Vinster_Beta
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Everything posted by Vinster_Beta
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I definitely am planning on keeping exchanger with the wide spread area I drive and travel to. Eventually I am planning on replacing the stock radiator with a mishimoto replacement, and tandem a secondary with an electric fan to complete the system. (Just had to change out the coolant radiator.) Main thinking I was hoping was somebody replaced theirs and if they experimented with the cheaper ones I keep seeing popping up. Don't know if it's one of those things they all come from the same Chinese family or if there is an actual difference. -
Only issue I'm worried about is the internals mainly, I'm trying to prevent internally failing. No leaks yet but I'm all about preventative maintenance. I'll keep ya in mind and may refer back to ya. Eventually when I get the time and money set aside I'll plan on swapping to a manual. Just don't have either ATM. I plan on switching all the coolant lines, and all transmission lines on the system. I think I saw a kit on PDD site. I'll just have to buy additional fittings to add trans temp sensor, but I think on something about the 97's attempt sensor was external on their kits and it gives you the T-port option out of the hot side so I may be in luck. I'll have to look back or I'll probably end up call them and asking for additional fittings. I've already got to get more line if I plan on putting auxiliary cooler in the loop. So when I call I'll see if they can hook me up with the additional fittings I need for that as well. I do appreciate everybody's input, that's why I like this site so much it's very helpful when it comes to figure it out and deciding stuff on these trucks. Lots of helpful / knowledgeable folks
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My current Heat exchanger is a little crispy after the 20 years of service and a few years around some road salt. I've seen several listings on Heat exchangers varying in prices from ~$800 dollars to as low as ~$200 dollars and curious if anyone has found a difference between them or has had issues with the different options out there. Trying to save penny's where I can without risking the reliability of the truck. Eventually I also do plan on adding an additional cooler in the loop but curious if size of the cooler will add (if such a thing) too much restriction. And lastly, currently I have my Trans Temp sensor located on the output of the trans, but I have read about people mounting it after the Heat Exchanger due to more stable/ accurate temp. I am curious on opinions on that. I tow a lot with it and trying to keep everything as happy as possible, eventually ordering a new valve body is on the list here in the next few weeks and hope to see temp improvements in that as well.
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I got around to checking voltage using thr ODBII port this evening. Pin 11 is showing 2.43 volts Assuming you ment pin 3, is showing 2.47 volts. Is it that ticky with being a little off?
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Just did a check of the connectors and they look pretty mint with factory dielectric grease still in them, so no sign of corrosion there. Is there a specific way I need to check the CCD voltage? I'll probably have to source a OBDII tool that can do that function unless I can just multimeter it.
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I'll check on those when I get back from work today, is the p1693 just corresponding with the 1694 code? I'll also have to find a wiring diagram/sheet to go off of for testing the right pairs/wires.
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Every once in a while i experience a very quick loss of power as if you turned the truck off and then it comes back and acts normal. The whole thing only will last for a fraction of a second but is very easily noticeable. Sometimes, rarely, but sometimes when I first crank the truck and go to pull out of my parking spot the truck will just instantly die. Then i can fire it back off with no problems after that. Only showing 3 codes which is p01693, p01694 and p0230, I have a mechanical fuel pump on the truck so that's why its giving a code P0230 but I am curious about the others. I'm gonna start by checking grounds and the spliced factory grounds to make sure that couldn't be an issue. I do run a Quadzilla but doubt that is the issue. Curious to know if anybody has some other info to go off of. I know they are companion codes but don't know what to do about it.
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Im glad everyone is patriotic on here, sucks we don't have a lot of that anymore anywhere else Probably to save me time and preventing myself from foxtroting the valve body, im probably gonna play it safe and look at getting one of @Dynamic built. And swap out the few other listed parts that @LorenS suggested that ain't included on the new valve body. Still working on getting the parts together for the TC override setup, now is a good time to install a real trans temp gauge (more physical than the quadzilla app). In fighting myself on where i'd lime to mount one sense my pillar is full and im not too crazy about mounting it right in front of the main cluster (personal problems).
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Turbo is mainly for just Egt control, but it is nice to see what it can produce what room i have as far the power level I could achieve. Heck I probably Will never know how much it will make cause the likelyhood I take it to a dyno is slim. I just dont need to make a whole lot of extra power I ain't gonna utilize. Efficiency is one thing, bellowing smoke and racing people to the next light isn't my objective by far. My friends dont agree but they ain't funding the project or filling the tank. I was debating on rv275s or something slightly larger but still possess the ability to dial back and still be efficient when time for injectors come. Haven't quite nailed a preference yet. I assume it just comes down to how you drive and how aggressive you tow as far as a single vs triple. I couldn't ever find a solid answer either looking though the threads. Might be one of those things, I'll verify what I have and kinda see what happens (hopefully nothing at all). Its till healthy and working just fine, just didnt know if I need to put it on a short-term/ long-term plan.
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My truck came with a rebuilt trans and a new TC, have no idea what internally was done as far as the rebuild, But I guess I can roll over the TC and see what was put on. It still works great and all. Is there any reason i would ned to look at say a triple disk TC vs a single disk? More more material = last longer?
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Yea cant wait to feel the difference towing with it and being able to manually overide it. Heck ill have the new turbo in this week but doubt ill get to it till the following weekend. So as far as trans work to make it handle 350ish HP, is there anything else id need to look into other than a valve body? Input & output shafts? TC?
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Well that clears up that problem. Very detailed and very much appreciated! Only question I have is when the TC is manually locked up I will have to make sure I have the column shifter in the gear I want to prevent it upshifting, correct? Definitely would be convenient to buy a premade harness for this but I should be able to figure it out hopefully...
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Its definitely sounds like a sweet feature to have especially with extensive towing. Idk if i'd do a 3rd to 2nd downshift without unlocking the torque converter (sounds painful) especially having to do more upgrading to the internals. Still value reliability over anything, this is definitely helping me with the list of things needed to make it all work. Heck i wouldn't even know where to start on wiring it to do the manual lockup
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That does settle a lot better for me as far as cost. The billet shafts it recommends wont be a problem but "upgraded gear-train" concerns me. And I understand buy once cry once and the reliability factor of it. I just know it gets expensive quick. Might be a thing to contact them about and see what is needed for the 350ish HP range for reliable towing.
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Unless the transmission work can be done well below the cost for a manual swap, it might seem that doing a swap will be the cheapest now. Or could be my motive of overbuilding that is driving up the cost for it. I'd like to have a full lock up option but I would be at a lost to mess with the auto trans to force it to make it do a full lock up.
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I've only heard good things about them and how effective they are. Thats one of the reasons I wanted to swap the auto for a 5 speed or 6 speed stick. But its one of those things I wont have the time to do the swap myself and idk if I want to swallow that pill with having a shop do the work for me. Plus I have a nack for doing everything myself that way I know how its done. I've got your high idle switch installed and heard using it in tandum with the exhaust brake helps with a quick warm up. Big thing will be just to beef up the auto trans to tolerate the increase in go go power and stopping power now. By far best experience on a forms page so far, so much helpful feedback!
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Whelp, just ordered a new hx35w off of Benz Force. Hopefully it works out. Probably just gonna rehab the old elbow on the hy onto the new hx. Gonna have to wait a few weeks before I can look at getting an exhaust brake for it but at least ill have better peace in mind when it comes towing egts. Now ill have to nail down exactly what trans mods I want to do so it can tolerate it long-term.
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I didn't know that and glad you said something on that. Long-term plan is 4.10's on 35's which should help the trans a little. I've already got a good set of gauges set up and constantly watch. Is there a difference between the hx35 and the hx35w? And i noticed that multiple places sell a 12cm and a 14cm housing for it. Assuming the 12cm will fit like stock, but is it really worth going to a 14cm with the setup I'm trying to achieve? Appreciate everyone's input so far, this is helping me a lot.
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Ight, that and ive got 33's on a 3.54 gearset to worry about with the trans. I plan on getting the trans either swapped or beefed here soon. I tow very frequently in the mountains but im pretty sure you cant do 70 anywhere on I40 through maggy valley anyways. Lol Id just like to be able to manage interstates with rolling hills without any effort.