Jump to content


Expired Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Unskilled

Personal Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks again for the responses. I will investigate the vacuum line more next time I look at it. I just ordered a new (used) harness that was from a wrecked truck that was running. My dad told me I am crazy to put more money into this truck, but I am going to sneak (budget) a part every month or so. I messaged this dude on youtube who had a similar problem and his truck is still sitting after a year, and I don't want to be in that position. I also gotta get the screw out of the ECM. In a month or so, I will bring the ecm to the repair shop. Hopefully if the ecm is good, they at least have a new 50 pin male connector sans the busted hex bolt. I think the new harness will fix at least 50 percent of problem. I think the ECM was fine, but it looks like I gotta fix it now thanks to the screw. I didn't expect these problems when I started the project, but am hoping my work on this will make me a better mechanic. I've learned a lot about electrical testing, scanning and hall effect sensors. When this truck ran, it was fun. It even drove better than my 2005. Hopefully it will run again and be reliable. Maybe I'm just dreaming.
  2. I'll get a pic. I grab the bundle of wires right before the ECM connector and pull them upward a bit. That's what makes the difference. This isn't my truck, but this is where I grab them. My wires aren't bolted to the block. I haven't peeled back the tape, but i could check below that. Did not see anything else. I noticed a bolt below the ecm on the block that has a ring around it. That maybe a ground. Testing continuity will be my next step!
  3. Thanks, Evan! How do I test that they're secure? The ECM harness doesn't come apart, but worst case scenario I can pull a wire replace the little metal insert when I narrow down the bad wire Good call, gonna test both connectors for continuity.
  4. Hello all, I still have a couple tests to do to eliminate a bad harness as the culprit. I got an update for the crank no start/intermittent start truck problem. I went upstairs to look at the truck after a break and it fired up quickly. It had a healthy sound idle, but the tach was bouncing and then the idle sounded a little uneven. I pushed the harness into the ECM again and it was steady idling and the RPM flutter went away. I couldn't fit the probes into the back of the harness to back probe and check voltage with it running, so I disconnected the harness, then checked pin 30 and 49. Both have a good, solid ground and produced a solid 12 volts. I don't remember the decimal, but it was the same reading as touching the battery directly. This eliminates the ground being the issue. I reattached the harness and guess what.... No start. It just cranks. To make things worse, I overtightened the harness (to correct looseness) and broke the end of the hex bolt in the ecm. After my mistake, I cleaned the connector thoroughly with electrics cleaner and left the truck alone. I took out the ECM and am gonna try to remove or rethread the screw hole. I also bought some T pins so I can back probe the harness with it connected. I want to see if either the CKP or Cam position sensor is not communicating when it's plugged in. There is a discrepancy on the pinouts. On this chart from the manual ABC correspond with pins 3, 4, and 17 for the CRANK position sensor- NOT the Cam position sensor. Do you guys know which ones correspond with the CAM position sensor? Worst case I can trace the wires, it's no big deal, but if someone knows it'd be mad helpful. I am going to back probe them and look for voltage (hall effect sensor test). I also will wiggle the hell out of the harness to see if voltage drops off from one of them. If this looks good, it has to be a bad ECM. I was really disappointed with this truck, as I expected the engine to be it's strongest point. It's not all bad. I've learned a lot about electrical from this project. On a side note, I am still crazy about trucks. I took my mustang to get inspected at the dealer and mentioned the truck problem to a mechanic there. We talked for a while, and he convinced me to try a new truck. Holy hell diesel trucks have changed a lot in the last 15 years. You can barely tell the engine's running. I wound up trading my mustang and 2005 cummins for a new f250 diesel. It's so smooth. Let me know if you have any more ideas. I still wanna solve this problem.
  5. Thank you. Yes, it's an auto. Would you probe the female end of the ECM connector to check for continuity as well?
  6. Thank y'all, I got the leaks fixed. I'm still having a problem with the truck, however. I drove it to the dentist's office and it did fine. On my way home, I noticed a loss of power. I pushed the pedal all the way down and it was not accelerating. I finally limped it home, but it wouldn't go uphill and was smoking white/blue smoke a lot. It gave me a code for p0216 for the injection pump. I went to get my dad and my other truck to tow it, but then it started up fine and I drove it home. So weird. Later that night I drove it around with no problems, but I scanned it and got a **** ton of codes (see attachment). I also noticed the tach wasn't steady. It seemed to float up and down. I opened the hood and grabbed the wire harness by the ecm and pulled the wires up and pushed them into the ECM thoroughly. The CEL went off and the tach operated normally again. This leads me to believe it's an ECM issue or an issue with the wiring connection. Why else would I suddenly get a lot of codes? The next morning, the truck wouldn't start. I've left it alone since to get my mental composure back- I was hoping to daily drive the truck- and come up with fresh ideas. I am thinking either cummins was right and the ECM is bad or there's an issue somewhere in the wiring. I put a new fender on the truck and maybe I didn't connect a ground tight enough or there's poor contact between a ground and fender. The other possibility is a loose pin inside of the wiring connector. The truck's 20 years old and the pins in the connector have been vibrated on the engine for 20 years. What do you think?
  7. Well, got it running!! It was the camshaft position sensor. Allow me to explain. Idk what I spun the other night, but I believe it was the gear that the starter connects to. I was running on 4 hrs sleep and was rushing so the mechanic could pick up his son. I went back this morning to look at the tone wheel, and it wouldn't budge. I had my gf spin my crank, uh, i mean my trucks crank, using a 15/16 on the alternator. The tone wheel moved then and almost ate a screwdriver that I stuck through the CKP sensor's hole. After an difficult battle, I removed and replaced the cam sensor. I reinstalled the intake horn, APPS, CKP sensor and starter. I tried to start the truck, and it didn't start. But, I noticed 200 RPM's. I got the check gauges light, so I connected jumper cables to my '05, and cranked it. After making the gasping sound, the truck fired up! My issue must be an anomaly with 2000 cummins having both cam and cranshaft position sensors. After I got it hooked up and running, I noticed a couple things I need help with: -I have a fuel leak coming from above the starter. Drops of fuel pool below the starter. I am wondering if there's a loose connection somewhere by the lift pump. This started after I removed the starter, so it's most likely in that area. I noticed my truck doesn't have anything attached to the fuel filter housing drain plug and other trucks do. There's nothing leaking from there, though. -Name this hose- I attached a video- If you watch the video, you can hear my truck running! Note- I did tighten the connection that was leaking in the video (lift pump to injection pump). I accidentally removed what I think is a vacuum hose. Any idea where this goes? (at 00:34 in video) Thank you again for the help troubleshooting.
  8. Thank y'all. I'm not sure if the engine has ever been out. Got the ECM back from cummins without an argument. The lady was nice and took the fee off. Will attempt all of the steps this weekend and put a dent in the project! Hoping the screws for the tone wheel aren't sheered.
  9. Yes! found a couple here https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-Cummins-diesel-engine-crankshaft-TIMING-TONE-RING-Trigger-Dodge-Ram-3942441/362783743812?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Da65c2588a79648689b63db1f08668c7c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D202642985027%26itm%3D362783743812%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851#viTabs_0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crankshaft-Tone-Ring-for-1998-2000-Dodge-Ram-Cummins-Turbo-Diesel-24-Valve/202642985027?epid=27031259456&hash=item2f2e769043:g:PjwAAOSwtNlco2fe
  10. Yes, I can rotate it with a screwdriver. I did with a 1/4" socket extension. Sounds good- I just like to practice before I do the repair. I've read you have to rotate the crankshaft to remove the tone wheel, so I wanted to make sure I know how to do it. I have no prob working on other people's stuff, but get nervous doing my own stuff. But, if I don't fix this, the truck's just gonna sit. Man, I saw 3 3 gen diesel's on the way to work this morning. The chunky black truck smells like the egr was deleted. The purple one is my daily.
  11. Thank y'all again for helping me. I am gonna have my gf spin the crank when I check the tone ring. I've been looking for an excuse to get an engine crane, so I guess I'll get one to lift the engine up a bit after I confirm the tone wheel is whack. Hoping I'll be able to get the pan off saturday. Will post updates.
  12. Interesting. Let me make sure I'm getting this right. Since the tone wheel is connected to the crankshaft, it should be very difficult if not impossible to rotate with a screwdriver through the sensor hole? I saw it- It looks like a big gear. Thank you for the feedback- The tone wheel being loose would def explain the code. Regarding cummins, I didn't get a chance to meet the service guy, other than he must think I'm retarded- He sent me a bill for $220 to plug the ecm in and tell me its bad. I'm gonna raise major hell to get it back without paying, as I was told I would pay if there's an actual repair done. If the tone wheel's bad, the ecm report was a misdiagnosis. I did have a chance to meet the part people who I found were quite stupid. Or at the least unqualified. He couldn't find a part without the engine serial no. so I looked on a random diesel parts website and got him the number so he could sell it to me. If I adjust the motor mounts, can I remove the oil pan without removing the transmission?
  13. Well, I got the verdict back from cummins. ECM is bad- it doesn't communicate. I'm glad I know what the problem is now- I'll look at the rebuilders. Cummins wants $2,900 for a new one, which is more than I paid for the truck lol. Do you have to send them the old one? I couldn't tell if the crankshaft was rotating. The gear inside, in front of the sensor hole rotates- not a lot of resistance. Can you link the ECM companies please? Can't find it on the site Also, on the repair estimate it says Diagnostic Charge: $345. They're not expecting me to pay $345 for telling me it doesn't communicate?
  14. Thank you all for the responses! Made a dent in the diagnosis/repair last night. I picked up the mechanic from my job, and we took out the crankshaft position sensor. I stuck a socket extension in the hole, and the tone wheel rotates. There is no play in it back and forth. Afterwards, reconnected the starter sans the sensor and I oscillated a wrench in front of the sensor as the mechanic tried to start the truck. As soon as I put the wrench in front of the sensor, I heard the lift pump turn on. Thus, this eliminates a bad sensor or bad wiring as a source of the problem. Truck still didn't start. After we tested this, we removed the ECM. I am going to bring it into cummins today for them to look at it. I also will put in a new camshaft position sensor in case its the culprit. As far as I can tell, the wiring is good. There were no visible parts that are messed up. Do I need to check the body grounds? They all seem tight to me, but I didn't voltage test them
  • Create New...