Recian426

Found out today my new reman ecm is trashed. My old one had a bad processor and SIA said they can't get processors to repair them anymore. That's why I bought a reman from ARES tech only to find out today their lifetime warranty is only on the original unit not the one they send you as replacement. Needless to say I'm losing faith in the truck and ecms. The WTS won't come on, fuel pump won't run, heater grid relays stay on and no communication with a scan tool. PCM even has no communication unless you unplug the ECM. Basically similar to my original symptoms of bad processor. From first day I had this ecm it wouldn't start until I cleared the meriad of codes it had even tho it was a plug and play. one time on the highway I lost engine power for a few seconds and it came back. The last 2 weeks if truck sits more than 2 days it would crank and stall a couple times prior to starting then this. Disconnected all the 5v sensors on the engine itself, CMP, ckp, tps, coolant temp and it still didn't come back. So I read the page about ecm rebuild reliability companies and the one I got this ecm from isn't in any list there. I did the alternator diodes and alt wiring mod prior to replacement. To my main question is there anything I could have missed in diagnosis? Could I trust another reman unit seeing as SIA says processors are no longer available does that mean all the reman units will have original processors which is the main ecm failure point?

I've run into the same thing on other vehicles before

Power braking doesn't really make a difference but it does have to be in gear foot on brakes not moving but turning from left to right or vice versa in tight spaces. Once it pops once ( or twice back to back) it won't pop again no matter how many times you turn the wheel until you change gears, roll a little then turn hard again. Thinking about it I'm leaning toward wheel bearings like one person mentioned. Thinking about it i do occasionally going over rough roads get a sound like my lugnut are loose or sway bar links aren't tight. a metallic clanky noise. It's the only thing I have touched yet. Haven't even taken them apart. They're tight when you check them unloaded

Thats what I thought you meant but I wasn't sure. On 2wd there's 2 sets of tie rods with sleeves attached to a bar that's hooked to idler and pitman arm and that whole thing goes side to side

I'm not sure what you mean by taper. I've gone back over everything and double checked all bolt tightness. Like I said it was doing it before the replacement of parts. They had to be replaced to get it into spec after the wreck. I was just hoping the pop would be corrected too. Driving it this week it seems to have become more focused on steering. It'll do it sometimes twice when turning from side to side while the truck isn't rolling but in gear on the brakes

Seems to be related to turning the wheel more than anything

I was thinking wheel bearings. Mine doesn't have a 1 piece hub it's the old style with a spindle and 2 taper bearings

I believe so but this is up front, 2wd truck and I can feel it in the floorboard by the door

It's not when you shift like u joints but after changing to reverse and you start rolling while turned hard you get a loud pop just once. Change to drive and start rolling a foot or 2 and it'll do it again. I had wife power brake and roll a little tried not to run my *** over or take a bath to the face from the air coming out the crank case vent tube on the driver side and we can get it to do it but it can be felt in every component from tie rod bar to control arms not just one area

I've read through here a bit but nobody seems to have my issue. When I turn sharp not full lock trying tj say back out of tight parking lot spaces whenever I change wheel direction or change from drive to reverse then roll a little or give it gas I get a hefty clunk up front. I've had it for 2 years and I've seen some other dodge 2nd gen 1 tons do it but I've seen some not do it so I'm not thinking it's normal but I've tried everything I can think of. It's a 2wd. I had to replace everything from frame out due to RF having been in an accident before so alignment couldn't be brought into spec. All moog stuff, I've got new upper and Lower arms, new inner and outer tie rods and sleeves, new shocks and springs, new sway bar links as well as new idler and pitman arms. It seems to be I can feel it in my left foot I. The floor. Like something is shifting when the vehicle changes gears and rolls but everything is new. Cab bushings LOOK ok from what I can see

Every time I see sagging liner the foam has deteriorated that's the issue. With no foam to attach back you'll make a mess. Getting the liner out and recovering isn't an overly difficult or highly skilled job just pay attention

You can go to the sewing section like at walmart and get some pins and pin it back up I was able to find some sites with WEH numbered fabric but not 2264. I've seen a couple labeled as natural beige but their color palate natural looks more like our trucks than beige. Or they have natural.. And beige but not natural beige

Being an old truck naturally I've got headliner sag and the back was black due to third brake light leakage. Now that I've got it out after finding and fixing the light leak I want to recover the liner. Id like to do charcoal to match interior but I think I'll stick with tan to match the other roof parts. I can get the material on ebay but there's a few of that light tan and I'm not quite sure what exactly it is. Computer doesn't always show color shades exactly right either. Does anybody have any info or links to the exact color to match the visors and overhead compartment

I haven't been on in awhile since my last repair (adjusting the TV cable) seems to have corrected the issue. It also shifts while there's still power rather than letting the engine run out of steam for a second before shifting. I've been driving the truck for awhile wanting to make absolutely sure that it has fixed the problem before posting back. In these few weeks I have yet to have the issue return

I do alot of work on hellcats so I'm more familiar with diablo and how it marries to the car but I've read some of the diesel tuners do it as well once you tune a pcm/ecm it's married to it. They put the original software as a backup in the tuner and you can't just take the tuner and flash another vehicle with it unless you return the first one to stock. I could go buy a tuner, tune my truck and sell the tuner to somebody afterwards but they wouldn't be able to do anything with it.

If it makes you guys feel better I drive this when I want something faster than my 15 altima. With that 2.5 and slushy CVT this truck beats it bigtime. However there's No comparison to the MPG of the altima, smooth, quiet and all the bells and whistles being a SL lol remote start with steering wheel and seat heaters on those cold mornings is great

It did help drastically there's no denying that. I did some TV cable adjustments and I'm going to see this afternoon if they help any. I may start looking into replacing that ecm and probably do the APPS as well. Tune would be great but I've had my eyes open for a year and have yet to come across anybody selling a used unmarried one for pre common rail 24v. The apps you guys mentioned is cheaper than aftermarket ones and nobody has said anything bad about it

You're right. I for some reason thought the apps signal was wired to both the ecm and pcm but what I'm seeing is ecm only. That's odd because that noise filter others try to sell only attaches to the 5v supply to the trans solenoids nothing to directly do with the TCC

Yea I'm all stock. Haven't pulled the trigger on a $800 tuner yet. Wanted a juice with attitude. my ECM has a processor failure that I've seen before on other trucks. Last one I saw he made a good 60k miles before it completely failed. I know it's on its death bed and it's a matter of time. I need another $900 ecm before I commit because itll be married to the tuner once it craps out I'm kinda stuck

Just looked at the ESM. That list is accurate the only thing I didn't list is engine vacuum is also included as a signal input. Not sure on diesel if it's still monitored as strongly. I also noted in the diag tree it says "3-4 shift occurs immediately after 2-3 shift" and lists pcm or tps issue. I do know my 1-2 is a little slow to where rpms climb and engine starts to run out of oomph for a couple seconds before shifting which I remedied this by adjusting TV cable. 2-3-4 happens pretty quick. I'll check more tomorrow. I know it's Not necessary "immediately" . Truck likes to pull like a SOB once 4th and lockup are in. 1-4 no lockup it doesn't pull nearly as strong

I'm not sure either. It's one of those things dodge doesn't like to tell us and star doesn't know most of the time if you make a tech case. I'd assume throttle, engine speed, veh speed, actual gear, trans and engine coolant temps. Possibly battery voltage too. It's almost to the point I'd like to do a 5 or 6 speed swap if I could even find manual trucks in the yard much less a diesel or v10 with a manual

Exactly. What throws me is that hill it won't do it. It'll stay in 4th and lockup doing 60 right up that hill with no problems but moderate accel from 50-60 on a flat surface unloaded it isn't happy

I had considered the normal operation kick out based on throttle but it shouldnt unlock and relock within a second right after engaging cruise. It will also under certain throttle and only at certain times, usually when I'm not thinking about it trying to accelerate it'll lock and unlock multiple times each 1 second or so intervals making it hard to actually accelerate. Other times it'll smoothly accelerate with TC staying engaged. Most of the time it's in a nearby place I pass through daily where the speed drops to 45, I stay doing 50 about 2 miles then speed back up to 60. It won't do it climbing a heavy grade hill a few miles later that demands more throttle. It stays locked in. It gets annoying trying to accelerate with traffic in this situation and the Rpms are all over the place about 300 rpm jumps. I can watch 3-4 solenoid and it stays in

I just did the W-T wiring and alternator diodes. Used some good marine grade wiring and hydraulic crimp press. The mod writeup stated the ground mount bolt is a M5 but it's actually a M6. Didn't do the pcm protection but it's something to look into. Not sure if it would cause the issue with TC operation

I briefly glanced over some other inputs but didn't spend alot of time on them. I'm know it can zoom but while driving the truck didn't want to toy with it too much