hd99fxr3

On the 2006 and up t he ask is programmed for an EB. So automatic trans trucks are programmed to lock the TC via the on off switch. So there are two wires going into the ecm. One for throttle signal and one to control TC lockup. Just put pacbrake on my truck in December.

Will add pics to steps shortly. This covers the 47 and 48 RE transmissions but there is evidence that it is used on other years / types of Chrysler products. Procedure should be similar for the other automatics used in the 2500 3500 line of trucks. OK, changed out the Neutral Safety Switch, AKA transmission range sensor last night. Easy job, but messy as all get out. You'll need a drain pan, 1/4 drive ratchet, 6" extension ( 4" would probably work ), small TORX bits ( forgot to check the size ), 1qt or more of ATF+4 ( depending on how fast you are ). Wouldn't be a bad idea to do this in conjunction with a fluid and filter change of the transmission. 1) Set parking brake 2) Block wheels from rolling back on you in case parking brake don't work 3) With engine not running shift to Neutral 4) Slide under the truck about right where the front of the oil pan is for the transmission, on the drivers side. When looking at the side of the transmission casing, you will see where the shifter cable connects to the linkage on the transmission. Right behind it is the Safety switch. It will have wires and a connector on it and will be black plastic with two Torx head screws holding it to the casing. 5) Pull out the Red locking coller on the connector, unplug the wires from the switch. Check this connector for fluid build up inside it. If there is any use electrical contact cleaner in the spray can to clean it out. Once clean put some Dielectric grease on the connector covering the female section of the plug. 6) Remove the two Torx bolts, and be ready for a face full of oil. 7) At this point as soon as you put some pressure on the switch to pull it out, you need to have the drain pan in place to catch the fluid stream that is going to gush out the side of the case. And have the new switch in hand to stick back in place of the old one. Depending on how quick you are will depend on how much fluid you will lose. 8) Insert and tighten the two Torx screws holding the switch in place. 9) Connect the plug to the switch. 10) Push Red locking coller on plug back in. 11) Check transmission dip stick to ensure there is at least some fluid showing on the stick. If not, add some till it just starts to show on the stick. 12) Place gear selecter back in park, and go through the start procedure to start the truck. 13) While placing your foot on the brake pedal, put the gear selector through it's complete range of movement, allowing a moment between positions for the fluid to flow throught the valve body. Once you have done this, ending with the selector in the park position. Double check to be sure the parking brake is still applied, and shift the gear selector into neutral. 14) Now check the transmission fluid on the dipstick, with engine running. Add ATF+4 until the stick reads full, following the directions on the stick. 15) Place the gear selector back into the park position. 16) Release the parking brake, and back the truck up so you can clean up the mess under it, and go for a test drive. 17) Once the test drive is over, set the parking brake and repeat the directions starting with step 14, until the transmission fluid level is at a satisfactory level on the dipstick. It takes longer to prepare and clean up, than it does to do the change out and test drive. You will notice right away that the movment of the gear selector is firmer, than it was before the change out. The reason for this is that the switch you just put in is also the tensioning device ( detent ) for the gear selectors position on the pawl inside the transmission. So when the spring is weak in the switch it creats a situation in which the ECM does not know what gear the transmission is in, there by causing the no start situation I was experiancing.

Thank you

I believe they said '07

I got T-boned right on the rear axel on Xmas eve. The body shop and insurance finally decided that the rear axle housing is tweaked. So in goes one with 58k from a junkyard. When they picked up the used diff and set it next to what came out the housings are different. Everything measures the same just case differences. So can anybody tell m what the difference is? First pictures will be what came on the truck, the last ones will be of the replacement. Look close at the reinforcement ribs.

Well I broke down and took it to a garage with a lift. I paid them to be aggravated. LOL

Just wanted to report that on the previous oil changed I used NAPA's 15w-40. Went 5000 miles and had the oil analyzed. The NAPA oil did better than the premium blue I had been using. They told me their oil was made by Valvoline, so I was a bit surprised that it tested better than premium blue.

I'll chime in here with my '06. drive 75 miles one way to work running 72-85mph lie-o-meter says 28+to 27.4. Actual measured is 19-21 depending on where I fueled. If I keep the speed below 70, I gets up to 35+ on the lie-o-meter. Never had the chance to measure that, for actual milage.

Dork u welcome to come down and try it on for size!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Been there done that Saturday trying to get at this puppy. Got the abrasions to prove it. LOL

I was under the truck and on top of it wrench will not work ratchet and socket our special wrench are only options do to bracing, brackets, engine block and transmission lines. I have my doubts that a ratchet and socket will work. Unless you can come from the top, which I tried.

Almost directly under the fuel filter housing. On top of that you can't see the lug from any direction, including straight down.

Ok replaced 3 of the 4 battery cables on the truck. The 4th cable is the positive cable on the drivers side. Goes directly to the starter and TIPM. How in the world do you get to the starter to remove the cable? The cable mounts on the top side of the starter almost directly under the fuel filter housing. You can't get to it from the front side of the front axle and you can't get to it from behind the axle. Heck you can't even see the lug, you have to feel it. Thanks G

After taking a day off work to look at the truck and run the trouble shooting tree for the 2509 code myself. It takes about two minutes to discover the Negative ground cable clamp on the drivers side has a big crack in it. It then becomes painfully obvious that the tech at the dealership did not run any diagnostics that involved removing the battery clamps to run a load and voltage test. So off to what can only be described as a stealer ship to talk to the service manger. He seemed perplexed after I gave him the troubleshooting tree for this code, and then took him out to the truck and asked him to simulate running the tree. After he saw that the one clamp was cracked and that the other clamps had not been touched he told me that he would have to talk to the tech and the service writer, and get back to me. On a side note I had been reassured on at least 6 occasions that the tree had been run to its completion (7 steps) and that the TSB covering this code was not relevant. The TSB covers my truck with this problem. Basically it says after running the tree without finding any bad wiring or connections. to re-flash the PCM. If this doesn't fix the problem a new PCM has to be installed. I want to thank Mike for taking the time to add all the information to this site and allowing us to gain from it. Any one know of a reasonable source for Battery cables? They are over $400 at a dealer.