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  1. Well, got it running!! It was the camshaft position sensor. Allow me to explain. Idk what I spun the other night, but I believe it was the gear that the starter connects to. I was running on 4 hrs sleep and was rushing so the mechanic could pick up his son. I went back this morning to look at the tone wheel, and it wouldn't budge. I had my gf spin my crank, uh, i mean my trucks crank, using a 15/16 on the alternator. The tone wheel moved then and almost ate a screwdriver that I stuck through the CKP sensor's hole. After an difficult battle, I removed and replaced the cam sensor. I reinstalled the intake horn, APPS, CKP sensor and starter. I tried to start the truck, and it didn't start. But, I noticed 200 RPM's. I got the check gauges light, so I connected jumper cables to my '05, and cranked it. After making the gasping sound, the truck fired up! My issue must be an anomaly with 2000 cummins having both cam and cranshaft position sensors. After I got it hooked up and running, I noticed a couple things I need help with: -I have a fuel leak coming from above the starter. Drops of fuel pool below the starter. I am wondering if there's a loose connection somewhere by the lift pump. This started after I removed the starter, so it's most likely in that area. I noticed my truck doesn't have anything attached to the fuel filter housing drain plug and other trucks do. There's nothing leaking from there, though. -Name this hose- I attached a video- If you watch the video, you can hear my truck running! Note- I did tighten the connection that was leaking in the video (lift pump to injection pump). I accidentally removed what I think is a vacuum hose. Any idea where this goes? (at 00:34 in video) Thank you again for the help troubleshooting.
  2. Thank y'all. I'm not sure if the engine has ever been out. Got the ECM back from cummins without an argument. The lady was nice and took the fee off. Will attempt all of the steps this weekend and put a dent in the project! Hoping the screws for the tone wheel aren't sheered.
  3. Yes! found a couple here https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Cummins-diesel-engine-crankshaft-TIMING-TONE-RING-Trigger-Dodge-Ram-3942441/362783743812?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Da65c2588a79648689b63db1f08668c7c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D202642985027%26itm%3D362783743812%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851#viTabs_0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crankshaft-Tone-Ring-for-1998-2000-Dodge-Ram-Cummins-Turbo-Diesel-24-Valve/202642985027?epid=27031259456&hash=item2f2e769043:g:PjwAAOSwtNlco2fe
  4. Yes, I can rotate it with a screwdriver. I did with a 1/4" socket extension. Sounds good- I just like to practice before I do the repair. I've read you have to rotate the crankshaft to remove the tone wheel, so I wanted to make sure I know how to do it. I have no prob working on other people's stuff, but get nervous doing my own stuff. But, if I don't fix this, the truck's just gonna sit. Man, I saw 3 3 gen diesel's on the way to work this morning. The chunky black truck smells like the egr was deleted. The purple one is my daily.
  5. Thank y'all again for helping me. I am gonna have my gf spin the crank when I check the tone ring. I've been looking for an excuse to get an engine crane, so I guess I'll get one to lift the engine up a bit after I confirm the tone wheel is whack. Hoping I'll be able to get the pan off saturday. Will post updates.
  6. Interesting. Let me make sure I'm getting this right. Since the tone wheel is connected to the crankshaft, it should be very difficult if not impossible to rotate with a screwdriver through the sensor hole? I saw it- It looks like a big gear. Thank you for the feedback- The tone wheel being loose would def explain the code. Regarding cummins, I didn't get a chance to meet the service guy, other than he must think I'm retarded- He sent me a bill for $220 to plug the ecm in and tell me its bad. I'm gonna raise major hell to get it back without paying, as I was told I would pay if there's an actual repair done. If the tone wheel's bad, the ecm report was a misdiagnosis. I did have a chance to meet the part people who I found were quite stupid. Or at the least unqualified. He couldn't find a part without the engine serial no. so I looked on a random diesel parts website and got him the number so he could sell it to me. If I adjust the motor mounts, can I remove the oil pan without removing the transmission?
  7. Well, I got the verdict back from cummins. ECM is bad- it doesn't communicate. I'm glad I know what the problem is now- I'll look at the rebuilders. Cummins wants $2,900 for a new one, which is more than I paid for the truck lol. Do you have to send them the old one? I couldn't tell if the crankshaft was rotating. The gear inside, in front of the sensor hole rotates- not a lot of resistance. Can you link the ECM companies please? Can't find it on the site Also, on the repair estimate it says Diagnostic Charge: $345. They're not expecting me to pay $345 for telling me it doesn't communicate?
  8. Thank you all for the responses! Made a dent in the diagnosis/repair last night. I picked up the mechanic from my job, and we took out the crankshaft position sensor. I stuck a socket extension in the hole, and the tone wheel rotates. There is no play in it back and forth. Afterwards, reconnected the starter sans the sensor and I oscillated a wrench in front of the sensor as the mechanic tried to start the truck. As soon as I put the wrench in front of the sensor, I heard the lift pump turn on. Thus, this eliminates a bad sensor or bad wiring as a source of the problem. Truck still didn't start. After we tested this, we removed the ECM. I am going to bring it into cummins today for them to look at it. I also will put in a new camshaft position sensor in case its the culprit. As far as I can tell, the wiring is good. There were no visible parts that are messed up. Do I need to check the body grounds? They all seem tight to me, but I didn't voltage test them
  9. Hi all, My 2000 ram 2500 cranked, but would not start. I managed to get it started and it got me home, but the tachometer said 0 for the whole ride. I scanned it and got p0336 which is a crankshaft position sensor fault. I put a new one in (from rock auto), cleared the code, and when I went to start it, same problem- The starter cranks, but no start. The RPM's stayed at zero when it was cranking. I haven't had great luck with rock auto, so i bought a CKP sensor from advance auto with a lifetime warranty. Put it in, tried to start it and the same exact problem! it cranks but does not start. At this point, i figured it's an electrical issue, so I ran a whole series of voltage and resistance tests. Appreciate the detailed code information! Each of the 3 parts of the sensor produced voltage or completed a circuit. When i connected A to C (sensor to ecm signal wire), the lift pump turned on. The middle wire B on the connector (on a hall effect sensor) had a lot of resistance from the CKP sensor connector to ECM connector, so I replaced it, and again, the same issue! It cranks but doesn't start. I just got the batteries a couple weeks ago- I've tested them and know they're good. I am stuck and can't figure out what else the issue could be. I am wondering if: -for some crazy reason, i got 2 bad brand new sensors? -maybe one of the female connectors doesn't meet the male pins? they sell a part at autozone i can buy to replace the CKP sensor connector -let's say it's not an electrical issue, maybe an issue with the lift pump not sucking enough fuel? when the sensor is disconnected, i can turn the lift pump on manually by connecting A and C from the hall effect sensor. But, when the sensor is in there, i hear the lift pump turn on intermittently, like there is a reset period. but it's not loud like my 3rd gen. in my 3rd gen, any time i turn the key to run, i hear the fuel pump humming loudly from the tank I've read about this issue and see most people have their issue fixed after replacing a CKP sensor or two. I haven't been so lucky lol. Please give me your opinion. Could it be an issue in the fuel system? While it ran, the truck drove fine- nothing felt erratic Thanks!
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