InGear

https://www.freightwaves.com/news/cummins-repurposing-engine-filtration-material-to-make-n95-masks

Thanks, I got a cut-off installed, recommended by dripley. When you wired your 150 amp circuit breaker for the WT mod, does the aux/load side connect to the battery and the batt. side of the breaker attach to the alternator cable?

Yes sir, I bought one after I read some threads on here about gauges. The auto meter gauge kit had a isolator with it. It was aluminum cylinder shape with a diaphragm about 1-1/4" in diameter and about 3" long. Seems to be pretty steady. Only time in the seat will verify the setup. I've had 3 vehicles all with issues since my Dodge started bucking. I have two back in shape and the Toyota needs a flexplate (cracked), so that will be a new adventure. Two wheel drive automatic. Never done one solo.

I was able to pump out the tank into 5 gallon bucket with the old pump. Dropped the tank, pretty straight forward when practically empty. May have been 4 gallons left in it. I have a transmission cooler behind the skid plate so had to settle for mounting on the outside of the frame. Worked out well. I got my Airdog from Vulcan along with the draw straw bulkhead rig that seats in the fuel module where the old in-tank pump motor resided. A new Autometer gauge mounted below the ashtray and tapped in the ashtray light for power for the illumination feature. Running at 15psi. Got my throttle back. WooHoo!! I still have the analog test meter hooked to the APPS module plug. It reads pretty steady all the way through the throttle but I want to test it tomorrow with the cruise control on a smoother road. Bouncing around and into the throttle, I wasn't for sure the needle wasn't fluctuating or my foot moving with the bouncing. Thanks for your help.

The ground from the controller is attached to the body ground next to the battery. The charge controller manages the charge and shuts off when batteries are full charge and manages the alternator charge to protect the solar panel.

I use the 5watt, 12volt ECO-WORTHY(shown on the same page as link for Amazon) with a 10amp charge controller from Wholsale solar. I began with a harbor freight cheapo that worked for long enough to be out of warranty. The charge controller is mounted on the cover for the air bag connectors. Theres a hot lead on the controller that powers the CB. It works well . The solar panel sits on the console/arm rest when parked and leaned up against the CB while mobile. The CB is mounted on a fabricated bracket that I cloned from one that Geno's sells. This set up has served me well.

Yep. Seems like a safer option. Less rigging. I have a transmission cooler mounted on the frame right behind the transfer case but it looks room between the fuel tank and it on the inside of frame. I want to keep it accessible but" high and dry"

It looks to me that the bed would hit the cab just lifting the front and leaving the back bolts loosened. I have a 4x4 quad cab. Stock rims.

Take all the bolts loose, drop some long bolts through the passenger side to keep the bed from sliding off then tilt and support the bed, Pull out the fuel pump/sender and modify w/Draw straw? Otherwise with out a post lift, I would need to jack up the rear to clear the high rear part of the tank and accommodate the jack and what ever I would use to support the tank, which I'm guessing I would need to lift it about 10" minimum. I'LL spray down the bolts tomorrow. Snowing here at the moment.

Thanks Royal Squire. I Found the straw and pump for a good value. Should arrive to me next week so it gives me time to wrap my brain around the process of removing the tank and I can pump it down into some 5gal. containers as it is full.

This keeps popping up in my ad feed at the top of page. it doesn't look like the one in Mopar1973Mans pictures of his airdog install

The second pump being the in-tank pump? There does look like a splice connector in some wiring that plugs into a sensor that is in the block on the drivers side near the delete. would the pump run when the oil pressure came up? That splice connector may be for the edge attitude

Thanks. Can the pump delete thing on the side of block go away? I'm a retired plumber. I can plumb anything. Just now getting familiar with the Cummins. It has run strong until this bucking thing showed up. even with the VP44 death code set, it ran great for almost two years. I will be shopping now. Thanks again mopar1973man

Will I have to drop the tank to install the draw straw and is the airdog with the water separator and filter all in one housing the better set up? Could I remove the pump delete and the factory filter housing if I use that set up?

i'm pretty certain that my lift pump is drawing through an in tank pump. The pump is dead. The wire are plugged into it and I traced it up under the hood and they are bundled in two wire looms and ther is a red wire that splits and is plugged into a relay. I guess this is the fuel pump start relay. I unplugged the Fass pump and Key on. No Noise. Bump starter. No noise. So Pump in tank, I'm guessing must be dead. The Old factory lift pump "block delete" is still attached but the lines that ran through it are unhooked. The Fass draws from the outlet of the in-tank pump and the return is still hooked into the intank pump. It looks like I will need to rework this set up before I keep trouble shooting my "driveability" problem. Thanks for leading me down the right paths. I guess I need a draw tube set up. I'm not that hip on the lift pump set up.

I need some troubleshooting advice

Yes. I agree too big. I was thinking about taking an extra inline fuse holder and making a jumper from one stud to the other and remove the big fuse, then use it for accessory as needed. After THE WT- mod I was able to get the ripple down .013-.019 at alternator b+ , with the batteries full charge and readings were pretty steady after the grid heaters cut off. I was surprised. I tested the APPS using an analog volt meter probing the blue wire with black tracer. Key in on position. moving the pedal constant up and down steady and needle moved consistently smooth from 0.5 to 3.5 and back. Took it out for test run. Still has some stumbling issues ( not real responsive in the pedal after hitting overdrive) and now observed the fuel pressure fall to zero at full throttle. The Fass HDHP is 12 years old. I change the little inline pre filter but didn't get to go re-test. Pricing lift pumps on line. Right now I still have the stock filter location and the frame mounted Fass back at the tank on the frame. I'm gonna extend the probe wire from the blue/ blk tracer into the cab so I can watch the needle on the volt meter while highway testing tomorrow morning.

Thanks I'll check that out. I am waiting on a inline fuse for the blue wire to finish my "WT mod". I was wondering what you think about moving my grid heater power feed from the battery post terminal connection to the now vacant alternator feed terminal in the fuse center on the 140amp fuse. One less exposed connection at the battery terminal.

I'm waiting on a new Positive cable and Negative "jumper" for between the batteries to arrive today. I found a company out of Louiville, KY who custom made the positive with a whip soldered into the terminal for the new circuit breaker and my arm and leg are still attached,LOL. then check that ripple again after the WT-mod is complete. Then I'm leaning toward a little better fuel pressure if the mod cures my driveability problems. Snow in the air today so it may be tomorrow before I get the re-routing of the wires complete. Thanks for your input dripley and Mopar1973man. I emailed the FASS rep again about rebuild kit and instructions for increasing Fuel pressure.

I emailed Fass this morning and just received a reply. I sent them the model and serial #'s and it the pump was made 09/06/2007 and is non-adjustable. The rep said it was a 150gph pump that they do not make non-adjustable anymore. 4yr. warranty with a new one from FASS. Is ther any difference between FASS and AIRDOG? Good to know. are there replacement seals?

I pretty sure, without uninstalling it, that this FASS doesn't have adjustment. I'm looking at the airdog 150 online, just not quite sure which one yet. I have 15psi at idle and 9/10psi running up a steep grade at 10mph and mild grade at 70 mph.

I got my new to me DMM and tested the new alternator. Tests good at battery but some noise at the alternator (0.033 to0.047) Not bad but... Took the truck out for a test drive to watch the fuel pressure gauge. I had it run up under the hood and wedged against the windshield under the wiper.) The pressure at it lowest point( motoring up a steep hill in the neighborhood was 8 or 9 psi and on the highway up a slight 2 mile grade running 70 it was steady at 10psi. At idle or no load the gauge showed 15psi and no higher. The truck, with the new alternator (Denso reman) and all the grounds cleaned up, plugs to transmission checked and wiped off and the middle plug at the PCM checked for dirt or corrosion, actually performed somewhat better. It didn't "fall on it's face" after shifting into overdrive. It was slow to respond at the peddle and did stumble a bit but would respond to the pedal and move on down the road. So making steps in the right direction. I peeled apart the wire loom and exposed everything. I've been reading a long thread on the W-T mod and just came to the one about running the 4/0 jumper wire between the batteries. Right now I have a solar battery tender run through a10 amp charge controller tied into the passenger battery. I was thinking that maybe I would move the solar charge wire to the drivers battery once I move the Alternator charge wire to the passenger battery and skip the 4/0 jumper wire mod. I'm gonna order the ring terminals and circuit protector and go to the parts store for the M5 x 0.08 bolt. There is a hole on the gear case on top just under the corner of the bell crank bracket. It has threads. another hole on the lower back side but threads I have yet to clear. If this is the normal point for grounding, I may have to chase with a tap. It was full of clay dirt. Also is there any advantage to leaving the plug in the ground wire that is salvaged from the passenger side? Thanks.

Today, my fuel pressure gauge came in and I removed the low pressure sensor from the inlet to the vp44 )to install the gauge rig for testing the lift pump pressure. Truck at idle shows 15psi on the analog gauge. I put in in gear, foot on the brake to simulate load and at 1750rpm gauge read 10psi. I put it back in park and slow revved it to 2000rpm and it read 11psi. I'm not sure how old this fass pump is.

I cleaned off the lift pump and got a shot of it with the phone. It's a FASS hpfp Mounted on the frame in front of the fuel tank. Also has a small rusty looking inline filter between the tank and lift pump. Looks like a 1/2" od. fuel hose from the lift pump to the stock filter housing on the engine. I ordered a fuel pressure gauge and tee. It may be in this week but this little town I live in is about 5 days away from most parts orders. I'll update as I progress. Thanks Today I changed out the alternator. I had found one for a good price at Summit Racing two years back after I had just put a new pair of DEKA batteries in the truck. I was having trouble find a DENSO reman anywhere except Summit. Summit ended up backordering it until June. Today I decided to install it while I troubleshoot this thing. I think I'll expose that harness and gameplan the "W-T ground wire mod". Do you have a pic of the final look of the mod. It looks like from your pics, that you only end up with the ground that splits from the connector that goes into the firewall on the passenger side and the ground that runs past the alternator is eliminated and then the wires that were tied into the eliminated wire are all joined together and rerouted to ne grounded to the gear case. I'm sur it will be clearer when I get them all exposed and separated.

Thanks for the reply, In had thought about using bedliner. The plan is degrease, pressure wash, sand a couple of surface rust areas, por-15 those areas and undercoat. Did you spray, roll, or brush on the liner underneath? What 's your mpg with the 10speed?