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  1. Ya, you guys are right. Thanks for the reminder. I was pulling a long steep hill towing the trailer. 2x I pulled over, part way up, to let the fuel pressure build up to 17. Sat for a while at idle to cool down the VP. It helps probably, but it ain’t right, nor the solution. Enough screwing around. I’ll order up the mechanical pump, off the crank pulley.
  2. Just a follow up report. Two week vacation towing a 23 ft travel trailer all around. Trailer is probably 6,000 lbs loaded up. Lots of driving. Lots of hills. Hiway speeds too. ISS Pro fuel gauge that I installed and trust, gives me readings. 60-65 mph on flat nets me about 12 psi. Lots of hills (up and down) and winding roads. Backing off the throttle for corners and down-hills, fuel pressure quickly goes back to 14-16 psi. At idle maintains about 17 psi. Pulling hard up steep hills, watching all my gauges, I back off throttle and gear down. I maintain 10-11 psi. 10-12 lbs boost. 1,000F EGT. Stock engine and newer stock turbo. So far the Herko is hanging in there. VP-44 temps? I have no idea. I do go over 14 psi fairly often. Guessing it’s doing an adequate job cooling.
  3. So far no problem here. Been running the Herko since March. Lots of towing. Depending on the load I’m towing it maintains 10-12-14 or so psi at 65 mph. Not awesome but certainly better than the stock Carter pump. I’m saving pop-cans to get the mechanical pump off the crank. Hopefully my VP holds out. Lol.
  4. I had heated up my old rotors and had a caliper of unknown age seizing. So I had some vibration but it felt different. I installed new rotors, calipers and pads. If the couple of studs were not quite seated properly I was thinking they were the culprit. As mentioned I am going back in to install new wheel bearings with new studs. Thinking I should press in the new studs. Ensuring they are fully seated.
  5. I recently performed my first rotor swap on my 98.5 2500. I pounded out the wheel studs with a single hit of a 5lb sledge. Easily came out. I swapped the wheel bearing assy over to the new rotors. Used same sledge to set the studs back in the same wheel bearing housing. A few studs did not want to set back in place flush. I whacked ‘em a few times and carried on. Thinking I’d pull ‘em right thru when I torqued the lug nuts up at wheel installation. Well I’m still cranking a few nuts tight. I’ve been test driving and get a slight vibration when braking. I have driven, braked and got hubs warm, then retorqued 3X. Seems I am almost there as the vibration is improving with each retorque. What is the correct procedure? A hydraulic press I assume? To seat the wheel studs in the bearing hub properly, the first time? I’m goin back in as I decided to order up new front wheel bearings. Mine appeared original. I ordered new NGK USA built bearings. Came with new studs too. I’d like to seat them right this time. Also I read 175 ft lbs on the centre nut for bearing pre-load. Plus a little more to align the cotter pin. Seems high but I have limited experience with the truck. I’m used to 3-4 ft lbs on other light vehicles I’ve owned. This Torque is right? Just double checking. I appreciate your experience Thx.
  6. My 98.5 does have the rear load sensing valve. I will consider unhooking it and strapping the lever in the uppermost position. My trailer brakes are in great shape. I took them apart. Inspected cleaned and adjusted. They are nice and tight. I can lock the trailer brakes up using my electronic brake controller. I chose a hitch with anti-sway bars It too doubles as a weight distribution type hitch. Upon installation I did not tweak it to max transfer more weight to the front axle. The tongue weight is still nicely loading up the rear suspension. I chose the anti-sway type hitch to minimize the sail-like effect of trailer walls at hi-way speeds. I was driving a 2017 F-250 today. It has a digital inclinometer. I can’t vouch how accurate it is. It reads in degrees. I drove up my problem-hill today. Average reading was around 6 -7 degrees. However some spots registered 8 degrees. Converting degrees to % slope, that converts to 11% - 12% average. Up to 13% slope at a couple points. No wonder my rotors warped pretty much immediately after a trial run down. Second run down I manually worked the trailer brakes to have them do more of the work, sooner. I can’t take it any slower going down. Gravity wants to pull you at a fixed rate. As mentioned: in first, auto tranny...not gonna do it. I just ordered a set of heavy duty commerial tow grade rotors and pads. New up-rated calipers too. I’ll replace all and also the wheel bearings. All are cooked anyway. Barring this, the next step I am prepared to take is obtaining a lighter trailer. There’s no accounting for the decision to alllow this goat trail to be built, and passed as a drivable road.
  7. I agree guys my 24V eats up normal driving conditions. Hwy or city roads. However, try a 10% grade down hill for 3 miles towing a heavy load. Auto tranny dropped into first gear. Keeping your speed at under 30 mph...I have found the limits of a stock truck. Everytime I hit the brakes this week I am reminded.
  8. Yes my truck is 4x4. Posi-lock?How does that look? I’m unsure. How could I get 2 wheel low? Thx.
  9. I towed my 1938 Plymouth car over 450 or so miles of hiway at various grades over the weekend. I towed an 1800 lb trailer loaded up with a 2800 lb car as well as as additional 400 pound engine block. I was very impressed. The auto tranny was just fine on normal roads and hi-ways. I switched off the OD when climbing hills. Braked and geared down on descents. No issues with brake heat due to excessive breaking. The only issue seems to be the darn steep winding hill near my house. It’s cooking my breaks. It is too winding and steep to lay off the brakes, and descend safely. Otherwise the auto tranny and the 24V 5.9 are certainly adequate for my needs. Dang.
  10. If I have 3.55:1 rear end, and first gear is 2.45:1 is my final ratio 6:1 when in first gear? If I had 4.10 gears, and retained the same tranny, in first at 2.45:1, is my new final drive ratio 6.55:1? Hmm. I wonder how much effect that may have on the hill, both up and down?
  11. John you make some real valid points. The tranny gearing is likely suspect. I have the 47RE. First ratio is 2.45:1 Like you said, hardly ideal. Rear end diff ratio I am not 100% sure. I'll get under there and see diff tag. My tires are stock. Engine is stock.
  12. An update: After the initial tow test with the trailer, I was also not happy with the brake performance. I pulled the rear drums to find them at the end of spec. I had an "oil-misted" wheel cylinder. The front pads and rotors seemed ok. I proceeded to replace rear cylinders, shoes, all springs and hardware. New drums and 2 new rear brake lines. After setting everything up, seemed good. Certainly I feel safer now. This darn aggressive long hill I must deal with, now has me concerned about front brakes. They are getting quite hot. The trailer brakes are working very well. I can lock them up. New tires on the trailer. I go down the hill in first gear, auto tranny. I brake as little as possible however need to maintain a comfortable speed. The powertrain offers little to hold back the speed on the descent. I don't ride the brakes, and additionally I manually hit the brake controller to put a little more to the trailer brakes when braking. Also keep in mind, the trailer is not loaded up yet. The trailer is well within spec of the truck's capacity. The previous owner did the rotors and pads about 2800 miles ago. I have no idea what quality rotors or pads were used. What are my options here? I am not feeling comfortable about this hill every time I leave home with the trailer in tow. Shall I consider premium HD long life brakes? Drilled and slotted rotors? High performance brake pads? Will this help dissipate some heat? Maybe the rotors on there now are economy cheap crap. I don't know. The heat is going to kill them. Does anyone offer an exhaust brake for my 98.5 24V? A feasible solution? Do 1T trucks have larger brakes? I assume so. Wondering, maybe I should have went 1T. What about if I pull over at the top of the hill and engage 4WD low range? Likely this will hold me back, however at what expense to the drive box gears and bearings? Stress them to destruction eventually? Ideas, tips are welcome.
  13. Interesting! So I went back out and tweaked the rear manual adjusters even more. Moving the shoes yet closer to the drum. I read that the proportion valve limits hydraulic braking power to the front, until there is enough pressure built up on the rear brakes. Some sort of system relief in the proportion valve determines this. The rear wheel pistons only travel so far. Really not much at all. With the rear drums out of adjustment, the rear hydraulic pressure does not built up quite enough to offer full equal braking front and rear, it seems. Braking is better now. Like it was before I started this brake work. However, I'd still like the pedal higher with more positive feel. I suppose one should consider the 21 year old master cylinder at this point. Likely well past it's prime. The previous owners did not do a good job with brake maintenance. Wheel cylinder brake fluid came out looking like the ganges river.
  14. 1998.5 24V. Rear wheel ABS. Recent work included: 2 new rear wheel cylinders. New rear shoes. New shoe springs & related hardware and new rear drums. Two rear brake lines were so corroded they snapped off at the nut on wheel cylinders. I made new lines. Mounted everything up. Unfortunately had to go to work, and could not get the new lines on for a day or two so master self drained. All rear shoes and hardware seemed to go on fine, and appears to be functioning properly. Recently I read several posts about bleeding brakes. I filled up master and started with my mity-vac vacuum system at each corner. Attempted to bleed by myself. Little results felt on the pedal. Tried again this morning with a helper and manually bled the system. Helper pumped and held down while cracked lines. I started at the master cylinder lines and bled, then on to the proportion valve line connections. Then the ABS connections. Then left rear, then right rear cylinders. Then front right and finally front left. All the while constantly topping up the master cylinder reservoir. Not allowing any air in the system. Master cylinder is still too low. I have rear end jacked up, re-installed wheels and fired up the truck. Rotated wheels and applied the brakes. I am barely getting enough to stop the rear wheels. There are no leaks. I just can't seem to get enough power through the master to each wheel. Maybe there is more air in there? I've gone through a fair bit of brake fluid and pumping. Brakes worked fine before I touched them. I went in for a leaking rear seal and went further based on other findings. Front pads are decent. Going back out now to manually adjust the rears. Make sure they are right and try again. Any tips? Thanks. Keith
  15. Thanks for your feedback so far folks. The truck has 156,000 miles. Stock injectors. The trailer as mentioned is 4,950 dry. Loaded up to the max, (which we hope I'm not doing) it's rated at 7,7670 lbs GVWR. Meaning I have room for 2,720 lbs of cargo, water etc. I will do some research on injectors. Thanks for the tip. My pyro is installed at the exhaust manifold collector right before the turbo mount flange. Slightly off center, toward the rear of the engine. I assume a tuner is required to advance the stock timing? I will pursue to the tranny temp gauge hook up next.
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