Tittle Diesel Performance

By the IAT sensor I meant developing a second one far from the cylinder head to get a data point of post-intercooler but not up against the cylinder head where it won’t be heat soaked as much. The air will warm moving into the cylinder head but at least you could get a real idea of what the temp is the engine receives via the cooler rather then radiant heat on the stock IAT. So you’d run both but use the new IAT for a data point to try and dial in the map essentially. i know the stock one they map it for heat soak already but for tuning purposes and control a second IAT would be good. Like the common rails, they run a IAT post air filter and pre turbo then a second in the intake plenum. We would just have it post inter cooler instead to offset for long high pressure pulls and hot days where the intercooler isn’t as efficient. See what I mean? Well that makes sense why when I hit around 150* IAT and up my timing suddenly fell off. Engine went dead quiet and EGT went up. Must have been that cliff there. i wish I could pull up the stock ecm file on efi live so I could graph it since that’s what I’m used to seeing... I always think back to the common rail files. There was files you posted for me I just don’t have the program yet to open them and see the data so for now there sitting

I’ve changed some wire tap settings here and there and got it to smooth out a little better but it’s also a stock injector truck so I’ll have to really play with it on a customers truck to further the setting effects and better understand the settings. If that made sense... That makes sense with having a 2D map plus with a map like that you can have more data points technically for multiple situations. I do still think a IAT map built in would be good though to help any head gasket issues with high temps and further economy by targeting the peak cylinder pressure better. Maybe in the future @Quadzilla Power Will be able to work it in there and see benefits. on CR trucks with efi live I took out the IAT offset before and it didn’t act very well with heat soak or conditional changes. Once I put the map back in and did some small adjustments I got timing and fuel subtraction with heat programmed in which got some small summer time fuel gains and cleaned up the exhaust a little more. Just something y’all should really think on. I know the IAT location sucks on these trucks but an idea could also be to develop a IAT sensor that can go in the intake horn furthest from the cylinder head to get a more correct reading. For example pre-quadzilla on hot days IAT would go over 150* and I was borrowing a superchips for economy. Well once IAT hit 140 or over the timing fell off quickly, I figured economy would fall but it didn’t. Then I noticed it didn’t fuel as hard as 10* before and the exhaust cleaned up a little proving the IAT map that was still active was beneficial. I’m sure those in the desert in 110* heat would appreciate the addition/correction factor. Just a suggestion. oh and the cruise timing engine load limitation, can we bring that up to 50%. On stock injector trucks even at 40% it likes to hop in and out of cruise with small .5% inclines which can be annoying. A little more wiggle room would be good for pure economy or highway tunes where we may need a hair more throttle to cruise depending on conditions Oh and for both @Me78569 and @Quadzilla Power I know your still in development of the in cab screen system but a video on YouTube surfaced from power driven diesel of a GDP android tablet running an app that ran the quadzilla and some camera and other functions. Do you know what the app was called and is it on iOS? Could that app be converted to use of an in cab screen with a OBD2 plug also tied in for diagnostic functions, maybe ABS tire size recalibrations etc etc similar to the edge CTS functions? Maybe it would be possible to take a android tablet and do a flash where it turns on with that control app only so it’s dedicated to the truck if you get my meaning. Maybe a short cut and a little more cost effective to produce then.

Actually the eBay knock off HX35w’s are pretty good now. Whatever turbo you run drill the oil feed fitting out just a little bit, the later trucks had less oil feed and if you overspin the turbo you’ll have bearings burn. Little extra oil always helps just don’t hog it out where the drain backs up. You can get the eBay versions for $200. Again there actually pretty good. Yeah the manuals had the HX35 since there wasn’t a stall speed they needed more bottom end response so they left it alone. The HY was for top end power with the autos since they had such a loose converter. But it honestly backfired and didn’t work the way they planned. Part of it too was the HY gates all 6 cylinders vs the rear 3 and a common misconception is the HX only gating 3 means the front isn’t getting better flow but that’s false. Since the turbine area of the housing has less moving threw it then the front threw cylinders push the exhaust flow threw the turbine easier. Essentially it naturally balanaces and really gates all 6 just not direct. so the HY was intended for more top end but without loosing spool with the smaller turbine but again it was a failure. It had to happen for emissions reasons, a benefit for the stock auto was also a reduction in torque to keep the poorly calibrated valve body from trashing the clutch packs even worse. With autos 85% of the problems are in the valve body and easily fixed That’s why it said the HX35 in the autos was pre 2000 then in 2001 it went to HY35

So you got a Cummins, congrats! But are you getting the best stock performance for what YOU use it for??? Here is some info you may find interesting.. so the HX35 began in 1995, similar spec to the WH1C which was a 94 one year hybring is the H1 series and HX series that honestly I wouldn’t mess with. It’s not really worth building as it’s balanced as an assembly so you can’t drop wheels on or make changes without swapping the turbine also. The center section or bearing housing isn’t that great, the oil paths aren’t as open as the HX. So the HX35 was a 56/60/12 which is the main figures you typically look at in turbo sizing. 56mm inducter (inlet) of the compressor, then 60mm exducer (outlet) on the turbine then finally 12cm which is a air volume measurement. Larger is higher flow with lesser velocity so a slower spool but EGT usually falls as well as response. This can help towing with a loose converter or high rpm with a 16 or 18CM housing you’ll see a EGT drop. So HX35 is a 56/60/12 or 56/82 70/60 HX35W beginning in about 99 is the code for a smaller compressor a 54/78 which is my personal fav turbo for stock or tow applications. The AR of the compressor housing and flow characteristics changed on the W and actually flows only 2lbs less per minute though it’s smaller! That 2lbs you hardly feel BECAUSE the smaller compressor takes less shaft HP to turn to get the same RPM. Essentially to get the same amount of boost it requires a little more rpm but there is a benefit of this, the turbine is now spinning faster allowing exhaust to pass over the blades easier with less restriction as the turbine blades are closer to matching the blade velocity. In turn your drive pressure is a little lower! So that 2lbs a minute compressor loss turns into making the same engine power because it can breath on the exhaust side easier. Your also less likely to bark the W, it will just takes a little more effort because the larger number (exducer) on the compressor is smaller thus less leverage on the shaft during the ‘bark’ which is a pressure fluctuation between the compressor and turbine. now in 2001 due to emissions Cummins changed the turbo to the dreaded HY35...this in my book is the worst stock turbo ever to come on a Cummins along with the HE341 in 2003. This turbo is a 54/58/10. The idea was to improve response but gain some flow in the upper rpm band. The numbers being lower/smaller usually you’d see faster spool right? No! This time they went to an open scroll exhaust housing, issue is open scrolls essentially mix the front and rear 3 cylinder firings together, there is a pulse that assists in spool which is then intermixed in open scrolls causing lag! The pulse can’t hit the turbine direct so it looses velocity and some heat. The HX35 is a twin scroll keeping velocity up and therefore spool. There is more science to it but an open scroll at high boost/rpm will flow a little better vs a twin scroll when compared with the same CM/AR rating. The issue is the turbine dropped from a HX35 70/60 to the HY35 65/58 which is less leverage and less shaft HP also mixed with the lack of cylinder pulse. This was done to offset the open scroll housing but was a fail in my book. So do you have an HY35? 01-02 was factory, easy way to tell is look at the turbine, if there is a V band clamp connecting the center section to the exhaust it’s probably the HY35. Another check is look at the exhaust housing shape, the lump that tappers around the housing will be rounded and narrow instead of a more flat and wide shape. So if you confirmed it’s an HY then search the market for a cheap upgrade AKA HX35W. Changing the turbine side between these turbos make a massive change in response, sound and MPG. The HY can get decent MPG at low rpm but it leave some to be desired. The HX on the other hand can spool as much as 250rpm sooner which makes a big change. Still flows great. Now if your running a larger then 100 over stock injector don’t expect a ton of power gains in the upper rpm band above 2600ish this is more focused on the daily or two rig where response and efficacy matter. EGT, engine load, and drive pressure all drops instantly and in most cases you gain 1-2psi at cruise thanks to the exhaust housing twin scroll and larger turbine wheel making more shaft HP to spin the compressor. The point of this is more usable power under the curve which means a wider and deeper power range available to you and a lower EGT to boot! Now that you know the main point differences, if you want a nice little upgrade trash the HY35 for an HX35W. The HX35 works too but it’s a little more laggy for honestly very little gain. Oh and the HE341 is an HY35 converted for 3rdgen trucks. It’s a 54/58/9, different exhaust housing that flowed better but the best part is the WG design, it flows like mad and exits direct into the down pipe instead of taking 2 sharp 90* turns like the HX meaning way way better flow. The compressor housing changed a little with a 90* outlet and a little larger AR but was quickly scrapped for the HE351 which gained a 60mm inducer compressor. If your good with some fab work a 351CW makes a great upgrade. About another 100hp or so capable of max power thanks to the wastegate and when mulled out you can make some sweet power. It is an open scroll but the large compressor and small turbine with the housing design ended up being very efficient and works pretty well. Now your part throttle cruise EGT maybe up a little, I’ve noticed some MPG drop over the HX35 but if your truck is a worker or you like to race around and have fun, it’s a good turbo to put on for cheap!

Oh that’s right I forgot about that. Still it would be a good feature for those who understand it. I know there was issues with people not understanding the “level” wire tap reduction IE running level 7 of 10 got you 66% or your wire tap map for example (math isn’t right I know). Like myself personally I run 5 levels total. 3/canbus full stays on all the time and when I want to play I just go to the top level 5 for wire tap. I’ve only used 4 if I’m towing something super heavy and need to like merge or move quickly for a short time and want that 50% wire tap reduction to keep stress down or to stay clean but still have some power to boot. if you have a flash for the quad that can enable the slider function (along with a version for the IOS) id love to run it if possible. The concept I like a lot. I look at wire tap like nitrous, if you spray all the 300hp shot on a stock small block Chevy instantaneously you can damage components but if you put a stage controller with PMW solenoids you can control the ramp rate with multiple variables and smooth the transition. In a way the sliders can allow the same premise, if I want 10psi and up to be where the full wire tap value begins then below that I can put a ramp rate in place so it’s not a 9psi 0% then 10psi 100% as an extreme example. I know boost scaling and such is the smoothing factor for that but to be able to custom ramp and see the ramp on the scales can really help with tuning. I feels it’s just a valuable tool is all. i know my rig is just a tow rig but I do demo the quadzilla capability to customers, the cleaner and more control I have really impresses people

I want to add that 3.73 gears DID NOT come factory in Dana axles in these trucks. 03 when the AAM axles began is when 3.54 was changed to 3.73 due to economy reasons as 3.54 with autos .69 OD was too tall of a gear set and caused excess load. So unless you put 3.73's in yourself then you have a 3.54 or 4.10. You can tell based on RPM at cruise or looking st the build sheet under the hood. 3.54 with a manual .79 your 1750 ish st 60mph and auto trucks .69 your about 1600 at 60mph. Doesn't seem like a big change but it is 4.10 manual is 2100 at 60 and autos 1920 at 60 So is the lasted updates you release primarily geared towards the android operating version? It seems like the apple version is behind as far as updates. Being apple is a pain in the a$$ I wouldn't blame you for it lol i must add I really wish you hadn't taken the wiretap slider table away. It truely was magical in tuning the wire tap side of the fuel rates. Total smoke free. Now it's still clean but there are poofs here and there where it maybe a little quick psi-psi. Maybe you can have a V2 "pro" mode or something for use who understand how it works and know how to utilize it. That would be awesome...

Yeah not stock that's called a lazy install. It's not great being the brake line is on the axle tube and the heat pulling can boil the brake fluid prematurely. Best to pipe it out the side or atleast put a turn down that exits below the axle housing but not lower then the lowest point of the drum. Or better yet go for a full system behind the tire like mopar man said. If your got a rotted exhaust it's hard to beat a $250 4" alluminized exhaust. It's better then potential CO2 and CO poisoning if you've also got a sweet ventilated factory floor and cab corners

The offset table is an overlay map, I believe smarty leaves that alone but when IAT changes the timing variable and fuel map changes for offset in oxygen content and heat rise during compression. Essentially it dials fuel back a little when it's hot and timing falls to control combustion pressures. It's all for emissions, the quadzilla doesn't use that factor in it's program but smarty and superchips both do since there a flash program. Really that table isn't a bad thing to have, it can save a head gasket if you run the boarder edge of timing at say 70* IAT then at 140* IAT due to to much timing. It can create too much pressure and too fast of a flame front. You'll notice summer to winter that the engine clatter changes. When my tow rig IAT went past 140* with the super chips timing fell hard, engine went near silent once it hit 150 at cruising conditions. This was on an eco tune that ran a TON of timing just like the smarty eco map. as for the 12v yeah the location of the temp probe is an issue but that fluctuation does occur upon the T stat opening and in some cases can crack heads. Doesn't happen often and it's usually operator error by heating the engine too fast in the cold. The drilled hole takes a bit longer to warm up but it's much smoother and easier on components not to be shocked by a cold flow of water. It's designed to withstand it yes but it's more of a safeguard. warmer temp in the winter is no question beneficial but radiator or grille blocking helps a lot too just blocking cold air in the engine compartment alone will help a lot. Each is different though and of course your geographical location That's a good way of doing it too, the pizza box trick you don't cover the hole thing just half, and you can adjust how much you need. Usually below 30*f I do 1/2 running empty and towing I remove it unless temp gets too low then I'll go 1/4. Helps with warmup too with the T stat drilled. Never had an overheat issue and I'm pretty on top of it depending on conditions. I have a lot of idle time in the winter, this holds the heat in really well and self regulates the temp more. Both my trucks have larger then stock radiators according to specs. It's got an additional core on each truck to offset for added EGT and cylinder temps. Better too cold then too hot (to a point)

I wouldn't worry much about tar issues, yes EGT is much much lower but you gotta think the valve exhaust temp passing over it is still near 300-400* it just cools extremely fast moving threw the manifold under low pressure at idle. If your developing carbon or tar then you have some other issues to worry about. this is all based on a stock or programmed truck with an IAT map also where quads don't have that offset table. Being that the original engine design operation range is 160-220 you shouldn't see mass carbon building in the engine. If it idled every day 24/7 then yeah sure since EGT would never rise and a potential dirty burn would occur. Ive done the back and forth swap and yes that's an option but another easier solution for you cold weather guys is cutting the top off a pizza box and doing a radiator block between the intercooler and radiator. In the winter (10-40*f range) I run a 3/4 block typically unless towing then it's usually a 1/2 block temp depending. This will hold a lot more heat in and keep efficacy up due to lack of fan draw since it's got very little air to draw on so it stays in a low pressure area. It's much faster then doing a T stat change and you can usually keep it 180-190* or so on a 180 T stat mostly due to heat soaking and under hood temps keep up with the lesser air flow from the fan. Just give it a shot if your engine is cold or has a hard time warming up. part of that is I drill a .055 .079" hole in the thermostat too for temp fluctuation reduction. Specially 12v vehicles to keep the block or head from warping or spitting a freeze plug. It takes a little longer to warm up but with the rad block it's pretty quick and give you control. I've never overheated or even broke 200* with that block just don't forget to remove it in the spring!

Absolutely along with the fact that stacks are usually stainless and of course angles make a big difference. With duals you also have length and bend in differences that effect sound too. In a high school project a friend and I took a chevy long bed half ton truck, routed the exhaust up into the bed and with a bunch of straight and U sections we made the most idiotic exhaust ever, it spaneded front to back of the bed 11 times on both sides (true dual) and essentially filled the entire bed with exhaust to prove a point on sound waves. No mufflers or cats and it dropped 35db of sound due to all the bends and various angles we used. Flow wasn't the greatest but the point of the science project was we wanted to weld and goof off but the therory was dampening noise without a common exhaust muffler or cat system. Got an A on it and it cracked like an AK47 lol

Your correct on yes that was tested at wide open but part throttle conditions still apply. You won't see as much peak at part throttle cruise, in fact three inch pipe is still more then enough. CAI intakes won't make that big of a difference no but any air flow modification even at part throttle on these non restricted engines does matter. For example the tunnel ram style intake from crazy Carl's, that does help cylinder to cylinder distribution as well as volumetric efficacy regardless of fuel injected since the dynamic compression in increased do to more air mass or valume. Dual horn intakes do the same thing. Increases in air flow do matter but CAI's don't do anything unless your pulling a vacuum pre-turbo. Engines are air pumps, it's all about volumetric efficacy. There is some hype to it mostly because of people who don't understand and of course marketing but there are changes made. That said if you do any upgrades give a tunnel ram a try. The grid heater delete plates make a touch of change but not much. With the tunnel ram I wouldn't run one to keep the air swirl in the boost tube moving so there would be better distribution. But that's just me lol

This wasn't on a diesel but a small block mopar, the high temperature T stat change on an engine dyno actually lost power at 195* vs 160 without changing the AFR and IAT temps were the same ambient on both tests. The engine builder suggested the extra heat around the piston caused it to grow and ring end gap to close up which ended up creating more friction. In fact every part of the engine was growing and closing clearances creating drag. Granted closer tolerances are usually a good thing but it also creates in cylinder heat issues as well. Diesels aren't effected nearly as much in that way but take into account the oil temp, piston temp and head will all run hotter which means your heat soak will increase and therefore EGT safe peak technically can technically be reduced do to lesser piston, rod, skirt and ring cooling. They are designed to run hot yes but just know you can overheat the piston easier now. I run 180's in my 12 and 24v both to aleaviate this. Specially in diesel applications the thinning of the hoter oil doesn't pay off in less drag coefficient if the piston swell creates more drag. Essentially it'll offset the gains your looking for. 180 operational degrees is what the engine was originally clearanced and calculated for. That said if im wrong I'll be impressed lol I know my 12v ran worse with a 195* vs a 180. Too much heat soak and EGT suffered

Thanks I couldn't remember where I had seen some of the info previously

I don't have the mathmatical conversion in front of me but actually for a tuned only 24v VP44 truck 3" straight pipe/flow threw muffler actually moves just enough CFM at sea level conditions under full available fuel and rpm the injection system and head can support. I had a chart showing the capabilities of CFM of 3"-4-5" ID tubing and unless your running a cam, larger turbine, compounds etc above stock levels then it actually works fine. One part you left out though is turbine scavenging, 3" in theory under wide open conditions can chase a small vacuum behind the turbine wheel pulling the exhaust threw the wheel more efficiently when the WG isn't open. As for thermal dynamics the heat post turbo changes very little from 3 to 4". Most poeple go 4" for sound, room to grow later, and everyone who makes Diesel setups start at 4" to maximize potential performance being they don't know if your truck is stock or 1000hp so they essentially over-do it. 3" sounds nice some times, 4 does also, 5 does too. Depends on which sound your going for and how much potential power your gonna make in the future. 4" was tested on the dyno years back on a common rail to determine when 4" can't flow enough volume and power would start to fall off due to back pressure. They made 1150hp on the dyno before they got a 1.5hp loss lol the CFM rating to HP is potentialled to support 500-600hp before restriction comes into play. Of course there is a lot of factors involved in that, what engine, turbo, manifold, tuning, fuel etc but along the basic principle line 3" is technically enough. If I find my notes on it I'll copy it over for you. 5" is all sound, and what a sound it is! Yeah intake horns, grid heater delete, 3.5" intercooler tubes, and billet compresseor wheels are all a joke. Extremely little gains unless your running extremely high rpm, large cylinder heads, cams etc for intense air flow. Stock trucks=0 gains. But the "dual ram" style intake horns have known to show a few HP gains even on stock tuned trucks . The stock cast plenum doesn't flow to the 5-6 cylinders well at all, the second horn above those cylinders do give a little more air and lower individual cylinder IAT's since the air in the plenum has less time to transfer thermal energy. Granted there isn't much time to do so but there have been some dyno A-B tests independently on a 12v P pump truck with no fuel plate and they gained 6hp/27lbsft with no other changes just from more volumetric efficacy. There was like a 40-50* peak EGT drop. Cruise conditions weren't tested but that is one modification that does show some form of gain. if you go to 4th gen stuff the intake horn makes a difference, specially 6.7 engines in general. There pretty restricted due to emissions restrictions.

Another topic on here you had some info from a smarty S03, did you do data logging of these timing curve by chance? Like maybe you have a data log chart? I'm still playing with my timing curve a little, I finally got the tire size dialed it acurate speed and instant eco to assist in basing what timing is better and what's worse. I cruise 55-60, 3.54 gears and auto trans that puts me at 1500-1600rpm and it would seem this specific truck likes cruising at 19-19.4* is where it's happy. Part of that is I have the absolute worst stock holset turbo ever made....HY35... I have a feeling when I swap to a HX35W that I'll take a degree or so out

vinols is the program I need to open these files right? Your Quadzilla File Builder program which version of excel did you use to create that. Ive only got open office on my laptop so ill have to get the real Microsoft office now to use it

Exactly it's unsuspecting. One big give away too is when you get the black bumper and body from the soot cooking behind the exhaust. My 12v has a 188/220 cam for example, I put a stock turbo I had on the shelf on while it was between setups so it would run, even with a stock turbo below 2000rpm has hardly any torque now and the compression down low dropped so it hazes real bad and it's easy for smoke to develop below 2000 so though the truck is slow it's cooked the soot to the body and even with a careful throttle it still smokes. Great thing about the 24v is it's pretty well stock and tuned it's plenty of power and I can keep it clean easier and have a broad torque curve. I know his is unrelated but in a way it is for those thinking of going to a larger cam for there daily, honestly don't go larger then like a 178/208 (Hamilton) or spec close to that duration and try to shoot for a less then 108LSA if you can so you don't loose a bunch of bottom end and the big part MPG cause it drops fast with large cams on 3.54 gear trucks that turn less then 2000rpm on average

Ah ok. It makes sense anyways that you don't really need the wire tap scales anyways since you really shouldn't daily drive on a wire tap tune anyways. Specially with a larger injector, of course the best way is getting the can fuel just right and smoke control it that way. Of course wire tap has the throttle range and boost scale adjustments to move around and make those adjustments. I can't believe the amount of people running Edge and Quadzillas around on full wire tap tunes. Specially Edge boxes around here, we don't have a lot of quadzillas in MD so I show mine off a good bit. But the Edge comp/juice on 5x5 even with most stock trucks ends up having a super sensitive pedal and the general user who doesn't understand these things the way we do ends up driving harder then they "feel" with there foot position and then complain when they get 14mpg. Plus as we know wire taps are hard on the pump and can cause wear in some situations. I truely don't know either I was just curious as to if it could be done with quadzilla. if I had to guess it's popularity is because with Diesel direct injection we don't have the cam Lope gas engines get so they try to simulate it by making it run like trash as he stated. With EFI Live I refuse to do smoke tunes, we've also now adopted a fine for "coal rolling" though we don't have diesel emissions here. If your truck blows black it's an automatic $1500 fine up to 3000 depending on how serious and if it was on purpose for no reason.

I didn't realize it was so difficult with the VP. I know it's a very complex pump and I'd assume the software would be too. well the quadzilla only profile would explain why I was having some small hiccups then lol I'm really gonna miss the wire tap graph... I really liked that. Full power tunes were super clean, I had the can max out then the wire tap took over so it was seemless. Guess I should have left that version on the phone then... oh well. so from some of your guides I understand there is a "anti smoke" feature, that essentially if your curve is too aggressive (on a stock truck I'm referencing) that there is a limiter to keep it clean though you maxed all the settings like an idiot? i know this is stupid but has anyone figured out a idle lope with the V2. There is some kid on the internet that had it happen with V1. I'd assume it's possible in some manner. Im waiting for mopar man to log in. Must be having a busy few weeks...I'd like a update on his fuel eco logs. I think I'm gonna start tracking mine as well with old fashion hand checking at the pump

P1693 is just indicating an issue in another module. These trucks use the ECM as the main module so it's saying the VP44 or PCM computer has a problem. Being the truck runs it's not the VP. So PCM is the problematic part. The voltage is interesting, so the PCM controls charging as well as the trans and some body control functions like cruise control, AC request, interior light etc. it's before full CAN became the standard where everything is full computer control. So your Edge your using only communicates with the ECM. You need to get a scan tool to access the PCM to find the main issue. BUT for now, check wiring, check the plugs on the PCM. Look in the relay/fuse box under the hood, make sure everything is good there. One relay is labeled "transmission" swap it with an identical relay near it that isn't a major component. So like AC or something irrelevant. If the problem goes away a relay is probably the issue. If it exists still you may want to either check alternator function itself that it's not dead shorting the PCM, if you can find a friend and borrow a PCM to test that works too. Essentially your gonna diag without the codes. Honestly on these trucks codes mean very little. I almost never put a scan tool on them, the computer never tells you what's really wrong and generally even on brand new vehicles the code doesn't mean that's the issue. example: had a 97 7.3 Ford F-350, torque converter unlocks at cruise condition and if you accelerate at all it locks up then unlocks again. No codes, no other issue. 7 shops took a crack at it. Even put a whole transmission, PCM and wiring to the trans. 15 minutes after I got it here I found that the multifunction wire on the brake pedal switch wasn't switching to function 2. Function 2 is determined by the PCM using the resistance of the brake lights lighting up to swap to secondary function. Brake light bulbs were burnt out causing the pcm to stay in function 1 on that wire which then caused the lockup problem. After all that a set of bulbs fixed what 7 other shops and $5000 couldn't figure out. So take that how you will but just because there is a code doesn't mean that's what's up. The IAT sensor thing can be the sensor, plug, plus water proofing sleeve or the wire itself. You should fix that though, IAT helps to determine fueling and timing control

That and production gas vehicles all use stainless for longevity. If you get stock replacement for 'walker exhaust system' it's not and it's garbage tube that rusts in a year just like a flow master muffler. Worthless garbage!

This will be some testing info I've tested personally over multiple trucks for those looking for that perfect sound. Really has zero effect on power but if you want that great cummins grumble we all know and love then think about this one>>>> so your in the market for an exhaust? There is tons of options and brands....so brand is pretty much irrelevant... only changes really are the outlet angle. MBRP comes back on a 45* outlet, Diamond eye 90* outlet and some others do 60*. Really it doesn't make that big of a difference other then the amount of sound you hear in the cab. Windows down 45* is quietest, 90* is loudest. You'll hear it crack and echo off everything. Windows up 90* is quiet at speed USUALLY, 45* can start to drone at speed due to the low pressure area behind the exhaust pipe/tip. It's not much but it exists. Larger the tip the more drone at high speed. So brand isn't a big deal. Now 4" VS 5", so there isn't a difference in power, we run 4" down pipes on second gens and the flow rate of 4" OD pipe is (3.8" roughly ID) is such a high CFM that it doesn't really matter on a 5.9 liter. Your Peterbuilt 13l CAT engine would like 5". So that said 5" is deeper, tighter fitting and tends to drone more in the cab. Yes it sounds better and I use 5" whenever possible. I love the deep grunt and burp sound, it just screams cummins! Cheap 4" systems will gain you the same power but it's a little more raspy. Now the MOST IMPORTANT part! The material!!!! This makes a huge difference in sound, no performance gains but the sound change is amazing. So alluminized tubing that 80% of us run is honestly crap...in salt conditions it corrodes in a way that turns it a black color over the years. The wall diameter is usually a hair thinner depending on manufacture. The pipe itself TYPICALLY isn't truely round, when it cools the seem in the tubing warps a little So assembly sometimes can be a bear. My personal pet-peeve...drone. Alluminized vibrates, bad...you hear it under the truck, you hear a sound reverberation in the exhaust note and worst of all it vibrates and resonates into the cab from the pipe vibration under the truck. I absolutely hate drone, it's annoying. That said, stainless steel is the best! Even with a thin wall tuning the vibration/reverberation and sound dampening of the stainless is second to none. Yes the tubing is vibrating still since it's connected to the engine and of course everything vibrates but, it flexes less and holds up better to conditions. No corrosion. Some surface rust may show since it's probably from china but it'll last much longer. From personal experience a stainless system also has a much more crisp and clean sound. A to B the drone is near gone in the cab even with 5" straight pipe and a large s300 or 400 turbo that's loud beyond loud. One reason stacked trucks sound the way they do is because the stack is stainless which cleans up the exhaust note. A 4" stainlesss exhaust vs 5" alluminized, the 4" sounds better and cleaner. Much more of the deep burp noise. My personal fav is the 5" stainless though, if you want to make people think you have a small pecker in your wanna be Peterbuilt this is what you use. Deep, crisp sound with little to no drone. Each truck is different, the amount of hangars and style hangar make a big difference as well. Stacks attached to the bed, vibrate the bed and cause droning well same with under carriage exhaust. Make sure your insolators are soft and properly sized. It'll help tremendously. ive personally had 7" stack systems that you couldn't hear in the cab with the windows up, a floating stack system looks a little weird when driving, it moves independent of the body floating on the insolators attached to the frame. But it's very quiet when you want it to be. This also reduces the stress on the pipe, turbo and manifold as the engine twists under load. from personal experience: I've got 2 2nd gens, one with 4" stainless straight pipe and one with 5" alluminized with a diamond eye stainless muffler (came with the truck brand new but I'm going to switch!) if you listen to both trucks in person the 4" stainless sounds much cleaner, crisper and more angry when your on the throttle. The 5" sounds like the echo in a tunnel. Like multiple vehicles are racing due to vibration and reverberation. Now for some word to the wise info...please for the love of god don't use the stupid crush clamps... they are crap. They bend the alloy pipe so bad it hardly ever comes apart without a torch. If you want to swap turbos or mufflers or whatever don't use crush clamps. I've had so many that are so bad I just cut pipe, butt it together and either band clamp it or weld it. It really sucks to do guys... if your gonna run stainless, good stainless pipe doesn't like to bend, so the crush clamps will actually bow and not compress the pipe but rather itself. it tends not to hold and a few miles later you got yourself an axle dump you didn't want it even an open down pipe and the muffler is in the grill of a Prius....don't use them. SO that said, the best, easiest and most adjustable/usable way is the overlap-band clamp. Slide your pipe seconds together, overlap the band clamp and get it really nice and tight. Some will have a pin hole leak right around the bolt location, if that's a problem you can use some paste on the pipes swelled overlap to help seal it for inspections and such. Now you can switch down pipes, mufflers, axle dumps etc without getting the hammer out. Just unbolt and slide apart! Stainless once again is the easiest for this and less opertunitly to leak. DO NOT use alloy band clamps. They are so weak you'll just break them! Regardless of what pipe you have to use get the stainless clamps. They hold up much better and longer. They keep there shape a little better also and seal/grab way better. If you don't have a swell overlap there is Butt-band clamps for 2 identical pipe sections to mate. Again stainless clamps are best. Little flexing means a tougher exhaust and better connection. Now that your up to date....spend the dang money and get a good exhaust, the $260 special online will work yes but sound isn't great, it doesn't last as long and though stainless is much heavier it's only about 20lbs. Unless your doing a full race build it's not gonna matter... you'll be happy you went for stainless in the end. Exhausts usually go on and stay, make sure your gonna be able to live with it for 5-20 years of ownership when the dodge body is gone and your riding the frame and engine cause it's all that left lol

A lot of the time the governor pressure solenoid fails, it's supposed to go to 3rd but I've had a few times where it stays in 1st no matter what you do. May wanna start there. Hard to tell you without the vehicle in front of me honestly... another one is the throttle valve could be stuck wide open thinking it's being floored. Make sure the cable from the throttle to the trans is working and that there is a return spring for it on the trans. If it snaps which is common then the TV will stay wide open. Make sure the cable isn't frayed and hanging up. Start there, if that's not it get a scan tool and look at the gov pressure data or throw a solenoid and sensor in. There cheap assurance. Beyond that it's all valve body. If you rev the truck out to redline and let off will it upshift at all? If the 2nd gear band/strut/anchor broke or bent it'll seem like your stuck in first but if you rev it out real far then let off it'll jump to 3rd.

The delay kinda sucks I agree but good things come to those who wait lol when you do launch the screen id like to get one as soon as I can. I use my iQuad and control pod both for demo pieces for sales so I'd love to get one threw DAP when available. as for the previous post, 1. I didn't even think of tire circumference at all. That makes perfect sense! 2. Yeah this would be a killer addition to the soft ware if you'd be able to pull it off. I never turn my truck off so instead of drive threws I just go inside and let the truck idle but if it was quiet all this sudden I could potentially use the drive threw or atleast be quieter (engine clatter not exhaust which would get louder of course) when idle in parking lots where a lot of people are. 3. Apple is such a pain in the *** some times? Maybe I'll swap in a android in the truck full time then. 5. I know a second button is kind of redundant since you can just click the file again but I've had newbies make small adjustments after I showed them how to and they make the changes and just back out to gauges but don't apply the settings and they think something is wrong so I get a phone call. Maybe more end user friendly to have an 'apply' on there. 6. I know that smarty S03 can enable this feature, it's too bad that it wasn't programmed to every truck. I may have to do the S03 rental thing to enable it. Guess I'll have to figure that out. Oddly my tow rig doesn't even have factory high idle so the quadzilla is wonderful for that. The adjustable target speed would be killer so I can do AC diagnostics at high rpm or even just for effective cool downs in desert or stopped traffic. I updated (iOS) my V2 "quadzilla only" profile today within the app to version 3.9 today. Went for a small drive to do a little data log. I made some small adjustments and noticed the "wire tap" table is now gone. Was that intended or a glitch? I really really liked having that, I hope you didn't remove it... my top wire tap tune (stock truck essentially) was super clean because of it and very smooth I'd like to have that back. Thanks I'll pull it up on the laptop.

I hate to say it but that tune file is gone now....I built that truck 2 years ago now, ive swapped 2 phones since then due to shop damage IE laying things on it and crushing the phone haha if I come across another setup or my tow file for my dually ill upload that. My dually for example is a stock truck, fass, trans, exhaust....that's it. I run it can only all the time and its smoke free and nicely responsive. Of course that's no guarantee for the next truck running it since each responds different. But your short explanation on how it works makes total sense. I really considered UDC for the truck but if I want to make a change I gotta pull out the lap top and flash and flash and flash for 5 some minutes without the truck running and that sucks...specially in august and I have major health problems so heat and I don't get along at all! Speaking of UDC do you happen to have a stock ECM calibration file I could look at some how? Ive got the Smarty UDC program on my laptop, id like to see the stock timing and fuel curves myself. Reason I got the quadzilla is I made a request to DAP since im a dealer and got a Iquad at cost for my personal truck and they were also nice enough to send me a demo control pod too. I make changes and logs via Iquad but if im towing or doing something work focused and need to watch temps but ive got phone calls or something I plug the control pod in and use that for a while. Works quite well and I can show the benefits of both interfaces. So if I have some input as to the Iquad App or specifically the maps who do I talk to? you or quadzilla themselves? From what ive seen it seems your on the programming team? Noticed today your Sig says you got a 2018 now, congrats there nice trucks once the emissions is gone and the auto trans models are built, personally I like the older trucks better. id love a common rail but im still a starter company and I pour a lot of the profits back into the shop to better serve the customer and myself so ill stay with the older tech lol A point I want to make also on the economy gains mopar man was looking for, on autos stall speed makes a big change of course, his being a 5 speed 3.54 gear that puts him at 2100-2200RPM at about 70mph on a 31" tire he has listed. Good gear setup with the manuals. Auto trucks seem to like 4.10 better, 3.54 if you don't really tow anything and just want max economy. Anyways hes got a good gear set BUT one thing I think that may help is the 60/60/12 hybrid turbo he is running isn't helping much in the economy relm, its a great towing charger but a standard box HX40 60/64/18 does really really good with the 5 speed 3.54 gear trucks, I had one on my 12v in its old chassis, 24mpg on that sucker. the HX35W I got 20. cruise boost was the same but EGT itself was 480-500 on the HX40 and about 600-620 on the HX35W. im thinking at the cruise rpm of the 5 speed hes hitting the part throttle drive pressure issues where yes its making good boost and feeding the engine but that air also needs to exit and bringing the exhaust volume up too high to where the 12cm housing isn't flowing threw well enough since the WG is closed. another option besides the HX40 would be the 16 or even cheap 18 non gated housing for the HX35. ive run those before and it helps a lot. you can feel on a A-B test back to back that your not in the throttle as much and over a few tanks of fuel your suddenly going further per tank. the 18cm housings are like $68 that's a hard deal to beat specially if the fuel eco gains of 1-2 occur on how far mopar man has to drive... The suggestions to Iquad I wanna make is: 1. the iphone app in settings says the tire size is 95 inches tall for the smallest setting, ummm im not a combine so I think that's a tad off haha 2. can we please get a idle and 1000 rpm timing base map. I wanna make (and it would be popular) a drive threw tune. I write them on CR trucks its mostly idle timing is super low like on TDC or sometimes after in some cases to make the clatter silent. Biggest and most dramatic example of this is the 7.3 Powerchokes, they use that type of tune and suddenly there silent. I feel this setting would hugely benefit us VP guys. Idk about anyone here but I hardly ever turn my truck off. I go into stores, it stays running specially in the winter and super hot days when the dog is with me. It would be really cool to park off in the corner and make it very quiet. Yes the exhaust will haze but nothing really able to be done with that... Its not silent silent but here is an example, its timing and they either remove or add an injection event to silence the clatter like the new CR trucks do with multiple injection cycles. We cant really do that with VP but it would be nice to have a quiet engine idle for some situations, the exhaust will be louder but that's life...buy a muffler then 3. Apple App has no import tune button. Not sure why, I tune on the ipad so its easier to see data and drag sliders then copy it to the phone since its always with me. Had to do it manually...kinda sucks but not that big of a deal. 4. Everytime the app is minimized on apple the app doesn't idle in the background so then it re-initializes, kind of annoying but not the end of the world. 5. A manual Initialize button in custom tuning would be good, after setting changes most people don't realize if you click your tune file then it uploads to the Adrenaline, for simplicity can we get a upload button to update changes. 6. A big big help would be to trick 3-cyl High Idle. I really want this feature on demand! Also for normal high idle can we get an adjustment of high idle speed? Or even just target idle in general. Id like to be able to pull high idle to 1800rpm for AC diagnostics, 3 cylinder for cold days I need to get moving fast I can speed up the warming process. Is any of this possible? If your not the guy to ask about this maybe you can point me or forward it to someone. These features would be killer to have.