busymountain

We used a 93 and added a p-pump about a year ago and put it back into my 94. The cam gear is what actually broke all the way around the shaft. We are suspecting the cast iron gear from the 93 not being able to handle the P-pump from the 94. The 94 had the steel camgear. We did not notice it when changing things over. We have a 94 camshaft from the original engine that is larger the 93 by quite a bit. Anybody have any experience with problems using 93 gear with the 94 pump?

We lost the block and head out of a 94 about a year ago and found a 93 to replace it. Everything looked pretty good so we installed the P-pump plate etc.. and have been running since. The other day I lost my cam gear, pushrods and lifters. The only thing we come up with is the cast iron gear on 93 is not the steel gear on the 94. How does that sound?Everthing is in the machine shop now and we noticed the 93 camshaft is smaller than the 94. Is this upgrade necessary for the power of the p-pump? Is there anything else we need to know mixing these 2 slightly different engines?

No modifcations only after market air and a big plate - - - Updated - - - Can you give me a more specific idea on hydrolocking?? Something has physically broken the cam gear and not the KDP....How about the rear timing cover with too much flex........? How much black smoke will it take to give this a hydrolocking problem? We are running a trailer at around 70 mph climbing a hill and just cresting ... not a along pull really, basically just going down the freeway. What are symptoms of hydrolocking? Does the problem with hydrolocking usually come from the pump itself? We are wondering about any distortions from the weight being held by the timing plate,, seems like alot of weight on the plate. Is there something better for a plate or are we up the wrong creek. The Gear on the cam is completley broke at the spokes. Kdp in tact has not moved. We do have much smoke at all out of this truck. And we believe our connecting rods are fine. So are ruling out what we know about hydrolock. Please respond.....

Thanks for the info - I just assumed it had one

This thing has over 300 k on it and still running good with stock everything. I am thinking of removing the cat converter for better flow. I am a little worried about noise and or other problems - has anyone had experience with this?I bought this truck with alot of miles on it - I had previously had one just like which seemed to have more power and be less congested... my imagination? I am thinking those kind of miles are going to amount to accumulation of stuff plugging up the cat- Your input please........

We have not got the front off yet but are thinking the cam is off time somehow and that bent the pushrods - anybody got any experience with that one.

thanks alot - I will try it!

We are thinking it is cam or cam gear that messed up the rods. Any experience here would be good.Can not adjusting the valves cause this kind of problem? What would cause the cam or cam gear to break to such a degree - KDP??

We are getting close on what the problem is not - anyway we will have to replace the bent push rods on #6 in a 94 and really dont want to pull the motor forward to do it- Your input would be great. Thinking about drilling holes above so they have room to come out but that opens up new potential problems. Anybody have good experience with this one?

I have just got off the phone with a guy from Tork Teknology who is explaining my installation problems with my new raptor 150 pump. Says he has had alot of comments latley about raptor pumps and so he has done his research. He suggests going to his site and and you can get a newletter updates about all kinds of stuff. His name is Rob and his number is 616-298-9103. Or http://www.torkteknology.com/ He would like to write a tech article about installing the raptor and I would like to encourage him. He spoke with me about things like the stock fuel filter handling only 53 gph while the raptor pushes 150>> Also talked about the overflow valve sending most of the fuel back to the tank - seems to know of the fixes for these issues.

Which 2 cycle do you like and where do you get it?

Yes the stock pump is disconnected - have not taken it off until I get a plate to cover the hole. I will go into the raptor right away. It just seems like a good place to go since it seems like a low fuel issue that coincides with a pump installation. Thanks I take it you dont like the turbo stuff as a problem?

So if the wastegate is stuck open it will have trouble making boost. Does that mean the engine will have trouble burning fuel, not getting the egts hot? The truck acts like it has a low power problem could this be because the wastegate is open? Can the wastegate get stuck open intermitently? We also installed a raptor pump at the time we first had problems with the new fuel plate. Do my symptoms coincide with low supply fuel? - I am wondering if the pump is working intermitently or if there is some debris in the inlet port screen.

Today I was in the shop all day with the truck - first we tried the fuel plate foot which was actually too hi not to low. I am not sure why someone would adjust it that way. We adjusted it back down drove it, ran great then back to its old ways with low power. Then we tried a suggestion of tying up the arm on the fuel shut off. It did not seem to work either. I even removed the K&N filter figuring maybe it was not enough air to make good burn. Not the case. We also installed a boost gage today. Its is making only around 10psi when not running good and closer to 15-20 when the fuel plate decides to kick in. The truck runs well but its not wanting to rap out over about 2200rpm, low egts. Then it get a mind to open up and I have no limit on rpm and power, egts are up. I am looking for an explaination of what the waste gate actuator on the turbo does and what are the symptom if not working properly? That was the next thing the shop wanted to check but we did not have time. The fuel injection shop that did the initial fuel plate install still likes the bad plunger in the pump idea.

No I have not got a gage yet but it sounds like it may be the way to go especially when I pull a trailer. Yes we are talking about the big P7100 12 valve. The block and head are from a 93 but the rest is 94. You mentioned the adjustment procedure for adjusting so the foot on the governor arm will not hang up on the fuel plate. Do you have a direction for me on that? I will snoop around on the forum but if you have directions and maybe pics that would be great.