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Touch of either and she fired right up. Thanks for all the help guys. 8 hour trip home this weekend with the camper behind me. Down to the wire! video0000001.mp4

Pump is in! Dark now. Bleeding and starting tomorrow

Tappet cover is leaking. Ordered a new gasket! Also, just decided to put my mouth on the injector lines and blow through them. They are hard to blow through. Is that normal? They all seemed the same. I even blew them out with some air, and all seemed the same with no obstructions. Normal ?

Wow guys, look what I just found out about my VP44 as I started the tear down process.

Haha no problem guys! I was really confused for a second. The pump should be here by Sat Morning at the latest. Starting tear down today. Also running 1/2" lines and replacing all banjo bolts with these:

I don't follow. I'm replacing the VP44, not the injectors.

So snug these guys down first, before the 19mm hold down on the injector? Might I ask why?

Gotcha! Thank you! I will keep you all posted. The used REMAN vp44 ships out on Wednesday. I'll have everything torn down and ready to go. I've done and IP on an old 7.3 international, and from the videos I've seen online the VP44 looks like an easier swap! Any particular "how to" video does anyone like best?

Thank you for that detailed post Michael. The truck would not start back up hot, until it cooled down for about 3 weeks. Then i walked out one day and simply would not start at all. Bluechip diesel said that not starting back up when hot is indicative of mechanical pump wear, not an electronic issue. The truck has thrown no codes except for that coolant temp sensor, which was replaced and the truck ran fine afterwards. The bluechip no start tests state at the end: " IF YOU HAVE FUEL, POWER AND GROUND, PROVEN BY THE ABOVE TESTS AND STILL HAVE NO START AFTER TEST 3, YOU ABSOLUTELY POSITIVELY NEED AN INJECTION PUMP!" My truck does have fuel, power, and ground and it will not start. Could it be anything other than the VP44 being it started one day, and not the next ?

Hey guys I have a line on a RE MANUFACTURED VP44 with roughly 20,000 miles on it from a wrecked truck for 500 bucks. Reputable source, friend of the family. Any issues with putting a 1999 vp44 on a 2001 ?

Called Bluechip diesel, and then tried the hotwire test. I could hear something in the pump click on when connecting the hot wire to pin seven. Ground was to pin 6. So i feel I had a good connection. Still no start. . Sounds like its the VP44 which is with in reason I think. 140k on the truck and she was from Florida which has high temperatures in summer and I bought the truck from an older gentleman who use it to tow a camper. It was only putting out 8 PSI at idle and 5 psi going down the road, without a camper behind the truck before I put a FASS in back in may of this year. So its tough to say what really has occurred. She is still shooting out fuel at the injectors with good pressure it seems though. I've read something on CAN bus bypass in the VP44... Any last ideas on that?

Running a good bit of fleetgaurd cleaner, which is a dark amber color, and half a bottle of PM clear diesel with only 10 gallons of diesel in the tank. I don't understand the orientation of the pins on how to "how-wire" the back of the VP44 Anyone have pics of this or a second explanation? Thanks for all the help guys.

I like Lady Gaga music! Yeah when I crank it jumps up to 15-16 and is just constant. I hooked up a clear fuel line, as suggested by this post https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests Definitely no air bubbles before the IP I did no start test #2 Power at pin 7, and no power at pin 5 as it should be. Next test is No start #3 I don't understand where to jump start it to exactly... Pin 7's orientation I don't follow from the article. And the ground goes where? Pin 6 ? I have a power wire made up as suggested in the article with a 10 amp inline fuse.

Yeah I got 10 gallons of diesel the last trip home, drove about 8 miles and shut it off. Hasn't started since. So yesterday I drained the tank and put 10 gallons fresh in with the PS additive just in case. Still wouldn't start. Is this a possible ECM issue? With it not starting up when hot, and now just not starting at all ? It is getting fuel to the injectors.

I looked over all the fuel lines and tightened the all the banjo bolts and clamps. Unfortunately I don't have access to an air-compressor where I am at, but I'm looking for one. I bled injectors 1,3 and 4 and fuel shoots out with good pressure pressure on each line. However noticed what I thought was some moisture in the fuel as I watched it ran down the block. I then drained the fuel tank today, and put 10 gallons of fresh diesel in with Clear Diesel Fuel and tank cleaner to remove any possible water. I then bled injector lines 1,3, + 4 again with no better results. I also tried just a touch of ether today twice, and she wanted to start right up, but would not. She is definitely getting fuel to the injectors. Are there any electronic shut of solenoids I could check? Any other sensors that might be keeping it from starting up, with out throwing a code that they are bad? Thank you for all the help guys, much appreciation.

Thank you for all the replies and help. Much appreciation. Yes I still have the stock lines and banjo bolts. Is there a way to lower the PSI while cranking at start up so its not at 16 psi while cranking? Seems odd this wasn't an issue for months and now all of a sudden it is. Also It has never stalled on me in the 2 years I've owned it. It stalled after driving 200 feet the last time it ran. Then started right back up. Could that be related to whatever is going on?

I do not have that set up. I simply bought this pump to replace the retrofitted in the tank pump that was putting out 8 PSI at idle and 5 PSI going down the road. I completely removed the one from the tank, put a draw straw in there with screen. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fsy-rpdrp

Yes I have a FASS pump. I bought a kit to replace all the banjo bolts. Will take care of that once running. Thank you for that. I changed the fuel filter about 3 week ago when this first started. I am unaware of an adjustable pressure regular... Would this be on the FASS ? I don't know what the old school ball and spring is. Should it start without the lift pump running at all? At 0 PSI ? I pulled the fuse and tried this. No luck.

Thank you for the fast response. When I first turn the key on I get that 2 - 3 second burst from the lift pump. I assume this is from the ECM telling it to do that correct? Power to the lift pump is going through this relay ( picture attached ) One hot line to the battery, and another coming from the original 2 pronged plug on the side of the block for the original lift pump that was there.

Fuel pressure at idle is 18 PSI. WOT while taking off from a stop sign I can get it down to 10 PSI. Usually about 15 psi at highway speeds. While cranking just now its at 16 PSI while attempting to start up. WOT while idling....If i remember correctly I believe it was 15 ish. I tested this after putting in the FASS. That was back in May. No I have not tried hot-wiring the VP44... I've never heard of that. I'm used to a 12valve. This is the first 24v truck I've owned.

Clanclos Did the ECM work for you? I'm in the same boat.

Hi Guys, I was directed here from BigFish over on the cumminsforum.com My 01 won't start at all. For the past few weeks it was not starting back up once HOT. I pulled the fuse to the lift pump to see if it would then start when hot, to eliminate the possibility of a diaphragm issues in the vp44. It would not start. It did start the next morning and threw the code P0118, coolant temperature sensor. I replaced that sensor, and everything seemed fine. IT would start back up when hot after replacing that sensor. Then a week later at the diesel station, it did it again. Would not start back up when hot. I waited 20 minutes, and she fired right up. I drove her home. The next morning she fired right up, drove 200 feet and stalled dead. Then started right back up. I checked for codes again, and only P0118 was there, so I cleared all codes and now she won't start at all. Yes she cranks at fuel speed. Yes the WTS light does come on, and I can hear the grid heater click off when the light goes out. I've cleaned all battery connections, replaced one battery that was weak, checked all grounds I could find, cleaned the connections in the PDC. I had the alternator tested and all the diodes and the rectifier is fine, so I know that didn't knock out the ECM. The truck is out of Florida and very clean. I even bled injectors 1 & 3 in case there was in there somehow and fuel came out immediately. Of course I changed the fuel filter right after this first started a month ago. I put a FASS lift pump on about 800 miles ago back in July as she had the retrofitted pump in the tank. I also bought a new MAP sensor and put that in. No avail. Not sure where to go or what to eliminate next. Any help would greatly appreciated. I'm a campgrounds in Rhinebeck NY for the summer with my camper If anyone knows of any diesel Guru's around here. Hoping to leave in a few weeks and willing to pay for expert help.