Bgtransport624

ok when I flashed with the 3000 tune truck was already warm so all was great but once the truckcooled down the 3000 tune also has high idle witch stalls the truck even though the xzt tune features guide says 3000 tune does not have the high idle or engine protection it def does is there a 3000 tune without high idle or maybe someone local to me with a smarty that would be willing to disable my factory high idle ps manual high idle in off position works fine when engine is warm

ok i was kind of feeling the same way from what iwas reading

update tunes work great without the high idle tune thanks for the help guys 3000 tune is great at low end with surprisingly low smoke and last what exactly is the beta1 tune is that what is referred to as the comp tune or 4000 tune are these the same tune postings seem to be vague on this or i just haven't found the right thread yet

i wasn't aware of oem high idle do u know if you can disable oem high idle or how i idled about 900 rpm before??

thanks for all the help guys just reflashed the high idle kicked on so i assume it worked so ill let it warm up and see what she does i run this truck as a hotshot dragging about 16000lbs through the mountains any suggestions on tunes i just flashed it with the 2008 tune ok it will high idle for about 30-60 secs then dies will start back up but high idle then stall again????????? ok any tune with high idle dies shortly after high idle starts put 2001 on it its ideling so far so warm up attempt 2 keep fingers crossed

i have a xzillerator with three position switch not v2

i have a xzt xzillerator tuner trying to re flash but win 10 wont recognize the tuner does anyone know a work around for this without sending it back to quadzilla i dont have access to a pc with xp

Thanks for all the input We do have emissions testing where I'm at So I think I'll start at 9500 and see what happens

I'm pretty sure it would move a good amount produce ???

Thanks for the reply 7 is about what I was thinking as well

I'm going to sell my truck I just want to get opinions on what it's worth don't want to sell I love it but I need down payment for bigger truck I use it as a hot shot not a rich boy toy so it's mildly tuned for towing and mpg all parts are good parts no value craft or Chinese parts Delco Moog etc or better 2000 ram 3500 dually quad cab 550k mostly hey 2x4 gooseneck hitch remote air bags truck is not perfect but in my opinion it is pretty clean one spot on door and some scratches Now the list In the past year.......... Auto to nv5600 swap everything in tranny new except input and output shaft Dual stage clutch less than 10 k on it New/fully rebuilt all new parts head stage 1 from dj machine in Cambridge oh titanium exhaust seats Quad xzt 1000 tune Cummins head gasket Arp head studs New vp44 / bd diesel +50 injectors Fass drp lift pump PS pump Steering gear Pitman Idler Lower Moog ball joins Master cylinder Good tires 75 percent or so There is probably more that I'm forgetting The only off thing is I run fuel pump on a toggle due to a previous ground issue kept it on switch cause filter changes are great with the switch cause I change it with every oil change Rotella religiously at4k Needs oil pan gasket but isn't very bad So what do you guys think a fair realistic price for both parties because I'd like to sell quick and realize I won't get what I have in it butt I also don't want to bendover to far either lol

I am definitely going to be doing this ground mod

So just to clarify a little bit my factory acorn lift pump locking up probably killed my ECM the voltage Spike could kill my PCMbut if the voltage hurt my PCM it would fry the regulator that's inside of it which would give me no volts on my gauge (correct?) So I'm guessing that my PCM should be okay and this is also the reason the people are putting a 140amp fusible link on the alternator charging wire while doing the ground mod?

I am looking at this ground mod right now seems to be pretty easy and straightforward do you think my voltage Spike could have trashed my ECM I was having problems well before that when I lost power to my fuel pumps

No I do not have gauges yet The fuel pump is on a toggle switch that helped with my hot start ever so slightly the pump I am running is the fast DRP series And now that you mention it my volt gauge did Spike all the way to the top for abt 30 sec or so then dropped to norm and has been fine ever since but that was after I got it back together so I just figured it was a flukesince I'd had a lot of stuff unhooked while doing the head will the ground mod help with that

Thanks for the reply sorry about the late response apparently I'm not getting notifications for this post so I will answer you all at once I spoke with a guy at blue Chip diesel said that the ECM being for the auto should not make a difference she will just throw me some BS tranny codes which it does I have no engine codes all trans codes with a believe a 1693 companion code I did have another symptom today I was at a drive-through and they could not hear me through the speaker so I shut the truck down took probably 10 to 15 cranks before it hit when it did hit I got a pretty good puff of white smoke that is the only time it is done it do you think it is possible that I have a injector hanging open loading up a cylindercausing a Miss from too much fuel rather than not enough (is flooding even possible on a diesel?) I do not have any hazing while driving no excessive smoke white or black and to answer your question + 50 injectors are daps and they are brand new along with rebuilt vp44 new head gasket factory Cummins head casting reworked by d&j machine new valve guides springs seals and titanium exhaust seats the works all have less than 75 miles on them If it is a bad brand new injector is there an easy way to pinpoint which one it is I have an appointment to take it in on Monday but I would rather save my hundred dollars if I can Thanks for the help guys I am new to diesel I know my way around a gasoline engine but I feel partially retarded working on this diesel? I did check my exhaust manifold where it hooks to the head at each cylinder with a laser thermometer as you can expect the readings were all over the place first 5 cylinder seem to be within about 10 to 15 degrees of each other number 6 was about 40 low so I'm going to guess that's my problem child but is this reliable? This is the description for the injectors and pump I just installed if it helps Set of 6 Diesel Auto Power 50HP Aftermarket Performance Injectors for Dodge 24 valve Cummins. 7 hole (0.008 inch holes) VCO style. Compatible for years 1998.5-2002. Installation kit included: (Injector connecting tube removal tool/nut, copper sealing washers, and o-rings for connector tube). new copper washers

I'll start at the top auto to nv5600 swap still has auto ECM a few months ago I did fuel filter change went to prime filter realized I had no power to lift pump I needed a truck in a hurry as I use this truck for hotshotting so I hot-wired my lift pump straight to fuse block comes on with the key the grid heater has also been intermittent when it does come on it seems to cycle way faster than it usually does Next day I drove about 80 miles to pick up a load truck was sluggish the entire way got there and then truck did not want to start unhook lift pump fired right up so from what I could tell I had a bad vp44 I also had a weeping head gasket by the time Ipulled it into the garage it was shaking and sputtering very bad I tore it down head was cracked so I picked up a completely remanufactured factory Cummins head from d&j machine Presed in exhaust valve seats brand new dap 50 horsepower injectors remanned vp44 new power steering pump new gearbox set intake valves at .010 exhaust valves at.020 when I was done truck started relatively easy it seems to have a Miss at idle but doesn't seem bad enough to call it a dead cylinder when I drive it down the road it seems to smooth out and run fine but I do feel like it's lacking a littlethe only codes it's throwing are Auto tranny codes because I still have the automatic ECM in it with an nv 5600 the miss that it has is almost unnoticeable at an idle you can just feel it but when you let the clutch out it gets worse and gets shaky along with the miss my intake sounds only to be described is like a helicopter thumping Please help I feel like I'm having a ECM issue because both heater grid and lp get there feed from the ECM ¿?????¿?? I think ¿?????¿?? So I'm thinking vp could be getting bad info causing the miss And is there any way to have a ECM tested other than the dealer sorry for dumb questions I'm new to the diesel engine any help is appreciated