livewire

Just got off the phone with him, he said it was good to go, one year warranty still covering it, send it back he would take care of it.

Do you think Auto Computer Specialist will cover it under warrenty? Its only been 11 months and 3000 miles on this ECM build?

Hey guys, A little info: 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 extended cab 4X4, 121,000 original miles, 78,000 when i bough it. Hey guys, I recently used my truck to haul my camper to Florida and it was bucking a little bit under a hard pull, it did not throw a CEL but I put my smarty on it and it threw a P0236 MAP sensor Too High Too Long, and P0602 ECM Fueling Calibration at first i thought it may the MAP sensor, as I have never changed it or had any problems with it, but then my oil gauge started acting up, it would show oil pressure and then drop to nothing and check gauges light would come on. So I changed the MAP sensor and the oil Sensor both out, and cleared the codes and they did not come back and the truck drove fine. A few days later it acted up again when my wife was driving it. Last night I hooked up to my camper, 8500lb dry weight, and pulled it about 5 miles and the truck did fine, ran great, on the way home after dropping the camper it stumbled and stuttered a couple of times. when I got home I cycled the key, and got the following codes. Still no CEL light just thought I would check it. P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Voltage Too High P0523 Oil Pressure Voltage Too High P0606 ECM Failure P1286 APPS Sensor Supply Voltage Too High P1475 Auxiliary 5 Volt Output Too High I had trouble out of the truck a 1.5 years or so back, I was getting all kind of codes pertaining to the injection pump, I installed a new VP44, 75hp injectors, a Timbo Apps, a FASS fuel system, I did the W-T re-grounding modification ( I was having TC lockup issues), I checked the grounds and put a new Main ground lug on the grounds under the battery box. Did the dowel pin fix after dropping the keyway into timing cover (put in a new Front cover seal). Installed a new Cam sensor while I had the VP44 off. Truck ran great for 4-5 months then fried the ECM, it would not even start, throwing all kinds of codes in PCM and ECM. I sent off both units to Auto Computer Specialist and he repaired them while I tackled the truck, yep you guessed it, a shorted alternator. While waiting on my computers, I installed a new alternator, two new batteries, new coolant temperature sensor, I did the re-charging procedure with inline circuit breaker, added the inline fuse to the PCM circuit. Computers arrived shortly after and I installed them on the truck and it has ran flawlessly ever since. I know the ECM is probably toast again, but is this a random failure or is something else going on with my truck to damage my ECM? The truck runs like a scalded Dog until it seems to get warmed up and then it starts acting up, when I first start the truck when it is cold, the voltage value on the MAP, CAM sensor and Oil pressure circuit is in range, the longer the truck runs, the higher the voltage gets until it is well over the 5 volt range. Any thoughts before I send the ECM out again?

Well, the replacement they sent me is not covered by the lifetime warranty that was on the original ECM purchase, never use All Computer Resources, their communication is not good at all. Per the message above, I expect they would blame my truck if something was not right if I were to send it back.

https://www.kbb.com/dodge/ram-3500-quad-cab/2001/long-bed/?vehicleid=4070&mileage=200000&modalview=false&intent=trade-in-sell&pricetype=private-party&condition=good&options=157158|true|157158|true|157176|true|157176|true|157189|true|157189|true|6445809|true

Do you know what year it is, should be 1998.5 - 2002 if its a 24 valve also is it automatic or manual? More than $2500 for sure. It appears to be a 2 wheel drive, is that correct?

Did I post incorrectly or make an obnoxious post somehow? Several views but no replies, no advice/opinions on whether I should send back the ECM or rebuild the PCM.

Jimbo, I had all kinds of problem like this, I found out I had gotten about 10 gals of gasoline in my fuel from a truck stop when I topped off, fuel would separate out and diesel would settle to the bottom, it would fire up and it would run great until the fuel started mixing up and then it would get a gremlin, I drained the fuel tank, and filled it with fresh fuel, ran like a sewing machine. Had my VP44 back to Thoroughbred diesel twice, they were great about it though. search my threads, you will find it.

Hey guys, about 4 months after installing a rebuilt ECM on my 2001 Ram 2500 4x4 automatic transmission truck, I pulled out on the road in front of my house and started accelerating up the hill. the truck stumbled really bad, seemed to catch and then went dead. I rolled backward down the hill and rolled back into the yard and started working on the truck. It would not do anything, it would just crank over and not even try to start at all, after trying a couple of times, the fuel pump came on and would not go off until I pulled the relay/fuse. At this point I pulled the smarty out from under the seat, I hooked it up, and it gave an ERROR COMM. TIME OUT, after calling smarty, they said that there was no communication with the ECM and I should start there. It threw a couple of DTC's that were P0230, P1693, P1694, that I got from cycling the Key. P0230: TRANSFER PUMP CIRCUIT OUT OF RANGE P1693 Companion Code P1694 No CCD Messages Received From ECM. I contacted the ECM re-builder as it was under warranty, they gave me the runaround for a bit by sending me all kinds of circuit checks and test to try before sending it back, everything I did, pointed to the ECM, After several weeks they finally consented to look at it, I sent it back, it was burnt, they said it received voltage of over 18V. Message from Re-builder, Hi Customer, Your Auto Part has completed testing and simulations. Please find our results below: Customer Complaint: VIN: Correct Part#: Correct Connection: Good Circuitry: Burn / Over Voltage 18+ Traces: Burn / Over Voltage 18+ Bench/Simulator: Fail Vehicle/Motor Test: N/A Engineer: Victor T Conclusion: It has been determined that the ECC has received 18+ voltage supplied. The ECC cannot withstand voltage over 17v. Issues must be resolved within the vehicle prior to re-installation of another ECC Possible Causes: Overcharging Corroded connections Extensive Cranking Faulty Harness Blown fuses Burned fusible links in the electrical system Battery jumped reverse polarity Bad Battery Bad Alternator Shorted Coil Faulty Ground Faulty Crank Sensor Faulty Solenoid Warranty Coverage: Replacement Please note this will be your final replacement under your current warranty. If you are interested in an extended warranty please contact us within that time frame to purchase. There is no warranty on this replacement/repair as it is likely to damage the ECU for failure to properly repair vehicle. While I was waiting on the ECM, I pulled the alternator, it was in rough looking shape and it failed a bench test. I bought a new one from O'Reilly Auto Parts and installed it. I did the charging cable reroute with a 150amp breaker, and the PCM protection fuse while waiting on replacement ECM. I had already done the W-T ground mod 4 months earlier at the time of first ECM failure, I checked the batteries, checked the grounds again. I also put in a new Camshaft position sensor. However this evening, I installed the new ECM, not my original, but a warranty swap out that I received. I connected everything back up, hooked the smarty up, everything connected, set the truck to stock because the I wasn't sure how the smarty would marry to that new ECM since I could not "unlink" it from the vehicle when the ECM went out. It was no problem. Truck fired up as soon as I turned it over, ran for about 10 secs and then things went south so to speak. brake light came on, check engine light popped on, Check gauges light came on, water in fuel light, temp was pegged out at highest reading, oil pressure was showing 90psi, and then dropped to nothing, truck runs great but will surge every few mins. Alternator was charging at a steady 14 volts on the gauge, and the fuel hand never wavered. Plugged in the Smarty and got 9 DTC's, P0177 Water in Fuel P0522 Oil pressure switch low P0112 intake air temp sensor P0237 MAP sensor voltage low P0562 charging system voltage low P1488 Auxiliary 5 Volt Output to low P0342 camshaft position sensor voltage low P0606 ECM Failure P1693 Companion code Do you think the PCM got fried at the same time as the original ECM, or a bad ECM from the rebuilder??? Is there a chance something I did on the PCM protection or charging re-route could cause this problem. I cleared the codes, restarted the truck, all of them came back. checked the pins on the ecm and plugs, this truck only has 115,000 on it and it is clean.

I'm not sure what you mean, this is what I use. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/power-service-diesel-kleen--cetane-boost-32-oz It says SlickDiesel Lubricator on the bottle, is that not a lubricate?

After 363 days I got it going. Well, after quite a bit of beating my forehead into the ground, I did a gasoline in my fuel test, had over 50% Gasoline in the tank. I had filled up, added enough Dieselkleen to treat 25+ gallons. I then ran north 250 miles and picked up a Car on a trailer and headed home the next morning, on May 11th I stopped at the Davey Crockett TA Travel Center in Johnson City TN, topped off the tank from the big rig pumps "17.8 gallons - $3.18 a gal" I have the receipt. I added the rest of the bottle of dieselkleen and made it 70 miles south and was parked on the side of the road. I guess when i first checked my fuel for gas, on the side of the road. I could not detect any gasoline over the smell of the DieselKleen, it was overpowering everything on the smell test. I did do the re-grounding procedure and eliminated the ground passing over the alternator. It has total eliminated the TC lockup problem that has been so aggravating. Not really that hard and i put on all new solder on battery clamps and lugs, really cleaned everything up nice. I did have this thing to 2 different mechanics, 1 checked the fuel, never figured anything out. The other kept it locked up in his yard for 4-5 months and i had to hire a roll back to winch in to where we could load it and get it out of there. He never worked on it.

Put in the new Engine coolant temperature sensor. No change in starting, seems to idle better once started but still shut down after getting hot and won't start back.

I'm not getting any codes whatsoever. Thats why I am looking into a ground problem. My 2001 has a large bunch of grounds under the driver battery that become a corroded from battery acid but it didn't fix my problem.

Ok my truck has been broke down for several months, I took it to a diesel mechanic about 2.5 months ago. He has not been able to spend much time on it, (he works on big rigs with contracts) so I got back on it this week. He was under the impression that the injectors were bad because the truck would smoke terrible when first started and constantly smoke, just a little at idle, but would smoke pretty good if you laid into it and ran it between 2000 - 2700 rpm until it cleared the loaded up fuel out, the longer it sat and idled the more it loaded and up until you run it hard. I went ahead and threw a new set of injectors in and it did nothing, no improvement. It needed injectors as two were in bad shape, really clogged and both of these, number 2 and 4, the hold down clamps were loose as well, bolts were literally loose/backed off on the clamp. So the truck now has a FASS draw straw and lift pump mounted near tank and a new injector pump and new +75hp injectors. When the truck starts, (hard to start lots of cranking) it will run until it gets to operating temp and then it will shut off, after this is will not start back. No fuel thru injector pump as it will not smoke at all or even try to start. We did some circuit testing and found that the voltage on the injector pump plug ground (7.4V) was out of range after the truck shut down. We pulled the connectors out of the VP44 connector and checked those, we checked for shorts and loose connections. all the time we were working on it, the voltage would get closer and closer to the proper value as the truck cooled off. (checking ground with test light off of hot battery cable that tells voltage) After completely cooling (12.3V on ground), the truck starts back up and runs until it gets hot again. I had checked the ohms on the coolant temp sensor in the beginning and it checked ok when the engine was cold and the gauge shows proper temperature in cab as well. After it shut down, the guy helping me was checking voltage values again, he unplugged the coolant temperature sensor, when he did the open door bell chimed when he unplugged the sensor. We tried starting the truck with the ECT unplugged and it will start and run like a sewing machine as long as you start it with the throttle wide open and hold it at a High RPM but it will not idle, we hooked the ECT back up and it shuts down and would not start back. We checked the ECT with the engine hot and had 2.81 K-ohms, after removing it from the engine it was closer to the required values (175 - 244 k-ohms) but still low like 78 K-ohms. I ordered a new ECT this afternoon. Would this cause my truck to malfunctions this drastically, we monitored the truck with a scan tool and the ECT never showed out of range and the entire Injector pump to Cam sensor to ECT to MAP sensor circuit stayed in range according to the mechanic. I never got to use the scan tool on it myself but that is what he checked when he first got the truck. it seems that something is cutting the fuel off at the injector pump. I know #5 pin on the VP44 connector is the fuel stop but will the ECT cause it to do this?

How is it losing its prime, sucking air?? After the truck broke down I installed the new fuel supply system. Draw straw, FASS system all the way to VP44 with 1/2 fuel lines and checked return lines all the way to tank still no start. i had the bed off during this process, the return line has a nice flow back to the tank when running?

Ok after checking everything again I can get the truck to start after winding it over for a long time, takes several tries. Once it starts it will idle for a long time, once you put it in gear and start trying to back up it will start bucking and cutting out, if it goes dead it is very hard to start, could a bad injector sticking open cause this to happen? When backing up the hill from my shop, it will start surging and bumping the RPM gauge away. If you hold it at a steady RPM it will run and then just stumble a couple of hundred rpm, just a hiccup. when you put it into drive it goes dead almost everytime. I have a FASS 150 mounted on the frame beside the fuel tank, it is a strong steady supply of fuel to the VP44. The fass system has the fuel filter and water remover/separator on it. It removes the air from the fuel and returns it to filler neck. Tank is venting well, I have also had the fuel cap loose during this whole process. I installed a manual gauge about 12" before the VP44, it builds up to about 18 psi and maintains that during running, but it does not pump as long as the switch is forward while starting. Tank is 3/4 of the way full I had filled up about 110 miles before the breakdown. What to do next??????????????????????????????????

Going to try to put all the information into the first post so it will all be in here: Truck - 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 extended cab, 5.9L Cummins, 113,000 miles (Barn Find) I have had this truck since 78,000 miles, driving it two years now. About 3 months before I bought the truck lift pump was not working and the guy (that found it in a barn) kept driving it around with a hard start condition for about a month before putting on an Airdog on the frame. He owned the truck for 3 months. I buy the truck, runs great for a year and starts having a dead pedal issue. It was throwing codes for TPPS and the P0216 code. Replaced TPPS with a timbo unit. Problem was good for about two months and then came back with a vengeance and made truck almost undriveable during a warm day, cool or cold day, dead pedal 1 or 2 times. Broke down and bought a Injection pump (IP) from Thoroughbred Diesel (TB Diesel) and installed it, ran better than ever for 6 weeks and then one day while coming thru Knoxville Tn, hauling a car on a trailer, it just died in 6 lanes of traffic. Long story short, I got it home and started diving in, truck was not throwing any codes, first thing I did was bought a FASS fuel stem and draw straw and installed it because the Airdog was working but making a really bad sound (beer can in dryer) and I wanted the filtration system of the FASS as well. I was not getting any fuel thru the injectors, 1 and 4 would push out some foamy fuel but nothing with any kind of pressure. The truck would startup sometimes when cold,and run for 5 -10 min and then shut down never to start again that day. After I determined that I was getting good fuel to the injection pump, I looked into the IP, talked to TB Diesel and troubleshot some stuff with them and they agreed the pump had failed. Took it off and shipped it back, they tested it 2 times and said it passed with flying colors. They sent the pump back and I installed it, opened up all the injectors but #2 and bled the air out and trucked fired up like a champion, truck ran for 45 minutes while I was reinstalling bed from where I had installed the draw straw. I shut off the truck for 15 min to install two bolts near exhaust, truck never started again. But did throw a DTC Code P1689. Talked to TB again, and they rented me a Breakout/test box to run on the IP to see if it was the problem, as long as the box was hooked up the truck would start great and as many times as you wanted, messed around with it for 2 days trying to get it to overheat and shutdown as before, no hiccups at all, ran for over 2 hours on test box, but the high idle button on the test box would kill it if you pressed it. TB didn't think that was a problem and recommended I look into a short in wiring/ECM now that the P1689 code was present. Tested out the injection control circuit using a couple of posts on here about the P1689 code, sent the ECM off to be tested they confirmed it was faulty and sent it back, finally gave in and ordered a new ECM and installed it yesterday, it was a plug and play unit and the truck started up the first time great, I shut it off after running for 15 minutes, started back up, but had a little bit of hesitation. It threw on some check engine lights and when I went to check the DTC's with my smarty, it said ECM Changed and had a P1694 code, smarty was still VIN locked to old ECM. I reinstalled my old ecm/core this morning restored the ecm and pcm to stock (unlocked the Smarty from the truck) and then reinstalled the new ECM and trucked had a hard start condition but finally fired up. Ran it for about thirty minutes with air on, accelerated nicely, it would rev up to 3000 rpm no problem, went to test drive the truck, as soon as I took it out of park went dead, will not even offer to start back. No DTCs, I checked fuel at the injectors #1 and #4 pushing out foamy fuel again, nothing out of #3 no pressure. Lift pump is maintaining 12-14 psi when it sits idling. I have went over the wiring on this truck, checked every ground I can find, test lighted the IP plug, checked bottom of fuse box for corrosion, swapped out relays, Batteries were installed new about 6 months ago but had both of them tested, check my battery cable ends. I am at the end of my rope, i suspect a short in harness, but how do I find it? I did unhook the batteries each time before working on any electrical connection. Any help would be great, one guy asked me if my Brake lights worked???? I have not verified that but I have checked numerous grounds, I found one unhooked on under the brake controller, but it appears to have never been attached to anything. it was coiled up and wire tied together. Please Help??