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keithb7

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  1. keithb7

    keithb7

  2. My 98.5 24V has a hose that comes down and ends up near the front pinion yoke. I did not like the slight drip from my diff pinion area. I thought it was the pinion seal. I changed the seal and cleaned everything up. Then I extended the hose slightly longer so now the drip comes off lower down past everything. Straight to the ground. About a small spot about the size of a quarter drips out after each drive. It does not ammount to much. Just an annoyance on my driveway. I get out there with some heavy duty degreaser, a scrub brush and a hose every few months and clean up the spots. My diff and pinion are staying clean too now!
  3. The wear on the valve train components, to me is concerning. The top end is the last to get oil. It takes a few seconds to get oil pressure up there every time you start the engine. Residual oil sits there from the last time the engine was shut off. So you get some protection. Cold starts, cold thick oil, add more time to get oil up there. Let these engines get oil up there before any throttle is applied, at initial start up. This is where good quality oil really shines, in valve train components. They have the highest stresses in the engine, is my understanding. Once the rocker shafts and bores are scored like this, you're into the shxt, and it keeps getting worse and worse from what I have seen. Oil samples sent to a lab will turn up metal, coming from these scored surfaces. I'd get those parts out of any engine that I intend to keep and run. The metal will get picked up by your filter, however what will it go through before it gets to the filter? What about a filter that goes into by-pass mode? Bad stuff. On another note, speaking of Turbos. Just this week I wrapped up the install of a new stock replacement Holset HX35W in my 98.5. Wow. What a difference. There was some end shaft play present on the original turbo. I noticed the original turbo was starting to let oil through to the air intake side. If you have a high mile turbo, I'd waste no time thinking about replacing it. I'd just do it, based on what benefits I experienced.
  4. Swap is complete. Flashed up and test drove. Nice results! It pulls hills better and seems to have more grunt. I can feel it. I wish had a gauge installed to measure boost with the old turbo to compare to the new one. I am proceding with a boost, pyro, and transmission temp gauge package now. This job was rewarding and well worth my time and investment. Just wondering: Had I taken my truck in to a shop for a boost test, followed by a new replacement stock Holset turbo, what would that likely have cost? Parts and labor of course. Around here I’d guess $3K USD out the door?
  5. I just about ready to flash up with the new turbo. I have read that engine oil should be changed when installing a new turbo. I assume due to the tight tolerances that are present and lubricated by the oil. I have about 1500 miles on a full synthetic oil and new filter when I serviced the truck last October. 5W40. Seems kinda wasteful to dump that pricey oil. I get clean oil and its benefits. Just wondering if the general statement to change oil is pretty generic and they are assuming you have old dirty oil? I chose 5W40 based on our cold Canadian winters and getting good cranking speed. It was effective and I never plugged in all winter and it flashed up just using the air intake pre-heater. I’m thinking if I’m going to dump this oil, I’ll go with conventional oil this time. Then dump it again in the fall to put synthetic back in for the winter.
  6. This is the first time for me replacing a turbo on a diesel engine. I would like to crank the engine to get a good supply of engine oil up to the turbo, before actually stating the engine. What is the proper procedure to do this? Is there a fuse that can be pulled so the VP 44 won't push fuel? Thanks.
  7. I pulled the original turbo today. I confirmed that there is oil in the air exit of the turbo and coming from what appears to be the shaft area. There was an oil coating on the inside of the pipes and flex hoses down to the cooler. The wastegate appears frozen as I cannot move the linkage at all. I pulled everything out for cleaning and ordered a new stock Holset HX35W replacement. I am looking forward to some renewed boost. Is there a special tool or technique to get the forward lower turbo nut off? I was able finally figure out a way. Not an easy nut to loosen. If I recall, spec is 24 ft lbs on those nuts when re-installing new turbo. How in the heck do you get a torque wrench on those turbo nuts? Pretty tight in there!
  8. Thanks folk for the great feedback an insight. I like the ideal of a mechanical pump I will look into it.
  9. Hi folks. I am interested in settling on the right fuel transfer pump for my 1998.5 24V 2500. My engine is stock. I have no plans to increase horsepower or torque. I have 157,200 miles. I bought the truck last August. Right before I bought it, the VP44 had failed and been replaced in June. However the lift pump was not replaced. I decided to dig in a learn a bit about this known problem. I purchased a fuel pressure test gauge and checked the stock Carter pump. Readings were ok for the stock system, but a little down. I decided to change it out ASAP with another stock Carter pump at that time. I wanted to experiment and track some results. With the new Carter in I was getting 10 psi at idle. Dropping down about 6.5 to 7 psi pulling a steel hill. I proceeded to install a digital ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge and drove in that state it over the past winter. Over winter, I continued on to read about various high performance fuel lift pumps. I bumped into the Airtex or Herko fuel lift pump. Priced at about $70 so I decided to try the Herko. I put it in about a week ago. Fuel pressure at idle is 16-17 psi. Pulling hills drops to about 9-10 psi. A considerable improvement over the stock Carter. Hi-way speeds on flat ground the Herko makes about 14 psi. My understanding is the check valve inside the VP44 opens at 14 psi allow for proper full cooling of the pump electronic circuit board. Is this correct? It seems odd to me that the Bosch needs to see 14 psi to cool, yet Dodge engineers chose a max-10 psi at idle, fuel pump. I own a 23 ft travel trailer I plan to tow. If the VP44 does indeed need 14 psi for proper cooling, I suppose I should be looking at a pump that can maintain minimum 14 psi at all times. Am I on the right track here? Do I really need to be looking at these expensive AirDog or FASS pumps at $600 to $800? Seems pretty pricey for a stock HP truck. I understand that saving the VP44 is the idea here, as they are big bucks. Looking at the Gino's catalog here as I type this, they offer a mid-level upgrade. The FASS High Performance Adjustable Fuel Pump at $464. I assume if I go this route I'll also need to upgrade the fuel suction lines. It's been interesting learning about the various pump options. I have already spent $200 screwing around with pumps and learning. I do my own work and do enjoy it. Thoughts and tips settling on the right right lift pump for me are appreciated. Thanks. Keith
  10. 1998.5 24V Automatic tranny 4x4 2500. Hi folks. I have a considerable amount of turbo end shaft play. 208,800 miles. I have not checked boost pressure however I see oil is dripping off exit hose & clamp at ATAAC. I suspect I am pushing oil though the ATAAC as the turbo shaft seals and bearings are failing. Looking at stock turbo replacement options. I am planning to stick with stock size. Looking at replacement turbo options for a 1998 year I see a few choices. Some state "For Engine Vin code D". I assume that means diesel? Other turbo options read for "Engine VIN 6". I am unsure what that means, My engine tag is below. I don't see anything labeled VIN code. Maybe I need to look elsewhere? Perhaps 1998 options listed are covering both the 12V and 24V engine turbo options. Perhaps I should look at 1999 turbo options. There are fewer options listed. I am in Canada. There are a few turbos listed under 1998 year "With Canada Emissions". I assume this I need? I believe the stock turbo on my engine is a Holset HX35. I will confirm later. Another issue the oil in my ATAAC. I assume I need to pull the ATAAC and have it properly cleaned and tested to ensure good flow again. What other tasks can I expect once I get in there? This is my first time personally doing this work so tips are appreciated. I will change all gaskets and planning new turbo oil line too. What about the soft hoses in the intake? Thanks in advance.
  11. Before I lay down big bucks for a FASS or Airdog I decided to give the Herko fuel lift pump a try. 1998.5 Ram 2500 Cummins 5.9L 24V. The Herko pump Installed pretty easily. I had to grind one corner off the mounting plate on the pump to make it fit. My stock location is left rear of engine block. My Herko pump did not come with the 90 degree adaptor for the fuel line from tank hook up. It is not needed. I was able to clip my stock fuel line on to it no problem. The rest of the details and psi readings are here in the video. Yep a FASS or Airdog is likely in my future. We'll see how this Made In China Herko pump holds up. I can monitor it with my gauge. I will carry my spare stock Carter pump for long trips! Stock Carter 10 psi at Idle. Drops to 6.5 psi pulling hard on a hill. Herko pump 16 psi at idle. Drops to 9 psi pulling hard on a hill. https://youtu.be/JzvnjtBpQIw
  12. Hi folks I own a 1998.5 with Cummins 5.9L 24V Ram 2500. Automatic. 4x4. I got under the truck to try and ID the tranny. I learned where stamped ID numbers were located. I can read 10PK522195, I think. Hard to read. I would need to get a wire brush and some break clean to better read it. Does my truck likely have the 47RE tranny? I see a good used one for sale locally. Seems like a good price. Thinking of picking up for a spare. Mine is at 261,000 KM currently. No problems. Just planning to keep the truck long term. Could store the tranny easily. Thanks, Keith
  13. This topic interests me as I too am interested in an OBDII reader for my 1998.5 24V 2500 truck. I am hesitant to buy one as my understanding is not all OBDII readers can read all the codes in my truck. I did try one that was for sale locally for my ABS code, and found that it could not read it. This suggested reader above will not work for me either as it is not able to work with a Mac iphone. I am open to suggestions on an OBDII reader that will work with my truck. Thanks.
  14. Is the noise mainly from combustion? I'll guess our engines may sound different based on air/fuel ratio, compression, condition of valve sealing area, condition of injectors and amount of fuel delivery. Operating altitude and amount of boost?
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