EcoRI

Happy to see fuel and tired from not going to bed last night, I forgot about the high pressure... Before that I whacked the side of my face on the crossmember for one bump and half of a black eye, common sense was not present :duh:Air is worked out and that green machine sounds better than ever :woot:Fuel pressure gauge needs to be replaced for sure. The needle dropped past 30psi and pointed straight down, moved clockwise and counter-clockwise, it's toast. Then I'll be all about staying green!It was a relatively inexpensive fix, learned more about truck's wiring, finally have a scan tool and auto electrical diagnostic multimeter/tool, and feel more confident about working with electrical and fuel system components.Thanks for the support, I truly appreciate you guys!

Thxy, glad to know!Cleaned grounds, cleared codes, checked connections and everything else, and put new batteries in. Cranking the engine was a thing of beauty! Started up with 3 injectors cracked and fuel came out of all of them in equal pressurized spurts. VP is alive :hyper:Ran rough as all heck, turned engine off to tighten the injectors up because the pressurized fuel hurt when it hit my forearm. Continuing to run it and hope it smooths out. To those with a RP-100, where do you have the pressure adjuster set? I don't know if my fp gauge is working properly now after new batteries. When I had it running the gauge went to 26psi, before that the cranking psi was at 6 (I believe this to be normal?) and spiked to 26 after it started. The pump adjuster is about a 1/4 turn shy of the most you can turn it towards "+". I'm going to lower it and see what my gauge does.

Thxy! I wondered if one is on its way out but didn't think to link the two things together, I'll pick 2 up this evening. I found a post @ CumminsForum.com <link>"Have you checked your batteries? ... with the battery being low the ecm suffers powerloss and you have truck issues." - I don't know this feller whatsoever, taking it with a grain of salt. CCD BUSS from PCM to connector over valve cover is good. (+) 0.5 (-) 0.4 Checking grounds now, working from engine wiring diagrams. I appreciate any suggestions from readers as to what compenents, wires, connections to check/test! Like to eliminate possibilities before dumping $$ into buying new parts if not 100% sure that's the problem. It's quality bonding time with my truck. Can't beat that.. [pic is the freeze frame of when the P0602 was sent, dunno if that's helpful or not]

Relay is good.Connections look good, both clean and still had dielectric grease.

~ thank you, your knowledge of these engines is crazy smart! Is it of any importance (i.e., would it help to determine the cause of P0602 as ECM or programmer) to know what program/chip/flash was used? I can find the previous owner on facebook and ask. Prefer not to unless it's valuable info for the situation.

Gut feeling I have an electrical problem as well... I'll clean the VP connection as suggested, I bought some electrical connection cleaner before I started my original project (Operation: Gut the truck and kill rust all over the floor panels). You aren't kidding, there are grounds EVERYWHERE! Definitely not buying a new VP until I pin point what's up. Tomorrow I'll do the test for the VP as outlined by Blue Chip Diesel (unless there are reasons I shouldn't?). You and me both. I have the diagrams he's posted and the Service Manual from the download page. I think it would be easier if the truck wires *looked* like the diagrams, all straight and neat and whatnot. Yup. I'm not liking electricity at the moment (as I type on my MacBook from the garage illuminated by fluorescent lights... hehe) ------ Battery questions: My batteries were getting low and cranking was waning, I hooked up the charger to the batteries (duh). Again forgive my ignorance with the electrical matters, but is it correct for the driver's side battery to show almost full charge, the passenger's side battery to show empty, and the dash lights not come on when the key is turned "on"? After passenger battery was charged a little the truck behaved normal with key in "on" position. What in the heck? That doesn't make sense to me. Second, the charger doesn't charge them all the way to full. Instruction manual said it should take 1.5 hrs to complete the charge and green light would illuminate. Hasn't happened for either battery over many hours of charging. The batteries not being charged is why I haven't dived in to the connector testings as of yet. I'll try to make sense of the electrical diagrams this evening and poke the engine in the morning. I need to take my happy to WV by Sunday because classes start Monday bright and early! Stressed a bit? Nahhhh....... --- Update to the previous post... ahh Scheisse yeah buddy!

Ahhh that makes sense why my codes didn't show up right. I purchased a scan tool this afternoon! No worries, you have been a great help and it's much appreciated!!! Scan tool pulled the following codes, click the definitions to go to Marpar1973Man page for details: P0602 - ECM Fueling Calibration Error - Internal fault condition detected From cumminsforum.com (link here) "P0602 is generally an erroneous fault code, disregard the P0602 fault. Perform fuel system flow tests, reference TSB 14-03-06 revision A to diagnose the original engine performance problem" and some random dude said, "0602 essentially means unrecognized software, it comes with lotsa programmers". I have an unknown chip/program/thingamajig, maybe that's the cause of this one? But I had my truck scanned by Advance Auto a few weeks back just to see if anything was lurking in the shadows. There was something about the fuel level sender not changing over miles (P0460), but it went away and never came back. Maybe their scanner didn't do a great job and 0602 was there the whole time? (I hope) P1689 - No Communication between ECM & Injection Pump Module - Data link circuit failure between ECM and fuel injection pump. Low power, engine derated, or engine stops. Removing fuel relay can cause this code (link here). So for some reason or another the ECM is taking a nap and not telling VP what the heck to do. I removed my fuel relay (checking it, it tested good) however it wasn't when engine was cranked, key was in the "on" position. Don't know if that will send code or if it has to be cranking at the time (?) P1698 - No CCD Messages Received From PCM - Bus communication failure to PCM. A Companion DTC was set in both the ECM and PCM. PCM is monitored for receiving BUS messages with ignition on and engine off and with engine running. DTC may set if there is no communication with the PCM. I'm gathering from this the PCM and ECM are not communicating properly??

I'm more or less in a panic, feeling helpless, lost, and like I need to *do* something productive/proactive, and the warning light was a stretch. You're definitely right about 5psi being too late. I pondered that after I got home and left it in the bag, figured I wait and get input from the more knowledgable folks before doing anything with it Wires moved to the alt and ground --- Update to the previous post... (My train of thought can be discomboobulated sometimes, very ADD) Few days ago after new lp install I checked fuel-related fuses and relay. Swapped fuel relay with wiper relay & wipers still worked. Pulling fuel relay (key was “on”) tripped CEL, I ignored it for the moment assuming the comp was PO'ed I pulled the relay while it was on (maybe a be P1689? But I don’t know if that will only trip if engine is cranking or key being “on” after a 2-second prime by the lp). Anyhoo… I checked the codes a few minutes ago, " ----- P1693 ----- P done ----- 223,860." “a 1693 is never by itself... always wait for "p done" to flash twice to get codes from PCM and ECM” >>Mike's link<< I only have a companion DTC and one P done - can that happen on an otherwise healthy engine?? If either control module wasn't working would the other one have a code indicating such?

dripley, your comment got my ole' brain-train a rollin’… I read something from/about Blue Chip Diesel and they said (I’m paraphrasing, here's the ~LINK) if upon cranking, one line flows but the others don’t or some only trickle the rotor has seized (the line rotor is stuck at flows, the other lines that trickle do so by pressure from the lp since the ip cannot hydro-lock). If that’s correct, it makes sense a seized rotor (Blue Chip’s example) and a VP without the ECM connection (dripley’s experience) would display the same air bleeding pattern. That’s exactly what my truck is doing, yet VP and that 9-pin thing are happily connected to ECM. I’m not big on the idea the VP seized at the same moment I swapped lp’s and tried to start it (unless I have poo for luck!). I know there’s plenty of fp in the low pressure lines. My train of thought is that the VP somehow isn’t getting the juice or proper instructions to do its darn job?? Bad ground? Some other connection loose or hooked up funny? ECM telling the fuel system a bunch of lies? I’ll find a map or diagram of the VP and whatnot to see where wires should go, ground, etc. and check my truck. Also bugging me, the lp doesn't do the 2 second prime each time I turn the key to "on", I have to turn the key off for a minute or two, then back to “on” for lp to run 2 seconds (doesn’t do diddly-squat if I turn the key to “on”, let it run for 2 sec, key off, then back to “on”). I mention it b/c my OE lp ran for 2 sec each and every time the key hit “on”. I miss my Cummins --> ~ Any and all input is welcome! I'm a giant with fuel and electrical stuff!! I need to get a solid handle on how ECM, VP, lp, solenoids, and relays work together, I hate not knowing and eager to learn!

I don't know what's up with #1 and #3 because zippo fuel is present when those are cracked. I'm too chicken to try starting fluid!I don't know what to do - for Pete's sake, shouldn't fuel be gushing like it did from #6?? I'm open to any and all suggestions!!Side note: New fp sender isn't playing nice with old gauge, until I get a new set I'm going for a low fp warning light, in the event it starts at least I'll have some fp monitoring.

dripley, I'm afraid something may be wrong. It's only cranking, not trying to start. The batts are low and I'm on way to pick up a new charger/starter (75 amp and 12 v is the largest in stock, I think that's ok? )A modest amount of fuel came out of 4 and 5, when I cracked 6 is *really* gushed out. I'm thinking that's how they all should look, so I went back to 3, 4, 5 being cracked. Cranked several more times, only a bit of leaking from 4 and slightly more from 5. Stopped when batts were low. It doesn't seem right to take so long, then again I haven't had to bleed from injector lines before. Low pressure lines were bled just fine, and plenty of fuel came out of hose that connects to VP when key put to "on". I'm worried. And a might bit scared.

#5 and #4 are bled and tightened. #1 and #3 are cracked. I can't reach #6 to save my life and #2 of course is hiding behind the intake horn. It's taking a while... Technically I did run it out of fuel when I tried to start it but (unbeknownst to me at the time) lp wasn't getting enough power to do anything (test light showed current when key turned "on" but didn't run). Okidoki back at it!! --- Update to the previous post... Edit: #6 is cracked. It's taking a lot of cranking. No more than 25 seconds at a time, 3+ minutes between each crank (except for this last bit because I fought with #6). I've read other posts about it taking a while, but I'm still worried about the stupid thing

I read Mike's instruction page for re-priming the engine, and still have questions, which are likely dumbs ones at that...After lines 3, 4, and 5 are cracked, crank the engine (less than 30 secs w/ 2 min between each time) - do the lines have to be tightened up as the engine is being cranked? (in which case I would need a helper) Can I do the cranking and then hop over to tighten lines that leaked out fuel? I did my own "bump" business three times (after getting fuel @ the VP's inlet line) and #5 had fuel. I tightened it up and bumped several more times. No more fuel present at 3, 4, or 1 (I cracked 1 after 5 was tightened). If I read the instructions correctly, I am to actually crank the bad boy over for >30 seconds while lines are cracked, not just a "bump"?Can I hurt the VP just by cranking the engine to bleed the lines? If/when the engine starts and runs rough, will this hurt the VP? As you may guess... I'm afraid it will go kaa-poooey

Before I set up the red and black wires I texted a mechanic buddy and asked where he thought they would be best (ASE Master Tech dude). He advised I connect them to the positive and negative connections going into the fuse box (the positive comes directly from the battery). I tested power at the lp and it was there... I wasn't hip on putting them at fuse box because the directions didn't mention that as a possible location, but heck he is the mechanic, not me, so I rolled with it. Electrical... BINGO! I moved the wires to run directly from the battery... flipped the key to "on"... and dang it all if I didn't hear the pump!!! I need to run to the store for my mother and once back I'll bleed air and whatnot and hopefully get this bad boy running!!

Gotchya. I'll do this once the first two lines are bled and I reattached inlet line on filter. Yup, I've had that page bookmarked on my laptop and iPhone!! Line going into filter from lp is loose. I just double-double checked lines and connections... and found a kink in the line from tank to lp, out of sight behind the frame next to pump... :banghead: the lines from Raptor are extra long (to also work on extended/mega cab applications I assume?), I made a wide loop on each line and secured away from road debris thinking it was smooth (FAIL). Straightened line out & "bumped" five more times - no fuel @ filter inlet (the connection which is loose). Instead of cracking the lp outlet line as I did yesterday, I just completely it out, only has traces of fuel. Pulled inlet line out and it leaked fuel (never been so glad to see diesel fuel my entire life). Reattached both lines. Bumped starter twice. Removed lines - no fuel at inlet or outlet. I'm afraid to ask... that kink in the line - could it have killed the lp?? Side note: the OE lp made noise when I turned the key to the "on" position, I could hear it from the cab. The Raptor hasn't made a noise which I can hear at all. I turn the key to the "on" position (through the window) and duck under the truck to listen. I hear a "click" (sounds like a relay sorta), no pump-like sounds. Same when I bump the starter, I jump out (while key is still in the on position) and stick my head next to the lp - can't hear a hum, bzzzz, nada.