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dave110 last won the day on April 11

dave110 had the most liked content!

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About dave110

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    out of sight, out of mind, out of money

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    S.C. PA.

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  1. We're not seeing each others points, and for that I apologize. I did not throw ECM out there without good reason. If your truck takes 5 sec. to start it's not because it needs the grids to come on. Especially not at 60 degrees. They did not come on because the ECM was slow to boot, which points to it starting to fail. And the truck will not start until the WTS lite comes on. I have no way of knowing if you know this already or not so I brought it up in an attempt to help. I know because I've already been there and went through it. Sorry for any confusion. I'll step out now and let your thread carry on.
  2. I didn't mean to tell you something you already know. Reason I brought it up is I have my grids switched off and only use them above 30 deg. Even then it fires right up. Just smokes and idles rough for a short bit. At 59 you should still get the grids.
  3. You mean the did not come on? If so time to read up on ECM failures.
  4. Yeah, that would not be good. For reference the small splines drive the input, the large ones the lockup clutch, and the notch on the end drives the pump. Do I have that right? If not correct me, it's been awhile. It would be good for @rogerash0 to know and understand.
  5. You're right. Thanks for correcting that. 2 sets of splines to line up and then the notches on the end.
  6. I've had mine out both with and without the transfer case. Unless you have a real jack I would separate them. It's alot of teeter totter and weight when they are together. Keep in mind though I have the $90 Harbor Frieght jack. It's not alot of extra work to separate them and makes life easier in my opinion. I had to jack up about 4" to roll it out on the jack. I would do it at home if it was me simply for the reasons you stated. If you run in to trouble you will be paying $8 an hour for the truck to just sit there. And the cross member. Don't be scared by all the horror stories you read. Look at it. It has to go up first as it sits in a wedge by design. Then it's free to go back and out. Might need to jack a little pressure under it and hammer tap it to break the rust free, but sledge hammers, gas wrenches, cussing and swearing are not necessary. I'll let the experts explain the TC seating since I'm sure there is a trick or two I don't know. One time it went right in and the other it was a challenge. You are right about the 2 clunks. One for the TC to go on the input and the other as it seats to the pump gear.Have a case of your choice chilling in the fridge for when you get done. It takes time the first time but is not that hard of a job.
  7. dave110

    grid heater delete

    I've always enjoyed being non-typical. Mine are on a switch.
  8. dave110

    grid heater delete

    You're welcome. And welcome to the forum
  9. dave110

    grid heater delete

    Yes, the 2 big wires at the battery on the drivers side. If you don't ever need the heaters and the codes bother you then that is the best way.
  10. dave110

    grid heater delete

    If you don't need them just disconnect the wires to the relays at the battery and no codes will be thrown.
  11. Looks like the one in the back 'bailed' off before it could get it's picture taken.
  12. About 16 ounces?
  13. dave110

    3,000 HP?! When is it enough?

    I know the feeling. I do more and more all the time.
  14. Only thing I don't like about that is if you're forgetful like me and leave the switch on.............well you get the idea. That's why I spliced into mine. When I turn them off they are off no matter what, but when they are on the ECM will operate them normally and turn them off when I forget. My forgetter is getting better . Come to think of it I think you said you use a momentary switch would will also protect you in the event you forget.