jamesecox

After closer inspection the issue has been figured out but not resolved. The transmission that I got was out of a 2000 and my truck is a 99 so the transducer and temp sensor is different. I have all brand new sensors that I had just put in my old transmission. my question now is can I just change out the harness and sensor with my old ones, meaning are they the same size etc. Going to try it this afternoon and hope for the best. Also update on the trans I pulled from my truck, I sent it in to be rebuilt and the shop found that the seal for the round 8 pin connector was bad and was allowing transmission fluid to get in and and jack up the signal and that was the entire reason for my transmission issues. well I guess new alternator and wiring mods and all that were probably a good idea anyway.

Ok so update, ended up doing a trans swap again, first issue is the truck will only start in neutral not.in park however the new one shifts perfect and works good, for about 40 miles then the overdrive off and trans temp kicked on. Dip stick shows full and it seems to work fine. Any suggestions?

So with that being said what is the harm in leaving the alternator wire running to the power distributon box where it is fused? I added a fuse inline just in case I'm just working on the theory behind it is all. Truck downshifts just fine, transmission was built but for towing not a race application or anything my truck is only about 100hp over stock. So nothing crazy

So the WT wiring mod is done, I just wanted to know if the alternator cable should be fused since it was from the factory? Also no luck on that fixing the trans so this weekend the trans is coming out and going bye bye for a new one. Truck downshifts just fine, transmission was built but for towing not a race application or anything my truck is only about 100hp over stock. So nothing crazy.

My test sheet shows 59psi at the accumulator at idle and within range in rev- od. The guy who rebuilt it does the same job for ATS so I trust him plus he has built a ton of other trans for me over the years

yes I changed out the output sensor on the trans as well. the trans has all new sensors everywhere they are found. I am going to do the grounding mod and see if that fixes it if not then maybe its time to seriously look at the manual swap.

I have the stuff to do that this weekend I just havnt had time hopefully that fixes it I will be sure to let everyone know.

As far as the alternator goes I just replaced it and that seemed to fix the wait to start light and a few other small issues as far is the transmission goes it will not shift from 1st to 2nd unless I get it up to about 30 miles an hour and Let off of the gas pedal but from 2nd through over drive it shifts just fine I'm starting to believe the valve body maybe badd I don't know from this point because everything else checks out fine

Ok so update, I replaced and tested the alternator and did the regrounding project and I am still having the trans shift issue from 1st to 2nd i know it's not the transmission as i had that bench tested as well at a local shop. Plus I'm still getting the apps check engine code, I'm leaning towards a new computer at this point I'm kind of at a loss and tired of throwing money at this thing. Anyone have any ideas!!!

I will do that as I go thru and do the ground rewire part.

I found it never noticed that before crazy

It was the Timbo APPS sold on here from TMB mechanical off of e bay I wasnt aware they were sold on here or I would have gone here first. Voltage on the sensor as far as what the instructions say to do is good so i dont think the sensor is my problem but i will go through the checks and make sure. Reading thru that apps article I do not see an ecm kr anything similar behind my fuel filter on the drivers side, the only ecm I see is on the passenger side firewall. Anyone have a picture of what I'm looking for because I see nothing there with any wires going to it the only thing back there is my lift pump.

Unfortunately I just double checked and I have the Bosch alternator so no cheap way out here. I think I will opt for the cheaper of the nationsalternator ones and give it a try. I will update when it comes in and I get it installed. Thank you all for the help I'm a lifer on this forum now. Ok so I was finally able to pull codes and here they are So with that and the bbn other mirai bbn of problems I'm leaning 110% towards starting with the alternator as the apps is brand new so I think I could have saved myself some time and money starting with the alternator. Yaaaa progress

Sad or not at this point even a new alternator is cheaper than a new transmission and a new ecm/pcm which was the route I had started leaning towards.

So step 1 today was checking the diode on the alternator. I'm going to assume it's bad as tr he lowest reading I got was 0.074 and at times it jumped to as high as 1.46 so I will be buying a diode and replacing it. I will also be doing the alternate grounding method from the previous post. Maybe this will fix the "surging" alternator symptoms it seems to have had since I got it and I just always assumed it was the heater grid drawing power.

Sorry folks I was out of service this weekend but my truck did another reliable dodge thing and the wait to start light started coming on right away again. I have tomorrow off so I'm going to go through the list of fixes suggested and see if anything works this issue fixing itself afyer bouncing around in the mountains leads me to believe it's a ground or wiring issue of some kind. I will let everyone know if I figure it out. Thank you all for the help.

@Mopar1973Man I didnt list trouble codes because every time I shut the truck off they clear so no one has been able to pull them and the key trick doesn't work on my year. Thank you for all of the advice on that I will go through it and give it a shot anything's better than the alternatives of spending a ton of money

How do you rebuild an ecm or is this just a replace scenario?

Ok so here I go, I have a 99 ram 2500 4x4 auto trans 24v 280k miles. I am having a gremlin and here are the symptoms and the story. It started with my transmission not shifting out of 1st no matter how few or many rpms you threw at it unless you let off the petal and kicked it down that way, so I replaced Gov pressure solenoid, transducer, and for good measure the o/d and lockup solenoids as well also tightened the bands to spec and put new fluid in. Did not fix the issue, then the next day driving to work my speedometer says I'm not working Monday and drops to 0, so i replace both the speed sensor in the transmission tail housing and the one in the rear axle. Fixes the speedo issue but not the shifting issue. Then i get a check engine code for my apps, i put the multimeter on it and it checked out fine but i replaced it anyway with the one sold on the store here code went away, UNTILL the truck is driven. Once I get up to about 1600-1800 rpm (rpm is the only factor I have found in when it goes off) the check engine light comes on, but here is the kicker when you shut the truck down it clears the check engine code from existence. ****an update on this as well, yesterday while driving home doing about 55mph the truck acted like it shifted from o/d into 2nd it was enough to pull me forward in my seat some from the force of the downshift. I also have a symptom of wait to start light not coming on right away it comes on about 45 seconds after you put the key in the on position and the truck will not fire unless you wait for it to go out, I do hear my lift pump kick on when the wait to start light comes on but not before. This all kinda leads me to believe it's not a multitude of problems like I have been looking at it but some form of electrical or grounding gremlin (i know I know those are so rare) or even a bad ecm. This is my daily driver so I need to get it back to a reliable state and help is greatly appreciated.