dave110

Have not done anything to the truck for a while. If it would be the filter housing wouldn't the air stay there because it is a high point in the system? I'm going to try tightening the return fittings today and see what I find.

Hello all! I have developed a hard start/ long crank after the truck sits for awhile, even if just over night. I thought the bat's where bad so I had them checked and they were good. They guy at the local shop that does just starters and alternators has a 2nd gen. Cummins and thought it cranked a little slow so I put in a rebuilt starter.( I took it apart when I got home just to see and they did put in oversized contacts like the ones from Larry B's ). WOW! It cranks almost twice as fast now. Thought I solved my problem but the next morning it still cranked for 3-5 seconds til it started. Used to be it would roll over 1 time and light off and it is still that way when it is warm but let it sit a few hours and it cranks long. So I have decided I am losing fuel prime. Watching closer today I got a puff of white smoke at startup. I parked nose down but no change. I bumped the starter and let the LP run to try to purge the air out but no help. In researching I found some good suggestions but also have some ?? now. Some say the stock filter housing but that is already a high spot. How would air get from there down to the VP and up to the head? I'm assuming the return line in back of the head or the "T" fitting behind the stock LP but I have not even the smell of a fuel leak. If air is getting in, fuel should be getting out. If air is getting in it is displacing fuel that has to be going somewhere. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm just trying to understand how this works to make it easier to diagnose. Oh, I almost forgot. It seems the banjo washers and grommets for the return line must come from Cummins. I don't have a dealer close by. Do they have a website with a parts breakdown with part #'s or does anyone know the part #'s? Anything I am missing? Thanks!

OK Thanks. I'll check it out sometime.

Got any pics of where this is at? And how often should it be changed? I need to do my dads 09 sometime. Glad mine is just some steel wool and a hose

Well, it fixed itself again. I wish it could've done it when my 53 block cracked.

Would a sticking solenoid only stick on throttle off? Unlocks fine when I hit the brake or go below 20-25mph. Just trying to cover all the bases before I take another ATF+4 bath.

About 15k ago a new TC and total fluid change. Was supposedly rebuilt 33k ago before I bought it.

What do you think this is?

Not too worried in fact I kind of like it but I'm wondering what causes my problem. My TC doesn't unlock when I let off the throttle. Go on the brakes and it works OK. when it gets down to about 20mph (in 3rd) it unlocks by itself and sometimes if I blip the throttle it will unlock. It's like having a free ATS Copilot. It did this awhile ago and then cleared up for a year and now it's back. Shifts fine otherwise. I'm thinking APPS or something throttle related. Any idea's?

I can't tell you what it is but mine appeared to jell the other morning when about 18f outside. Not that cold and never happened before. That weekend while cutting firewood I had it parked going down a steep downhill and got the water in fuel light twice. Drained the separator when I got home and put some diesel treat in which I have not done in years and had no trouble since. If I got a bad load of fuel it would be the first time ever at the station I get it at but I guess anything is possible? Any white smoke? Mine ran rough and smoked like H when it was jelled.

Well, I learned something today. I put a new rear speed sensor in and my lights went out. Shut off, and keyed back on and there is my THUNK again. So the noise is something to do with the ABS unit. Unfortunately it short lived and the lights are back on. I can sit in the truck with it running but not moving and watch them go out and come back on again. Sometimes when I back up they will flash on and off. But one thing's for sure.... when the lights are off the thunk is present at key on. I'm leaning toward the electronic part of the unit being bad. I'll try a little more but I'm ready to pull the fuses and go without. Thanks for the responses.

[. Very easy to swap the sensor out also

The problem is I'm not hearing the clunk now. I should mention that my speedo and grid heater work.

Hello all. So it's soon time for state inspection and like last year my abs and brake light come on just in time to give me something else to worry about. Last time they went out and have not come back on till now. What's different is I don't have the CLUNK when I turn the key to pre heat position. That clunk is the ABS pump right? Would a malfunctioning speed sensor cause it not to clunk or do I have another problem? I read the diagnostic article but it didn't address it. Also, I have contemplated just pulling the fuses and bulbs and running without ABS since I don't like it anyway. I read some guy did this and some time later the brakes locked up going down the road. I have a hard time understanding how that would happen, but could it?

I have this problem too from time to time. It's been steady for over half a year now. Not sure what the cause is:shrug:

It's the one in behind the pulley,3/8 I think, and just far enough so the wrecnh slides in

If it's not leaking oil you're prob OK. The bracket mounts to the engine with 4 bolts and the fan mounts to it. I'll see if I can get a pic. Mine's a 99 on it's second engine and both had stepped case. I peened it over just to be sure. Oh, and I had to grind a cheap wrench down to get on the one bolt but it's still better than fighting that fan nut.

- - - Updated - - -You don't remove the pulley. Just the bracket and the pulley, fan and all comes along. The case cover can be RTV'd on like it is from the factory. I would make sure your crank nose does'nt have a groove in it before you buy that seal. If it has a groove like mine did you can get a sleeve to slide on the crank nose and an oversize seal to fit.

That's the easiest way right there.

Thank you Sir! Don't know how I missed it. I'm so used to going right to the forums that I forgot the articles. Thanks for pointing me to it.

Some time ago before I needed to replace my heater core I remember reading a thread where Mike said " I'm gonna show you how easy it is to remove a dash on one of these trucks. I shoulda saved the write-up because now that I need it I can't find it. Can anyone tell me where the dash removal write-up is? :doh:Thanks, Dave

Cover needs a gasket too. I permatexed mine because it was that way from new but I think they offer a gasket too. - - - Updated - - - Oh yeah, and also check to make sure your crank doesn't have a groove in it from the old seal. Mine did and I had to get a sleeve for it. No big deal though and Advance Auto had it and the seal as a kit.

I used Thedieselstore.com for mine and couldn't be happier. It came with an overflow valve when I bought it. I think they are $994 now.

Old thread but I thought this is the place for my comment. I had been having to slowly turn my Raptor up over time and was getting alot of pressure drop at wot. Changed the filter but no help. Was going to pull it apart but before I got to it we had a week of single digit temps here and one cold 6 deg morning my gauge was at 30psi. My first thought was that fuel had gelled in my line to the sender and it would release when it warmed up. It didn't so I figured the cheap Glowshift sender crapped again but before replacing I put a mechanical gauge in the test port and it confirmed the 30 psi. I turned it down to 18 and hooked the Glowshift up again and it agrees with mech gauge. Now pressure is rock solid with only a few psi drop at wot:shrug:. I can't explain it but I wanted to share it. Hope I didn't wreck anything running at 30psi. I guess time will tell.

Thanks for the info. I drive mostly the same routes so I have a pretty good idea of what my temp should be at what location. Where it was normally at 190 I kept driving and 180ish was as hot as it got. The full open at 207 is great for me to know. Pulling my trailer the other day in some hilly terrain it would go to 207 and then fall off quickly to stabilize around 190. I guess I was just really lucky before with my Powerstroke and the stat I had in this truck. I've had it for 4 years now and it always was a steady 190. I might try a Cummins stat yet to see if I can get back to what I thought was normal. One things for sure. If I had circulation issues like I originally thought I would have melted it by now.