fass pump. A few pics of what I’m seeing:

Yep. Just tried it. It takes off in 3rd gear with the wire cut. ? maybe it can’t be done?

Thanks Me78569. On mine the wire is not tapped but it was cut and run into the commander on a yellow wire and back out on the blue wire. Do you think this would still work? Sounds easy I'm ready to snip it! Or maybe I can get the yellow wire out of the connector going into the ATS plug.

Hey guys, My 2000 Dodge has an ATS built auto that was installed about 70,000 miles ago. It also has the ATS tripleloc commander. This device, when turned on, will lock the torque converter based on speed. It has ⬆️⬇️ Buttons to change the speed and which it locks. The problem (or what I don’t like about the setup) is the factory logic will still lockup the converter when it wants to. For example: driving around town I don’t want the converter locking because it is pretty harsh and jerky, so I hit the up button on the ats commander and it won’t call for lockup until 45mph, but the factory computer calls for lockup at about 33 mph. Then if you let off it will unlock, get back on it and it will lock. This gets old because the triple lock converter (supposedly low stall) just bangs in hard. Does anybody know if there Is a safe way to eliminate the factory call for lockup? thanks

Happy 4th of July! I'm Kevin from Caldwell Idaho. Been reading lots of great info on this forum since I purchased a 2000 Dodge Cummins from my Dad about 6 months ago. It seems a lot of you guys know these trucks inside and out! Mopar1973man thanks for taking the time to make this place happen. We might cross paths up on US95, I spend a lot of my free time in the Council-Cuprum area. I have a few plans for the truck: 1) better torque converter control ( I have questions! Will start a new post soon) 2) steering-replace worn components. It's a bit of a handful to keep it between the lines! 3) pop-up camper. Four Wheel Camper brand is the dream, but probably out of the budget. Anyone here have any experience with a pop-up truck bed camper? 4) stop the door rust and some sort of bed liner coating on the lower part of the truck. 5) erase everything I've ever read about the 53 block from my head?. I hope you all have a great 4th!