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About EcoRI

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  1. Happy to see fuel and tired from not going to bed last night, I forgot about the high pressure... Before that I whacked the side of my face on the crossmember for one bump and half of a black eye, common sense was not present :duh:Air is worked out and that green machine sounds better than ever :woot:Fuel pressure gauge needs to be replaced for sure. The needle dropped past 30psi and pointed straight down, moved clockwise and counter-clockwise, it's toast. Then I'll be all about staying green!It was a relatively inexpensive fix, learned more about truck's wiring, finally have a scan tool and
  2. Thxy, glad to know!Cleaned grounds, cleared codes, checked connections and everything else, and put new batteries in. Cranking the engine was a thing of beauty! Started up with 3 injectors cracked and fuel came out of all of them in equal pressurized spurts. VP is alive :hyper:Ran rough as all heck, turned engine off to tighten the injectors up because the pressurized fuel hurt when it hit my forearm. Continuing to run it and hope it smooths out. To those with a RP-100, where do you have the pressure adjuster set? I don't know if my fp gauge is working properly now after new batteries. When I
  3. Thxy! I wondered if one is on its way out but didn't think to link the two things together, I'll pick 2 up this evening. I found a post @ CumminsForum.com <link>"Have you checked your batteries? ... with the battery being low the ecm suffers powerloss and you have truck issues." - I don't know this feller whatsoever, taking it with a grain of salt. CCD BUSS from PCM to connector over valve cover is good. (+) 0.5 (-) 0.4 Checking grounds now, working from engine wiring diagrams. I appreciate any suggestions from readers as to what compenents, wires, connections to check
  4. Relay is good.Connections look good, both clean and still had dielectric grease.
  5. ~ thank you, your knowledge of these engines is crazy smart! Is it of any importance (i.e., would it help to determine the cause of P0602 as ECM or programmer) to know what program/chip/flash was used? I can find the previous owner on facebook and ask. Prefer not to unless it's valuable info for the situation.
  6. Gut feeling I have an electrical problem as well... I'll clean the VP connection as suggested, I bought some electrical connection cleaner before I started my original project (Operation: Gut the truck and kill rust all over the floor panels). You aren't kidding, there are grounds EVERYWHERE! Definitely not buying a new VP until I pin point what's up. Tomorrow I'll do the test for the VP as outlined by Blue Chip Diesel (unless there are reasons I shouldn't?). You and me both. I have the diagrams he's posted and the Service Manual from the download page. I think it would be
  7. Ahhh that makes sense why my codes didn't show up right. I purchased a scan tool this afternoon! No worries, you have been a great help and it's much appreciated!!! Scan tool pulled the following codes, click the definitions to go to Marpar1973Man page for details: P0602 - ECM Fueling Calibration Error - Internal fault condition detected From cumminsforum.com (link here) "P0602 is generally an erroneous fault code, disregard the P0602 fault. Perform fuel system flow tests, reference TSB 14-03-06 revision A to diagnose the original engine performance problem" and some random dude
  8. I'm more or less in a panic, feeling helpless, lost, and like I need to *do* something productive/proactive, and the warning light was a stretch. You're definitely right about 5psi being too late. I pondered that after I got home and left it in the bag, figured I wait and get input from the more knowledgable folks before doing anything with it Wires moved to the alt and ground --- Update to the previous post... (My train of thought can be discomboobulated sometimes, very ADD) Few days ago after new lp install I checked fuel-related fuses and relay. Swapped fuel relay wi
  9. dripley, your comment got my ole' brain-train a rollin’… I read something from/about Blue Chip Diesel and they said (I’m paraphrasing, here's the ~LINK) if upon cranking, one line flows but the others don’t or some only trickle the rotor has seized (the line rotor is stuck at flows, the other lines that trickle do so by pressure from the lp since the ip cannot hydro-lock). If that’s correct, it makes sense a seized rotor (Blue Chip’s example) and a VP without the ECM connection (dripley’s experience) would display the same air bleeding pattern. That’s exactly what my truck is doing, y
  10. I don't know what's up with #1 and #3 because zippo fuel is present when those are cracked. I'm too chicken to try starting fluid!I don't know what to do - for Pete's sake, shouldn't fuel be gushing like it did from #6?? I'm open to any and all suggestions!!Side note: New fp sender isn't playing nice with old gauge, until I get a new set I'm going for a low fp warning light, in the event it starts at least I'll have some fp monitoring.
  11. dripley, I'm afraid something may be wrong. It's only cranking, not trying to start. The batts are low and I'm on way to pick up a new charger/starter (75 amp and 12 v is the largest in stock, I think that's ok? )A modest amount of fuel came out of 4 and 5, when I cracked 6 is *really* gushed out. I'm thinking that's how they all should look, so I went back to 3, 4, 5 being cracked. Cranked several more times, only a bit of leaking from 4 and slightly more from 5. Stopped when batts were low. It doesn't seem right to take so long, then again I haven't had to bleed from injector lines before.
  12. #5 and #4 are bled and tightened. #1 and #3 are cracked. I can't reach #6 to save my life and #2 of course is hiding behind the intake horn. It's taking a while... Technically I did run it out of fuel when I tried to start it but (unbeknownst to me at the time) lp wasn't getting enough power to do anything (test light showed current when key turned "on" but didn't run). Okidoki back at it!! --- Update to the previous post... Edit: #6 is cracked. It's taking a lot of cranking. No more than 25 seconds at a time, 3+ minutes between each crank (except for this last bit because
  13. I read Mike's instruction page for re-priming the engine, and still have questions, which are likely dumbs ones at that...After lines 3, 4, and 5 are cracked, crank the engine (less than 30 secs w/ 2 min between each time) - do the lines have to be tightened up as the engine is being cranked? (in which case I would need a helper) Can I do the cranking and then hop over to tighten lines that leaked out fuel? I did my own "bump" business three times (after getting fuel @ the VP's inlet line) and #5 had fuel. I tightened it up and bumped several more times. No more fuel present at 3, 4, or 1 (I c
  14. Before I set up the red and black wires I texted a mechanic buddy and asked where he thought they would be best (ASE Master Tech dude). He advised I connect them to the positive and negative connections going into the fuse box (the positive comes directly from the battery). I tested power at the lp and it was there... I wasn't hip on putting them at fuse box because the directions didn't mention that as a possible location, but heck he is the mechanic, not me, so I rolled with it. Electrical... BINGO! I moved the wires to run directly from the battery... flipped the key to "on"... and da
  15. Gotchya. I'll do this once the first two lines are bled and I reattached inlet line on filter. Yup, I've had that page bookmarked on my laptop and iPhone!! Line going into filter from lp is loose. I just double-double checked lines and connections... and found a kink in the line from tank to lp, out of sight behind the frame next to pump... :banghead: the lines from Raptor are extra long (to also work on extended/mega cab applications I assume?), I made a wide loop on each line and secured away from road debris thinking it was smooth (FAIL). Straightened line out & "bumped" f
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