Southpole560

My oil temp generally stays at or around 197°F. I have used 35x12.50, 265/75R17, and 295/70/R17, with little or no change in the temperature. I'm using the genuine adrenaline oil temperature sensor in the head of the oil filter housing. Is this a normal temp it should sit around? Could my oil cooler not be working efficiently? I'll be switching to 245/70R17 tires here pretty soon.

I got an update, I replaced the oil pressure bypass spring, oil pressure regulator, and my oil pressure has gone up a couple psi. I changed out the regulator first (inside the housing) with no change to pressure. When I changed the bypass (externally on top of housing), it looks like it made a pressure change. It sits around 52 psi @ 65mph with 295/70R17 tires and a 3.54 rear end ~1800rpms. I also had an oil analysis done and everything is looking good in the engine @ 406k!

Alright I have an update; I got the hvac control section from a donor truck at pick-n-pull and it ended up being the vacuum selector switch. Everything works good now and the recirculation vent opens/closes again!

Yup that's the stuff!

I just got 4 more gallons of the Magna1 again at the Walmart in Woodburn, OR for $7 a gallon! Talk about a deal

Normally I would get the supertech 2-stroke oil but I couldn't pass up the deal for $13 on semi synthetic 2-stroke. Supertech oil was $14.44 for the longest time and just recently changed to $12.83. I wonder why they lowered the price on it.

Hey guys, just wanted to let you know that when I was at Walmart the other day I saw that they had a sale on the magna1 semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil for $13. I thought that was a really good deal so I picked up about four gallons of it. I don't know if this is better than the regular 2-stroke supertech oil but I feel like it might be since it is semi synthetic.

Just out of curiosity, would anything bad happen if you set the timing statically on the Quadzilla throughout the rpm bands? I'm wondering what would happen or if the 24v would then act like a 12v.

The individual lines on the back come off of the rubber manifold? Well dang, I didn't even realize that

Yea I'm not too worried about it, just wondering what exactly changed.

Yea I could swap it, just don't want to because there's nothing else wrong with it. If I can find a good deal on a whole unit I'll probably just do that. The vacuum line has a strange connection to the back of the selector so if it is broken somewhere I'll probably have to get a vacuum splice or figure out a method.

I'm thinking I'm gonna have to get the entire assembly unfortunately. I might be able to strip one apart if I can find it at picknpull. All the other actuators work, it's just the recirculation one that doesn't. I checked the recirculation line from the vacuum selector to the actuator and there is a vacuum on it but it is very weak when the truck is on. I'm almost positive that it is the selector. The only other thing it would be is the green vacuum line that goes from the selector to the actuator but it still seems very plyable and not stiff. I don't know how that would crack and create a leak though. Hopefully it's just the selector because if not I gotta rip the entire dash apart again just to replace that stupid green line

The readings I'm getting are from my aftermarket oil pressure gauge, not from the factory one. Yea it looks like I'm still good but I'm wondering what might have changed. I sent in an oil analysis so I will see what they say in the next few weeks.

Alright so I might have done something really stupid. I put 2 bottles of the amsoil engine flush in my engine and ran it for an hour on high idle. I did this when I was checking/charging my AC system. I know that you are only supposed to do it for 15 minutes but the only thing in the amsoil engine flush is just detergents, no solvents so I thought it wouldn't hurt anything. After the flush I changed the oil with fresh 15w-40 and a new oil filter. So afterwards I noticed that when I was driving on the freeway @ 65mph, my oil pressure sat at 49-50psi. It would normally sit around 54-56psi but it seems that something changed. I'm around ~1840 rpms when the speed is 65mph. I changed the oil and filter around 3000 miles to see if the pressure would change but it did not. I also changed out the oil pressure regulator(not the oil drain back) and its still exactly the same. When the truck idles it sits around 18-20 when it used to be 20-22. Should I change out the drain back and/or the oil pump? Could it be my bearings that wore down a little?

I need the vacuum selector. The actuator is in good condition and seems to work fine when I hook it up to an external vacuum source. I just don't want to purchase the entire climate control section when's it's only the little vacuum selector on the back of it that I need. I'm starting to think that's there's no part number for the vacuum selector and that they would only have the part number for the entire assembly. Hopefully picknpull will have a couple 2nd gens I can look at for it.

Would anyone happen to know the part number for the vent vacuum selector that is for the HVAC system? I cannot find one anywhere online. Mine has a leak in it and will not enable recirculation mode. Thank you.

Well guys I finally reached my goal of over 20 mpg! I went on a drive from southern Washington to Northern and back which netted me 20.33 mpg @ 65 mph. I also did a mix of city driving as well. This is with a corrected speedometer and I actually lose ~1 mile over a 550 mile course. I believe this increase has come mainly from the weather heating up and from possibly using S15 D-2 diesel as opposed to B20. I had the timing set on the quad @ 18* at 65mph. Rpms are around 1780 with 3.54 rear and 295/70R17 tires. I also swapped the steel rims out with 3rd gen alloys which reduced some of the rotating mass. Soon I will be switching to 245/70R17 tires and I hope to see another increase in mpg!

Thank you @Me78569 So if I do flash it just to compare them to see the differences, it won't do any harm to the VP if I go past level 0 right?

If the Quadzilla Adrenaline V2 software takes complete control of the vp44, what would happen if I flashed the ecm with my superchips flashpaq programmer and put the quad above level 0? Would anything happen or would the quad still keep it's custom timing and/or fueling? I'm just curious as to what would happen and want to see the difference in timing. It would be neat to have the programmer on level 0 and the quad on anything above that.

I have gone down in tire size from 35 inch tires to now a 265/70R17 on third gen steelie rims. Even though my final ratio is closer now it seems like I still can't break over 19mpg tank average. My average overall with 35 inch tires was around 18-18.5 and now it seems like my average has gone up just a little to 18.7-18.9. I've been playing around with the timing still on the quad but no matter what timing I'm at it seems like it really doesn't make a difference. I'm at 1870 rpms @ 65mph and that's the speed I drive at most of the time. The only thing I can think of is my rotating mass. The 35's were on 17 inch alluminum rims and these other tires are on the steel ones. I think overall I've only shaved off about 20-30 lbs of rotating mass. Only other thing I can think of is going with the 3rd gen alluminum rims if I can get a good price on them but I still feel like I should be somewhere in the mid 19mpg range with my final ratio. What could I potentially gain with going to a 245/70R17 tire? Any thoughts?

I just talked with the girlfriend and I am able to leave my current wheels and tires at her house. I got a pair of 3rd gen 17" wheels with 265/70R17 Hankook tires. One thing I didn't realize though is that they are the steel ones and not the alluminum I got them for $90 though so I thought that was a pretty good deal. 40% tread left too. Hopefully I can get better mpgs with these since my final ration will be a little closer to what it's supposed to be. It looks like the weight overall though is going to be only a couple pounds lighter per wheel/tire than what I have on it right now. I just hope that my fuel economy goes up a bit.

Do you have any pictures of those tires on your truck? I just don't want the 285/65R17 or 285/70R17 to look funny on my truck since the rims are a slight negative offset. I'm just thinking if I should sway towards the 65 since tire blow outs don't really happen that often and I still have my spare that I might be able to use for an emergency. Even though the spare is small, I still should be able to use it in a dire emergency without damage to the diff right? 3.54. yea I think the 285/70R17 would look decent, I just don't know how a 285/65R17 would look like on a slightly negative offset rim. I just don't want it looking bad either lol.

Well I thought I could get 285/65R17 but the tire shop had a good point and said that if I had a blow out or something happened with the tire that it would be difficult to get that tire anywhere since it is uncommon. Should I still get that tire or just make a compromise and go with a 285/70R17? I'm looking to get a small boost in fuel economy.

I've looked into regearing before but it just seems pricey to do on both diffs right now. I'd have to get the Dana 80 ring and pinion since mines the 80/70 hybrid. It's looking like I'm gonna have to go with a 285/65r17 tire. That's the smallest one that will fit my rim (17x10). I have three options to choose from; Mickey Thompson Deegan 38, Cooper Discoverer AT3, or Yokohama Geolander G015. These are all all-terrain tires but the Yokohama ones have the least amount of tread according to the specs. Kind of leaning towards the Mickey Thompson's but not sure. Any opinions?

That's what I'm gonna get here soon once my tires are worn out. Well if it can fit on the rim. If not, I gotta go with 33's. It would be pretty nice to get 19.5 at those higher speeds. Does it go up for you if you drive a bit slower?