busymountain

We used a 93 and added a p-pump about a year ago and put it back into my 94. The cam gear is what actually broke all the way around the shaft. We are suspecting the cast iron gear from the 93 not being able to handle the P-pump from the 94. The 94 had the steel camgear. We did not notice it when changing things over. We have a 94 camshaft from the original engine that is larger the 93 by quite a bit. Anybody have any experience with problems using 93 gear with the 94 pump?

We lost the block and head out of a 94 about a year ago and found a 93 to replace it. Everything looked pretty good so we installed the P-pump plate etc.. and have been running since. The other day I lost my cam gear, pushrods and lifters. The only thing we come up with is the cast iron gear on 93 is not the steel gear on the 94. How does that sound?Everthing is in the machine shop now and we noticed the 93 camshaft is smaller than the 94. Is this upgrade necessary for the power of the p-pump? Is there anything else we need to know mixing these 2 slightly different engines?

No modifcations only after market air and a big plate - - - Updated - - - Can you give me a more specific idea on hydrolocking?? Something has physically broken the cam gear and not the KDP....How about the rear timing cover with too much flex........? How much black smoke will it take to give this a hydrolocking problem? We are running a trailer at around 70 mph climbing a hill and just cresting ... not a along pull really, basically just going down the freeway. What are symptoms of hydrolocking? Does the problem with hydrolocking usually come from the pump itself? We are wondering about any distortions from the weight being held by the timing plate,, seems like alot of weight on the plate. Is there something better for a plate or are we up the wrong creek. The Gear on the cam is completley broke at the spokes. Kdp in tact has not moved. We do have much smoke at all out of this truck. And we believe our connecting rods are fine. So are ruling out what we know about hydrolock. Please respond.....

Thanks for the info - I just assumed it had one

This thing has over 300 k on it and still running good with stock everything. I am thinking of removing the cat converter for better flow. I am a little worried about noise and or other problems - has anyone had experience with this?I bought this truck with alot of miles on it - I had previously had one just like which seemed to have more power and be less congested... my imagination? I am thinking those kind of miles are going to amount to accumulation of stuff plugging up the cat- Your input please........

We have not got the front off yet but are thinking the cam is off time somehow and that bent the pushrods - anybody got any experience with that one.

thanks alot - I will try it!

We are thinking it is cam or cam gear that messed up the rods. Any experience here would be good.Can not adjusting the valves cause this kind of problem? What would cause the cam or cam gear to break to such a degree - KDP??

We are getting close on what the problem is not - anyway we will have to replace the bent push rods on #6 in a 94 and really dont want to pull the motor forward to do it- Your input would be great. Thinking about drilling holes above so they have room to come out but that opens up new potential problems. Anybody have good experience with this one?

I have just got off the phone with a guy from Tork Teknology who is explaining my installation problems with my new raptor 150 pump. Says he has had alot of comments latley about raptor pumps and so he has done his research. He suggests going to his site and and you can get a newletter updates about all kinds of stuff. His name is Rob and his number is 616-298-9103. Or http://www.torkteknology.com/ He would like to write a tech article about installing the raptor and I would like to encourage him. He spoke with me about things like the stock fuel filter handling only 53 gph while the raptor pushes 150>> Also talked about the overflow valve sending most of the fuel back to the tank - seems to know of the fixes for these issues.

Which 2 cycle do you like and where do you get it?

Yes the stock pump is disconnected - have not taken it off until I get a plate to cover the hole. I will go into the raptor right away. It just seems like a good place to go since it seems like a low fuel issue that coincides with a pump installation. Thanks I take it you dont like the turbo stuff as a problem?

So if the wastegate is stuck open it will have trouble making boost. Does that mean the engine will have trouble burning fuel, not getting the egts hot? The truck acts like it has a low power problem could this be because the wastegate is open? Can the wastegate get stuck open intermitently? We also installed a raptor pump at the time we first had problems with the new fuel plate. Do my symptoms coincide with low supply fuel? - I am wondering if the pump is working intermitently or if there is some debris in the inlet port screen.

Today I was in the shop all day with the truck - first we tried the fuel plate foot which was actually too hi not to low. I am not sure why someone would adjust it that way. We adjusted it back down drove it, ran great then back to its old ways with low power. Then we tried a suggestion of tying up the arm on the fuel shut off. It did not seem to work either. I even removed the K&N filter figuring maybe it was not enough air to make good burn. Not the case. We also installed a boost gage today. Its is making only around 10psi when not running good and closer to 15-20 when the fuel plate decides to kick in. The truck runs well but its not wanting to rap out over about 2200rpm, low egts. Then it get a mind to open up and I have no limit on rpm and power, egts are up. I am looking for an explaination of what the waste gate actuator on the turbo does and what are the symptom if not working properly? That was the next thing the shop wanted to check but we did not have time. The fuel injection shop that did the initial fuel plate install still likes the bad plunger in the pump idea.

No I have not got a gage yet but it sounds like it may be the way to go especially when I pull a trailer. Yes we are talking about the big P7100 12 valve. The block and head are from a 93 but the rest is 94. You mentioned the adjustment procedure for adjusting so the foot on the governor arm will not hang up on the fuel plate. Do you have a direction for me on that? I will snoop around on the forum but if you have directions and maybe pics that would be great.

I am still having intermitent problems with the truck. I just posted the info below on another forum and thought you guys may be able to help. The more eyes the better. I took my road trip pulling trailer today. Started off great good excelleration and power. Around the 40-60 mile range it started to poop out again. No power, pedal to the floor to get 65 out of it barley up to any heat on the exhaust. Later after it cooled down and began home still ran poorly. Then stopped for about 1/2 hour it took off like a truck. Ran great almost all the way home - on diesel only just to make sure. About 3 miles from home just after I got off the interstate it lost its power again. Cant really tell why. I spoke with the shop who did the plate and he really likes the sticky plunger in the pump idea. Is there any merit to that one? Its pretty expensive. I asked him about possible problems with the AFC, he did not seem to think to likely. He suggested if we have problems after it heats up then starts to fail that may suggest a pump prob. (sticky plunger) Said he used to see alot of issues with that but that was years ago. I have got an idea: The electric 3 way valves that control fuel type are set up for my truck - the "stock" version. Am I just demanding more fuel than those valves can produce. Sometimes maybe it just works because I have good pressure from the raptor we installed so it goes good for a while but then when it looses momentum it dies out? On the other hand it runs good up and down hills even when I let up on the excellerator to get off the temp for the exhaust. Are those AFC units prone to problems? Intermitent? --- Update to the previous post... I really like your thought about the fueling arm hanging up. I am not sure how to do it. Your directions are straight forward but my knowledge about the AFC is not there. If you still like this fix after the problems I have been showing let me know - I will tear into the AFC and get it figured out. --- Update to the previous post... I thought it might be my electric valves that switch my fuels. They have 1/8 opening as set up for stock truck. I ordered new valves with larger openings and by-passed my existing ones. I thought it might be getting restricted fuel - nope! Good fuel supply, good return. As the truck gets warmer it seems to loose more power. We did install a raptor pump at the same time we had this plate put in. Has anyone seen them fail or give problems. It is acting like it is starving for fuel. If you have got ideas for me I would like to hear them. Thanks --- Update to the previous post... This is what I have done to make this work. [*]retightened with new hose clamps pressure hose from turbo to AFC [*]confirmed its not a fuel problem - happens on diesel and veggie [*]confirmed its not restricted by electric fuel valves - by-passed - same problem [*]moved AFC housing and adjusted starwheel This is how the truck is acting: Runs great, obvious fuel plate addition. Truck warms up and then power slowly dies out of it. Sometimes the power comes back after it has been running weak. I wonder if there is a hairline crack somewhere that expands when it heats up and it looses boost. When the truck loses power it raps out to around 2000rpm and it drops the heat on the exhaust. If I let it set for awhile and come back it runs great for awhile. Suggestions from others - if you can rule out any of these ideas or add to them I'd apprecaite knowing about it. [*]Local shop suggest it is a sticky plunger in the main fuel pump - rebuild fuel pump! [*]Put on new AFC housing and see if it solves problem [*]pressure test AFC housing [*]check pressure from newly installed raptor - pump/plate installed same time just as problems started [*]leave fuel cap off tank and see if it was getting a vaccum in tank

I am interested in what you said about the fueling arm hanging up. I just posted the below paragraph on another forum but I thought it might help you see what is going on. Do you have pics or a diagram for the adjustment above you are suggesting that I do? I noticed that the truck will sometimes wrap up to 2200 rpm and max out with a temp of about 600F and stay there. Other times it will take right off with no limit on the tac seemingly and the temp skyrockets. Is this how the truck should be running? Or am I missing something?

I had a fuel plate and pyrometer installed on my 94 yesturday. Ran great, they had to turn it down a pinch. Today its not running as well. I called the shop he suggested it was because I started running my veggie oil agian today and probably have plungers sticking in the fuel pump from the veggie. Is that a possibilty? . For the last week or so I have run on reg diesel with amsoil cleaner and was running great especially after fuel plate. Today began running veg again. Today another difference is I was climbing hills with a trailer (8K). Should it matter? The thing acts like it will not rev up, then once I get it up to speed it takes off again. Sometime fuel plate sometime not - I really need consistancy. This is used for work. Is it the veggie or something else. Maybe just needs fine tuned? And if it is the plate how do I do it.

Thanks for the pump schooling - so you guys suppose I should go with OEM on this one. Have heard alot about folks using the electric aftermarkets but must be for 24 valve? I will order a new stock OEM and get it going. Just for the record it sounds like the OEM pumps are fixable, an "O" ring. Maybe I will tear this one down first before I buy new. This pump has been replace about 3 times last 6 years or so. It could be that the previous owner did not buy oem but aftermarket, then I replaced again. So the stock mechnical supply pumps are better and fixable? If you guys know of a write up or questions and answers sheet that shows weaknesses and strengths of the 12v and 24v in a condensed version could you direct me to it. It would be nice for us fairly newbies to have a troubleshooting sheet of somekind. I am also currently having trouble with my 03 24v. Only 93 is running. I need these trucks for work so any good direction is appreciated. --- Update to the previous post... Just so I am clear on this. You guys like the stock supply pumps for 94 12v. This has the larger pressure pump not the one on previous years. I am sure you have already got that in mind but I want to make certain I am understanding correctly.

I am getting issue like not enough fuel I believe. How much pressure and volume do I need to supply my 94 high pressure pump? I bought a small electric diesel fuel pump but think it is not enough. I think this pump puts out 7lbs pressure, pretty sure its inadequate. The symptoms are: idles great but getting up to hwy speeds wants to cut out. It has similar symptoms to air in the fuel system. I have heard about FASS, air dog etc.. I want a simple pump that will put plenty of fuel/pressure to my big pump. Whats a good deal for the money? I want to install it in the engine compartment after the fuel filter. I know some of you don't like the idea of after the filter, but do you know any success stories. If installing the pump lower and closer to the tank is my best option for longevity that is fine but would prefer it under the hood. YOUR INPUT WOULD BE GREAT!