Vinster_Beta

Will i have to change out the downpipe or is it pretty much bolt on?

Currently I have a mostly stock 2001 Dodge 2500 with an auto tranny (sadly). It has stock injectors (probably original) and a rebuilt hy35 turbo and 5 inch straight pipe exhaust. No stud, no major mods. Have a quadzilla tuner and running a pretty mild tune off it and im trying to go for lower egts. Eventually id like to make 350ish HP and thats about it. It tows regularly 3k to 14k constantly and and does pretty decent at it... Until egts start getting around 1200F. Im trying to find a common Proven setup that works for this application. I do plan on putting an exhaust brake on it at some point and would like to try to steer away from having 2 turbo's and keep it simple. Any suggestions?

Id hope with all of that it would settle with your setup. Debating on either getting the tuner now and watch what I do or sink the money into the trans wait out a bit longer before getting a tuner. I do plan on getting injectors at some point (rv275 or similar) but I have that at the bottom of the list, current ones are doing just fine (stock)

Only thing that scares be about creeping the HP numbers above 350hp is how much I have to beef up the current setup as far as the trans. Currently the truck is Stock at stock power and is quite "Interesting" pulling hills in Dahlonega ( Steep grades) and in the mountains. Not going for the boil tires going hwy speed with 10k behind it, Just looking for a safe way to give it more *** without costing too much in the future. I've read probably hundreds of posts about the stock 47re being barely strong enough for stock power levels (wished I have a stick). Eventually I want to get a Quadzilla on the truck but i'd like to have a little more confidence on the trans not wanting to go if I try to squeeze a little more power out of the current stock setup. Again do appreciate all the feedback guys

So it seems that building the current trans, adding additional cooling, and a combo of going to 4:10s and maybe running a 33-35" tire will be the most "reliable" solution?

One of the first thinga I did to the truck was install the posi lock cable kit for that. If excessive heat is gonna be an issue should I add another rad/fan combo to the current system? It has the factory HD tow package but better safe than sorry. Ive heard the 2nd gear lockup is worth it and I do plan on getting that

Ive heard few things about them tbh and im glad im hearing a different opinion on them too. I pesonally only hear good things out of them but only by a handful of people who have them. Yes I use 4wd but ive heard some have gotten it to work. Weather they used a divorce transfer case or not they dont make it clear. Thata why im looking for options and suggestions Btw appreciate everyones input. This helps a lot

ATM I have a 3.55, curious to know if the gear splitter would help the offset with the absence of 4.10's. Id like to keep the 3.55's for the daily driving fuel economy but I think the double OD of the gear splitter will make up for it. Either way the potential regearing and splitter will be a little ways out on this project (Just had my carrier and pinion bearings replaced). Does Dynamic build your core or can you swap for a built one? Understand there will be downtime in between but want to try to keep it minimal.

Trailer weights empty about 3700lbs but its a 14000lb trailer. Understand that is putting the truck over the manufacturer's rating but that's my problem to deal with. 14000lbs is the max combined weight of trailer and cargo I want to put behind my 20 year old truck for sanity sake

Currently I have a stock 47re trans as far as my knowledge ( Previous owner had it rebuild but no records of the work done). End goal is to take the truck to 300 - 350hp and cap it. I want to build a reliable towing trans out of what I have and eventually look at a GearVendor gear splitter if I ever get around to it. As it stands now though, its a completely stock motor and trans combo that all works like it should but I want to try to get ahead of the ball on doing the preventative maintenance on it. I'd like to know what I will have to get swapped out and recommendations on what to get. I'd rather overkill the trans than it give out on my 1000+ mile road trips with the Deckover trailer behind it. Any opinions are appreciated.

So I checked the screens and to my surprise the had hardly any particulates on it, at least not enough to cause any issues. I guess next cheaper solution would be is to swap out the drawstraw for the bigger aftermarket version. The truck still uses stock fuel lines back to the tank. I guess I'll plan on swapping those out for bigger lines and see if the extra volume could help.

I guess I'll start with that this weekend and see what Horror stories if any surface from it, and yea, the filter on the side of the block is what I was referring to as well

Agreed, when I put the new lift pump system I did verify that mine didn't have the in-tank pump on it but I haven't bothered to drop the tank and check screens if the pickup unit has any. Tempted on maybe adding a Fuel sump or see if I can find an aftermarket filter setup to rid any air that could be getting into the system. Was trying to avoid using a sump in fear of it either leaking or getting knocked. I figured the stock filter system would had done a decent job of riding the system of air but i could be wrong.

I haven't had very many starting issues or cold start issues yet, other than the very occasional ( One every month) where I will have to hold the Ignition longer or hit it twice. Which I always thought it was fuel slowly draining back to the tank. Hasn't prevented daily driving or anything so I haven't bothered with that. Figured it was an old diesel truck thing. Wondering if its something simple like the check valve or something

I have a 2001 Dodge 2500 5.9l that is stock other than a Predator mechanical fuel pump that I have recently put on. I have had the issue even before I've done any work to the truck of there being brief second of no power and then returning like nothing happened. I will be driving normal (Smooth accelerations) and every once in a while the truck will loose power and go back to normal in a matter of a second. I've always thought it was a problem with the stock lift pump on the side of the motor so i recently replaced it with a predator lift pump and haven't seen it run below 14psi. But even after I did so it still does this intermittent loss of power issue. It can vary from every other ride to weeks between cycles. I have no codes or lights on the dash and am starting to think it might be the VP disagreeing with me and wanting to quit. I have no tunes or anything going on with it and I tried resetting the APPS and nothing has changed it. Only other thing I could think of is air or suds making its way to the Injection pump every so often. Anyone have any thoughts?