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Ryan Daugherty

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    Florence Oregon

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  1. Ryan Daugherty

    Ryan Daugherty

  2. I'm going to copy and paste what 8 did to fix it. I was so excited I didn't think to take pictures sorry. First I did this about a year ago- "I took the module apart and removed the ball; did not solve the problem, belts still would lock up while driving. So, I connected/soldered a jumper wire between pin 4 (dark blue wire) and pins 7 & 8 (orange/black & orange/red wires) inside the module so the seat belts are powered anytime the ignition switch is either on or in the accessory position. (Also you can cut wires and use butt connectors) This now allows the belts to pull out with the switch on but if you pull one quickly, it will lock up due to the built in inertia function so hopefully the belts would work in an accident situation as long as the seats are not reclined. Just today after some online research I found and did this- I tried jumping the blue wire (12 volt supply only when ignition or accessory positions are selected) to the two solenoid leads, as suggested elsewhere, but that didn't solve the battery drain problem, as the pink wire (continuous 12 volt supply) was still hooked up, providing an uninterrupted power supply to the solenoids, and that was the whole problem. What I did do is cut the pink wire right near the wire harness connector, thus interrupting the continuous power supply to the module, but I also soldered a short wire between pin 3 (pink wire) and pin 4 (blue wire)--this was done on the back of the module's circuit board. Now, there is power coming into the module only when the key is turned to the ignition or the accessory positions. The seat belts won't release or retract unless the key is in the ignition or accessory position, but that seems a small price to pay. The pre-tensioning function of the module remains intact, as there is power to the module when you are driving. This seemed to have fix my problem. If you dont here from again its fixed. Woohoo
  3. So now we got this narrowed down to the (seat belt control module), we need to figure out how to fix this module. I've looked online to try and order one but everybody seems to be out. I read in mopar1973man's post that this module cannot be repaired or tampered with? What are people doing to fix this problem?
  4. Found 10a seatbelt fuse #13 pulled fixed all my problem. So its somewhere in the seatbelt system. Mopar1973man hooked up a seatbelt diagnostic attachment I'm going to read over that and do some testing on the seatbelt system. Okay so pulled 50amp fuse to ignition run/acc and we still have 11 volts of power to the I just tried disconnecting the little box under the center counsel and put everything back to normal, batteries hooked up all fuses back in. When I did that it seems that everything went back to normal. My radio or wipers dont come on anymore until I plug that box back in. Testing radio and wipers with key off. Sorry for jumping the gun, I'm just getting excited!
  5. Hooked everything back up normal, batteries hooked up. Pulled 50 amp ignition run/acc out and still have power to radio and wipers. Theres another ignition fuse in my box it's a 30amp ignition run fuse?
  6. Yes this assumption is correct on how I'm testing wires. Okay tried this- "By simultaneously connecting a test light at the same connections as your multi-meter, you can place a small electrical load on the circuit, thus eliminating any stray voltage." Got These Results- black/white wire voltage 10.84 light comes on. lght/blue wire voltage .03 light does not come on.
  7. "If the test lamp does not light and the voltage drops to zero, then the ignition switch is not likely the problem. If the test lamp does light and the voltage remains the same or near the same, then the ignition could be the problem" What wires and how exactly are we testing here? Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this.
  8. Sounds like we have the same fuse loacation John. All lights are off for sure. Thanks for the write up. If the ignition switch is supposed to cut off power to black with white stripe wire and the light blue wire, doesnt that seem like it would be the ignition not turning systems off properly? I feel like that's probably what it is dont you?
  9. Thanks IBMobile for your help it's probably the ignition like you said. If theres power to those wires that are not supposed to have any, then it would make sense to me that it's the ignition. Beautiful write Tractorman thank you and I'm on it. So here is what I found and how I found. Please correct me if this will not work . I followed steps of disconnecting both battery nagatives and hooked up test light,which of course test light came on bright. Started pulling fuses, first fuse I pulled was #12 IOD fuse 10a. Found that fuse #12 made light go very dim. Pulled all other fuses and no change in light. Wich tells me it's in that pwr lck circuit, am I correct? Also fuse number 13 PWR LOCK made a humming noise when plugged in, with IOD fuse in. Noise went away when PWR LOCK fuse was pulled out and when IOD fuse was pulled out.
  10. Yes sir key was off when tested those wires. Does that mean bad ignition switch or?
  11. Sorry I took so long to get to it, but here it is. I would not be able to figure this out with out you guys thank you very much for all the past and present help. These tested wires are under the plastic cover on the steering column. If you have any suggestions on what the heck is draining my battery please chime in! -Thicker 6 wire plug 1. Red 12v 2. Black w/white stripe 11v 3. Black w/orange stripe 0v 4. Pink w/black stripe 12v 5. Blue 0v 6. Yellow 0v -Smaller 4 wire plug 1. Tan maybe light pink 0v 2. Light blue 10.71v 3. Pink 11.98v 4. Yellow w/red stripe 0v I'm trying to load some pictures on here for you but not having any luck?
  12. You've been lucky from what I read mopar1973man, sounds like proper maintenance is key. The kit NIsaacs mentioned is a dana/spicer kit and I think I'm going to order it. Anything I should be aware of before I order? I really just want to make sure it fits. Im sure they come with instructions for proper install but if not, lol you all will be the first to hear about it. Thanks
  13. What up you guys! My rear end has been screaming at me ever since Ive owned my truck. I just ordered a master rebuild kit for my 99 auto 47RE with the dana/spicer 70. I'm trying to figure out what carrier clutches to order? the Kit did not come with the carrier clutches and I want to replace them. Reliability is the number one most important thing for me, but posi would be cool. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! If there has already been a write up on this Im sorry i could not find it. Thanks in advance
  14. Hope you all are a little fatter and a little happier after the holidays! I some how looked over IBMobile's post didn't even see it, not sure how i missed it but i did. Alright I'm going to attempt to test the ignition switch this weekend. Have a few questions do I need to take off the steering wheel cover to access the wires i need to test? I'm a bit confused on what wires I'm testing where are they located? Shouldn't all the wires going to the ignition have no power with the key off? Also I noticed the the wiring diagram Mopar1973man hooked up (Thank you my man) has a "clutch pedal position switch" which means its for a manual truck, mines an auto is it the same? thanks
  15. ALRIGHT SO HERES WHAT I FOUND THESE SYSTEMS ARE DRAWING POWER, 1. Pwr lock fuse #13, 10amp, 11.6v draw 2. Seat belt fuse #16, 10amp, 11.4v draw 3. Radio fuse #8, 10amp, 3.2v draw 4. Wiper fuse #6, 25amp, 11.2v draw 5. Cluster B not cluster A fuse #14, 10amp, 10.4v draw Tested all other fuses in cab no draw on any. I did not test the fuses with the little safety clips on them or the fuses under the hood. If any ideas please let me know I'm willing and ready to chase this down until we nip it in the rear. Thanks for all the help so far. Me78569 mentioned the ignition switch being bad does anybody know how to test this?
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