jasvan10

Thanks for all the input everyone , like I said drop the tank and pulled the fuel module I hooked a air hose to the suction side of the module and plugged the end of the pick up line and submerged into a 5 gall on of water and pushed about 5lb of air through the line and found 2 air leaks one outside the module at the aluminum suction fitting supplied by airdog where one piece screws into the other and 1 leak at the plastic corrugated tube where the hose clamp connects the the aluminum fitting I guess the hose clamp cut the tube ,anyway I put all back together primed the system and it fired up now I will let it set over night to see if it looses its prime ,it used to start up with 1 crank of the starter but when it got to half tank it got worse we will see I will chime back latter in the week see how far I can go

I just brought home a alluminum tube the same diameter 1/2 ID it fit snugly into the corrugated flex tube that AD supplied, I used new fuel injection type hose clamps that work great I ditched the nylon tube I am satisfied that I have a very good seal now . The engine return line has a short rubber hose with a quick connect I also changed the hose clamp on that . Dose the return line that come from the AD and the engine just dump back into the tank? Reason I ask the 2 internal flex lines are cut off the TEE and the TEE was completely removed and the 2 lines just hang there. My next Item is to remove the quick connect to the AD on the suction side and on the return I just don't trust them ,I am running out of things to change . Can hooking up the fuel canister cause these hard starts now?:banghead:

OK ,I have 1 suction line ,coming from the AD, 1 return line coming from the AD there is a smaller line hooked up that is connected to the the other connection next to the AD return line ,is that line needed I have to follow it I think it goes to the back of motor will have to follow it tomorrow after work, instead of the nylon tube connected to the corrugated tube I might switch the nylon for a metal tube - - - Updated - - - I wonder if when I connected the fuel canister back up if that has something to do with the hard starting also ? I purchased the fittings for the top of the canister and spliced in between the AD and injection pump ,I shouldn't get any ill affects from doing that should I?

OK, I dropped the tank again ,I was at work getting ready to leave the fuel tank was just under 1/2 and it would not start , after 20 minutes It started when I got home I pulled the module out and there are 2 other plastic hoses that were cut off the TEE and the TEE was removed ,these lines are about 7" inches long I think they are the return lines .I want to replace the 2 piece pickup tube with a diesel fuel rated hose (1 piece ) .Does anyone have any suggestions? maybe I can splice the old one together with a brass barbed fitting? I am so fed up with this fuel system .On the top of the module I pulled 3 lines off ,1 supply what are the other 2:banghead:

yes,Drip you know it ,and yes I have to laugh also for ignorance does not pay ,but lessons are learned it just gets old ,I am going to look at that support brace .

I agree with that I am contemplating on cutting a access door I am tired of dropping the tank on my back crap falling into my face and eyes ,thanks I will do that ,I will add a flange and use some sort of gasket tape and screw it into place .

Dripley,I used the recomended kit from AD,I explained to AD that i had a intank fuel pump and the gave me the part number to use I believe I have the right kit I talked to a Mechanic he said to pull the module out and check the clamps and pick up tube for cracks or holes ,his logic is when the tank is full everything is submerged into diesel fuel, as you burn fuel the tank empties and exposes connection points or cracks / holes ,when these holes /cracks are exposed you are sucking air along with fuel which will give you a longer crank he also said where I use a hose clamp I should use some non harding locktite to seal the connection good. SO that sounds like thats what is happening ,now I must drop my tank again and remove the module for the 3rd time to see if that is it ,I checked out all other avenues but that one ,I THINK

I just purchased the fittings for using the fuel canister ,can't wait to get these before winter . after I installed the air dog I have been noticing when I fill my truck up it fires up real fast and the fuel pressure gauge reads around 17 to 18 psi almost instant as the fuel level drops the truck takes a 1/2 second longer or so to crank and the fuel pressure gauge slowly rises to 16 to 18 psi and the less fuel in the tank the longer it takes to crank the slower the fuel pressure rises, and around 3/8 of a tank it gets even worse I can't drive it unless it has at least 3/8 to 1/2 tank of fuel . whats going on ?

I just installed a airdog ll about 3 months ago along with a new VP44 I bypassed the original fuel filter canister ,Now I would like to utilize the canister with the water in fuel sensor and the fuel heater mostly because winter is coming upon us soon here in Michigan ,Right now I have a 1/2 line to the VP44 I would like to install a reducer from 1/2 inch to 3/8 and install right to the top of canister and come out of the outlet with 3/8 down to the VP44 is this possible and if so where can I get these fittings ?

For the last 3 days now I have been parking my truck with the nose pointing down in the driveway and at work I park in a parking lot that has a slight slope so when I park the nose is pointing down also ,I have noticed that it starts right up without any extended cranking at all is this still a air leak or is it something else?

I will try that, parking the truck with the front down hill , OK if it starts to crank over consistently ,is this still a air leak between the VP and air dog ll or is it inside the VP which is new? or where?

thanks for the replays I will have to check the return line and connections of the original fittings everything else is new ,I know now after installing the AIR DOG ll I cannot run it passed 1/4 tank or I will loose fuel pressure with the fuel sloshing around.I been working long hour and weekends I will have to look at it when the crazy- ness stops ,I will try parking it with the nose pointing down and see if that helps any --- Update to the previous post... Have another question after the airdog ll was installed I discontinued the original fuel filter and housing ,does anyone know what the factory fuel filter micron rating is and the factory airdog ll , I am wondering if I went back to the factory filter micron rated into my airdog ll , If it was 10 micron filter, it increase fuel flow and pressure then the 2 micron rated filter would. if I am running a 2 micron filter it would clog faster then the 10 micron filter maybe this is why I am having harder starts ,I am just thinking out loud does this make any sense just asking , since I just install approx 2months ago the original fuel pump had a screen on it before it was filtered now it don't so the new pickup tube sucks up all debri in the tank and it goes right to the air dog ll filter ,to me it would clog faster ? any thoughts

I have not seen any fuel leaks but I will look closer ,I have a AIR DOG ll DF 100 ,I have the longer cranks after it sets over night and when it sets all day at work ,I was looking at my fuel gauge when I start it and noticed that it take about anywheres around 5 to 10 seconds to reach 15 to 17 psi it lingers down around 5 to 8 then comes up to 15 to 17 . these longer cranks started last week or so but not much to complian, but yesterday after work is when It took longer then the 1/2 second to 1 second crank or so I know there is something wronge when I installewd the new VP it fired up like I had a new truck up untill now.

Hey Gentlemen, I am back I just installed a new VP and everything was back to normal for a couple of weeks ,I started to notice the extened cranks, dont get me wronge this new vp flips over 10 times better than the old one but not like it did when first installed ,it takes about 1 complete or 2 complete starter turnovers or around 1 full second to fire up ,when it used to flip over right away ,any thoughts or ideas ,would it be because the fuel is not heated anymore ?

I bought my VP from DIESEL INJECTOR REBUILD CENTER ,in Bay CITY MICHIGAN ,THEY HAVE A 815 TEST BENCH and claim they were the first to have one in the USA

thanks ,I tow a 22 foot boat ,but I will try to stay with the 3" ALL THE WAY BACK ,THE MUFF SHOP ONLY HAS STEEL PIPE ,no ss I guess that will last a while ,ok I am leaving the muffler off my younger boys at the house thinks it sounds cool ,i guess i do to ,just wondering about back pressure and loss of hp .

Now that I have the VP installed yesterday I noticed that I have a little longer crank time then when I first installed it ,its been in the low 80s in Michigan ,I first noticed it in the morning when I went to start it, after the first start if I shut it down for 20 or 30 minutes it flips over fast could something be bleeding back ,I will continue to monitor this ,99% it flips over very fast .

this is good to here I had just cut my muffler off since it was rotting off the repair job a muffler shop did and it is right now just passed the cab where its been cut off ,it sound good can here the tubo wisitle its the stock 3 inch I was wondering also if I stayed with the 3" straight back with no muffler if it would cause any issuse do these trucks need some back pressure or is it better for it to be straight through ? also moparman are the egt higher ,the same or better with the 3''

I really don't believe it was starving for fuel since I had nearly a full tank like at least 30 gallons in the tank,I do think it was the VP and I do believe that the shop that Installed the the AD over pressurized the the VP and caused the premature damage to the VP ,if the VP was going bad they just made it fail faster and the way they broke my sending unit and put it back just urks me I would not trust these guys again ,they may be good at what they do but they know when a PATSY walks in and trys to pull a scam . I am glad it fixed and I again have to thank you guys for the help and encouragement to tackle it I wrenched before on all my other trucks but nothing on a diesel .

[TABLE=class: page, width: 100%, align: center][TR][TD][TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center][TR][TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #F5F5FF]I would like to thank all that help me diagnose my hard starting ,I finally bought a fuel pressure gage Isspro ev2 electric and installed it.Last week I dropped the tank to see if the nuckleheads that did the install of the Airdog ll and found that they broke my sending unit and put it back in the tank ,and the holes that were supposed to be 1/2 or larger were only 1/4 inch if that so I used regular hose clamps instead of what air dog supplied fixed the broken sending unit bracket and put it back together ,I found out buy Cummins Dealer that whoever installed the Airdog did not adjust the fuel pressure to Cummins specs the had 25psi which could of damaged the VP44.I ended up getting a new VP44 from Diesel Fuel Injector Rebuild INC. in BAY CITY MICHIGAN ,THESE GUYS ARE VERY HELPFUL ,any way I installed it along with a cam sensor that was very accessible and it seems to be running like before ,THANKYOU ALL AGAIN:[/TD][/TR][/TABLE][/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

looks like it has a threaded end I guess I will unscrew it and screw the new one in, last time I did preventative maintenace I ended up having to change out my VP ,just recieved my new VP today and they also sent me a new check valve I didnt expect that I see others advertise that its not included ,hope mike puts there name on this website for others .

I guess I should replace it for the simplicity to do so now ,It looks like 1 hold screw , before I take this thing out is there something I should know ,the cam does not have to be in a certian position or anything else does it just pull out or screw out anyone have any insite

Forgot to mention before ,I noticed a small plug connection under the pump and found out its a cam sensor ,my thing is this has been in there for 152000 miles do these ever go bad ? I am leaning towards replacing it now because of the simplicity of doing now before the pump goes in or do these things hardly go bad

just pulled the pump off ,and I called Gary at diesel fuel injection rebuild center and asked him again whats new ,he said they recieve the pump housings from Bosch that have been refurbuished by Bosch and when the get them they install : new advance piston ,new rollers , new shoes , new diaphram/dampner, and new gaskets and eigther it comes from Bosch with a new PSG or they install a new PSG for 996.00 . Hex thanks I already Veiw all the Vids on youtube and talked to all of yous on this site and was talked into doing it myself ,I will let you all know how it goes when I get the pump in.

Diesel fuel injection rebuild center inc. http://dfisam.com/sam-p100-st.htm this is there website I still have to call them ,I am mid way through disassemble right now I have the 1-2- and 4 injection lines off and I am having trouble finding the bracket under pump locating the bolts and remove them ? everything is off thats to be off except the pump and hold down bracket.