SoClose

Thanks Old Blue- We're rewiring that SCTM right now so the power comes from the key and not directly from the battery. I tried 2 other SCTMs and all 3 were running the retractor solenoid round the clock, so figure the issue is with that solenoid, not the SCTM.

Thanks for the advice, guys. I had the seats re-upholstered a few years ago in 2-tone so don't want to upgrade to newer ones. I'll do the re-wire by pass.

So any downside to wiring the power to the key and not the battery?

Also- since it is a seat belt TIMING module, should I hear that clicking for 30 minutes after the ignition is turned off? Currently, I hear it all night if I don't pull the battery disconnect.

Oil-Flo Safety Solvent. Just wash thoroughly with soap and H2O as soon as done.

So here's where I am now. The seat belt retractor solenoid in the driver's seat clicks when the key is turned off- hardwired to the battery, not the ignition. Pretty certain that's what's killing my batteries. Been sniffing around the 'net and see this is an old issue. All 3 seat belt timing modules I now have show the same thing with that solenoid and the clicking. All 3 will lock the seat belts as soon as you turn the sbtm over, which is what it should do, so think all 3 are good. Is there any current consensus how to remedy this? We're thinking about wiring the sbtm to the ignition switch not hardwired to the battery. Again, really appreciate the knowledge here!

I'll open it up and check it out. Went to the junkyard and they had one '99- and the module was sitting on the floor. There were 5 '98s and 3 had been harvested. One was the same number and the other was different. So brought 2 home for $17. Going to the shop today to check f it also is drawing down the battery. Someone I spoke with on the phone offered me a used one for $495.

Thanks guys: Neither Module Masters and Auto Computer Specialists can help. Looks like it's off to the junkyard. The closest one has a '99 (my year) and several '98s, so should be good. Maybe I'll buy 2 to have one in reserve!

Gents: Have a battery draw down and my shop traced it to the Seat Belt Timing Module. DAP called 10 sources, my shop has called multiple and no luck. I've seen some videos how to bypass but not ready for that yet. At this point my plan is to go to a junk yard and harvest a used unit, but would certainly prefer a new or remanufactured one. Any thoughts or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Always so cool to me how much information is shared on this site, between how knowledgeable some are combined with the experience of others. I and am sure many others really appreciate it.

I'm late to the party here but glad you sorted it out. I have an alternator that is about year old and red Optima batteries, maybe 2 years old. Went through a period where on start up the voltage was low and the warning light came on for about 60 seconds then up to 14V and light off. I throw a trickle charger on it now once per week. Will have the whole system tested next oil change. To get back to your 1st post, I had a MM3/Juice which sounded great when I spoke with them. Not a good experience with the 1st few tunes that they did- not nearly as good as the Smarty/TST stack. No warning that the batteries were weak, the MM3 went into a death spiral which they couldn't figure out (I believe it is made in Italy and the sales guys here don't speak Italian) and lost the ECM which had me down for weeks to find one and have it flashed. That's when I looked around and found the Quad.

Thanks- Every time I think I'm 'done', something new turns up. Summer project is to work with Infinite Performance (out of Iowa) for new turbo wheels for the compounds and fresh, hopefully cleaner injectors.

Cody is a good guy and very knowledgeable in my experience. Some difficulty with the office. Seems like they are really, really busy.

The Superstick with the synchros( a necessity) and coolers (?) shifts much quicker. I believe 1st is the same and 5th is same as 6th in the 5600, so there is another gear in there and the rpm drop is noticeably less, which helps to keep the turbos spooled up. I’m about 1000 miles in, so maybe a little more break-in to be had. Does not shift as precisely as I had hoped, but much better as miles have added up. I question whether it was worth the money to replace a 4500 that was solid, but a little happier every day now. I was happier with the Phoenix Friction clutch (feramalloy) and appears that the Valair dual quiet disc is still bedding in. Shudders when downshifting, and I always heel-to-toe which should make that smoother.

Thanks- Before this I thought the Colt cam was the biggest jump in performance/clean exhaust. This truck barely smokes with power at 4 or 5 (of 7). That was a big discussion before tuning- the stack just smoked too much.